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GilaMinumBeer

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https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f92/how-would-one-correct-highly-alkaline-irrigation-water-120451/

I have tried a google on this and only find reverse topics.

The question is, how to estimate the effect a high (alkaline) pH water source has on a soil pH (without a accurate pH meter) and how to compensate.

At the time the soils were installed my cheapo Soils pH probe concurred (close enough) a pH 7.5 with provided test results (pH 7.3). My water is reported to have a pH 9.0 to 9.3 (of which I'll try a pool system titration kit to verify) at the tap.

How can I adjust to maintain the proper soils pH without having to pre-treat a bulk of water or install a collection system (cistern or rain barrels) and without effecting the soil between waterings?

Basically, is there a buffer for this kind of thing? That won't be compromised by natural rainfall but still adjust the pH of my muni water.

Does this make any sense?
 
I think that you can buy fertilizer to correct high soil pH if you have to. IIRC, ammonium sulfate is used to add nitrogen and lower pH. What kind of volume are we talking about?
 
Well, I have the opposite problem. So, in theory I could just periodically add lime to the lawn (which I don't do as often as I should). Have you read about adding ferrous sulfate ("ground sulfur"). I think that serves the opposite purpose of adding lime and brings the soil pH down.
 
Pine straw will also bring the soil pH down.

It is also important to remeber that even though the water pH is high, the soil itself has huge buffering capacity. Have you noticed the the pH of the soil rising as you have been watering? Fertilizers also tend to have a low pH. So, I would just try it for a while and re-test your soil pH, if it is creeping up a pine straw covering might fix it.
 
I may be misreading it... but you said the pH was 9.0-9.3. This means that your soil/water is too basic. Adding lime (base) will maintain a basic pH. It will likely even raise the pH since the pKa of lime should be around 10 I think.

I am only a recent Biochem graduate, seeking my PhD next year, so take the advice of a more expierienced chemist if you find one. I would say that since fertilizers add nitrogen in the form of ammonium (weak monoprotic acid), a well fertilized lawn will lower the pH of the soil. No amount of lawn care will impact your water system though. It would take way too much fertilizer to have a significant impact in your water source.

I am guessing you also have rather hard water. Metals often produce hydroxide, and in turn raise the pH. There are some water filtration systems on the market that help filter these metals out, but they can usually be rather expensive. I'd imagine that you are much better off just buying bottled water.
 
I may be misreading it... but you said the pH was 9.0-9.3. This means that your soil/water is too basic. Adding lime (base) will maintain a basic pH. It will likely even raise the pH since the pKa of lime should be around 10 I think.

I am only a recent Biochem graduate, seeking my PhD next year, so take the advice of a more expierienced chemist if you find one. I would say that since fertilizers add nitrogen in the form of ammonium (weak monoprotic acid), a well fertilized lawn will lower the pH of the soil. No amount of lawn care will impact your water system though. It would take way too much fertilizer to have a significant impact in your water source.

I am guessing you also have rather hard water. Metals often produce hydroxide, and in turn raise the pH. There are some water filtration systems on the market that help filter these metals out, but they can usually be rather expensive. I'd imagine that you are much better off just buying bottled water.

Bottled water to water the whole yard?


I think as mentioned earlier, just water with what you get from the tap, check the soil and if it's PH does change due to the water (unlikely due to buffers in the soil) then just adjust with fertilizers.
 
I wouldn't worry about it. There's a good chance the pH is high because of carbonates. Once you water with it, your soil (and the water) is going to start to head towards equilibrium and much of the carbonates will be lost as CO2 and the pH will drop naturally. Plus most roots secrete carbonic acid to lower the soil pH and to act as an ion exchanger to release the anionic nutrients it wants from the positively charged soil particles. The greatest danger for really hard water is the build up of salts.
 
I did in fact check the yard for pH.

I watered the mounds deeply for about 5 minutes. Making sure to thouroughly saturate the soil and then used the cheepy probe pH meter.

pH 7.

If this meter is even close to accurate I should be at least well within Ph tolerance for the plants. I have not managed to test the water tho'.

Thanks for everyones contributions.
 
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