... [edit] After mulling this over in the shower, and then checking the reverse leakage current vs voltage and temperature specs for a random pair of generic diodes, I believe adding a series diode to each LED will indeed protect the LEDs nicely.
day_trippr was referring to reverse current handling capability -- when the LED is *not* lit because the polarity of the current is backwards. Apparently LEDS have a fairly wimpy back door that's easily broken down by [microamp] current.
..Todd
Hi i just got here, I am starting to brew and need to control my temperatures, i live in Sao Paulo Brazil and temps. do variate a lot here.
it is a nice but really really long tread.
Can anyone point me where to start, where can i find the hardware and software beginnings?
I tried to go to page one but... there are 241 after that...
Thanks.
So I spent about three hours on Friday trying to get WiFi to work properly.
After a half hour I had everything working on WiFi and just needed to set a static IP. I stepped away for a few hours and when I came back, WiFi did not work. After two and a half hours of trouble shooting i said F it and bought Ethernet over power modules.
Hi i just got here, I am starting to brew and need to control my temperatures, i live in Sao Paulo Brazil and temps. do variate a lot here.
it is a nice but really really long tread.
Can anyone point me where to start, where can i find the hardware and software beginnings?
I tried to go to page one but... there are 241 after that...
Thanks.
What are ethernet over power modules and can you provide a link to what you bought?
[Edit] Are you talking about power line adapters?
Yep, I am talking about powerline adapters.
I couldn't remember what the official name was, so I went with the opposite of PoE.
I got these.
FWIW the edimax WiFi dongle listed under the RPints equipment list has worked flawlessly for me. I've had it running one way or another since June. It will be my go to and have two sitting at home ready for my next project
I think the one I'm using is the same chipset. I actually had that edimax for my pi a few years ago but it burned out pretty quickly.
Hi i just got here, I am starting to brew and need to control my temperatures, i live in Sao Paulo Brazil and temps. do variate a lot here.
it is a nice but really really long tread.
Can anyone point me where to start, where can i find the hardware and software beginnings?
I tried to go to page one but... there are 241 after that...
Thanks.
Yea - this thread needs to be condensed down and an article written... Hmm...
Ummm
wiki.brewpi.com
?
You can edit the wiki
Does anyone have rpi wifi stability issues? I'm using rpi B, arduion uno, and this wifi usb dongle. Also, using a att uverse router, don't know the make/model at the moment.
The rpi (or my router) will drop the wifi connection after a few days, and I have to turn the rpi off and on again to get back up and running. All the indicator lights are still blinking on the pi, and an indicator led within the wifi dongle indicates that it's furiously trying to talk to something. I know it's not connected to my wifi because it's not listed in my router's active devices when this happens. The pi's operating system is running, when I do reset I can see that all my temp data was still being logged.
Also, probably not related, I had to recently switch to a static IP address because dhcp was giving me a lot of trouble. But this dropping issue was happening then too.
Here are some screen shots of my brewpi controlling my last brew. It stayed really tight though out the active fermentation. It didn't start swinging more "wildly" until after i had bumped up the temp a few time. One has the garage temp the other doesn't. With the lasko heater, I wonder how important the placement of fridge temp probe is. I have a shelf holding up my fermenter about 25 inches with the heater below it. The probe for the fridge temp hangs under the shelf. I imagine if i had it further from the heater i would get larger swings, though thats just conjecture. Next is to cold crash it and see if I run into the issues that have been brought up earlier in the thread.
Are you using a thermowell?
Here's a drawing of the circuit that I built on a Radio Shack Prototype Shield (plugs right on top of an Uno). It's based on the BrewPi Rev C shield schematic and uses a 20x4 LCD, a 74HC595 Shift Register and a couple of 10K pull-up resistors.
Here's an corrected layout that connects the LCD to ground (properly). The original shield also includes a couple of capacitors that I did not need (blue cap is 100nF and yellow one is 10uF - if using a polarized cap watch your orientation). If your power source is marginal adding these two caps may help. Also the contrast pot (in my case) had a very narrow range of use.
Me again, and out of my depth once more, (my brewing OK by the way) it's the improving my kit that i'm struggling on.
Link to post i'm referring too LCD Installing LCD on Brew Pi
As Homer Simpson would say Doh!
Which of the above diagrams is the working model i note that their is one revised version that shows to LEDs , but i can't see these on the actual picture of the working unit. I have frizting and have tried to replicate but it keeps saying I am 1 connection still to be routed. a link to the fritzing diagram would actually be great that way i know exactly which one i was working with.
thanks again for your help
Sorry meant capacitors - blue cap is 100nF and yellow one is 10uF
You'd think BrewPi would account for the sudden rise in temperature and cut back the "on" time for the heater.
Instead, it looks like BrewPi is losing its mind a bit.
It would have been interesting to have noted the algorithm settings before those swings (a bit hyperbolic - the temp deltas are still pretty small) started showing up to see what changed.
Not that it has anything to do with the above, but if you don't have a small fan keeping the air stirred up 24/7, consider adding one...
Cheers!
Enter your email address to join: