Upside Down Keggles?

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Ah very cool. I'm going to get a frame welded at this point I believe.

Nice. Yeah figuring I'll use wood to build some type of base for each of them... or build a table so that there's a hole in the bottom large enough for the piping to escape.


I will be using 4 rigid casters with the wheels removed, flip them over, reattaching them to the bottom skirt of the keg through drilled holes and using the "top" of the casters as legs. That way there is plenty of room for the drain fittings and I can move the MLT around as I need to.
 
I made lids from the top cutouts. The lid is useful on my HLT but kinda pointless on the boil kettle.

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Would probably have done something similar even if I had inverted my kegs (wish I did)
 
Found out one of my kegs would fit under a 2x4 fine, so I got two ones like it today. Selling the other 2 that are already bottom cut. Live in Maryland.

$35/each covers how much I paid for them. PM me if interested.

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Found out one of my kegs would fit under a 2x4 fine, so I got two ones like it today. Selling the other 2 that are already bottom cut. Live in Maryland.

$35/each covers how much I paid for them. PM me if interested.
Any ideas on how I could turn these into fermenters?
 
Looks great! Are you going bcs or pid??
Thanks!

BCS. I picked up a BCS-462. Planning to run fermentation out of this panel as well. Not sure there will be enough room on the bottom of the box for all the receptacles and probes so may put the probes on the side.
 
Made some progress today, got the two new kegs opened and all my holes drilled. Didn't put as large of a hole in the tops this time to try to fit more lids... Instead they're a bit too small now so lots of flap grinding...

Put the first hole into my control panel and it took forever with a drill press... Not sure this bimetal hole saw is a great fit... I have a 7/8 step bit so will probably try that next...

Off to Salem, OR for the week so will get back to it next weekend. Next up I'll clean the kegs well, silver solder the element adapters, plumb things up, and hopefully get all the holes drilled into the panel... Inbetween "playing" with the kids.

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I think it looks great! That will be the last thing I do. I'm still hopeful that a friend can take care of the welding for me.
 
I think it looks great! That will be the last thing I do. I'm still hopeful that a friend can take care of the welding for me.
Nice, I was hoping for the same but it didn't work out. Using weldless bulkheads and the stainless solder for the TC elements.
 
Probably a silly question, but are you all using a standard 15 inch false bottom in your bottom drain mash tuns? I'm looking at Jaybird/NorCal solutions, and the stands he sells for FBs are really cool, but I don't think they would work (the top of the keg that would be the bottom of the tun doesn't appear to be flat, they all seem to have a indentations). What are you all using? I'm probably overthinking this.
 
Probably a silly question, but are you all using a standard 15 inch false bottom in your bottom drain mash tuns? I'm looking at Jaybird/NorCal solutions, and the stands he sells for FBs are really cool, but I don't think they would work (the top of the keg that would be the bottom of the tun doesn't appear to be flat, they all seem to have a indentations). What are you all using? I'm probably overthinking this.
I'm using the one Bobby sells for upside down kegs. The dry fitting fits perfectly.
 
Probably a silly question, but are you all using a standard 15 inch false bottom in your bottom drain mash tuns? I'm looking at Jaybird/NorCal solutions, and the stands he sells for FBs are really cool, but I don't think they would work (the top of the keg that would be the bottom of the tun doesn't appear to be flat, they all seem to have a indentations). What are you all using? I'm probably overthinking this.


I am using the Reverse hinge with added handle and the level 3 stand from NorCal. Seems to be well built and also has nice dry fit. If I ever finish this build I'll post back on its use in action!
 
Thank you both. In looking at the top of some kegs (bottom of the tun), some appear to have indentations (star shapes?), and I didn't know if that would allow grain to circulate.

JCC, that is the exact set up I was looking to use. I have bought from Jay before, incredible workmanship (nice guy too).
 
JCC, that is the exact set up I was looking to use. I have bought from Jay before, incredible workmanship (nice guy too).


Yes they are good peeps there at NorCal. Had a small hiccup with shipping and they made right in my eyes. They offered a couple free yeast packs, and that will fix just about any hiccup!
 
Thank you both. In looking at the top of some kegs (bottom of the tun), some appear to have indentations (star shapes?), and I didn't know if that would allow grain to circulate.


As far as the 'star shaped' indentations, 2 of my kegs have it and the other doesn't. My plan was to use the one without the indent as my mash tun. My decision had nothing to do with the star shape indentations, btw. It was mainly bc I am OCD and I had to have balance, ie the two kegs that were alike(have the star indent and are identical) on the outside and the slightly different keg(one without the star indent) in the middle. I personally don't think it would be an issue bc it will be below the false bottom.


To add more to this, when cleaning the kegs that have the indentations majority of the water drains out of the star shape.
 
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Sorry for the not so great pic but here is one of each. With on right, without on left.

I think you're saying that the star wouldn't cause issues with the level 3 stand, that the stand will rest squarely on the bottom? What makes it drain efficiently might cause for grain to slip through. I would be disappointed if I went that way and it didn't work.

Thanks for the pics!
 
I have a level 3 stand and the star pattern in my upside-down keggle, it does allow some material to get through. It does filter pretty good though. I've thought about grinding some down to fit better or having Jay do it on another one.
 
Holes done in the control panel. I found this bit worked really well, another bimetal one was a pita.

Also, did initial leak tests and found a small leak on the solder joint around the element. Quick fix and it passed the second test. Found a small leak in the compression joint around the HERMs coil, so I'll be taking everything apart and wrenching on that again. :(

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HERMS coil was a PITA for me too, first time working with compression fittings and it was a little frustrating. Are those just 1/2" ID hoses? They look beefy
 
You are moving along nicely! I have decided to go with a complete ebrew 50amp panel. Just unsure if I'm going 460 vs. 462?!? I'll have more pics of my progress soon.

I've been experimenting with different polishing techniques while I wait on funds to continue moving forward.
 
You are moving along nicely! I have decided to go with a complete ebrew 50amp panel. Just unsure if I'm going 460 vs. 462?!? I'll have more pics of my progress soon.

I've been experimenting with different polishing techniques while I wait on funds to continue moving forward.

Cool! Yeah I figured I was already so far in at this point that id rather have the extra inputs/outputs then not... At this point what's an extra $100...
 
So one observation I've made with doing these leak tests is that I almost always have leaks when I disconnect the hoses after the pumping from one vessel to another is complete. Is this typical? Anything in particular I can do to keep the mess to a minimum?
 
So one observation I've made with doing these leak tests is that I almost always have leaks when I disconnect the hoses after the pumping from one vessel to another is complete. Is this typical? Anything in particular I can do to keep the mess to a minimum?
Are you talking about stuff draining out of the hoses? I got one of these I'll be using once I'm operational.
Close valve on keggle. pinch hose, disconnect and move hose to next destination.
(note:will be using female on hoses. male was handiest for mock-up)

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So one observation I've made with doing these leak tests is that I almost always have leaks when I disconnect the hoses after the pumping from one vessel to another is complete. Is this typical? Anything in particular I can do to keep the mess to a minimum?

Make sure to close the valve on the other end when you're moving hoses, it holds a small vacuum and prevents liquid from flowing out freely. I also keep a quart sized pitcher with a handle on my brew table for the actual disconnect to catch the few ounces that will leak. Anything with a handle really, just hold it under neath when you open the camlock.
 
Are you talking about stuff draining out of the hoses? I got one of these I'll be using once I'm operational.
Close valve on keggle. pinch hose, disconnect and move hose to next destination.
(note:will be using female on hoses. male was handiest for mock-up)

Interesting. What is that?
 
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