RIMS for Dummies

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If I wanted to do stepped mashes? Wouldn't i need a beefier heating element to do temperature ramps quickly? What about wort scorch!!!!!! HELP IM BUYING STUFF THIS WEEKEND!!!
 
i've seen guys using heat tape wrapped around the RIMs tube. heat tape can be bought at plumbing supply stores they use them to wrap backflow preventors to keep them from freezing.

-=Jason=-
 
In my experience, if you use an ultra low density element and circulate the wort at decent rate then scorched wort is a low risk. How fast you can circulate has a lot to do with your MLT design (grain filter method, MLT geometry, etc).

The ramp time will depends on the power of your element and circulation rate, but also on your batch size and the how much heat your system looses. Insulating the MLT and RIMs will definitely help. Insulating the hoses might also be beneficial.

I have not tried to optimize my system for step mashing, so I can't speak to the best design. But I do step from the sac rest in the low 150s to 168 for a mash out. It usually takes me about 10min for a 5 gallon batch.
 
Ok So I'm planning a RIMS build at the beginning of the year....maybe a little earlier, so I'm trying to get an idea of what I might need to put it together myself or just buy one. I took all the part numbers from the 1st post at Murray Equipment and entered them into the cart to get a total and this is what I've got. Mind you, none of the electrical panel stuff is in there of course and I've put the SS valve in the cart, but honestly I could just use 1 of the brass ones I've got laying around to save $20.



S4N2X10 $21.18 (2"x10" SS Nipple)
S4B2X1/2 (x3) $28.11 (2" x 1/2 SS HEX bushing)
S4T2 (x2) $36.16 (2" SS Tee)
S4B2X1 $9.37 (2" x 1" SS HEX bushing)
INL1/2SSLL $17.40 (1/2" SS Ball Valve)

Total $112.22

Has there been anyone else out there that has gone this route and can comment or give advice of some nuances about building this? Tricks learned? While the bought RIMS tube runs almost $40 more expensive than this, can I expect any issues going the DIY route? I do love a good home made brew toy.

Thank
 
rgauthier20420 said:
Ok So I'm planning a RIMS build at the beginning of the year....maybe a little earlier, so I'm trying to get an idea of what I might need to put it together myself or just buy one. I took all the part numbers from the 1st post at Murray Equipment and entered them into the cart to get a total and this is what I've got. Mind you, none of the electrical panel stuff is in there of course and I've put the SS valve in the cart, but honestly I could just use 1 of the brass ones I've got laying around to save $20.



S4N2X10 $21.18 (2"x10" SS Nipple)
S4B2X1/2 (x3) $28.11 (2" x 1/2 SS HEX bushing)
S4T2 (x2) $36.16 (2" SS Tee)
S4B2X1 $9.37 (2" x 1" SS HEX bushing)
INL1/2SSLL $17.40 (1/2" SS Ball Valve)

Total $112.22

Has there been anyone else out there that has gone this route and can comment or give advice of some nuances about building this? Tricks learned? While the bought RIMS tube runs almost $40 more expensive than this, can I expect any issues going the DIY route? I do love a good home made brew toy.

Thank
Click to expand...

I see you chose the 2" pipe size. I've used the 1 1/2" pipe and had good success. I think the parts are cheaper as well.

Though I purchased back in 2010 and I'm sure there's price creep. Here's my purchase from then:

Item Number Description Qty Price Extension
-------------- ------------------------------ ------- ------- ----------
S4C ROS11/2 11/2 CROSS 304SS 1 15.00 .00
S4T 11/2 11/2 TEE 304SS 1 10.55 15.00
S4B 1X1/4 1 X 1/4 HEX BUSHING 304SS 1 2.15 10.55
S4B 11/2X1/2 11/2 X 1/2 HEX BUSHING 304SS 3 4.60 2.15
S4B 11/2X1 11/2 X 1 HEX BUSHING 304SS 2 4.60 13.80
S4N 11/2X8 1 1/2 X 8 SCH40 NIP 304SS 1 14.48 9.20
DIX TN34 NYLON 3/8"HOSE X 1/2"NPT 2 .50 14.48
MEI WEBDISC ONLINE ORDER DISCOUNT 1- 1.32 1.00
Order Totals 64.86

I also used a cross on one end instead of a tee so I could easily dump the contents.
 
rgauthier20420 said:
Ok So I'm planning a RIMS build at the beginning of the year....maybe a little earlier, so I'm trying to get an idea of what I might need to put it together myself or just buy one. I took all the part numbers from the 1st post at Murray Equipment and entered them into the cart to get a total and this is what I've got. Mind you, none of the electrical panel stuff is in there of course and I've put the SS valve in the cart, but honestly I could just use 1 of the brass ones I've got laying around to save $20.



S4N2X10 $21.18 (2"x10" SS Nipple)
S4B2X1/2 (x3) $28.11 (2" x 1/2 SS HEX bushing)
S4T2 (x2) $36.16 (2" SS Tee)
S4B2X1 $9.37 (2" x 1" SS HEX bushing)
INL1/2SSLL $17.40 (1/2" SS Ball Valve)

Total $112.22

Has there been anyone else out there that has gone this route and can comment or give advice of some nuances about building this? Tricks learned? While the bought RIMS tube runs almost $40 more expensive than this, can I expect any issues going the DIY route? I do love a good home made brew toy.

Thank
Click to expand...

I would get the tri clover tube from Brewer's hardware or Glacer. If I had to go back I would also get a cross end as stlbeer suggests. Although the tri clover fittings made it pretty easy do dump and clean everything, dumping would be made even easier by using a cross tee.
 
stlbeer said:
I see you chose the 2" pipe size. I've used the 1 1/2" pipe and had good success. I think the parts are cheaper as well.

Though I purchased back in 2010 and I'm sure there's price creep. Here's my purchase from then:

Item Number Description Qty Price Extension
-------------- ------------------------------ ------- ------- ----------
S4C ROS11/2 11/2 CROSS 304SS 1 15.00 .00
S4T 11/2 11/2 TEE 304SS 1 10.55 15.00
S4B 1X1/4 1 X 1/4 HEX BUSHING 304SS 1 2.15 10.55
S4B 11/2X1/2 11/2 X 1/2 HEX BUSHING 304SS 3 4.60 2.15
S4B 11/2X1 11/2 X 1 HEX BUSHING 304SS 2 4.60 13.80
S4N 11/2X8 1 1/2 X 8 SCH40 NIP 304SS 1 14.48 9.20
DIX TN34 NYLON 3/8"HOSE X 1/2"NPT 2 .50 14.48
MEI WEBDISC ONLINE ORDER DISCOUNT 1- 1.32 1.00
Order Totals 64.86

I also used a cross on one end instead of a tee so I could easily dump the contents.
Click to expand...

I simply used the same item numbers that were in the 1st post. I notice that most of the RIMS tubes are using 1 1/2in diameter housings so I wouldn't be opposed to it. Also, like you said, it would be considerably cheaper. Could you post a few pictures of your set up? A cross fittings instead of the Tee sounds intriguing, but I'd like to see how you have it set up. Maybe pictures showing before and after removing for cleaning.

I know the tri-clamps are easier all around, but again, I'm not at all against removing a bushing or cap to dump the contents after each brew to save such a large amount of money. My tool kit usually sits next to my brew stand while brewing anyway, so I'm looking at undoing a tri-clamp or a couple turns of the wrench.

Thanks for your help!
 
Hey all

First time poster long time brewer, electrical doofus. Trying to switch to electricity in my garage and have a 20 amp 240 volt outlet available to me. I am wondering if the ebrew supplies 30a one element and PID kit can be made appropriate just by installing a 4500 watt element instead of the 5500 that it is designed for? Thanks.

Read the entire thread once. Will start over and keep learning.
 
Hi all. I'm looking for some help wiring my basic basic RIMS tube cooler MLT. I believe I have all the correct parts but I'm looking for some opinions on how to wire up the system. Here is a list and pic of my parts:



Cooler MLT w/false bottom

SS Chugger pump w/SS ball valve

1.5" SS tri-clover RIMS tube

Camco 1500W 120v heating element

4" temp probe

Auber 2352 PID

Auber 25A SSR

Heat sink to be mounted outside box

2 120V lighted switches (pump & element)

2 outlets for pump and element

1 LED indicator for element power



I plan on running the system off a standard 110 GFCI. Any direction/criticism will help. I'm just beginning. Thanks. ImageUploadedByHome Brew1389198449.571107.jpg
 
briord1 said:
Hi all. I'm looking for some help wiring my basic basic RIMS tube cooler MLT. I believe I have all the correct parts but I'm looking for some opinions on how to wire up the system. Here is a list and pic of my parts:



Cooler MLT w/false bottom

SS Chugger pump w/SS ball valve

1.5" SS tri-clover RIMS tube

Camco 1500W 120v heating element

4" temp probe

Auber 2352 PID

Auber 25A SSR

Heat sink to be mounted outside box

2 120V lighted switches (pump & element)

2 outlets for pump and element

1 LED indicator for element power



I plan on running the system off a standard 110 GFCI. Any direction/criticism will help. I'm just beginning. Thanks.View attachment 170935
Click to expand...


Did you get everything set up and working? Curious about the heatsink being mounted on the outside of the panel.
 
OCHawgy said:
Did you get everything set up and working? Curious about the heatsink being mounted on the outside of the panel.
Click to expand...


I did get everything hooked up and ran a test with water. Just gotta get a recipe together and pick a day! I will post some photos when I can.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
What is the consensus for capping the heating element side of the RIMS tube? I have seen PVC suggested, but is that the best option? If PVC, what is the best way to affix the cap to the tube? This is the last portion of my build before I am able to fire the RIMS tube up.

I've tried to find in this thread the answer to the question, but had no luck on the search. thanks in advance for the help.
 
exe said:
What is the consensus for capping the heating element side of the RIMS tube? I have seen PVC suggested, but is that the best option? If PVC, what is the best way to affix the cap to the tube? This is the last portion of my build before I am able to fire the RIMS tube up.



I've tried to find in this thread the answer to the question, but had no luck on the search. thanks in advance for the help.
Click to expand...


I used a fabricated SS water tight unit sold by Brew and Grow in Chicago. It wasn't cheap (about $70) but it's very nice and has a tri-clover fitting for attaching to the RIMS tube. I have seen them a few other places as well. Worth the $ in my opinion. It's pretty much plug an play. Also check out the tri-clover RIMS tube. I bought that too ($99). Also a very nice piece. Hope that helps.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
exe said:
Thanks - I just ordered the $24 piece you mentioned, this is exactly what I was looking for.

Sometimes coming up with the right google keywords to search is a challenge :)
Click to expand...

Glad to be of help! If I knew that was there when I put my enclosure together I would have done the same thing. Ohwell....enjoy :D
 
misled_drummer said:
PVC Cap picture:

null_zps16d1cc29.jpg
Click to expand...


BTW, I don't think I ever responded to this a few pages back. I managed to figure out the wiring of the RTD and installed the PVC cap.

I have successfully brewed at least 5 times since putting everything together. I want to thank all of you guys for all your help. Could not have done it without you.
 
I wanted to post my adaption of my rims tube for y'all to see. It's the usual design using 1.5" pipe, 2 tees, and bushings that reduce down to .5" for the wort connections. I changed the connections for the thermometer and the element to tri clamp for ease of cleaning and the ability to move the thermometer to my plate chiller when done. Comments are welcome.

20140222_165103.jpg
 
well after spending the last 5 days reading all 1299 posts. i'm sold on rims. just ordered the stout tank tube. ( glacier was out of 3 of the parts) this also will allow me to upgrade my brew system in the future, with out having to worry if the rims will handle the bigger volume.. now to try and hide the cc bill from SWMBO

i do have one question.. how well would the little solar pumps work on this?
 
Fractional said:
well after spending the last 5 days reading all 1299 posts. i'm sold on rims. just ordered the stout tank tube. ( glacier was out of 3 of the parts) this also will allow me to upgrade my brew system in the future, with out having to worry if the rims will handle the bigger volume.. now to try and hide the cc bill from SWMBO

i do have one question.. how well would the little solar pumps work on this?
Click to expand...

I use this pump while circulating 100% of the time and it works like a charm. I keep it on full blast and I have a Tee and 2 90 degree elbows at the end of the return line back into the MT to slow down flow. It works great.
 
I am beginning to put together my own RIMS build and I had a question about the best way to prevent rust on the heating element base. I've seen some recommend food-grade silicone on the base. How thick should this be? Will the element burn this material? What about silver solder?
 
kmllr315 said:
I am beginning to put together my own RIMS build and I had a question about the best way to prevent rust on the heating element base. I've seen some recommend food-grade silicone on the base. How thick should this be? Will the element burn this material? What about silver solder?
Click to expand...

A light coating is all you need and I believe silicone melts at like 500+ degrees so no issues there.
 
You just need a thin coat on the base. Don't get it on the element and it won't be an issue.
 
Cool, would you suggest taping off the elements near the base to prevent silicone from getting on them? Or do you just eyeball it?
 
I've been reading the 131 pages of this thread over the last 6 months on and off with great enthusiasm. Having said that, its quite possible my questions have been answered already and I just missed the posts.

I'm starting to build my RIMS system now, just in the process of converting a keg to a keggle mash tun. I'm planning on using a 120v element (ULWD if I can find one). I have two questions.

1. Whats the magic flow rate to use the RIMS to have a relatively fast mashout with a 120v element without risking scortching the wort? Generally I don't brew heavier than normal beers, but am planning on brewing 10 Gal batches so there's going to be a fair amount of wort to mash out.

2. After mash out, when transferring the wort to the boil kettle, it would seem to me there would be some valuable wort left in the RIMS tube and associated plumbing. I was planning to use the same pump to transfer and power the RIMS by using a 3 way ball valve. Is there an easy way to plumb in a way to recover that wort or do most people just write it off as waste? I know that relatively its not much lost, but it offends my sense of efficiency!
 
Oh Noooo.... Don't write off that wort. I put a T fitting on the end with the heater element and out of the bottom of the Tee I put a ball valve to drain the wort when needed. (top is wort in, left is connected to the rims, right is the heating element, bottom is ball valve) I find that when I first start it up some of the particles from the mash collect in the tee and I drain a bit off and return to the mash.
 
I run my sparge water through the RIMS tube and pump the MLT output directly into the boil kettle. That way the RIMS tube has only water in it when finished, and is partially cleaned out.

Make a ULWD element by using a 5500 watt 240 volt ULWD element at 120 volts, you get 1375 watts with an almost negligible watt density. Requires a longer RIMS tube, but so what?
 
ChuckO said:
I run my sparge water through the RIMS tube and pump the MLT output directly into the boil kettle. That way the RIMS tube has only water in it when finished, and is partially cleaned out.

Make a ULWD element by using a 5500 watt 240 volt ULWD element at 120 volts, you get 1375 watts with an almost negligible watt density. Requires a longer RIMS tube, but so what?
Click to expand...

Running the sparge water through the RIMS is genius, thanks for the idea!
 
I am working on my pid control box. Should I go with a ground fault or a regular outlet to the pump and heater? The control box itself should be plugged into a ground fault anyway most of the time. I was thinking that in those rare instances I take the unit somewhere and a ground fault plug isn't available... Is there a way to protect the pid/ssr internally as well?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Anything electric needs to be on a gfic. All the time not just mostly. The point of gfic is not to protect your electronics but to stand between you and a really bad day.

I see you are a married guy and somehow your post ended up being #1313. Too much for me to just sit back and read. So I am just sayin.... And maybe you know and I misread, which happens.

I got a gfic adapter off amazon for real cheap. Basically plugs into the wall and then you plug your control box into that. Just search gfic. Brand I got was yellow jacket I think.

While I am at it. Just want to add that gfci is not the same as a surge protector/power strip. I think I've read a few posts that seem to replace one for the other. You want gfci protection.

Ok. I am done.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
I guess what I'm really asking is, is there a problem with having two ground fault outlets in the same circuit? Say I plug my pid control box into one and then have my outgoing power through another...


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Having two GFCIs in series isn't needed, but also won't affect the protection factor either. You're good to go with one or fifty GFCIs.
 
I'm pricing out the materials for this project, have been able to find all the stainless on amazon:

Stainless Steel 304/304L Pipe Fitting, Nipple, Schedule 40 Welded, 1-1/2" X 6" NPT Male http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JQJNGY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Stainless Steel 304 Cast Pipe Fitting, Tee, Class 150, 1-1/2" NPT Female http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSKXIC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Stainless Steel 304 Cast Pipe Fitting, Hex Bushing, Class 150, 1-1/2" NPT Male X 1/2" NPT Female http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSKZD0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Stainless Steel 304 Cast Pipe Fitting, Hex Bushing, Class 150, 1-1/2" NPT Male X 1" NPT Female http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSKZDU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Stainless Steel 304 Cast Pipe Fitting, Cross, Class 150, 1-1/2" NPT Female (1 of these instead of one tee fitting) http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSKXPU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

So far for just these parts the total is coming out to just $55.80, cheaper than I would have thought! The last item, the cross fitting, clearly has CHINA stamped on it. Should I be worried about lead or anything else?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So a lot of posts here advocate the triclover setup for ease of disassembly and cleaning. I'v spoken with another brewer who simply recirculates PBW to clean in place after each brew with periodic disassembly for scrubbing, he hasn't noticed any build up or nasties to speak of.

I'm curious, does anyone else here just do CIP or do you feel disassembly is necessary after each use?
 

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