Sub 1.030 beers

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I like it! How does the liquor go with the Cascade? I'd have thought something more testing earthy or floral
 
Does stopping ferment early count as an option? Don't forget back sweetening with dextrose and adding adjusts with non-Convertible starches as options to increase body, while keeping low ABV.

I think low gravity/low alcohol beers make a lot of sense from a homebrewer perspective. You enjoy more tasty brews that way.
 
Stopping fermentation early is unwise. Yeast need a chance to clean up after themselves and they can kick out off flavors from the stress of a forced shutdown. You're better off using more adjuncts, mashing high, and using lower attenuating yeast (some combination of those or all)... Not unlike gbx is doing with that psuedo RIS.
 
I like it! How does the liquor go with the Cascade? I'd have thought something more testing earthy or floral

The cascade were added at first wort so there isn't a lot of hop character and nothing that says "cascade". I have used goldings in previous versions but I had some left over cascade in the freezer that I was trying to burn through.

In terms of high FG, S-04 is great in stouts and always seems to floc out early (try to count the number of "S-04 stopped fermenting at 1.020" threads there are on HBT). The problem is it will sometimes kick up again and could cause over carbing if bottle conditioning. I keg so it isn't a problem as S-04 won't restart in the fridge but I have done a few casks that had issues
 
This is a great thread. I've brewed a lot of these. Pappy's dark cream ale is on rotation. We need to make a new one in homage to this one ust called session beers or something. This one hasn't been about sub 1.030 beers since like page two. And fifth post here is "well this wasn't a 1.030 beer but" :)
 
This is a great thread. I've brewed a lot of these. Pappy's dark cream ale is on rotation. We need to make a new one in homage to this one ust called session beers or something. This one hasn't been about sub 1.030 beers since like page two. And fifth post here is "well this wasn't a 1.030 beer but" :)

Thats true :) ...but its about true session beers. Not the 5.5% Session IPA's I see craft brewers trying to push.
 
What's next? A session barley wine? A session belgian triple or quad? A session old ale? How about calling a session ale a session ale?
 
What's next? A session barley wine? A session belgian triple or quad? A session old ale? How about calling a session ale a session ale?

Is this sarcasm? I can't tell. I first rolled my eyes when I saw gbx taking about a session RIS... Until I saw how he approached it. He's trying to mimic the flavors & richness without the high abv. Lots of kudos for trying that. Much more interesting then the peanut butter bourbon barrel vanilla pecan stout stuff imho.

Anyway, sub-5.0%?
 
My favorite low OG beer was light munich, carabrown, 5 oz of EKG at flameout and US04. Was delicious and you'd never guess it had so little alcohol.
 
Good to see this thread still going, I'll post up some recent beers I've brewed soon - just kicked a petite saison that was dry hopped with mosaic that was fantastic. Will post the recipe soon.
 
This is a beer that I brewed as an experiment mashing schedule that worked out really well. Got 5 gallons each of two different beers.

I've been brewing using Randy Mosher's "Lazy" method where you basically create a partial boil all grain beer with no sparge - http://allaboutbeer.com/article/the-lazy-brewers-guide-to-mashing

Here's the brew day:

Did a "lazy" no-sparge with this recipe to create my Pale ale that I try to have on tap always (hops change and grain bill sometimes changes) - https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/hopiness-iii

While that is mashing I heated up about 5 gallons of water. Once the first no-sparge goes into the boil, I add the 5 gallons right after that - in effect doing a batch sparge. With this recipe I added a touch of chocolate malt that did nothing in the final beer.

So on this second beer I used Sonnet Goldings, Bodicea & added a bunch of garden grown coriander to the boil. Fermented it out with cultured Ommegang Yeast, then dry hopped it with Galaxy in the keg. Ended up with a really smooth 3% Petite Saison from my inefficient Hopiness Pale Ale Mash. Definitely a time saver as well - I've done back to back batches before that took much longer.

Here it is:

farmhouse.png
 
I've been brewing using Randy Mosher's "Lazy" method where you basically create a partial boil all grain beer with no sparge - http://allaboutbeer.com/article/the-lazy-brewers-guide-to-mashing

I don't know. That sounds like a lot of effort :p I do straight no sparge BIAB for anything sub 1.060 and no-chill for anything without a lot of late hop character. That makes for a 3 hour brew day on the weekend and then deal with wort some evening a couple days later.
 
Parti Gyle, essentially? What kind of gravity do you hit on the sparge? Interesting idea. the first mash is like 60-65% then get whatevers left for the second? supplement some new grain? Second beer is probably pretty small?
 
I don't know. That sounds like a lot of effort :p I do straight no sparge BIAB for anything sub 1.060 and no-chill for anything without a lot of late hop character. That makes for a 3 hour brew day on the weekend and then deal with wort some evening a couple days later.

It's by far the easiest non-biab mash, basically grind your grains, add it to mash tun, put 5 gallons of water in - walk away for 60 minutes and drain it to brew kettle.

That's easier than biab b/c you don't have lift anything like wet bag of grain.

But anyways I'm moving more to a brew in a basket all in one system right now for other reasons.
 
Parti Gyle, essentially? What kind of gravity do you hit on the sparge? Interesting idea. the first mash is like 60-65% then get whatevers left for the second? supplement some new grain? Second beer is probably pretty small?

Yeah just a partigyle, I wish I had a refracrometer to measure those gravitates but I don't.
 
I'm interested in trying a super low ABV brew. Probably shoot for either an APA or Kolsch. I've seen a few people talking about full volume mashes, is this the general consensus for these brews? How much do you account for in efficiency loss by going full boil, or is there any with this thin of a mash?
 
Brewing these is just like brewing any beer, really. There's no consensus on method. Just whatever your regular process is. Full volume mashing, like BIAB, is fine. You just have to worry about your pH more. Low gravity brewing might be considered easier since there's less grain to deal with.

Full volume boiling? That's typically how it's always done, be it BIAB or multiple pot with sparge setups. You can boil with smaller volumes, but then you have to to up post boil or in the fermenter.
 
Brewing these is just like brewing any beer, really. There's no consensus on method. Just whatever your regular process is. Full volume mashing, like BIAB, is fine. You just have to worry about your pH more. Low gravity brewing might be considered easier since there's less grain to deal with.

Full volume boiling? That's typically how it's always done, be it BIAB or multiple pot with sparge setups. You can boil with smaller volumes, but then you have to to up post boil or in the fermenter.

I meant full volume mash at the end. Just thinking that if I go with my regular grain to water ratio for the mash I'll have a big ass sparge.
 
I meant full volume mash at the end. Just thinking that if I go with my regular grain to water ratio for the mash I'll have a big ass sparge.

Oh I got you. Sorry. I don't know what your equipment setup is or your process so it's hard to get specific. Water volume just comes down to pH control.
 
Just read about the "roots of root beer" and immediately thought of this thread. Homebrew hard root beer around 3%? Sounds good to me! If you do the parti gyle effort above you could do a long boil to up the non fermentables like a wee wee Scottish w root beer spices...
 
Stopping fermentation early is unwise. Yeast need a chance to clean up after themselves and they can kick out off flavors from the stress of a forced shutdown. You're better off using more adjuncts, mashing high, and using lower attenuating yeast (some combination of those or all)... Not unlike gbx is doing with that psuedo RIS.

I find yeast selection is critical for early stopping. Which was counter intuitive to me. I've found its better to avoid the low attenuating yeasts for stopping early they tend to be more sensitive all around and take a long time to finish and clean up. So far I like either saison yeast, because the off flavors are kind of nice and the clean but vigourous yeasts, though more and more I like the clean yeast.
 
La Petite Chienne

I was inspired to brew this after having a Jester King Le Petite Prince, which is a lively light sour. I believe they blend in some fresh beer but this doesn't need it so I decided not to bother.


34j9oqr.jpg


OG 1.044

70% Belgian pils
20% Torrified wheat
10% Carafoam
8 IBUs Columbus@60

Yeast Bay Melange

Leave alone for 8 months minimum (this is 18 months)
 
I brewed up a great little mild last year. Not quite sub 1.030, but it clocked in at 2.5% while tasting like a much bigger beer, with lovely roast character.

• 3.3 lbs Maris Otter LME
• 1 lb Pilsen DME
• 12 oz Crystal 80
• 8 oz Torrified Wheat
• 8 oz Black Malt
• 4 oz Chocolate
• 1 oz East Kent Goldings – 60 min
• 1 oz East Kent Goldings – 15 min
• WLP002 – English Ale

OG was 1.031, FG 1.011. This little beer stayed great for months, and plenty of people tried it out and agreed it was surprisingly tasty.
 
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I brewed up a great little mild last year. Not quite sub 1.030, but it clocked in at 2.5% while tasting like a much bigger beer, with lovely roast character.

• 3.3 lbs Maris Otter LME
• 1 lb Pilsen DME
• 12 oz Crystal 80
• 8 oz Torrified Wheat
• 8 oz Black Malt
• 4 oz Chocolate
• 1 oz East Kent Goldings – 60 min
• 1 oz East Kent Goldings – 15 min
• WLP002 – English Ale

OG was 1.031, FG 1.011. This little beer stayed great for months, and plenty of people tried it out and agreed it was surprisingly tasty.


What temp did you mash at? I'd venture to guess 155 for residual body...
 
Didn't mash at all. It's an extract recipe, so I just steeped the specialty grains at about 155 for 30 minutes. But it's got plenty of body.
 
just fyi for the future...Torrified wheat needs to be mashed. It's unmalted wheat.
 
Didn't mash at all. It's an extract recipe, so I just steeped the specialty grains at about 155 for 30 minutes. But it's got plenty of body.

I have always thought LME and DME normally finishing a bit high was a problem, but for low ABV beers I guess that might actually be beneficial.

This is the first I have seen this thread, pretty cool. Looks to be an interesting read.
 
Keeping this thread alive, I have been brewing 1.030 beers for a while not and quite like them, just brewed my low abv brown version2 first one was good, changed the yeast from 05 to Windsor ale and added melanoidin malt for some more depth,
Can't wait to see what its like.
 
I'd really love to do a partigyle Scottish ale, the only thing stopping me is that I prefer to use dry yeasts. In my patrigyle fantasy the small beer is around 1.030. The big beer is around 1.090.
 
I'd really love to do a partigyle Scottish ale, the only thing stopping me is that I prefer to use dry yeasts. In my patrigyle fantasy the small beer is around 1.030. The big beer is around 1.090.

whats wrong with dry yeast and parti gyle?
 
Yeah, you could use windsor for the small one and notingham/ a mix of notty and windsor for the bigger one. or bry97 or us05 etc etc
 
My "I need to brew something, but am short on time" recipe...

4lb x-light extract
4 oz maltodextrine

.5 oz Cascade @ 30 min
.5 oz Cascade @ 5 min
.5 oz Cascade - Dry hop

US-05

13 days and done.

Cheap as hell, but surprisingly good. I've also had really good success with Galaxy and Citra hops, but Cascade seems to be the crowd favorite.
 
whats wrong with dry yeast and parti gyle?

Everything I've seen says Wyeast 1728 and WLP028 are the only yeasts to use for a Scottish Ale. I've used Nottingham and Windsor and am not feelin' it for a Scottish Ale. I'm not against using liquid yeasts, but making starters? Not my jam.
 
Everything I've seen says Wyeast 1728 and WLP028 are the only yeasts to use for a Scottish Ale. I've used Nottingham and Windsor and am not feelin' it for a Scottish Ale. I'm not against using liquid yeasts, but making starters? Not my jam.

Ahh, I gotcha. I'd go with Mangrove Jack British Ale and be happy with it.

Cheap as hell, but surprisingly good. I've also had really good success with Galaxy and Citra hops, but Cascade seems to be the crowd favorite.

It's funny how many people always end up really liking Cascade beers. No school like the old school.
 
I make beer w my starters.
Pitch one vial into a low gravity something, in style or not, and at the end of primary I have plenty of yeast for a big brew.
Last time I did a cream of three crops with a British yeast, I think, in preparation for a IIPA. I end up w five gallons of something yummy and a pile of hungry beasties.
 
Everything I've seen says Wyeast 1728 and WLP028 are the only yeasts to use for a Scottish Ale. I've used Nottingham and Windsor and am not feelin' it for a Scottish Ale. I'm not against using liquid yeasts, but making starters? Not my jam.

You can get away without making starters for 1.030 beers if the liquid yeast is reasonably fresh. If its a 5 gal batch, just dump it in. Or just use your favourite dry yeast and don't worry about what the style nazis say. "scottish ale" is just a thing made up by the BJCP. if you aren't going to enter it in a comp don't worry about it.
 
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