Upside Down Keggles?

CornyKegs 728
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carpenike said:
Thanks! Doesn't look like that one is locking. If I put this on the bottom of my control panel what's the likelihood that it falls out?
Click to expand...

It is locking, I used one on my panel!

Marinco tends to be much cheaper than hubbell
 
Any progress? I've been traveling a lot and busy when home. Have not had a chance to plan the build and order parts. I'd rather be at home working on this, but someone has to make some money to support this habit!!


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
jcc4507fly said:
Any progress? I've been traveling a lot and busy when home. Have not had a chance to plan the build and order parts. I'd rather be at home working on this, but someone has to make some money to support this habit!!


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
Click to expand...

Hi there. Still working on stuff. Cleaned out the room last week and pulled off the walls. Today I reran electric to ceiling lights and put 8 outlets on the far wall. Put the ceilings and walls back up.

Also wired the GFCI spa panel and put a dryer outlet below.

Waiting on parts to arrive from BrewHardware, should have everything but the control panel in it.

Also found a welder nearby and he may end up building a cart for me, piecing together plans now.

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Awesome! I found my 3rd keg. Ordered a good portion of my hardware. Some from Still Dragon, Brewers hardware, a local fitting shop that sells stainless fittings, false bottom and stand from Nor Cal brewing.
 
Did you get one of their inner supports for the false bottom or do you think it will work without it (since the keg is inverted and the bottom drain makes a smooth angled funnel below)

I was thinking of having them weld the handle and hinge on opposite sides...then the hinge would help support grain weight.
 
If you order with the reverse hinge the hinge is on top so it is out of the way of the center support. All they do is flip the normal false bottom over. So it is required to be used with a center support. It would be nice if they actually flipped the hinge over, then welded it to the top side.

I opted for the reverse hinged, no hole. I also added the handle. I was unsure which support I wanted so I gave them a call. I spoke with Jay, very helpful. I ultimately decided to go with the Level 3 filter/support. That way after mashing I can use it in the BK. Jay's recommendation was just prior to completing the boil, recirculate from bottom drain back to the boil kettle. This will remove most hop particle from below the the false bottom. Then the false bottom and center support will filter out about 95% of what ever is remaining and leave it in the kettle as you drain into your fermenter. That way I don't need to whirlpool.
 
"dry fitting" using wood and cinder blocks. Trying to get a rough idea on heights, etc.

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Planning on a cart similar to JohnW's (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f253/single-tier-3-pump-bcs-462-automated-rig-204705/) and the Coloradoan one (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f253/coloradoan-single-tier-build-345773/). Only I'll just be using 2 pumps to start with and no built in plumbing... having the cart put together in stainless so will likely have the mounts for a third pump put in place just in case and only use two to start with.

I'll be using JohnW's cart dimensions for the most part:

Brutus-10-JW-V6.jpg


But I believe I'll have the front top cross beam lower than the rear one and some type of either angled reduction on the arms coming from the back to meet the front bar or just a straight L. This will allow for the bottom drain to be brought to the front without hitting the front cross beam. IE: here's what I'm running into with the wood setup:

WP_20141118_14_20_54_Pro.jpg
 
Also, here's the brew bench design I'm thinking of. Pumps on the bottom bench, keggles up top. I dropped the front cross beam 5" down so that the bottom drains can come out the front.

Any thoughts?

brewbench.jpg
 
And here's an assembled bottom drain with the quick release for the tubing attached. Right now the temperature probe will be placed at the end here, but I may end up moving that down to the pump area to keep wiring cleaner... This would require another pump I think.

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carpenike said:
Also, here's the brew bench design I'm thinking of. Pumps on the bottom bench, keggles up top. I dropped the front cross beam 5" down so that the bottom drains can come out the front.

Any thoughts?

brewbench.jpg
Click to expand...


If you bump the keggle, it could fall at an angle between your supports. I would add guides that keep the base of the keggle from shifting enough for that to happen or keep part of the original top rail on each side with a slot for the drain valve to fit through. Then you could put some pieces of plate to create a larger surface for the keggles to sit on.
 
BrokenHorn said:
If you bump the keggle, it could fall at an angle between your supports. I would add guides that keep the base of the keggle from shifting enough for that to happen or keep part of the original top rail on each side with a slot for the drain valve to fit through. Then you could put some pieces of plate to create a larger surface for the keggles to sit on.
Click to expand...

Aha, great point... Trying to picture a few options, is there another build thread that fixed this?

Maybe bring the sides in 2-3" so that there's enough space for the valve to pass through but the front can still rest on it?
 
Alright here's another version. There's a slot on the right for a whole home water filter (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f256/water-filter-setup-29145/). On the left is where I mounted my CFC. Thinking that will face outwards. Only real negative is my source of water & electric is over near the control panel on the right, so will need to run a hose over to the CFC during cooling.

Maybe run plate across the top and cutout the areas that the keggles's valves will sit?

brewbenchv2.jpg


Thanks,
Ryan
 
Something that I realized after I cut off the plug on my chugger was that the cord wasn't long enough to reach my panel . I ended up make a short extension with a locking plug on one end and a regular 5-15r on the pump end.
 
sandyeggoxj said:
Something that I realized after I cut off the plug on my chugger was that the cord wasn't long enough to reach my panel . I ended up make a short extension with a locking plug on one end and a regular 5-15r on the pump end.
Click to expand...

Can you post a picture? I wasn't happy with my solution for the same problem.
 
Ordered parts for the Control Panel today. All told I'm around $850 in on the CP with probes. Got a 462 instead of a 460 as well.
 
carpenike said:
Ordered parts for the Control Panel today. All told I'm around $850 in on the CP with probes. Got a 462 instead of a 460 as well.
Click to expand...


This is exactly why I've been putting it off....This project is turning out to be a lot more than I planned.


Which guide for the panel, if any, are you following?
 
jcc4507fly said:
This is exactly why I've been putting it off....This project is turning out to be a lot more than I planned.


Which guide for the panel, if any, are you following?
Click to expand...

Yeah between the kegs, keg parts, pumps, control panel, and the brew bench I'll be putting together next it'll get up to around 2500$.

Will be following ebrewsupply's wiring diagram. And will have a similar setup as his control panel for the physical placement.

Bought my enclosure from tier1automation. Pretty decent prices.
 
Ordered my breakers and SSRs over the weekend. Need to order some full couplings and go weld stuff together this weekend.

Also need the receptacles for pumps and elements. Any brand recommendations?

Thanks,
Ryan
 
carpenike said:
Hey Ryane,

Do you have any suggestions for a locking receptacle for the pumps? I'm looking at this one but it says 2 pole, will it work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leviton-232...-3W-Flanged-Outlet-Locking-Recep/290761953210

Thanks,
Ryan
Click to expand...

2P means that is has 2 conductors (H-H or H-N = the same thing) and a ground, so yes it will work for a chugger or march pump. In fact this is what I use myself.

You can always over-spec your connectors/etc and have no worry about using it. Nearly all of my high amp inputs are now 3P 480V connectors since I could source them cheaper and more easily.
 
Awesome. Thanks!

Got a couple of goodies in:

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Case is bloody huge.

ryane said:
2P means that is has 2 conductors (H-H or H-N = the same thing) and a ground, so yes it will work for a chugger or march pump. In fact this is what I use myself.

You can always over-spec your connectors/etc and have no worry about using it. Nearly all of my high amp inputs are now 3P 480V connectors since I could source them cheaper and more easily.
Click to expand...
 
carpenike said:
3x the price. :)
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I know this is like 2 weeks too late, but why doesn't anybody make lids out of the keg cutout? I wish I had a good pic handy, but I kept the piece of the keg bottom that got cut out, wrapped some of Bobby's polyvinyl edging around it, taped the **** out of it with reflectix tape (which is holding up in the moisture so far) and then put a 6 inch handle on the top, the same style that the Kal panels use. With polyvinyl edging also around the keg opening, it's enough extra material to make up for what I lost with the angle grinder.
 
Brettomomyces said:
I know this is like 2 weeks too late, but why doesn't anybody make lids out of the keg cutout? I wish I had a good pic handy, but I kept the piece of the keg bottom that got cut out, wrapped some of Bobby's polyvinyl edging around it, taped the **** out of it with reflectix tape (which is holding up in the moisture so far) and then put a 6 inch handle on the top, the same style that the Kal panels use. With polyvinyl edging also around the keg opening, it's enough extra material to make up for what I lost with the angle grinder.
Click to expand...

Yeah I still have my cutouts too. Couple reasons I went the lid path...

1. These lids are cheap... For $20 including shipping I'm done with the lid deal.
2. I ended up taking more of the edges off the top after I cut it as it wasn't a perfect circle. So the cutout is a bit small now.
 
carpenike said:
Yeah I still have my cutouts too. Couple reasons I went the lid path...

1. These lids are cheap... For $20 including shipping I'm done with the lid deal.
2. I ended up taking more of the edges off the top after I cut it as it wasn't a perfect circle. So the cutout is a bit small now.
Click to expand...

Perfectly logical, that is a good price too :rockin:
 
carpenike said:
Nice. Yeah figuring I'll use wood to build some type of base for each of them... or build a table so that there's a hole in the bottom large enough for the piping to escape.


I will be using 4 rigid casters with the wheels removed, flip them over, reattaching them to the bottom skirt of the keg through drilled holes and using the "top" of the casters as legs. That way there is plenty of room for the drain fittings and I can move the MLT around as I need to.
Click to expand...
 

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