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There are statements that kveik performs better in high OG. Not sure that's verified, but those who state this then conclude kveik isn't a good choice for a low OG/low ABV beer. This confuses me. If maltotriose negative and low attenuation yeasts like Windsor are recommended for low ABV, then...

Kinda same thinking that I have. I believe that hop additions at all phases is likely best, but I have limited brewing time. So, I have made the choice to focus on hopstand, and tinker with it to get reasonable results that I'm looking for in ales. As long as you understand the fundamental...

The basic jist is that you can successfully do a hopstand only or dry hop only, depending on your goal. These are generalizations, but hopstand only will tend to less sharp bitterness than hot side additions and more towards flavor and aroma. Add more hops than a recipe lists for hot side...

Heineken 0.0 is on my grocery list, seems best reviewed of my local options including Bud Zero, Hoogarden 0.0 and Bavaria 0.0. But I do want to experiment with brewing a near 0.0 too. I think the advice to heat longer is sound, so let's tweak my original plan to now heat and hold at 175 F for...

A very sad day...I can't consume alcohol for a while due to medication, so I'm proposing the following and looking for input. Follow my usual ale process to end of fermentation but do not include any post flameout hops (90-100% of my hops go in post flameout in one way or another). At end of...

Oops, sorry re: the math concept. And, to be clear to all those listening, I won't be brewing any more beer all year...20 gals in 4 days, that's it...not a drop more...nope, dry county...yessireebob...no cider...no wine...nada

5 gal SMASH NEPA + 5 gal SMASH NEPA (see...not a typo, New England Pale Ale not an IPA) + 5 gal Standard Porter + 5 gal Red Ale = 20 gal in 4 days and really?, the US feds place a limit on homebrew and actually enforce it? land of the free?

I do no boil LME, usually with steeping grains and occasionally with DME. Thought others might be interested in my LME and steeping grains process. Put steeping grains in bag in cold water at ratio of approx 1 lb grains:2 L water Bring up to ~72 C and remove from heat Steep for 15 minutes...

4.4% ABV. It's coming around slowly now, but my basement brew area has actually dropped to 64 F now, which hasn't helped things it seems. Don't have a good warmer area to move the beer to, so I will just wait but it seems it will get there soonish.

Hear ya. Sorry, i should have mentioned that a hefeweizen I bottled at same time and is stored alongside the saison is carbonating as expected.

Bottled a saison 9 days ago that is showing extremely limited signs of carbonating. Beer hit its target numbers. I used my usual amount of priming sugar. Beer is in PET bottles and they feel soft. There is the slightest hint of a psst when I opened a bottle, but that's it. Sitting at 66F...

Did Coopers extract kits (kit + kilo type) back in early 90s when in college...cheap beer, definitely most batches had serious homebrew twang etc., but it did the job. Started again few years ago, with extract kits again but more like toucan with minor sugar additions. Boiled LME as per...

Typically I boil 6 L for a 22L batch And, yes I agree I can't get good, quick and cheap...I'm ok spending more on grains and hops. I've done the steeping grains in at flame on and remove at 160F method, and I can make that work. But what about adding all or most of my hops as well at flame on...

Re 2...No boil preferably, but I've read that FWH additions can substitute for hop stand additions but not so much for boil additions to achieve bitterness. So, maybe a 5-10 boil with a little bit of Magnum, for example, would get traditional bitterness up? And why not heat water to 155-165F...

For lack of better term I'm calling it a reverse hopstand. What are effects on hop utilization and bitterness profile between: 1. Adding hops to water at boil (95 C at my altitude), immediate flameout, leaving hops in for 25 minutes during cooling (to 75 C), then remove hop bag. 2. Adding hops...

Agreed LME pasteurization will reduce risks, but I am willing to take that risk as I believe it is minimal. Perhaps "required" should have been "as per recipe". Agreed re: steeping time for max efficiency, but for sake of speed I am willing to sacrifice some efficiencies and to increase...

Ok, will check that thread out. So, are you saying if I skipped the "6. bring to boil" step and went from steeping temperatures straight to "9. add all LME" then it work?

In my pursuit of a short efficient brew day, I realized that the time to steep specialty grains and the time that I hopstand are similar, usually 25-30 minutes. So, I was thinking why don't I move my hopstand additions to the steeping period, that is pre-boil, in order to significantly shorten...

Employing basic good sanitation when using a secondary likely will minimize most infection risk. And using a secondary likely will not have negative effects on a beer. Agreed to both. There are many processes out there and one should find the one that works and is personally enjoyable. But...

I had to go overseas once and left an IPA in primary for 4 months...no issues. +1 to no secondary advice above for reasons stated, plus why do unnecessary work?