What is the best temperature for dry hopping?

[Barone Flavio]

Many speak in 64 F and some 39 F What is your opinion ?

 

[AlexKay]

Scott Janish leans towards cool/cold:
What We Know About Dry Hopping - Scott Janish
A Case for Short And Cool Dry Hopping - Scott Janish

I think it depends on when and how, as well. I ferment in a keg, and purge a second keg into which the dry-hop charge (and some metabisulfite) have been placed, spund, and then transfer onto the hops. Floating dip tubes all around. And then drink quickly. Keeping the beer cold at this point slows aging.

If you're dry-hopping during active fermentation (so yeast can remove oxygen, or maybe biotransform hop compounds) then cold isn't really an option. And you can make perfectly good beer that way. (Drinking it quickly still a good idea.)

 

[Barone Flavio]

Scott Janish se inclina para o frio/frio:
O que sabemos sobre dry hopping - Scott Janish
Um caso para salto seco curto e frio - Scott Janish

Acho que depende de quando e como também. Fermento em um barril e purgo um segundo barril no qual a carga de dry-hop (e algum metabissulfito) foi colocada, giro e depois transfiro para o lúpulo. Tubos de imersão flutuantes ao redor. E então beba rapidamente. Manter a cerveja gelada neste ponto retarda o envelhecimento.

Se você está fazendo dry-hopping durante a fermentação ativa (para que a levedura possa remover o oxigênio ou talvez biotransformar os compostos do lúpulo), o frio não é realmente uma opção. E você pode fazer uma cerveja perfeitamente boa dessa maneira. (Beber rapidamente ainda é uma boa ideia.)

obrigado

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

55f after a soft crash.

 

[Barone Flavio]

55f after a soft crash.

Thanks

 

[wepeeler]

55f after a soft crash.

Pretty much the same for me. I soft crash to 50F for 24-48 hours, then DH at same temp for 48 hours.

 

[day_trippr]

I've been giving Janish's "cool-ish & short-ish" philosophy a try and though I was a skeptic I have to admit it has been working well...

Cheers!

 

[jerrylotto]

Split your batch and do both, then decide which one you like better

 

[Barone Flavio]

Pretty much the same for me. I soft crash to 50F for 24-48 hours, then DH at same temp for 48 hours.

thanks

 

[JohnDBrewer]

I dry hop based on time v. temp. If I'm DH'ing for 3, 5 or 7 days, and need the fermenter or fermentation chamber for the next beer, drives my decision more than temp. Never noticed a difference on the temp side, but definitely on the time side when DH'ing. Split the batch and let us know.

 

[Barone Flavio]

I dry hop based on time v. temp. If I'm DH'ing for 3, 5 or 7 days, and need the fermenter or fermentation chamber for the next beer, drives my decision more than temp. Never noticed a difference on the temp side, but definitely on the time side when DH'ing. Split the batch and let us know.

tanks

 

[CascadesBrewer]

Split your batch and do both, then decide which one you like better

I did this once with an IPA. The batch that was dry hopped at 40F had much less hop flavor than the one that was dry hopped at 70F. At least with my process (adding hops loose), there is a certain temp where the hops just rocket strait to the bottom. I don't have a way to rouse the dry hops. I would note that at Sapwood Cellars (Scott Janish's brewery) he dry hops quite cold, but also rouses the hops several times with CO2.

I will often dry hop at 70F. I find this works well up to the amount of hops in my American IPA recipes (4 oz in a 5 gallon batch). When I have dry hopped NEIPAs at the 8 oz rate, I have experienced harshness that has taken several weeks to drop out. It is based on a limited data set, so it could be just the specific batch or hops. For my last two NEIPAs, I have done a crash down to around 40F, then brought the beer back up to 60F for dry hopping. Those batches both turned out quite nice.

I recently picked up a pair of Tilts. I am hoping these will give me better insight into when my beer is ready to move to the cool crash and dry hopping stage.

 

[day_trippr]

At least with my process (adding hops loose), there is a certain temp where the hops just rocket strait to the bottom.

Absolutely true - and I think that temperature is right around 50°F, as that has always been around the point that floating hop mush heads to the bottom of the fermenter when I cold crash.

Pellets will indeed go straight to Davey Jones' Beer Locker at that temperature and just sit there whole, so I've taken to blasting the pellets in the Cuisinart first and take my chances with the little extra O2. I'm pretty sure it has helped keep the extract efficiency where my recipe designs expect it with no downside...

Cheers!

 

[YeastFeast]

I use a Spike 5 gallon conical and a fermentation fridge. Lately, I've been chilling to 58º for 36 hrs+ to encourage stuff to drop, then dump it. Then dry hop 1-3 times for 24-36 hours, dumping after each dry hop session. I also rouse with Co2 during each dry hop session.

 

[couchsending]

If you have the ability to rouse I’m a big fan of colder temps. We’ve been going colder and colder and might start going closer to 40 for a few batches to see how it works. Some hops will drop and some will float. It depends on how they were pelletized. I’d recommend pulling a small sample and adding a few pellets of what you’re gonna use for that DH. The really dense pellets will sink right to the bottom which is what you don’t want. Maybe give those a bit of a crush before you add them.

Rousing actually has the benefit of breaking up the “hop rafts” that tend to sit on the top of the beer during dry hopping. It creates turbulence that can actually get those hops on top to slowly sink into the beer. We rouse through the racking arm while moving it to different positions. Sometimes we will follow this with a rouse through the dump port the next day although I’m not as big of a fan of that honestly.

The issue with dry hopping cold is if you don’t have a stellar fermentation you run the risk of locking in some non desirable compounds that won’t have the ability to volatilize off at lower temps. Acetaldehyde is a big one that can pop its ugly head up when you least expect it. Leaving the beer at warmer temps for dry hopping can help to clean up something that might not be desirable. If you are dry hopping warm I’d also recommend not capping the fermenter. Leave the blow off on until you’re ready to cool. Removing hops very slowly after 48 hours is also not a bad thing. A littl each day until it’s ready to cool.

Also make sure you get as little trub as humanly possible in the fermenter. If you have the ability to dump I’d recommend doing a small one at 24 hours into fermentation. Trub can be full of mercaptans that can cause the dreaded hop stank. The beers that have this rotting over ripe, pumpkin guts character to them? That’s mercaptans + Less that ideal fermentation + high dry hopping loads. There’s lot of commercial examples out there with this flaw.