Weezy
Well-Known Member
I like it! How does the liquor go with the Cascade? I'd have thought something more testing earthy or floral
I like it! How does the liquor go with the Cascade? I'd have thought something more testing earthy or floral
This is a great thread. I've brewed a lot of these. Pappy's dark cream ale is on rotation. We need to make a new one in homage to this one ust called session beers or something. This one hasn't been about sub 1.030 beers since like page two. And fifth post here is "well this wasn't a 1.030 beer but"
What's next? A session barley wine? A session belgian triple or quad? A session old ale? How about calling a session ale a session ale?
I've been brewing using Randy Mosher's "Lazy" method where you basically create a partial boil all grain beer with no sparge - http://allaboutbeer.com/article/the-lazy-brewers-guide-to-mashing
I don't know. That sounds like a lot of effort I do straight no sparge BIAB for anything sub 1.060 and no-chill for anything without a lot of late hop character. That makes for a 3 hour brew day on the weekend and then deal with wort some evening a couple days later.
Parti Gyle, essentially? What kind of gravity do you hit on the sparge? Interesting idea. the first mash is like 60-65% then get whatevers left for the second? supplement some new grain? Second beer is probably pretty small?
Brewing these is just like brewing any beer, really. There's no consensus on method. Just whatever your regular process is. Full volume mashing, like BIAB, is fine. You just have to worry about your pH more. Low gravity brewing might be considered easier since there's less grain to deal with.
Full volume boiling? That's typically how it's always done, be it BIAB or multiple pot with sparge setups. You can boil with smaller volumes, but then you have to to up post boil or in the fermenter.
I meant full volume mash at the end. Just thinking that if I go with my regular grain to water ratio for the mash I'll have a big ass sparge.
Stopping fermentation early is unwise. Yeast need a chance to clean up after themselves and they can kick out off flavors from the stress of a forced shutdown. You're better off using more adjuncts, mashing high, and using lower attenuating yeast (some combination of those or all)... Not unlike gbx is doing with that psuedo RIS.
I brewed up a great little mild last year. Not quite sub 1.030, but it clocked in at 2.5% while tasting like a much bigger beer, with lovely roast character.
3.3 lbs Maris Otter LME
1 lb Pilsen DME
12 oz Crystal 80
8 oz Torrified Wheat
8 oz Black Malt
4 oz Chocolate
1 oz East Kent Goldings 60 min
1 oz East Kent Goldings 15 min
WLP002 English Ale
OG was 1.031, FG 1.011. This little beer stayed great for months, and plenty of people tried it out and agreed it was surprisingly tasty.
Didn't mash at all. It's an extract recipe, so I just steeped the specialty grains at about 155 for 30 minutes. But it's got plenty of body.
I'd really love to do a partigyle Scottish ale, the only thing stopping me is that I prefer to use dry yeasts. In my patrigyle fantasy the small beer is around 1.030. The big beer is around 1.090.
whats wrong with dry yeast and parti gyle?
Everything I've seen says Wyeast 1728 and WLP028 are the only yeasts to use for a Scottish Ale. I've used Nottingham and Windsor and am not feelin' it for a Scottish Ale. I'm not against using liquid yeasts, but making starters? Not my jam.
Cheap as hell, but surprisingly good. I've also had really good success with Galaxy and Citra hops, but Cascade seems to be the crowd favorite.
Everything I've seen says Wyeast 1728 and WLP028 are the only yeasts to use for a Scottish Ale. I've used Nottingham and Windsor and am not feelin' it for a Scottish Ale. I'm not against using liquid yeasts, but making starters? Not my jam.
Enter your email address to join: