Stealthcruiser
Well-Known Member
At the risk of having to wade back through the whole thread......Which website, and which item, Please........
Stealthcruiser said:At the risk of having to wade back through the whole thread......Which website, and which item, Please........
johns said:Glad I found this thread. I also have been looking to get rid of my HF drill for milling. I remember someone here said that milling 22 lbs is no problem. What about 30 or 40 lbs? I imagine there is none, but its better to ask from someone that has done it before. Has anyone ever done 30 or 40 lbs with this setup before? Are these 1/2 hp motors interchangeable?
Since I own a garage door company I have access to hundreds of used garage door motors. We generally put them in the steel dumpster. I have an MM2 crusher and will try to adapt one over the weekend. A remote control grain mill would be wickid pissa!
www.colonialdoorworks.com
Since I own a garage door company I have access to hundreds of used garage door motors. We generally put them in the steel dumpster. I have an MM2 crusher and will try to adapt one over the weekend. A remote control grain mill would be wickid pissa!
www.colonialdoorworks.com
Just placed my order at the Surplus site. Was going to hit you up for one but figured it would be easier at first to get it all from one site. I might be begging for one if I burn this one up
All that in a little over 40 hours! Amazing!
slbradley01 said:Crush-Master! Only does about 120RPM's but I think it should work great. It's a attached to a Crankendsein 2D I think. I adapted an old Lift Master door opener. Ripped out the electronics and added a on/off switch to the open side of the motor. Welded a 3/8" sleeve onto the drive sprocket, slid it over the shaft of the mill, drilled a hole and tapped in a roll pin. Added an angle iron support and voila!
Sweet!
Crush-Master! Only does about 120RPM's but I think it should work great. It's a attached to a Crankendsein 2D I think.
I adapted an old Lift Master door opener. Ripped out the electronics and added a on/off switch to the open side of the motor. Welded a 3/8" sleeve onto the drive sprocket, slid it over the shaft of the mill, drilled a hole and tapped in a roll pin. Added an angle iron support and voila!
Is there a gear reducer on that thing? If so would it be possible to get a close up picture of it?
Took about an hour and a half, including poking around the garage for parts. I was originally going to leave the electronics so i could run it off a remote control but thanks to UL safety built into the circuit board, it auto shut down after 30 seconds. .
That sounds like a good option. The connection I came up with is pretty positive. There's not much give to it. Dora the Lovejoy have a rubber bushing?
Yes the 1100+- rpm motor is reduced to 110 via a worm gear. The worm gear is on the motor shaft, the drive gear is on the sprocket shaft.
johns said:Those worm gears look interesting. Does anyone know if it would be possible to replace them with metal worm gears from say, Grainger, or another place similar? I was just wondering how durable they would be milling 40 lbs of crystal malt (its really hard stuff to go through), The motors are a dime a dozen. Washing machine, furnace, or garage door openers are all about the same, more or less. the main point in these setup is the gear reduction output in terms or rpm and torque as measured in foot/pounds. Id still like to get away from HF drills, but dont want to spend hundreds of dollars for an industrial gear reducer.
Those worm gears look interesting. Does anyone know if it would be possible to replace them with metal worm gears from say, Grainger, or another place similar?
I was just wondering how durable they would be milling 40 lbs of crystal malt (its really hard stuff to go through), The motors are a dime a dozen. Washing machine, furnace, or garage door openers are all about the same, more or less. the main point in these setup is the gear reduction output in terms or rpm and torque as measured in foot/pounds. Id still like to get away from HF drills, but dont want to spend hundreds of dollars for an industrial gear reducer.
I seriously doubt you will have any problem with the plastic drive gears. They are very durable and although not designed to do so, they can dead lift a 150 lb garage door without stripping out. This is when both springs on the garage door have broken but somehow nobody managed to notice.
HOMEOWNER: " I thought that since it had an electric door opener, it didn't need any springs."
you wouldn't believe the number of times I have heard this.
Grind the welds out and it'll come right offYaksha808 said:How in the heck do I remove the sproket?! Im trying to figure it out but I have no idea
Sure thing, will give it a shot:
Garage Door Opener Motor & Gearcase: $9.95
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=5-1677&catname=electric
L050 Lovejoy Coupling, made up of:
Drive side, 1/2" Bore: $3.26
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HIWO0G/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Driven Side, 3/8" Bore: $3.26
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HIWNX4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Rubber Spider: $2.10
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HIWQJK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
10A DPDT Toggle Switch (Used for FWD/REV): $4.49
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062514
Single Pole 15A Light Switch $0.69
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...t-Almond-R56-01451-02T/100669880#.UhGUWtKt3Ws
White Lithium Grease (I added this to the worm gear after the first batch to help it out with the load/duration, I had noticed some wear during the first batch but it's looked clean since I put this stuff on there). $4.58
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lucas-Oil-8-oz-White-Lithium-Grease-10533/202535870#.UhGV7dKt3Ws
Other than the wood, the mill itself, and the stereo cabinet (which I bought at goodwill for nothing), I think that's it. Motorized for <$40!
Let me know if I missed anything and/or you still have questions about the guts. Happy to help a fellow cheapskate
How in the heck do I remove the sproket?! Im trying to figure it out but I have no idea
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