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@TxBrew Thanks for the hard work! Here's my first ever brew on my brew stand. I've got about 20 brews in since this was taken.

I decided to go with Cascade/Amarillo/Simcoe. I'm replacing each 2 oz Galaxy addition with a 3 oz addition of that combo. I don't think IBUs will be an issue since they're whirlpool/dry hop only. The original recipe gets no IBUs from Galaxy.

This thread is awesome. What are you planning to brew 80 gallons of?

The 2 closest homebrew shops to me don't have Galaxy. I may be able to check the other shops, but they're a bit of a drive. I have Citra hops, but I just kegged a Citra/Mosaic DIPA so I don't want to have 2 Citra beers on. What hops have others tried with this beer that worked well? I was...

In!

I suggest one of these. It is 10.25 x 10.25 x 9. You'd just need to come up with something to set underneath it, perhaps an upside down colander...

I'm having some trouble deciding what to brew next. Lately, I only brew super hoppy IPA/DIPAs, big imperial stouts and flavored beers (coffee stout, pumpkin ale, spiced winter warmer). I'm trying to break my norm for my next 2 brews. I have a big 9% DIPA that used 20oz of hops I will be kegging...

Brewing an 8% DIPA with 15 oz of hops this morning. Struggled with my mash temp because it's so cold out, but it turned out alright. Getting ready to sparge now.

75 is not too cool to pitch yeast. You should ideally be pitching your yeast at 62-65 for that yeast and fermenting at the same temp.

What were your hydrometer readings?

I brewed a Coffee Stout this morning. Well right now it's just a stout, adding whole beans to primary after fermentation. Target OG was 1.069, I ended up at 1.067.

I don't keep the bottles around for very long, but I only ever fill bottles with tubing. I purge them with CO2 first, so while I haven't tested it I'd bet they'd keep for quite a while.

Buckets here as well. I stocked up on carboys in my first couple years of brewing. They only get used for long term aging now.

Do yourself a favor and throw the kit instructions away. Pick up a copy of How to Brew by John Palmer. It has much better information and explains the reasoning behind each step. Instructions that tell you to measure your fermentation by time are just plain wrong. The airlock bubbling does not...

I'm planning to brew this Sunday morning. I'm going for a somewhat sweet base beer balanced by a good level of slightly bitter coffee flavor. The FG is calculated at 1.021 based on 70% attenuation from the S-04, but I'm guessing it will be more like 1.016-1.018. I didn't split up the base malt...

Sold!

I'd be lying if I said I wasn't jealous of that space you've got to dedicate to brewing. When you say Speidel 20L, are you referring to the Braumeister? Personally, with that much space, I'd go a different route.

I'd be lying if I said I wasn't jealous of that space you've got to dedicate to brewing. When you say Speidel 20L, are you referring to the Braumeister? Personally, with that much space, I'd go a different route.

I'm not a mead expert, so someone else may correct me. My understanding is that as long as your yeast nutrient does not contain urea it will be fine to use. Look in to staggered nutrient additions if you haven't yet. This will make your mead ferment much quicker than one up-front addition.

5 7 gallon buckets 4 5 gallon glass carboys 1 6.5 gallon glass carboy 1 2.5 gallon plastic Mr. Beer fermentor I have never used 5 1 gallon glass jugs for experiments/yeast starters