Recent content by Sweep

It's been about 19 days since I pitched and I'm getting a reading of 1.028. I was shooting for 1.018...but it hasn't gone any lower in the last five days. I'd say I'm a somewhat intermediate to advanced noob at brewing after about 20 or so batches, so don't discount the yeast for 1.080 brews...

Yeast was added to Reinheitsgebot in 1906. http://germanbeerinstitute.com/beginners.html "By 1906, it became the official law in all of the realm of the German Kaiser, with the addition of yeast as a basic ingredient and malted wheat as an allowable component in top-fermented beers, such...

To clarify - no teflon tape on flared connections. The manual for my Taprite T752HP (which does not have flared connections) says "Open outlet parts must have outlet fittings installed with either teflon tape or a thread sealant that is compatible with CO2 or Nitrogen gas."

There is a "DryTap Airlock" they make for the Better Bottles. It has a ceramic ball inside that eliminates suck back. The only problem is that it is EXPENSIVE. Going for $22 on Amazon now.

Anyone ever thought of applying window security film to a glass carboy? You'll still have to carry the carboy around by the bottom, but at least if it cracks, it wouldn't shatter. Not sure how hard this would be on a round vessel as opposed to a flat window the film is intended for.

Weird, this should be easier! If those are standard beer hex nuts on the coil, they should be 7/8". If that's the case, could something like this work? Total guess... Install it backwards, run a coupler where the faucet normally connects and screw the coil's hex nuts onto that...

Every LHBS I've been to has had a small library of recipes for you to try out. Some have kits, some do not. You don't need a kit if you have a LHBS employee and a recipe at your side when you're first starting out. In the end, the minimal price difference is worth it to have some experts down...

Data Breach Communication 101: http://usa.visa.com/download/merchants/cisp_responding_to_a_data_breach.pdf The only reason to wait this long is if the law enforcement felt that disclosing the breach would hinder their investigation.

I'm an aspiring member of team stainless steel. Still saving for that conical fermenter. Makes this whole discussion moot! :rockin:

From the reading I've done, this method seems to make the most sense to me: 1. Ferment in the primary until you reach your target FG. 2. Cold crash 24-72hrs to flocculate as much yeast as possible. 3. Add hops and bring everything back to cellar temp. Wait 5-7 days. 4. Cold crash...

I have had two 6.5-gal glass carboys and one 5-gal glass carboy for the 7 years I've been brewing. I've moved them around using just the carboy handle - empty or full without issues. I brew upstairs, carry the carboys downstairs for fermenting, and bring them back upstairs for the keg transfer...

HUB Secession Cascadian Dark Ale. I have to say....I am pro secession.

I'd go with either a combination of Cascade/Simcoe or a double dry hop with those two. Cascade will give the citrus and Simcoe will give the pine - both should complement the flavor of the Two Hearted Ale, and both are from the awesome state of Washington ;-) BTW, this is a good read on dry...

I'm using 1968 for a Stone Sublimely Self-Righteous Ale Clone. It's my first time using this yeast - I've read that this is the closest approximation to Stone's house strain. OG was 1.080 and I only realized after pitching that the Wyeast package says the yeast is good for beers up to...

After two days in the primary, my brew has blown off about 1/2 liter of krausen foam... Should I agitate the carboy to wet some of the foam inside and try to bring the volume back down a bit? At what point will the foam blow off begin affecting the final flavor of my beer? Thanks!