Nottingham kicked my carboy's ...

[jezter6]

This weekend I used nottingham for the first or maybe second time. The only time I've ever used dry yeast was back in my first 2 extract beers that I used the kit yeast.

I'm amazed at how this stuff works! I did an American Wheat and a very very bastardized Ed's Haus Pale both with Nottingham on Saturday. By Sunday morning I needed to change out the growler I used for the Wheat blowoff. By Sunday afternoon I needed to change the growler again due to excess blowoff - and I notice that the Pale has krausen in the lock and is going to explode. So I replace the growler with a bucket and now have 2 beers blasting foam into it. It sounded like a VW microbus was idling in my closet.

I go to head up to bed and I check in - and the bucket's got 3 inches of foam on it. I was kinda scared that it would end up blowing over by this morning but finally things were on their way down and the foam was just a light 1/2" layer in the bucket and both carboys.

This was a WILD fermentation and is probably mostly done in 2 days. I don't have the AC on in the house, so it's probably sitting at low-mid 70s.

Part of me is happy with the results and wants to stop wasting money on liquid yeast, the other is concerned that every beer is going to blow off.

How many people use dry yeast for most beers and only use something else for the specialty stuff that typically needs a yeast profile?

 

[brewt00l]

Not a fan 'o nottingham

 

[zoebisch01]

I have always been of this school of thought. I lean toward the S-04 now though. Nottingham I use for higher gravity brews that I don't want much yeast profile coming through. Belgians, Hefe's and Wit all get liquid. I use the W34 for my Lagers mostly.

 

[puney_the_youkel]

This weekend I used nottingham for the first or maybe second time. The only time I've ever used dry yeast was back in my first 2 extract beers that I used the kit yeast.

I'm amazed at how this stuff works! I did an American Wheat and a very very bastardized Ed's Haus Pale both with Nottingham on Saturday. By Sunday morning I needed to change out the growler I used for the Wheat blowoff. By Sunday afternoon I needed to change the growler again due to excess blowoff - and I notice that the Pale has krausen in the lock and is going to explode. So I replace the growler with a bucket and now have 2 beers blasting foam into it. It sounded like a VW microbus was idling in my closet.

I go to head up to bed and I check in - and the bucket's got 3 inches of foam on it. I was kinda scared that it would end up blowing over by this morning but finally things were on their way down and the foam was just a light 1/2" layer in the bucket and both carboys.

This was a WILD fermentation and is probably mostly done in 2 days. I don't have the AC on in the house, so it's probably sitting at low-mid 70s.

Part of me is happy with the results and wants to stop wasting money on liquid yeast, the other is concerned that every beer is going to blow off.

How many people use dry yeast for most beers and only use something else for the specialty stuff that typically needs a yeast profile?

I have been using Nottingham in my double IPS's exclusively for quite a while. Getting a huge beer to finish dry requires either a HUGE starter of liquid yeast or a huge performing yeast. Since I have been using Nottingham, I have given up liquid yeast.
Last week I made my Double IPA with a OG of 1.098 and seven days later it is 1.012. This stuff starts fast and finishes fast. It ferments well at cool temps and leaves a neutral, clean taste. I have compared it side-by-side with California liquid yeast and I prefer Nottingham.
It is easier, faster, cleaner and much cheaper. I hope you have similar results.

 

[jezter6]

I hope I have good results as well. My brews were only 1.051-1.055 range, so it's nothing I need super power for, I just wanted to 'cheap it' by using up all my leftover 1/2oz hops in the freezer and the cheapest yeast I could find.

I don't want it to be uber dry, but I guess we'll see.

 

[Liquidicem]

You should give some foam control drops a try. It will help to keep a fermentation like that under control.

 

[puney_the_youkel]

I hope I have good results as well. My brews were only 1.051-1.055 range, so it's nothing I need super power for, I just wanted to 'cheap it' by using up all my leftover 1/2oz hops in the freezer and the cheapest yeast I could find.

I don't want it to be uber dry, but I guess we'll see.

I think that this yeast is also good because of it's vigorous fermentation. As a home brewer, battling contamination is key to good clean beer. Nottingham's ability to get started so fast gives the yeast a head start on any possible wild yeasts or bacteria.

 

[Milhouse]

This is the result 24 hrs after pitching Nottingham in a Haus Pale Ale

 

[jezter6]

24 hours after pitching with Nottingham, mine was up in the neck blowing white foam out a blowoff tube.

Your wussy ferment has nothing on mine! heh

 

[Milhouse]

Did I say 24 hours? I meant 24 minutes! LOL

 

[ohiobrewtus]

I have always been of this school of thought. I lean toward the S-04 now though. Nottingham I use for higher gravity brews that I don't want much yeast profile coming through. Belgians, Hefe's and Wit all get liquid. I use the W34 for my Lagers mostly.

I'm with you on this one. I have about 5 liquid strains that I use regularly and for specific brews (WLP300, WLP400, WLP007, WLP029, WLP570) but when it comes to an APA, a mild Amber or something that benefits from a neutral strain I use Nottingham everytime.

 

[puney_the_youkel]

This beer finished in three days on Nottingham. No pics, I ferment in a Sankey keg:


Light DIPA Late Hop
Imperial IPA


Type: All Grain
Date: 2/6/2008
Batch Size: 10.00 gal
Brewer:
Boil Size: 11.25 gal Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: BREWTREE- 15 Gallon Brewing System
Taste Rating(out of 50): 35.0 Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00
Taste Notes:

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
32 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 96.97 %
8.0 oz Aromatic Malt (26.0 SRM) Grain 1.52 %
8.0 oz White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain 1.52 %
2.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
2.00 oz Pacific Gem [15.00 %] (60 min) Hops 33.7 IBU
2.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
4.00 oz Sterling [7.50 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
2.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (20 min) Hops 13.6 IBU
2.00 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] (20 min) Hops 17.7 IBU
2.00 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] (20 min) Hops 19.1 IBU
2.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (20 min) Hops 7.5 IBU
2.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (10 min) Hops 6.9 IBU
2.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] (10 min) Hops 10.6 IBU
2.00 oz Magnum [14.00 %] (10 min) Hops 11.4 IBU
2.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (1 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1.00 tbsp PH 5.2 Stabilizer (Mash 60.0 min) Misc
2.00 gm Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 min) Misc
10.00 items Beano Tablet in mash (Mash 90.0 min) Misc
10.00 items Beano tablet in primary (Primary 2.0 weeks) Misc
6 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) Yeast-Ale



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.090 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 1.090 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.021 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 9.04 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 10.49 %
Bitterness: 120.6 IBU Calories: 411 cal/pint
Est Color: 6.1 SRM Color: Color


Mash Profile

Mash Name: Temperature Mash, 1 Step, Light Body Total Grain Weight: 33.00 lb
Sparge Water: 3.40 gal Grain Temperature: 72.0 F
Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F TunTemperature: 72.0 F
Adjust Temp for Equipment: FALSE Mash PH: 5.4 PH

Temperature Mash, 1 Step, Light Body Step Time Name Description Step Temp
90 min Saccharification Add 41.25 qt of water at 149.9 F 140.0 F
30 min Mash Out Heat to 168.0 F over 30 min 168.0 F



Mash Notes: Temperature mash for use when mashing in a brew pot over a heat source such as the stove. Use heat to maintain desired temperature during the mash.
Carbonation and Storage

Carbonation Type: Kegged (Forced CO2) Volumes of CO2: 2.4
Pressure/Weight: 8.2 PSI Carbonation Used: -
Keg/Bottling Temperature: 34.0 F Age for: 28.0 days
Storage Temperature: 52.0 F

Notes

Note: 90 min mash @ 140 degrees to provide highly fermentable wort.
Added 10 Beno tablets to mash
Added 10 Beno tablets to primary fermenter @ yeast pitch

 

[z987k]

How many people use dry yeast for most beers and only use something else for the specialty stuff that typically needs a yeast profile?

that's exactly what I do. I also primary in buckets so there's rarely a problem with blow off.

 

[DeathBrewer]

nottingham is awesome. i use it in 50% of my beers now. anything that needs a clean profile and good attenuation.

my hefes all use WLP300, but that will also give you quite an explosive fermentation. Same with WLP550, my fav belgian yeast.

 

[blacklab]

I tend to use safale-05 on most beers, unless I'm going for a special style like hefe or belgian, I don't use liquid yeast. fermentis also makes a dry hefe yeast now-very convenient.

 

[zoebisch01]

I recently made a high gravity brew 1.093. One pack, and in 6 days hit 1.021. Schwing! It may have happened earlier, but I didn't check until the 6th day as I was forced to move it to my basement.

 

[david_42]

I rarely use anything other than dried yeasts. My beers are either hop-oriented or dark & malty.

 

[devaspawn]

I rarely use Liquid yeasts as well. I use nottingham and S-04 most of the time. S-05 and Windsor are used sometimes as well.

 

[BeehiveBrewer]

I poured my barleywine wort onto a S 05 yeast cake (first time doing that), and now I have witnessed an uber active fermentation!

I normally get air lock activity within 5-12 hours and maybe some rapid fire bubbles, but this time I'm getting awesome activity!

I'm using my first blow off tube, and I'm glad I did.

Pretty cool!

I came home from a get-together last night, looked in the tub, and pronounced, "honey, It's Alive!"

Then I cleaned up the mess