120V 8G HERMS HLT Build

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USAFSooner

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I'm making the leap from RIMS to HERMS. I already have a great mash tun and controller setup. I brew 5G batches so a HERMS built around a 2000W heater in a 8G HLT should be plenty.

First some minor modifications to the Mash Tun to relocate the thermometer probe. Borrowing inspiration from Kal's rig for placement. Added in a stainless T, 1/2" to 1/4" bushing from Brewhardware and a 2" probe from Auber Instruments.

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Now to build up the HLT. Starting from the bottom up I used a step bit to bore a 7/8" hole and then dimpled and silver soldered a coupling in place (see Joe Fishers YouTube video for a great how to).

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Next I used a step bit to bore an 1-3/8" hole 90 degrees offset from the first fitting. Then I used a 2" triclover solder fitting from Brewhardware and Bobby's soldering technique and jig per his YouTube video. A 2000W CAMCO element was installed into a 2" triclover Brewhardware enclosure.

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Next a second fitting was installed for the bottom coil port exactly like the drain port. A 1/2" to 3/8" compression fitting was installed on the kettle side of this port. A second port above this one will be installed once the coil arrives from StainlessBrewing and a measurement can be made.

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More to follow when the coil arrives.

Product idea for someone:

Make ball valve handles that are labeled:

Wort -->
 
HERMS coil input fitting attached. Had to go as high as I could on the pot to accommodate the coil. Word to the wise, get both fittings installed before ordering the coil.

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HERMS coil mounted. 3/8", 8" diameter, 50'. If I had to do over I would have asked StainlessBrewing to make it a couple inches shorter like maybe a ~40' coil. I managed to get it to fit.

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Water/Leak testing. Everything passed.

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I had to make another hose with Camlocks. If you are running a HERMS with a wort pump and a water pump with the HLT and MLT you will need 5 hoses. I highly recommend BrewHardwares camlocks and clear silicon tubing.

My simple PID controller, reused the same one from my RIMS rig and added a Volt/Ammeter.

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Almost ready to brew a beer on this rig as soon as I add a whirlpool port to the top of the HLT to use to recirculate the hot water and fill the HLT. Adding another whirlpool port to the top of the boil kettle at the rim as well as a water/wort in port.
 
Also adding a Sight Gauge and Thermometer port to the HLT to monitor temp and level.

Anyone have any experience with the horizontal float switches? I'm considering getting one so it opens the SSR control circuit on the PID and kills the element when water drops too low.
 
Float Switch arrived today. Made a cable for it using some old headphone wire and an XLR Jack set. Covered it up with some expandable sleeving for protection. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424397263.404007.jpg

Even with a half coupling though it keeps the float from going down when screwed in. I'll have to do a weldless install with a set of nuts and washers and rubber gaskets.
 
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