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Yep, I use mine every brew and I brew nearly every week (46 - 50 batches/yr). I also harvest a lot of yeast so it helps to keep the cake cleaner. I had mine made at Arbor-Fab, 8" diameter, 15" H, 300 micron, $100. I got 8" to give the hops a slightly bigger swimming pool and I also leave a...

Pretty much my practice and experience as well. 300u, 8" spider from A-Fab, no issues with getting enough bitterness/flavor.

This is one of those things that I keep meaning to try but never remember. I'm not sure, but I wouldn't be surprised if there was enough of some type of sugar in tomato juice to kick off some fermentation at room temperature, so you may want to make sure you keep the mix cold. Probably not a...

I would also look into the Brew-Boss kettles. Good quality and reasonable price for what you get, excellent customer service as well. http://www.brew-boss.com/category-s/133.htm

I have a Lenovo 10" tablet that use only for brewing and the Tilt, it still has all the stock apps on it. I calibrate my Tilt near the end of the boil and regularly switch between the Brew-Boss and Tilt apps. The Brew-Boss app simply updates the remaining time in the boil when I switch back. I...

I have noticed the same trend with lower predicted pH than the previous version and I do full volume BIAB as well. One of the listed improvements for this version is, "calculations for thin mashes are improved" so I'm guessing it has something to do with this.

I kegged this back on 7/5, ambient temp beer racked onto the watermelon concentrate, then straight to my conditioning keezer @34F. I did try a sample 24hrs later and there was no extra sweetness at all and as I mentioned before the concentrate was super-sweet. Great beer, could use a tad more...

I always post THIS when this particular question comes up. It's helped me when trying to get north of 1.070, which isn't very often. Bottom line, do a longer boil so you can use more liquor in the mash/sparge to get all the sugars out of the larger grain bill.

I'll have to double check when I get home, but I believe it is the 50A Eaton panel available from Lowes or HD.

I started doing 30 min boils earlier this year and backed off to 45 mins just to give myself a little extra time and I always have everything measured out and ready to go. 30 mins goes quick :D I also do not fear DMS, never an issue even with an all pils grist...

You can get the kettle from Brew-Boss ($195) then have Arbor-Fab make a 500u basket ($170) for it, been using that setup for a few years now...

If you have determined that 30A is sufficient for your current system you can use a 30A breaker to supply a 50A spa panel. In this case the spa panel is being used for GFCI protection only and the 30A breaker in your main panel is protecting the wiring and spa panel from overload conditions...

OP reports that this recipe is not sweet, although it is not clear if he let the keg sit at room temp for some period of time or if it went straight to the keezer. My regular Gose is not over the top sour, but I definitely don't want sweet/sour. Time will tell...

Very interesting, like you said it sounds like a useful technique for many different things. FWIW, I just had a taste of the "second runnings" and it's definitely a concentrate and extremely sweet...

So to be clear, after freezing the 1/2 gal of juice you keep the first quart that melts off and repeat, correct? I ask because I just completed the first melt and what I collected looks pale and somewhat watery compared to what was left in the milk jug. I haven't tasted it though, so perhaps it...

^^^This, been doing it for years. The boiling is good advice but I have never done it and go at least 8 generations with most yeasts. It's also said that the yeast adapt to your brewhouse with successive generations and they also become more adept at converting other types of sugars in the wort.

Lager for sure. Drinkin' a Pils right now, clean, crisp, no esters, just a tiny bit of sulfur/mineral in the nose. I use it anywhere I want a nice clean yeast, used to do it with 34/70, but I like the OYL-114 a bit better, floccs better as well...

My understanding is that OYL-114 is supposed to be the Augustiner strain similar to Wyeast 2352 Munich II. That being said the OYL-114 is now one of my house strains, I use it for both ale and lager recipes fermented at 65F. Makes a great beer...

I have gotten carbon on the element on several occasions, but only 1/2" - 3/4" max, near the end closest to the kettle. Last weekend I got about 3/8" with a 53% wheat grist. Never affects the taste. There is often a tan coating on the element which scrubs right off.

Mostly to keep the recirculation going and keeping the wort level even between the inside and outside of the basket, although I suppose it helps with efficiency as well, I'm usually in the 70% - 72% range for brewhouse. I'm generally an avid manual reader, but I don't recall seeing the bit...