[Not a] Bike Pump Keg [Evolution]

[pizzaman]

I swear the second I hit "Submit Reply" on that last post, my doorbell rang, its UPS with my ball-lock disconnects I ordered yesterday from AustinHomebrew. I'll definitely be ordering from them again...

Only one problem, the liquid disconnect says it's barbed, but its actually a screw-on dealy(whatever you call it), luckily I have an extra screw-on-barb-connection doo-hickey, so this should work(once I add some hose clamps of course).

Anyone know of any reason I couldn't do this with my picnic tap:


I eventually wanna buy a perlick and hook it directly up to the disconnect, so why would this be any different right? I do plan on using some tubing inside the dip tube and lowering the psi when dispensing to prevent too much foaming:

 

[pizzaman]

I'm just a few hose clamps away from kegging:

 

[the_bird]

Get yourself about five- to eight-feet of the small-ID beer line for your picnic tap. You may end up with excessive foaming with the tap set up the way you have it. The beer line has a resistance of about 2PSI/foot, so that a five foot length balances nicely (read: gives you a good pour) when your dispensing pressure is set to 10PSI. A little bit more line doesn't really hurt, just gives a little slower pour. I just coil up my lines with zip ties so that it stays neat.

 

[pizzaman]

I plan on either doing this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/adding-beerline-resistance-inside-keg-92926/ (third page, post #22) or this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/cure-your-short-hose-troubles-100151/ or some combination of these and lower psi when dispensing. If neither of these work out I'll just dispense at about 2psi, then crank the co2 back up when done drinking for the day.

 

[the_bird]

You're not going to want to be changing the pressure all the time; you're going to have to bleed off the pressure in the keg when dropping from 10PSI to 2PSI, which wastes CO2 (and you're using those small bottles, which are going to be pricey). I can't see the pics at work from the first link, but I'm telling you - a coiled length of small-ID beer line is an EASY, CHEAP solution to getting a great pour with a picnic tap.

 

[Bobby_M]

I'd see how the dip tube liner method works out first, then start adding length to the faucet setup as necessary. One of the great benefits there is that you don't have a bunch of tubing sitting outside getting warm which will just further knock the CO2 out. I know that in the past, I used to coil the tubing down around the bottom of the keg in the ice bucket to keep it cool, but having it inside the dip tube is neat.

 

[pizzaman]

Just got back from lowes with some clamps, tubing, and other dealies and doo-dads.

You want I should clamp him?!?!

Universal Fill Adapter:

CO2 & Regulator:

Everything all rigged up and ready to go:

 

[lamarguy]

CO2 & Regulator:

Wow, you connected the high pressure side with low pressure hose and clamps?

5..4..3..2..1 :cross:

 

[flyangler18]

Pizzaman,

Go back to Lowe's and get some air compressor hose. Unless you want to burst that vinyl hose, that is.

 

[lamarguy]

Pizzaman,

Go back to Lowe's and get some air compressor hose. Unless you want to burst that vinyl hose, that is.

Even with stronger hose, I believe those clamps will pop off under high pressure. He needs to do it right - get a metal fitting for the high pressure side.

Courtesy of Kegconnection:

 

[flyangler18]

Even with stronger hose, I believe those clamps will pop off under high pressure. He needs to do it right - get a metal fitting for the high pressure side.

QTF. I missed that he just used hose clamps. This has massive loss of CO2 written all over it.

He hasn't learned yet, has he?

Oetiker clamps, FTW.

 

[lamarguy]

QTF. I missed that he just used hose clamps. This has massive loss of CO2 written all over it.

He hasn't learned yet, has he?

Ya, I'm not trying to pass judgement...I just don't want to see someone get hurt when the hose bursts or the clamp pops off.

 

[bendavanza]

Pizzaman
FOr every hose clamp and hose you use, there will be a chance of leaks. For the high pressure side, you need a solid fitting, unless you have some kind of high pressure line hose, which would take special equipment to make.
Looks at the pics lamarguy posted for you. There should be a brass fitting at the hardware store that will fit. Use plenty of thread tape. check for leaks with soap suds or starsan.

 

[JesseRC]

That looks like an inline regulator. Is that what you were looking for? I dont see the fittings where it attaches to the the Tank.

Pizzaman, I mentioned this to you before, and you replied and said you be doing something similiar to some site you had seen. That guy was using threaded fittings. You've got to wrap your head around this safety thing. High pressure side should use fittings not hoses. You never know who will be around when something messes up, some kid, some dog, swmbo.

 

[Schlenkerla]

Edit: I agree this is not a good idea. I did not catch that the 1st time. Sorry.

 

[lamarguy]

Pizzaman - Don't say a damn thing!

Hey guys, hold the fark up? You guys are freakin' over nothing!

The hose going to the keg is low pressure usually less than 25 psi. It all depends on the regulator setting. Hose barbs and clamps are perfectly fine. They can hold that pressure for a long time easily 90-115 psi.

I fricken know as a engineer...

Well, then you might want to consider retaking your PE exam...

He's connecting the high pressure side with low pressure vinyl tubing and worm hose clamps. If you don't see something wrong with pressurizing low pressure vinyl tubing with ~800psi of CO2 at ambient temperature, well...

 

[pizzaman]

I did plan on using compression fittings directly to the regulator, the only problem is I am unable to remove the barbed fitting on the inlet of the regulator. I tried for a good 30 minutes to get it unscrewed, even tried pounding on a crescent wrench with a hammer for a bit but no luck...is there something I'm missing there? Do I need to pay someone to cut it off? The threads wouldn't be backwards would they? Is there some trick to loosen it off the regulator without damaging the regulator?

 

[Schlenkerla]

Well, then you might want to consider retaking your PE exam...

He's connecting the high pressure side with low pressure vinyl tubing and worm hose clamps. If you don't see something wrong with pressurizing low pressure vinyl tubing with ~800psi of CO2 at ambient temperature, well...

OK - I see what you are talking about. My earlier post was in reference to the out line. Yes, definitely not a good idea.

Pizzaman - you might try using some type of lock-ease on those threads. Possibly try using a butane torch on the thread. Either one should help ease the removal of that barb

 

[JesseRC]

The threads might be reversed , look up that regulator on google, maybe you can find details on it. If it has threads on it, it will come off. Are there any threads visible, if so you can figure out which way they are threaded.

 

[pizzaman]

I can't see any threads, it did have threading tape on it so it wasn't welded. I do have some high pressure tubing I got from lhbs, maybe I just need to use that in conjunction with some oetiker clamps...

 

[Bobby_M]

Nah, there's no freakin way barbs and clamps are going to hold back 800 psi. That's going to scare the crap out of someone at the very least when the entire tank empties and imitates a jumping jack.

 

[lamarguy]

I can't see any threads, it did have threading tape on it so it wasn't welded. I do have some high pressure tubing I got from lhbs, maybe I just need to use that in conjunction with some oetiker clamps...

Nah, there's no freakin way barbs and clamps are going to hold back 800 psi. That's going to scare the crap out of someone at the very least when the entire tank empties and imitates a jumping jack.

Dude, I say let him try it...He'll figure it out on his own soon enough.

 

[Schlenkerla]

I can't see any threads, it did have threading tape on it so it wasn't welded. I do have some high pressure tubing I got from lhbs, maybe I just need to use that in conjunction with some oetiker clamps...

If you can ID the brand and try calling the MFG'r ask about the barb. I think its just really f'n tightly on there. You could ask about the reverse thread possibility. I really doubt it though.

If you take it to a local weld shop they might help you with the thing.

 

[the_bird]

If you take it to a welding shop, you'll end up paying some guy the same as it would have cost you to buy a proper primary regulator in the first place. This whole thread has been a lesson in penny-wise, pound-foolery.

 

[Schlenkerla]

If you take it to a welding shop, you'll end up paying some guy the same as it would have cost you to buy a proper primary regulator in the first place. This whole thread has been a lesson in penny-wise, pound-foolery.

How many people have said this about making your own beer?
I was thinking they could yank it our for next to nothing. Just one fitting, with the right tools prolly 2 minutes worth of work. Hardly worth righting up a bill at some places.

 

[olllllo]

Some regs are LHT some are RHT, so you could be turning the wrong way.

I have one of each and let me tell you it was a ***** to junction them together.

Try to find a LHT to RHT nipple sometime.

 

[the_bird]

How many people have said this about making your own beer?
I was thinking they could yank it our for next to nothing. Just one fitting, with the right tools prolly 2 minutes worth of work. Hardly worth righting up a bill at some places.

Probably depends on the welder; there might be a minimum cost. I just know that I've bought used primary regs for not very much money and not had to dink around with little parts and pieces whose costs add up pretty quickly and that, best-case, aren't really designed to do the job. Having to pay someone to put it all together is just the final insult.

And as I think you know, making beer is NOT about saving money. Hell, if I added in all my equipment-acquisition costs... well, I'm not going to do the math!

 

[Schlenkerla]

Probably depends on the welder; there might be a minimum cost. I just know that I've bought used primary regs for not very much money and not had to dink around with little parts and pieces whose costs add up pretty quickly and that, best-case, aren't really designed to do the job. Having to pay someone to put it all together is just the final insult.

And as I think you know, making beer is NOT about saving money. Hell, if I added in all my equipment-acquisition costs... well, I'm not going to do the math!

Exactly - We do it because we can or have the desire, and want something different.

Agreed - There a point where you dink around long enough that its easier to go buy it someplace. (Thinking Kegs) At times it might be worth DIY, like the beer engine thread.

 

[JesseRC]

pizzaman, Just fyi or any others in SA, craigslist , still has 10lbs of co2 in it.:

Co2 cylinder 15 pounds

Co2 cylinder 15 pounds - $70 (potranco/151(seaworld))

 

[pizzaman]

Obviously since this shipped with a barbed fitting, it's a secondary regulator. Since I have no use for a secondary regulator, I'll go ahead and ask: Can I use a secondary regulator as a primary regulator?

 

[bendavanza]

NO
secondaries have a max input PSI, usually only a couple hundred max PSI, not thousands.

 

[pizzaman]

NO
secondaries have a max input PSI, usually only a couple hundred max PSI, not thousands.

That's pretty much what I thought. I just sent an email to draught technologies to confirm this, but I won't be using it as a primary to be on the safe side. Since I have no use for a secondary regulator I'm working out a return with the seller, otherwise I'll be selling it.

 

[pizzaman]

Haven't heard back from Draught Tech yet, but I did receive an email from the guy who sold me the regulator on ebay. He already issued me a full refund and doesn't even want me to send the regulator back to him. I guess I got a free secondary regulator to go with my free cornie kegs...the search continues to find a primary co2 regulator.

 

[JesseRC]

So what finally made you decide it would not work, are you saying the barb still wont come off? I thought you had pictures posted of the psi specs. Well I guess you could sell it, but you'll probably use it some day.

 

[pizzaman]

According to the images at their website, the regulator model number is DTR1101, which is listed as a secondary regulator.

 

[pizzaman]

Bippity Boppity Boop, just ordered this from kegcowboy.com for $33:

 

[bendavanza]

OK Pizzaman, looks like you are on the right track with solid equipment. Check the setup for leaks once you get it assembled, or you will have an empty co2 bottle fast.
cheers

 

[pizzaman]

Is anyone ever really done with their kegging system? Always upgrading and improving....?


[EDIT]It appears this post was edited [/EDIT]

 

[bendavanza]

Pizza
Without resources and feedback from places like this, it would be easy to under or over carb your beer, blow stuff up, accidentally empty a freshly filled co2 tank, have a keg leak out all it's beer into the fridge when you are not looking, have foaming issues because of line length and ID, serving temp, temp differences, etc. Even with all these resources it can be daunting, like , "why is my beer not carbed in 2 days" or "this beer is all foam", I have a beer gusher, etc.

If you want to force carb your beer a simple proven method is to set you regulator at 10-15 psi (depending on the style), attach it to a 36-40 degree keg, and let it sit for a week or two.
Other methods include shaking and higher pressures, and all things in between.

 

[pizzaman]

I hadn't planned on force carbing my beer...at least not until I can afford a kegerator and a larger co2 tank. I have seen mini-fridges for as cheap as $20 on craigslist which I'm sure I can afford, but the cheapest I've seen for a 5# tank is $60 (w/shipping) at aquariumplants.com