Questions about March Pumps answered by the Factory!

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michaeltrego said:
The 809-HS is rated to draw 1.4 amps according to the specs. Is that the maximum or continuous duty? What size fuse would you recommend when the pump is connected through a switch in a control panel? I want to ensure that I size the fuse to accommodate maximum startup draw. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Most times you can spec them at 2x working amps....depending on what the load on the motor is....but for our motors a 5 amp fuse is plenty :)
 
WalterAtMarchPump said:
Sorry for the late reply...i was off all last week.
That motor is still available if you want it.
But to answer your questions:
it spins CW if looking at the shaft side.....and CCW if you are looking at the back of the motor at the fan blades.
And the shaft is 1/4"
Click to expand...

hey, how much for a motor? Looking at options. Probably just get a new pump. I gotta imagine a motor is in new pump territory $$$?
 
List price for the motor is $115...but we dont sell direct so you would have to call a distributor to get a price....and they "usually" sell for less then list price.
 
Are the motors in your stainless head pumps rated for use with a vfd? I know most motors can handle it but if they are not technically designed for it you will drastically shorten their lifespan
 
VFD use is generally used for 3phase motors. And yes all of our 3 phase motors are rated for VFD use...they can go down to 10:1
I'm not aware of any true VFD's for single phase......if you wanted to run one down you would need something more inline with a system that uses PWM (Pulse Width Modulation)
 
WalterAtMarchPump said:
List price for the motor is $115...but we dont sell direct so you would have to call a distributor to get a price....and they "usually" sell for less then list price.
Click to expand...

Was at Home Depot today and noticed that Lasco sells a motor attached to a 24" fan blade and they sell the whole box fan for $15.

Can I just hook my pump head up to a fan motor?
 
My scenario:
The impeller intermittently freezes. I unplug the pump & must wait until rotor comes to a complete halt. Plug the pump back in and it works fine-for a couple of minutes then the impeller comes to a halt again and have to repeat the process.

The valves feeding the pump are wide open & the outflow valve is barely cracked. Any reasons why the pump head-impeller constantly freezes?


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Pumping from kettle mash tun to boil kettle. The pump head is oriented horizontal. This also happens during whirlpool so there is plenty of wort flow into the pump. This isn't cavitation but a sudden freezing of the impeller


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You can bore out the impeller which helps with swelling. Search "drill" on this thread
 
grathan said:
Was at Home Depot today and noticed that Lasco sells a motor attached to a 24" fan blade and they sell the whole box fan for $15.

Can I just hook my pump head up to a fan motor?
Click to expand...

If it has all the same mounting holes and shaft size as the original motor i cant see why not...
 
photogscott said:
My scenario:
The impeller intermittently freezes. I unplug the pump & must wait until rotor comes to a complete halt. Plug the pump back in and it works fine-for a couple of minutes then the impeller comes to a halt again and have to repeat the process.

The valves feeding the pump are wide open & the outflow valve is barely cracked. Any reasons why the pump head-impeller constantly freezes?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
Click to expand...

I sounds like the mag drive is de-coupling....meaning the magnets are loosing their alignment and once they slip you need to turn the power off and let it come to a near standstill before the magnets catch again. Couple things may be causing it......the thrust washer is worn out, or the fluid is too thick (we can pump light weight vegetable oils but not much heavier then that)....or another possibility is that you have too big an outlet line on the discharge of the pump.....if you using a 3/4line try choking it off a little bit and see if that helps.....and worse case is the magnets may not have been fully magnetized....if you want to send it back we can go through it for you and verify it all works as it should....
 
Lines in and out of the pump are 1/2". And the outlet is always choked back. The fluid (wort) is not viscous. I'd like to do something short of returning the pump to fix this issue. So are we looking at possibly a worn out washer?


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Possibly...hard to say without taking the pump apart and inspecting. If you have never taken the pump apart, the only screws to take off are the phillips heads that go through the pump head.....then once that comes off you will see 4 flat head screws under the pump on the backside....you take those out to open the pump up. The impeller should spin freely on the shaft. Then remove the impeller and check for the white Teflon thrust washer. It sits on the shaft between the impeller and the pump housing. It may have worn out.
If the impeller doesn't spin freely, you may have some sugar build up on the inside bore of it....soak it overnight in some soapy water and wash it out with a small plastic wire brush.....or you can drill the impeller opening larger with a 17/64" drill bit to open the clearances to help keep the bore cleaner during clean out.
Is none of that helps then i would send it back to us here and let us check out the alignment of the magnets...and the magnet strength.
 
Walter,
Thanks for your help. Comparing good and bad pumps, I see the white washer has either totally disintegrated or was never put on in the first place. So how do I order replacement washers? I'd like more than one because they seem thin and fragile.

I have put several hours of running this pump not knowing there was no tiny washer in the head. I hope the pump isn't damaged

Thanks again,
Scott
 
Scott check your PM

But the washer can wear out over time...and ordering replacement washer you can get them from any one of our distributors....some people have changed them out to a stainless washer...just need to find a thin one with a 1/4" ID hole :)
 
Nothing that has been reported back to me by anyone that's done it. :)
if you have a lot of restriction on the inlet side of the pump you could wear out the front of the impeller.....since that would now be the softer material....but you would really need to be chocking the inlet side bad for the impeller to be sucked up against it that hard.
 
WalterAtMarchPump said:
Nothing that has been reported back to me by anyone that's done it. :)
if you have a lot of restriction on the inlet side of the pump you could wear out the front of the impeller.....since that would now be the softer material....but you would really need to be chocking the inlet side bad for the impeller to be sucked up against it that hard.
Click to expand...

Do you guys offer a ceramic washer as a replacement?
 
Hey Walter! Apparently I haven't learned how to properly hold stuff and let the impeller of a brand new 815-SS fall to the ground causing some small dents in it.

X5VEAIf.jpg

GOMGPcZ.jpg


The pump seems to be working fine, but will this cause any problems? Should I replace the impeller?

Thanks!
 
With so many posts it is hard to find an answer in here so I am going to do the unthinkable and be painfully redundant with what many others have said. I have been fighting problems with my March Pump losing prime during my sparge. I switched the orientation of the head so inlet is down and the outlet is up. I have brass QC on everything and 1/2" silicone tube. I have heard that quick connects are notorious for leaking or sucking air. Can anyone recommend what a good QC would be to help with this? Supper frustrating so I would like to get it resolved. Thanks!
 
I have been using the QF8 series Swagelok QD's for years without issues. They are incredibly expensive, but they are worth every penny.

I have one on my water hose and I leave the hose on all the time and it never leaks. I have them on my March pumps, and I never lose prime. The o-rings wear out in time, but they are replaceable. They also have 10 balls, which are far more secure than the 4 ball ones MoreBeer sells.

Swagelok stuff is meant for ultra high pressure corrosive industrial plant environments. It is overkill in most cases, but the stuff is built to last.
 
Camlock are good too because you can tell how good the seal is when you connect based on the resistance in the ears.
 
Walter,

I have a March 802 that I want to use for a recirculation pump on the CIP/keg washer I'm going to build. But It have a cracked head housing? ( think thats the write terminology), Any way, I'm attaching a picture , it is the black portion between the head and the motor.

Can you tell me the part #. I thought I had the right # but when I ordered a replacement part the ones I got where the wrong ones.

Thanks
Bryan
IMG_3315.jpg
 
vitords said:
Hey Walter! Apparently I haven't learned how to properly hold stuff and let the impeller of a brand new 815-SS fall to the ground causing some small dents in it.

X5VEAIf.jpg

GOMGPcZ.jpg


The pump seems to be working fine, but will this cause any problems? Should I replace the impeller?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

You wont have any problems with those dents in the impeller.... :)
 
Bsquared said:
Walter,

I have a March 802 that I want to use for a recirculation pump on the CIP/keg washer I'm going to build. But It have a cracked head housing? ( think thats the write terminology), Any way, I'm attaching a picture , it is the black portion between the head and the motor.

Can you tell me the part #. I thought I had the right # but when I ordered a replacement part the ones I got where the wrong ones.

Thanks
Bryan
View attachment 208124
Click to expand...

Just to be sure which part your talking about.....do you need the motor bracket that has the studs sticking out of it and is about 2" wide. ( part# 0130-0017-0100)
Or do you need the rear housing that holds the impeller. Thin black plastic part that looks like a top hat (part# 0802-0043-1000)
 
Walter-
Just had a bit of boil over onto my March 809. Pump was dripping wort off it. I put a fan on it and cleaned up what I could. Pump seems to be running fine for now. Is there a way to take apart and clean it internally? Is the pump going to die on me early?
 
Hi Walter. Looking for a bit of information on the NPSHr for your beer pumps. On you website and a few docs you guys state that when pumping near boiling wort it is important to check the NPSHa is more than the NPSHr (and a general doc states this should always be NPSHa > 120% NPSHr). But I can't find any details on the NPSHr for the general homebrew pumps, 809, 809HS, 815.
 
On these little pumps its not as critical as their bigger cousins. For the most part on the 809/815 pump as long as you have it flooded you are good.......when pumping at boiling temps the easiest thing you can do is choke the outlet so the liquid coming into the pump slows down and that gives the air bubbles more of a chance to escape before being sucked into the pump. Or just cut the flame...wait about a minute for the bubbling to die and start the pump....you wont loose much heat from the liquid and the bubbles wont be an issue :)
 
mattrennert said:
Walter-
Just had a bit of boil over onto my March 809. Pump was dripping wort off it. I put a fan on it and cleaned up what I could. Pump seems to be running fine for now. Is there a way to take apart and clean it internally? Is the pump going to die on me early?
Click to expand...

If you got the motor all wet i would go and get some electrical contact cleaner from places like radio shack and spray it down.....at the very least oil the sleeve bearings with some 3-in-1 oil. Look on the white label for the arrows pointing to the end caps of the motor and it says "OIL" between them....there you will see a small hole on the end cap and a channel leading down to the bearing.
 
Hi Walter,
I'm in the process of building a large Brutus like system and saw the H325 pump in a recent Morebeer catalog. Can you set me up with a part number for an H325 with the largest impeller you have (not sure if you have a small and large impeller like the 809/815 had), an SS center inlet head and a 6 foot cord?

Thanks for your time.
 
Pump question, Walter:
Pump has approx. 40-50 hours on it, I would guesstimate.
The motor began to act like a motor, that had a capacitor going bad, ( does it have one?), in that it would hum and slowly turn in a "notchy" fashion, and then finally start.
Sometime it would start normally when plugged in.
Rotor spins freely, and it has been oiled all of it's adult life.
Troubleshooting was done with the pumping element removed from housing.
Model # 809 H S.
Ser.# VV174009

Any pointers, Sir?

Is it possibly "through dealing", and time for a new one?

Thanks for your help, and sharing your knowledge with the board!
 
Stealthcruiser said:
Pump question, Walter:
Pump has approx. 40-50 hours on it, I would guesstimate.
The motor began to act like a motor, that had a capacitor going bad, ( does it have one?), in that it would hum and slowly turn in a "notchy" fashion, and then finally start.
Sometime it would start normally when plugged in.
Rotor spins freely, and it has been oiled all of it's adult life.
Troubleshooting was done with the pumping element removed from housing.
Model # 809 H S.
Ser.# VV174009

Any pointers, Sir?

Is it possibly "through dealing", and time for a new one?

Thanks for your help, and sharing your knowledge with the board!
Click to expand...

It "sounds" like the motor may have been hit or something dropped on it maybe tweaking the alignment of the rotor out of spec.....either that or the bearing on one end of the shaft is going bad....but that's very rare unless there's a TON of hours on the motor. Look at the body of the motor for any dents/dings.....or the endcap for the cover to be pushed in on any section. Ive had some good luck tapping them back out and getting them working again in the past.
 
Irrenarzt said:
Hi Walter,
I'm in the process of building a large Brutus like system and saw the H325 pump in a recent Morebeer catalog. Can you set me up with a part number for an H325 with the largest impeller you have (not sure if you have a small and large impeller like the 809/815 had), an SS center inlet head and a 6 foot cord?

Thanks for your time.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the late reply...i never got any notification there was a new massage here till today..
Anyway you'd want to ask for the 815-SS-C beer pump and you'd get exactly what your asking for above :)
our internal part number here would be 0809-0196-0900
 
WalterAtMarchPump said:
It "sounds" like the motor may have been hit or something dropped on it maybe tweaking the alignment of the rotor out of spec.....either that or the bearing on one end of the shaft is going bad....but that's very rare unless there's a TON of hours on the motor. Look at the body of the motor for any dents/dings.....or the endcap for the cover to be pushed in on any section. Ive had some good luck tapping them back out and getting them working again in the past.
Click to expand...


Will look closer, as I noticed no dents on the motor body.

As mentioned, she spins freely, but I'll have another look.

Thanks for your prompt response!
 
Any more input there, Walter?
The case looks pristine, and no accumulation of wort within.

I don't remember exactly when I got it, can you tell it's age by the serial #, ( above), perhaps?
 

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