The Pol
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2007
- Messages
- 11,390
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- 118
Maybe not to "code" but what the hell are we doing that is even close to code?
JB Weld: Like metal, J-B STIK can be formed, drilled, ground, tapped, machined, filled, sanded, and painted. It stays pliable for about 30 minutes after mixing, sets in 4-6 hours, and cures fully in 15-24 hours. It's water-proof; petroleum-, chemical-, and acid-resistent; resists shock, vibration, and extreme temperature fluctuations, and withstands temperatures up to 500° F. J-B STIK is super strong, non-toxic, and safe to use. Before it sets, you can clean up with soap and water.
Potting electrical connections in insualting epoxy is nothing new... I chose JB because in my experience it is much stronger than most "plastic" epoxies.
I appreciate all of the help, and critisizm... I do. I have a feeling there are many reading this thread with electric rigs who are thinking "hell, I didnt do it that way!" and are choosing not to chime in so that they dont get reprimanded for what they have done.
I am not planning to connect any "box" to my keggle... I am simply constructing a PVC housing to surround my element electrical connections, filling it with insulating epoxy to make a SOLID block that is impervious to heat, water, condensation etc. This will NOT be connected to the keg, but will become a part of the element itself. The epoxy will extend to include the power cord sheath, not simply "coat" the connections, adding extra strength. I have done this in the past, and it is still working flawlessly.
I may be stupid when it comes to these things, but I do my best to mitigate as best I can.
JB Weld: Like metal, J-B STIK can be formed, drilled, ground, tapped, machined, filled, sanded, and painted. It stays pliable for about 30 minutes after mixing, sets in 4-6 hours, and cures fully in 15-24 hours. It's water-proof; petroleum-, chemical-, and acid-resistent; resists shock, vibration, and extreme temperature fluctuations, and withstands temperatures up to 500° F. J-B STIK is super strong, non-toxic, and safe to use. Before it sets, you can clean up with soap and water.
Potting electrical connections in insualting epoxy is nothing new... I chose JB because in my experience it is much stronger than most "plastic" epoxies.
I appreciate all of the help, and critisizm... I do. I have a feeling there are many reading this thread with electric rigs who are thinking "hell, I didnt do it that way!" and are choosing not to chime in so that they dont get reprimanded for what they have done.
I am not planning to connect any "box" to my keggle... I am simply constructing a PVC housing to surround my element electrical connections, filling it with insulating epoxy to make a SOLID block that is impervious to heat, water, condensation etc. This will NOT be connected to the keg, but will become a part of the element itself. The epoxy will extend to include the power cord sheath, not simply "coat" the connections, adding extra strength. I have done this in the past, and it is still working flawlessly.
I may be stupid when it comes to these things, but I do my best to mitigate as best I can.