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Other than the John Guest fittings the flow meters were not designed to be taken apart. I contacted Swissflow about a faulty lead and their support group stated that they cannot be taken apart to fix a broken lead. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Need some help with troubleshooting. I installed Rpints v2.01 w/flow last weekend and hooked up all the flow meters. After playing around with pins for a little while I was able to get the flowmeters to register pours on pins 2, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. I tested the flowmeters/pours by blowing...

Not sure what is going on but a couple of reboots and reinserting the SD Card made the display come alive again. It seems a little flakey so I might have some connection issue somewhere, but for now it is booting up and displying.

I am having a display issue, I did everything through step 8 with no issues. When I hook up the Alamode and the flow meter and power up to start step 9 I get all the boot up lines showing on the display, but when boot up is done I dont get any display on monitor. If I log into the RPi IP...

Thanks for the replays. My system has about 4ft of 3/16" hosed at around 13 psi. My pours are very good and since dispensing pressure is about what gives 2 volumes of carbonation it makes it easy. I will try the flow meters with the current length and see what happens. I can always add more...

Why are the serving lines so long? Are you guys using 1/4" ID lines? I use 3/16" lines and only have a bit over 4 feet of serving lines? Do the flow meters affect the line length? I wouldn't think so but am curious about any real experience out there. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

I have all the parts to upgrade from V1 to v2.01 with flow meters but just havent had a chance to start working on it. It looks like I can work on this next weekend so I hope to be up and running on v2.01 soon. I have been watching the thread and know that some special instructions were...

JonGrafto, you are correct, I went with the EZ202. I was looking at the EZ101 originally and when I spoke to the engineer/support resource they had a couple reasons why it wouldnt work well in my application. I think it was flow rate, temp rise and cutout, and something else that was different...

Propane for me.

Thanks. 180F is the cutoff for mine as well. However, I find it works best (and pretty consistent) when I am In the 165F to 170F range. I agree, it's one of the best additions to the brewery. I believe it saves quite a bit of propane as well but haven't verified. Sent from my iPhone using...

That's a different brand. The key thing is to make sure you know what the max temperature rise is for the unit. Some have temp override sensors that limit it to 50 or 60F over incoming water temp. I spoke with the vendor of my unit to make sure it didn't have a limit. Shoot me a pm if you...

Instant Hot Water Heater. It was a great addition to the brewery, it gets from tap to a few degrees below strike temp. Then I let the burner/PID get it the last couple of degrees.

Here is what I put together about 9 months ago. 3 burners, 3 pumps.

Exactly. I usually get the water from the HWH a couple of degrees below my target and let the propane/PID get it to the final temp. I normally start the strike water the same time I start milling the grains. The water is usually to temp around the same time the milling is done, sometimes...

I wanted to step up to a bigger system and spent a lot of time on Homebrewtalk doing research on what I wanted, learning what has worked for others, what others didnt like about their stands, and picking up general knowledge about gas valves and burners. This forum was a great resource so I...

I use a cheap plastic utility sink out in the garage so I don't have to clean anything in the house. I hooked up a cheap dirty water pump in a old 8G plastic fermenter that goes under the utility sink drain. It has a float so when it get full it discharges via a garden hose to the utility sink...

I was thinking it needed 3 wires, I think I got this project confused with another one. So as long as I can find a minimum 5 pin wiring harness I should be good. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

I have a couple old PC wiring harnesses laying around. Is there any reason I couldn't use one of the four wire connectors to solder in a permanent header to both the STC and the Arduino? That way you just clip it in if you need to flash. And, no cost. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

It was the receiver, I had another wireless keyboard gathering dust and when I put that receiver in the pi it recognized it right away. Just a weird thing, it is on its way back to Amazon.

Rebooted many times and still no luck. Tried repairing the device Fn + F1 and the keyboard flashes like it is trying to connect but nothing happens. Maybe the receiver went bad?