Sanke HLT to Electric

[Jay1]

I currently have a propane powered Sanke HLT that I would like to convert to electric. The main reason I want to do this is so I can set it on a controller that would have my HLT at strike temp by the time I get home. Is this realistic?

Can somebody point me in the direction of a simple build that would make this happen for me? I'm not interested in a big complex build I just want to come home to a perfect strike temp.

I have 120v in my garage, would a 120 element be enough?

Thanks,
Jay

 

[trimixdiver1]

I currently have a propane powered Sanke HLT that I would like to convert to electric. The main reason I want to do this is so I can set it on a controller that would have my HLT at strike temp by the time I get home. Is this realistic?



Can somebody point me in the direction of a simple build that would make this happen for me? I'm not interested in a big complex build I just want to come home to a perfect strike temp.



I have 120v in my garage, would a 120 element be enough?



Thanks,

Jay

It's realistic but not too safe, I would want to be there when firing the element. 120 would work but take a long time.

 

[Jay1]

That's a bummer. What are the dangers involved in heating it up. From my understanding it works just like a hot water tank.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

I know you looking for 120 but if you could figure out 220 I heated 13.75 gals of warm tap water to 160 in maybe 10 min. 5500W Just enough time to grab a beer and relax for 5 min.Not much reason for preheating

 

[Fatman_Brew]

Is your 120V on a 20 or 15 amp circuit? I can be safe or dangerous, depending on what you are willing to invest in. How much strike water? Is the vessel insulated (must be heavily insulated for your application)? Is the vessel NOT a pressure vessel (mechanically sealed lid)?
Safe is using amperage draws that are 80% of the circuit load. Safe is using safeguards for failures for thermal protection for water low levels (leaks). Safe is using GFCI. You can use 120v heating systems if appropriately sized to your circuit.

*NEC code requires circuits to handle 125% of continuous load, thus the often cited 80% rule.

 

[Bobby_M]

Even on 120v (1500w), it would only take 1.5 hours at 100% output to get 10 gallons to rise 100F. At that point, a PID would only cycle on probably 5% of the time to hold the temp. In other words, it wouldn't run for more than 3 hours and doesn't need to be designed at 80% of the breaker's capacity. If something were to happen that would make the element run for hours, the breaker would trip.

Safe? A good water tight element install or heat stick. Good ground to the kettle. GFCI breaker or receptacle.

 

[Fatman_Brew]

Even on 120v (1500w), it would only take 1.5 hours at 100% output to get 10 gallons to rise 100F. At that point, a PID would only cycle on probably 5% of the time to hold the temp. In other words, it wouldn't run for more than 3 hours and doesn't need to be designed at 80% of the breaker's capacity. If something were to happen that would make the element run for hours, the breaker would trip.

Safe? A good water tight element install or heat stick. Good ground to the kettle. GFCI breaker or receptacle.

Assuming there is no other loads on the circuit as well, that may be fine. However I wasn't willing to assume (refrigerator, sprinkler system, kids leave the lights on all day,ect). Additionally, if it is going to be unattended for long periods of time, err to the side of caution. A dedicated garage 20amp circuit can fit the bill, just have to plan for all the unknowns.