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I use my Hot Rod in a keg. No issues there in moving to another vessel. The element is wired to the housing so you cannot separate and move element, so that would suggest using the pod if you needed that.

The Hot Rod in my opinion is an outstanding product. If I were getting my feet wet, that is where I would start. I bought one after a few years of using modified pots and using weldless element fittings. Now I wish I didn't have these holes in pots that could have other uses.

I do not have an answer, however this thread may have the info you are looking for. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f257/how-add-permanent-volume-markings-kettle-illustrated-463099/ Cheers.

Welcome from SW Michigan as well.

Three batches in with my HotRod & 5500w element. Would recommend to anyone. Fantastic.

From main panel to a sub panel (with derived branch circuits) in a detached structure is a "Feed" circuit and requires separate grounding. From main panel to a disconnect in a detached structure is a "Branch" circuit.

Those questions are outside my pay grade. If I am held to X, I must do X.

Of course all service industry/trades costs are better than retail, no secret there. I am not sure how relevant that is to the topic. To assume if you can go to store X and pay Y does not mean if you hire someone to do the same for you they are going to charge you the same or less.

Some things to consider... There will always be a markup on materials to cover costs involved in purchasing, transporting, and storage of materials. Do not expect to be charged Home Depot prices for materials. Most electricians have a ball park dollar value based on square footage to...

:off: Your cement pond is not frozen over? Picture must have been over the Summer months.

Right handed, however I can only shoot a firearm and billiards left handed. Me shooting (pool or weapon) right handed is like trying to do so with my feet instead. It is a weird mechanical thing for me vs eye dominance. I didn't even know I shot billiards left handed until my father pointed it...

Apparently large enough to boil 6.5 gallons of wort according to one amazon.com review. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JQ3KQ4/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=46816888985&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16040633094217955931&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_9l1tloml3c_b

You wouldn't really need a control box for a 1500w element to assist the stove top.

You may already have 2 GFCI protected circuits in your kitchen. If you insulated your pot while mashing, you wouldn't need a controller unless you really wanted temperature control. That would be your lowest cost option.

Most kitchens have two separate 20 amp circuits. That was my thought, not both off of the same circuit.

Are you opposed to using two 120v heat sticks? @wilserbrewer uses two of them with no controller. Seems to suit him just fine.

I use 1/4 barrel sanke kegs, which are the same height as 1/2 barrel sanke kegs. I have no problems taking them apart when I need too. I have a small flat tip screw driver that is it. Once you do it a few times you will wonder what the fuss is about. My 1/4 bl sanke kegs were bought brand new...

Assuming there is no other loads on the circuit as well, that may be fine. However I wasn't willing to assume (refrigerator, sprinkler system, kids leave the lights on all day,ect). Additionally, if it is going to be unattended for long periods of time, err to the side of caution. A dedicated...

Sounds like you are headed in the right direction. Confirm the bare conductor is on the ground buss bar (move it if it on the neutral buss bar) and you will have a HHG circuit. That will match your intentions in your OP.

First of all....YES!!! Let's find out what you have first. If it was installed by an electrician and is 240v, that is a something that would not have passed inspection, as that is a serious error. I am suspect of the entire circuit to be honest. Have a licenced electrician look at it before...