My Electric Brewery

[HumulusHead]

OH!!! And scratch the RO water system idea.

Just got in contact with the City Water Plant Superintendent. He is going to be sending me weekly water reports every Friday! I guess he already has a list of people that he sends this out to every Friday. He sent me an excel file for the weekly tests they have taken for the past 11 years! Pretty sweet! After looking at the excel file and finally learning how to correctly use Bru N Water, I have decided that the city water is just fine to brew with.

Now instead of buying DI water, adding CaCl2, adding epsom salt, adding baking soda, adding acid, etc I can just add a small amount of CaCl2, add a small amount of Acid, and a campden tablet (first and foremost) to get rid of the chloramines, and I should be good!

Its obviously a little more technical than that, but just relaying that I can use less additions and less of each addition. And not have to buy 10 gallons of DI water. So pumped!

I am going to brew an APA on Sunday to highlight Belma hops, and will be using City Water again! All in my new keggle!! Going to be an exciting brew day

 

[augiedoggy]

How about this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251281000159?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT it has Fahrenheit readout and will work with the $6 pt100 rtd sensors... I have one I'm going to use in a build I am doing for someone.
if you dont mind celcius there are more options. personally I just use a manual dial thermometer in the tee at the base of my MLT....from bargain fittings.

 

[augiedoggy]

OH!!! And scratch the RO water system idea.

Just got in contact with the City Water Plant Superintendent. He is going to be sending me weekly water reports every Friday! I guess he already has a list of people that he sends this out to every Friday. He sent me an excel file for the weekly tests they have taken for the past 11 years! Pretty sweet! After looking at the excel file and finally learning how to correctly use Bru N Water, I have decided that the city water is just fine to brew with.

Now instead of buying DI water, adding CaCl2, adding epsom salt, adding baking soda, adding acid, etc I can just add a small amount of CaCl2, add a small amount of Acid, and a campden tablet (first and foremost) to get rid of the chloramines, and I should be good!

Its obviously a little more technical than that, but just relaying that I can use less additions and less of each addition. And not have to buy 10 gallons of DI water. So pumped!

I am going to brew an APA on Sunday to highlight Belma hops, and will be using City Water again! All in my new keggle!! Going to be an exciting brew day

Thats basically what I do only I fill my HLT and let it sit for a couple days for the chlorine to dissipate naturally. I also use the 5.2 stabilzer on my ligghter beers..I have a digital ph meter and TDS meter so I can see that it does work....And I have an RO system... RO has not been worth using so far for the styles I've one...

 

[HumulusHead]

How about this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251281000159?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT it has Fahrenheit readout and will work with the $6 pt100 rtd sensors... I have one I'm going to use in a build I am doing for someone.
if you dont mind celcius there are more options. personally I just use a manual dial thermometer in the tee at the base of my MLT....from bargain fittings.

Thats pretty much what i am looking for!

Is it safe to say that the readout is as accurate as the sensor? So as long as i am using an RTD sensor and its calibrated properly, I shouldn't worry about accuracy?

The reason I wouldn't want to do an STC1000 is accuracy, but that must be due to the probe?

 

[HumulusHead]

Thats basically what I do only I fill my HLT and let it sit for a couple days for the chlorine to dissipate naturally. I also use the 5.2 stabilzer on my ligghter beers..I have a digital ph meter and TDS meter so I can see that it does work....And I have an RO system... RO has not been worth using so far for the styles I've one...

I used to fill my cooler up with water and let it sit. Then one day for class we took a field trip to the WTP and I learned that that use Chloramine instead of Chlorine. Chloramine doesn't evap out like Cl. So i was letting it sit for no reason! ha

I am going to experiment with campden this weekend.

 

[augiedoggy]

Thats pretty much what i am looking for!

Is it safe to say that the readout is as accurate as the sensor? So as long as i am using an RTD sensor and its calibrated properly, I shouldn't worry about accuracy?

The reason I wouldn't want to do an STC1000 is accuracy, but that must be due to the probe?

I cant comment on that for sure but there is another version for 2-3 bucks more that has an adjustment and alarm ability if you search ebay for "Fahrenheit temperature meter" or "digital ......"

my pids were all close but I did have to adjust the temps on one of them.

 

[augiedoggy]

I used to fill my cooler up with water and let it sit. Then one day for class we took a field trip to the WTP and I learned that that use Chloramine instead of Chlorine. Chloramine doesn't evap out like Cl. So i was letting it sit for no reason! ha

I am going to experiment with campden this weekend.

yes you are right... I read this as well now that you reminded me. guess I should use the camden every time...

 

[HumulusHead]

yes you are right... I read this as well now that you reminded me. guess I should use the camden every time...

It depends what you municipality utilizes though. Some use chlorine while others use chloramine. My city uses primarily surface water (River water) as the water source and due to this there are alot of organics in the water. Chlorine, i guess, reacts with organics while chloramine doesn't. Chlorine is cheaper and is therefore the preferred route if possible.

If your city draws its water from wells there is a good chance your trick of letting the chlorine vap off is a good idea.

 

[stevehaun]

chloramine can be removed by an activated charcoal filter that can be purchased at home depot, lowes, etc.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Icemaker-Filter-Refill-GXRTDR/202073877?N=5yc1vZarss#specifications

 

[HumulusHead]

yes you are right... I read this as well now that you reminded me. guess I should use the camden every time...

Well i did some creeping, appears you get to drink water from the Niagra! So I would bet it is chloramines you do have to deal with

 

[HumulusHead]

Well i did some creeping, appears you get to drink water from the Niagra! So I would bet it is chloramines you do have to deal with

Take that back, I see that your city does use Chlorine for residual disinfection, not Chloramine

 

[HumulusHead]

chloramine can be removed by an activated charcoal filter that can be purchased at home depot, lowes, etc.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Icemaker-Filter-Refill-GXRTDR/202073877?N=5yc1vZarss#specifications

This is true.

Don't you have to really throttle down the flow rate though? I've heard that the chloramine needs greater contact time to be removed.

At this point half a pill (or however much) or campden sounds nice and easy

 

[HumulusHead]

How about this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251281000159?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT it has Fahrenheit readout and will work with the $6 pt100 rtd sensors... I have one I'm going to use in a build I am doing for someone.
if you dont mind celcius there are more options. personally I just use a manual dial thermometer in the tee at the base of my MLT....from bargain fittings.

Silly question...

How do I power it? I will have 220V in my controller and 110v coming off the coils of the contactors. Can I use either of those power sources and somehow convert it to the 12vDC?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-110V-220...t=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item3ce0dc6e37
???

 

[HumulusHead]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-85V-265V...t=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item234aecdb1f

maybe this would work?

 

[LandoLincoln]

This is true.

Don't you have to really throttle down the flow rate though? I've heard that the chloramine needs greater contact time to be removed.

At this point half a pill (or however much) or campden sounds nice and easy

They are. Campden tablets work amazingly well.

 

[HumulusHead]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1423769043.023804.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1423769056.074560.jpg

Got some pictures of my enclosure that came! Not sure how much of the existing buttons I can use, but they are all momentary so probably useless to me.

 

[Onkel_Udo]

Got some pictures of my enclosure that came! Not sure how much of the existing buttons I can use, but they are all momentary so probably useless to me.

You MUST keep the ROBOT button and then anty one who pushes it MUSt dance the robot until you push it again!

 

[augiedoggy]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-85V-265V...t=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item234aecdb1f

maybe this would work?

yes it produces 300 MA the meter only needs 50ma so its more than good enough.... I use dc power in my control for my dc pumps and a fan panel so I forgot about that

 

[augiedoggy]

Take that back, I see that your city does use Chlorine for residual disinfection, not Chloramine

That explains why I dont taste it with my method.

 

[HumulusHead]

You MUST keep the ROBOT button and then anty one who pushes it MUSt dance the robot until you push it again!

I like it

I am really curious what kinda robot this thing used to control!

 

[tnorman93638]

Is the SSR 25A that came with he PID rated enough? I though from reading other threads on this you should install a 40A SSR.

 

[Onkel_Udo]

I like it

I am really curious what kinda robot this thing used to control!

It was surely an early Skynet prototype. Is there any other answer?

 

[HumulusHead]

Is the SSR 25A that came with he PID rated enough? I though from reading other threads on this you should install a 40A SSR.

I hope so... Should be?

5500w at 220v = 25a

And that's all the power that the SSR will dealin with at once.

Though it will be connected to 30amp service...

???? Now I'm debating

 

[HumulusHead]

It was surely an early Skynet prototype. Is there any other answer?

I shall dub thee brew rig "terminator"

 

[BlkWater_brewer]

Auber PIDs are Chinese.

A good, 50 x 1/2" coil w/ fittings will run you 125.00 by itself.

I wouldn't use anything smaller than 50 x 1/2".

Just for reference - http://www.stainlessbrewing.com/Coiled-to-customers-request-035-304304L-Coiled-Tubing_p_30.html

has great prices on stainless coils.

 

[Onkel_Udo]

I shall dub thee brew rig "terminator"

T1000.5?

Now, relabel one button "Time Warp" and brew days with a partner could be very entertaining.

 

[augiedoggy]

Is the SSR 25A that came with he PID rated enough? I though from reading other threads on this you should install a 40A SSR.

25a is rated for anything up to and including 25a..a 5500w element realistically draws 23a in most residential environments (240v not 208).

If your shopping for ssrs and they are the same price or close Its a no brainer to get the 40a only because the idea is it will run cooler and less possibility of failure. that said I have been using my 25a "mypin" ssr for over a year with no issues. But I use two 4500w elements since I only brew 10 and 5 gallons brews. this also allows me to run 1 4500w element at the same time as my 1000w rims tube on a 30a circuit along with my panel and pumps.

Just want to mention that theres nothing wrong with using copper coil instead of stainless as long as you keep it clean... lots of breweries use copper tanks to brew including Stella..
I do agree stainless is easier to keep clean though...

 

[augiedoggy]

T1000.5?

Now, relabel one button "Time Warp" and brew days with a partner could be very entertaining.

Wasnt the T1000 a Pontiac version of the chevette?

 

[Onkel_Udo]

Wasnt the T1000 a Pontiac version of the chevette?

Yes, and a much sought after LeMon's race car as no one has yet brought one. The Cadillac Cimarron did finally race so, this is one of the last terrible GM products not yet raced...and we are building the other.

 

[cantrell00]

Just for reference - http://www.stainlessbrewing.com/Coiled-to-customers-request-035-304304L-Coiled-Tubing_p_30.html

has great prices on stainless coils.

Correct.. That is where I got mine.. Once you include the necessary bends & fittings, $125+.. But worth every penny!

 

[augiedoggy]

Correct.. That is where I got mine.. Once you include the necessary bends & fittings, $125+.. But worth every penny!

or you could buy 100 ft of it here for $50 with shipping and use the other 50ft for your chiller right?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-OD-x-03...614?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f4705d2be
the thinner walled stuff is about $60 for 50ft with shipping ironically it seems.
most coil it smaller using a corny keg or something 12" or so in diameter which you roll it around across the floor to bend.

 

[augiedoggy]

Yes, and a much sought after LeMon's race car as no one has yet brought one. The Cadillac Cimarron did finally race so, this is one of the last terrible GM products not yet raced...and we are building the other.

I had an 84 chevette...(first car ). sold it and bought an 84 corvette a couple years later... big upgrade even if they were both underpowered...
sorry back on topic...

 

[cantrell00]

or you could buy 100 ft of it here for $50 with shipping and use the other 50ft for your chiller right?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-OD-x-03...614?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f4705d2be
the thinner walled stuff is about $60 for 50ft with shipping ironically it seems.
most coil it smaller using a corny keg or something 12" or so in diameter which you roll it around across the floor to bend.

True but coiling that stuff by hand is ridiculously difficult...

 

[Onkel_Udo]

I had an 84 chevette...(first car ). sold it and bought an 84 corvette a couple years later... big upgrade even if they were both underpowered...
sorry back on topic...

Yes, but was it a DIESEL Chevette? One of the winningest LeMons in history (sort of).

 

[HumulusHead]

I received some parts in the mail today for my control panel! all the necessary indicator lights, switches, buzzer/alarm, and the three coils i need! Updated my parts list with prices.

Its been a slow process obtaining parts since i am trying to do it on the cheap...

all i need for my CP yet is an estop, wiring, outlets, fuses, and the terminal block things (i think i need those??)

would anybody have an opinion of AWG of wire for inside the panel? ive seen differing opinions across this site, and i believe some of the wires need to be a larger gage then some of the wires. would anyone be able to enlighten me on that too?? ha

 

[Falcon3]

would anybody have an opinion of AWG of wire for inside the panel? ive seen differing opinions across this site, and i believe some of the wires need to be a larger gage then some of the wires. would anyone be able to enlighten me on that too?? ha

Anything that's not element-bearing amperage can be 14AWG. Anything supplying power to your elements should be 10AWG.

Your non-element wiring is only going to be bearing a few amps at most- the PIDs , pumps, alarms, and lights don't draw much current- you could probably get away with 16 AWG, but 14 is easy to use, very nearly as cheap as 16AWG, and most of your crimp-on terminals will work really well with 14AWG-

 

[augiedoggy]

I received some parts in the mail today for my control panel! all the necessary indicator lights, switches, buzzer/alarm, and the three coils i need! Updated my parts list with prices.

Its been a slow process obtaining parts since i am trying to do it on the cheap...

all i need for my CP yet is an estop, wiring, outlets, fuses, and the terminal block things (i think i need those??)

would anybody have an opinion of AWG of wire for inside the panel? ive seen differing opinions across this site, and i believe some of the wires need to be a larger gage then some of the wires. would anyone be able to enlighten me on that too?? ha

if your talking about the wiring to your switches,indicators and pids you can get it at radioshack in a three color kit (18awg is more than enough for the 1/2amp load ) Pump wiring should be 14 awg. You can get multiple thicknesses at home depot... including the 12 or 10 awg for the element wiring. I bought 10awg there myself for my latest panel since it will generate less heat and be less likely to "loosen at the connection points" as people have told me has happened to thiers... technically if the insulation is of the correct type you can use 12 awg and some say even 14awg (I wouldnt) for the 18-23 amp element load.

Then of course you also have the "wire kit" from harbor freight which is about $40 and has all the wire you should need if you dont care about color... There is no certifications on the wire though so many here believe its dangerous since the insulation type and value is unknown... Then again there isnt much that everyone here does agree on so... I used a lot of this wire in my main brew panel built over a year ago and had it apart to add something last week... The wiring all looks as good as the day it was installed despite being told it would turn white and have the insulation fall of in short order.

I did source my heavy wire from the home depot for my latest build though because I plan on selling it.

 

[schematix]

Wire size depends on your over current protective device (fuse, circuit breaker) rating. OCPD rating is based on actual power usage. You can't safely drop wire size without adding a fuse or circuit breaker.

 

[augiedoggy]

Wire size depends on your over current protective device (fuse, circuit breaker) rating. OCPD rating is based on actual power usage. You can't safely drop wire size without adding a fuse or circuit breaker.

Yes, this is a very true related point I forgot to mention....

 

[HumulusHead]

Can someone explain to me how terminal blocks work?

In my mind I'm hoping they work like a splitter. Like one hot leg can be attached then just plug in any wire that needs to branch off that hot leg.

Is that how they work?

I've seen a ton of them on eBay for cheap, but the descriptions seem to state they insulate one wire from another?

Would that mean I would need a jumper? Or what is the purpose of a jumper?

I want to use these terminal blocks if possible to make the innards of my panel nice and neat!