HOWTO - Make a BrewPi Fermentation Controller For Cheap
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100amps
100 Amp (Home) Brewing
I'm guessing a rectifier diode like a 1N or UF4003 would be appropriate here?
And the diode inserted 'after' the LED so it blocks the negative half of the cycle?
..Todd
Something that can handle 40mA would be good. The LED shouldn't draw even half that, the rest is guard band.
And it doesn't matter which side of the LED you put the diode, it's going to block any reverse current flow through itself - and thus the LED - down to the nanoampere level, regardless.
Cheers!
And it doesn't matter which side of the LED you put the diode, it's going to block any reverse current flow through itself - and thus the LED - down to the nanoampere level, regardless.
Cheers!
Gotcha....
The spec is actually PIV - Peak Inverse Voltage - an LED's dont take much of it compared to a rectifier diodes. They dont like to be reverse biased.
100amps
100 Amp (Home) Brewing
Here's a version using a single LED (now that we have some additional diodes in there, 2 LEDs aren't strictly required.) Hmm.. maybe I should recalculate the current draw on that LED. The resistor and cap might need adjusting.
EDIT: Pic updated. Assuming the rectifier diodes don't draw current like LEDs (?), then the capacitor value should be cut in half to .22uF (220 nF).
..Todd
And a big thanks to day_trippr for his direction here.
EDIT: Pic updated. Assuming the rectifier diodes don't draw current like LEDs (?), then the capacitor value should be cut in half to .22uF (220 nF).
..Todd
And a big thanks to day_trippr for his direction here.
100amps
100 Amp (Home) Brewing
And here's a little kit that will work for this too. You could get 2 of them and swap out the blue LED for a red one on the heat side power. At the very least, it simplifies the parts shopping.
http://www.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/MK181
..Todd
http://www.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/MK181
..Todd
Lisca
Active Member
Hi i just got here, I am starting to brew and need to control my temperatures, i live in Sao Paulo Brazil and temps. do variate a lot here.
it is a nice but really really long tread.
Can anyone point me where to start, where can i find the hardware and software beginnings?
I tried to go to page one but... there are 241 after that...
Thanks.
it is a nice but really really long tread.
Can anyone point me where to start, where can i find the hardware and software beginnings?
I tried to go to page one but... there are 241 after that...
Thanks.
The very first post should have all the instruction you need to get up and running, he lists the hardware you would need and how it all goes together, and how to install the required software. It's all still current information if that's what you are concerned about.
Does anyone have rpi wifi stability issues? I'm using rpi B, arduion uno, and this wifi usb dongle. Also, using a att uverse router, don't know the make/model at the moment.
The rpi (or my router) will drop the wifi connection after a few days, and I have to turn the rpi off and on again to get back up and running. All the indicator lights are still blinking on the pi, and an indicator led within the wifi dongle indicates that it's furiously trying to talk to something. I know it's not connected to my wifi because it's not listed in my router's active devices when this happens. The pi's operating system is running, when I do reset I can see that all my temp data was still being logged.
Also, probably not related, I had to recently switch to a static IP address because dhcp was giving me a lot of trouble. But this dropping issue was happening then too.
The rpi (or my router) will drop the wifi connection after a few days, and I have to turn the rpi off and on again to get back up and running. All the indicator lights are still blinking on the pi, and an indicator led within the wifi dongle indicates that it's furiously trying to talk to something. I know it's not connected to my wifi because it's not listed in my router's active devices when this happens. The pi's operating system is running, when I do reset I can see that all my temp data was still being logged.
Also, probably not related, I had to recently switch to a static IP address because dhcp was giving me a lot of trouble. But this dropping issue was happening then too.
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BrewCityBaller
Well-Known Member
So I spent about three hours on Friday trying to get WiFi to work properly.
After a half hour I had everything working on WiFi and just needed to set a static IP. I stepped away for a few hours and when I came back, WiFi did not work. After two and a half hours of trouble shooting i said F it and bought Ethernet over power modules.
After a half hour I had everything working on WiFi and just needed to set a static IP. I stepped away for a few hours and when I came back, WiFi did not work. After two and a half hours of trouble shooting i said F it and bought Ethernet over power modules.
So I spent about three hours on Friday trying to get WiFi to work properly.
After a half hour I had everything working on WiFi and just needed to set a static IP. I stepped away for a few hours and when I came back, WiFi did not work. After two and a half hours of trouble shooting i said F it and bought Ethernet over power modules.
What are ethernet over power modules and can you provide a link to what you bought?
[Edit] Are you talking about power line adapters?
wbarber69
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BrewCityBaller
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Yep, I am talking about powerline adapters.
I couldn't remember what the official name was, so I went with the opposite of PoE.
I got these.
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FWIW the edimax WiFi dongle listed under the RPints equipment list has worked flawlessly for me. I've had it running one way or another since June. It will be my go to and have two sitting at home ready for my next project
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+1. Never got my Debian-on-Dell-laptop to faithfully maintain wireless so I went with 200Mbps and 500Mbps ones (I've tried 2 pairs, 500 was nice but not necessary in this application and I wanted to use them somewhere else in the house)
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I think the one I'm using is the same chipset. I actually had that edimax for my pi a few years ago but it burned out pretty quickly.
Interesting. Like I said I've had zero issues with it. Of course that's just my experience. I have one on my RPints/temp logger (thanks day tripper and rpints crew) and haven't had issues with it either. Again just my experience, but with others have such issues with other setups I'm not changing mine unless it stops working.
Yea - this thread needs to be condensed down and an article written... Hmm...
+1, or a wiki
One specific for this thread - Arduino sheild-less, power supply requirements, DIY display & Encoder, Linux WIFI, External net options, .htaccess, Apache Proxy options, multiple chambers.... I'll probably think of more later.
basisforaday
Well-Known Member
Alright guys, everything is up an running. Even figured out the external hosting so I can view from anywhere! I have questions about settings though. Right now when I set beer temp to 65 i get a swing up to about 66.3 or so then back down to 65. I'm using the Lasko My Heat as recommended on the first page of this thread. Should I use a fan with this? And back to the settngs..what does everyone use for their PID settings? What about the filtering and other options in the Advanced Settings?
I'm back to std settings but have moved to a very low wattage heater. 25w light bulb. I have lasko type heater but wouldn't put it in unless I wound it back with a dimmer. Lot of variables eg ambient temp and where your fermentation chamber is located and size of chamber and fermenter. My comments based on 5 gallon fermenter in bar fridge (chamber) with large ambient temp swings in shed.
Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
I guess I knew that but never attempted it
Here are some screen shots of my brewpi controlling my last brew. It stayed really tight though out the active fermentation. It didn't start swinging more "wildly" until after i had bumped up the temp a few time. One has the garage temp the other doesn't. With the lasko heater, I wonder how important the placement of fridge temp probe is. I have a shelf holding up my fermenter about 25 inches with the heater below it. The probe for the fridge temp hangs under the shelf. I imagine if i had it further from the heater i would get larger swings, though thats just conjecture. Next is to cold crash it and see if I run into the issues that have been brought up earlier in the thread.
craigmw
Well-Known Member
I've had RPi WiFi stability issues as well, though not on my BrewPi. I have a OpenSprinkler Pi controlling sprinklers in the back yard, and I lose WiFi connections to this every week or so. My BrewPi is hardwired using Cat5e connected to my LAN, so it's never an issue. In any event, there are a few posts in this long thread that cover WiFi reconnection. Basically, you can have the RPi check the WiFi connection, and if it is lost, it can re-establish the WiFi connection. It will require some work in Raspbian Wheezy (the Linux OS that runs on the RPi), and you need to configure your WiFi connection by editing some of the configuration files. You can also use a Bash script to do this for you. In any event, you can either follow through the thread here to find these, or Google RPi WiFi reconnect to find other posts about how to do this.
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Are you using a thermowell?
Yes I am. The one recommended in the first post. This is a 11.5 gallon batch.
You'd think BrewPi would account for the sudden rise in temperature and cut back the "on" time for the heater.
Instead, it looks like BrewPi is losing its mind a bit.
It would have been interesting to have noted the algorithm settings before those swings (a bit hyperbolic - the temp deltas are still pretty small) started showing up to see what changed.
Not that it has anything to do with the above, but if you don't have a small fan keeping the air stirred up 24/7, consider adding one...
Cheers!
Instead, it looks like BrewPi is losing its mind a bit.
It would have been interesting to have noted the algorithm settings before those swings (a bit hyperbolic - the temp deltas are still pretty small) started showing up to see what changed.
Not that it has anything to do with the above, but if you don't have a small fan keeping the air stirred up 24/7, consider adding one...
Cheers!
Mikmonken
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Me again, and out of my depth once more, (my brewing OK by the way) it's the improving my kit that i'm struggling on.
Link to post i'm referring too LCD Installing LCD on Brew Pi
As Homer Simpson would say Doh!
Which of the above diagrams is the working model i note that their is one revised version that shows to LEDs , but i can't see these on the actual picture of the working unit. I have frizting and have tried to replicate but it keeps saying I am 1 connection still to be routed. a link to the fritzing diagram would actually be great that way i know exactly which one i was working with.
thanks again for your help
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BrewCityBaller
Well-Known Member
Me again, and out of my depth once more, (my brewing OK by the way) it's the improving my kit that i'm struggling on.
Link to post i'm referring too LCD Installing LCD on Brew Pi
As Homer Simpson would say Doh!
Which of the above diagrams is the working model i note that their is one revised version that shows to LEDs , but i can't see these on the actual picture of the working unit. I have frizting and have tried to replicate but it keeps saying I am 1 connection still to be routed. a link to the fritzing diagram would actually be great that way i know exactly which one i was working with.
thanks again for your help
It looks like the second diagram in that post is the correct one. That diagram matches the documentation for the PinOut that shows D13, D11, and D10 being used for the LCD. It also has the pull-up resistors. I am not sure which version you are talking about that has LEDs. Neither of those diagrams shows LEDs.
BrewCityBaller
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It sounds like those capacitors were already on the proto shield that he used. I imagine just to try to clean up any power ripples since the shield could be used for any number of projects. He actually mentions in the write up that he did not need them.
Unless your power supply is crummy I don't think you need them. I had an LCD running on a different Arduino project for a year without caps. I am of the opinion that you will be fine without them.
At the moment I don't have an extra fan in there. I wanted to see how it was going to work with just the fans running for the heat and freezer. I do have plans to add a fan though. I'm going to use my old freezer to prototype the setup and then use in the winter with just heat to lager or maybe ferment if I do a double batch. I just need time at home to figure it all out and to do the reverse proxy (?) Thing you and another member mentioned earlier in the thread. I am a bit surprised that its acting this way but really its not a big deal. It got through the active fermentation just fine. Now its just dry hopping until I get home to deal with the airlock prior to cold crashing. I think in the future when its cold out I will unplug the freezes after fermentation is complete.
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