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I just pitched WLP833 for a Mai Bock. I hit target OG in 4 days at 48F. I raised it to 60F for 48 hours before crashing. That worked well for me. It seems this has worked well with a few other brewers +/- a day for primary, and 2-4 days for a d-rest.

I routinely mix yeasts (both ales and lagers), and get great results. I just brewed a May Bock where I mixed German Bock and Munich yeast, and so far so good. I think that the mix between American and Urquell would work well together, so I say go for it. Use both packs for a good pitch. Yes...

I have tried cooking with them before, and feeding them to my goat. The food was terrible, and the goat wouldn't touch the hops. The hops loose all of their yummy oils after just a few minutes, and all you're left with is a tasteless leaf.

Your goal is to get the good sugars locked inside the grain out, and water at the right temp will do just that. I don't think either set of instructions that you have read are the best. I would take the bag, steep them in water at 150F for 40 minutes, and then after that slowly raise the...

In Oregon, cider is classified as a fruit wine. It does not have to be pasteurized at any point during the process. All breweries etc. have to have a food safety licence from the OLCC. To sell hard cider you must have approval from TTB and OLCC. See...

I am brewing my Coffee Porter at this very moment. I have not tried mashing as beans, but I would suspect that it is not the most efficient way, lacking grind, time and temperatures. Anyone else has tried this? Boiling beans yielded very poor results, extremely acrid and bitter. Undrinkable...

Perhaps a cream ale then? If all lagers are out, then that just leaves hybrids, like steam, cream and kolsch. You have any suggestions oneandahalf?

Bock or Double Bock?

I add whole beans in a nylon bag during my secondary fermentation (~55 deg F), and let them sit for about 4 to 5 days, or until the coffee aroma and flavor are to taste. That method works well for me. I have a friend who does a Coffee Pale Ale, and does the French press method as you...

You can add the tea, but I generally don't. I'd boil it real quick to de-aerate it. Usually I just add more lemon grass (or whatever) to make up for some lost flavor.

Theoretically a 40A SSR should be sufficient for your element (5500W), on 220VAC. (Watts = Volts x Amps; 40x220 = 8800 Watts). However, I noticed on the amazon link you posted, the reviewer had trouble with the SSR after just a few months. Might want to look for a better quality unit.

Nope, no problem at all.

I'd cut up some lemon grass, put it in a nylon bag, and simmer it in water at 180 deg F for 5 minutes (to sanitize), cool it, and drop in your keg. Let that sit for a few days, and see where you're flavor is at. If you're not happy with where the beer is at now, there is not much to loose.

I've currently got my unmilled grains stored in a room that is hovering around 27 C. They have been sitting there over two months now, and I have not had any problems with them going rancid. My room is pretty dry though, very low humidity where I'm at, which is probably the key. So, if it's...

Your grain bill looks good, but I'd drop the Simcoe hop addition, and bump up your Magnum some to match your IBU. The Simcoe is going to be lost by the vanilla. Pacman is a good yeast for this recipe. When I make my Vanilla stout, I cut my beans open, put them in a nylon bag and weigh the bag...

Yes, there are some people that re purpose their previous batch of yeast as a nutrient. It's generally dumped in at the beginning of the boil. Yeast itself contains many vitamins and minerals, and the boil will break most of these down for the next generation of yeast to feed off. However...

In the past I have used honey malt and crystal 40, and yielded good results. At 10% of your bill, I don't think it will be too sweet. Generally, if you add more crystal and honey malts, you'll want to balance it with more hops. I would think for 10% 30 IBUs would yield a nice balance.

I've used as much as 25% of Honey Malt before, but generally found that 5% yields a light honey flavor, 10% a medium flavor, and >15% strong and needs to be balanced with other malts. I think you've got a good balance. Hope that helps.

I have made Red Ales with both S-04 and 05. 05 generally has fewer esters, but you can pull a few more out at a higher ferment temp (around 73 deg F) if that's what you are looking for. 05 flocs better than 04, yielding better clarity, and I find it attenuates better as well.

Needle valves are best for controlling flames on your burner. Ball valves will work too, though you get a little better precision control from a needle valve.