bmarley5780
Well-Known Member
Ha! That PDF of the coffe urn even has a wiring diagram that includes a contactor...
Regarding the rehostat question. Stove top elements run around 1500W. A 3500W+ element would roast that rheostat.
Actually, stove top elements run higher than that and the infinite heat switches (not my name for them) that are used to control them are usually rated for 15 amps which would control a 3500 watt element.
Universal infinite heat switch
Pol:
I use a PID and SSR to control the elements in my BK. I simply put it in manual mode at 100% power until the boil starts and then ramp back the % power until I can maintain a nice rolling boil.
Pol:
I do have a 3 pole power distribution block. Each pole accepts one line and can then distribute to 6 different lines. You can buy many different combinations. See below:
http://www.cooperbussmann.com/pdf/4ae36753-c01a-49dd-bbc8-0beb365c0869.pdf
My power cord has 4 wires - 2 hot (red & black), 1 neutral (white) and ground (green). The power cord enters the enclosure and the 2 hots and neutral wires are hooked up to my 3 pole power distribution block. The ground wire hooks up to a separate grounding block. From the power distribution block, I then "distribute" wires as needed. For 240 VAC elements I run two hots. For the 120 VAC components such as my pump and PID, I run one hot and a neutral. Everything that can possibly be grounded, is grounded.
(2) hots running to the SSR and out to the element
(1) hot and (1) neutral running to the PID for control power
??????
Pol - go with the 40A SSR. It is very little extra.
That 25A will be at 85% of max, generating a lot of heat. Heat is not a friend to an SSR.
Virtuous:
"You cant run power from a 220 GFCI and then split it into 110 because the current returning through the neutral will cause the GFCI to pop. So all of the breakers need to be wired in parallel."
This is exactly how my brewery is set up. I have one 50 amp, 240 VAC GFI breaker in my load center. I run the power thru a single (very large) power cord to an enclosure on my brewframe. I have power distribution block for my 2 hot limbs and my neutral limb. I have a separate grounding block. I run my two 4500 watt elements on 240 VAC and my pump and PID on 120VAC (from one of the hot limbs). I have used it for two seasons and never tripped the GFI. I think this is way any appliance that uses both 240 VAC and 120 VAC (dryer or stove) is wired.
Pol:
I use a PID and SSR to control the elements in my BK. I simply put it in manual mode at 100% power until the boil starts and then ramp back the % power until I can maintain a nice rolling boil.
Hey thats cool, but it puts you at 3600W max, which is pretty close to the 3500W element. I wouldnt recommend them. Plus if he wants to expand he cant use it.Actually, stove top elements run higher than that and the infinite heat switches (not my name for them) that are used to control them are usually rated for 15 amps which would control a 3500 watt element.
I really dont think that I can accomplish building an E-keggle... I can fly a plane, but this stuff is way out of my league. Wiring a PID, to an SSR and programming it to modulate duty cycles etc... what the heck.
3500 watt would be the best because 4500 will over boil 10 gallons with out a PID.
I would even go 3000 watts.
Thats if your running 240v
Can a Ranco switch 240V at say 23A? I thought most were limited to 120v at 16A. In that case you still need an SSR and a PID is cheaper than buying a JC419 or a Ranco. The LOVE controllers to my knowlege are also incapable of switching on/off 240v at 23A...
I think that the quote that you responded to was referring to the fact that you will not find a 3000W 120V element, so I would have to go 240V to do it... In fact I cannot find an element over 5500W that is ULWD... so that seems to be my limit for element size.
....... The above reply with using only 3,000 watts I LMAO thinking about the long heat rise times then the example of 12 volts which is true that would only take 250 amps.
So, on a boil kettle, you need two things. On startup, you need to bring the wort to a boil quickly. This is full power. Then once it is at boiling, you need to reduce the power to what it takes to maintain the boil. Exactly what you do on the kitchen stove.
To do this, you need either
1. a big ass rheostat ( Pol found one for $77 ),
2. a timer control circuit wired to the SSR with a variable input.
3. a microprocessor with custom code.
4. That 2-pole switch that beemer alluded to
So since you already have a PID, just use the PID in manual (%) mode to control the boil duty cycle. Start at 100%, once boil is reached, turn it down.
In my reply #71 I mentioned "only 3,000 watts I LMAO thinking about the long heat rise times" vs the higher wattage elements that were mentioned before. Well this got bull8042 into this thread on my case about my reply. No worries just my opinion looking for shorter temp rise times.
Yes bull8042 on reply #71 I know 3kw energy is 3kw energy be it any voltage applied the amperage takes a big hit like I posted at 250 amps with 12 volts.
I bet bull8042 reply #17 to use a 7,200 watt hot tub element would have way higher wattage per/sq inch than any elements we have been brewing with in the past, I smell scorch on that one unless i'm proved wrong.
Pol, on your reply #34 "I am not an electrical engineer", you do not have to be one to build your electrical brewing unit.
I think I've about covered everyone that has replied to Pol's starting thread and by now must have everyone pissed off at me, I had to reply and comment.
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