New to the forums and Brewing

[Durb4nPoison]

Hey, I recently just acquired 2 home brewing kits that both came with "Columbus hops" and "cascade hops" This is my first time brewing and im trying to see if I can make a double ipa since I have 2 packets of hops and grains each. If so by how much should I add to the original recipe?

Originally it states that I should heat 2.5 quartz of water to 160F. Add grains after that and then cook for 60 minutes at 144 - 152 F.

After this is says to heat up an additional 4 quarts to 170 degrees and states to set up your "lauter tun" and pour the water over the mash to extract the grain sugars, try to collect about 5 quartz and then recirculate wort through grain once.

For the boil it says to heat wort until you've hit the "hot break" and boil for about 60 minutes . First it says to add the whole package of Columbus hops and then add 1/5 of cascade hops every 15 minutes.

Now im assuming that I should use the same amount of water in the original recipe if I wanna make a double, but should I also add exactly double of the grains, Hops, and yeast?

Thanks in advance everyone, I really wanna try to get the best beer I can out of my first brew .

 

[ericinthewoods]

Double/imperial doesn't necessarily mean exactly double. If I were you, and looking back on my first brew, I wouldn't try a super massive beer. I'd go for standard-plus-50% on your grains (maintain the same ratios) and push some of your hop additions toward the end of the boil to maintain balance between bitterness and aroma.

If you decide to forge ahead, get ready to learn how much pressure active yeast can generate. Many of us here have had geysers or busted carboys from incorrectly attempting a high-gravity brew. Either way, I'd probably adjust your fermenting vessel to allow for a blowoff tube instead of a three piece airlock.

I always recommending going big, just be prepared for it to not turn out the way you expect. Take good notes so that you can see what went wrong. The best of the homebrewers I've met are the ones who learn the most from their mistakes.

 

[prpromin]

Congrats and welcome.

There's a little more information that we'll probably need to help you. What equipment do you have? Thermometer, hydrometer, mash tun, fermentation vessel, etc? Is there any malt extract with the kit? Is the grain milled (crushed)? I know you didn't ask specifically about that, but we can give better advice if we know what you're working with.

To answer more directly about water volume - yes and no. You'll need slightly more water, since the grain will absorb some of it. Alternately, you could probably just top up the final volume to match what you should have.

Finally, yeast. Another question you didn't ask - you may need more. Again, depends on the type (liquid or dry) and the total volume and gravity that you're working with.

If any of this is unclear, don't worry. There's a lot to keep track of at first, but after a few brews, you get the process down.

 

[Durb4nPoison]

If you decide to forge ahead, get ready to learn how much pressure active yeast can generate. Many of us here have had geysers or busted carboys from incorrectly attempting a high-gravity brew. Either way, I'd probably adjust your fermenting vessel to allow for a blowoff tube instead of a three piece airlock.

Is the Airlock in the everyday ipa kit from the brooklyn brew shop sufficient for this?

Congrats and welcome.

There's a little more information that we'll probably need to help you. What equipment do you have? Thermometer, hydrometer, mash tun, fermentation vessel, etc? Is there any malt extract with the kit? Is the grain milled (crushed)? I know you didn't ask specifically about that, but we can give better advice if we know what you're working with.

I have 2 "everyday IPA" kits from the Brooklyn brew shop. It comes with a glass fermenting jug, racking cane, thermometer, airlock, a screw-cap stopper, and tubing. The ingredients it comes with is grain, hops, and yeast.

 

[rodwha]

Were I you I'd just make both kits as is. Although the directions may be lacking a bit, and the hop schedule sounds as though it'll produce a very bitter beer.

Hop much hops (weight) of each do you have?

Hope you have a grain bag large enough to handle all of that (sounds like an all-grain recipe), and a thermometer to keep an eye on the temp. Check it every 5 mins or so.

I also hope that you either have fairly soft water or bought plenty of it to help with the water profile.

Do you have the means to buy additional stuff before you brew this in case you do want to change things up?

 

[rodwha]

Is this a 1 gal kit?

It sounds like it'll be incredibly bitter, though I don't know how much hops are included. Were it me I'd change up the hop schedule.

Do you have hop bags too? I didn't see it included or as something to supply yourself.

 

[Durb4nPoison]

Were I you I'd just make both kits as is. Although the directions may be lacking a bit, and the hop schedule sounds as though it'll produce a very bitter beer.

Hop much hops (weight) of each do you have?

Hope you have a grain bag large enough to handle all of that (sounds like an all-grain recipe), and a thermometer to keep an eye on the temp. Check it every 5 mins or so.

I also hope that you either have fairly soft water or bought plenty of it to help with the water profile.

Do you have the means to buy additional stuff before you brew this in case you do want to change things up?

Ya its the 1 gallon kit. The grain bag the kit comes with is 2 lb and 10 ounces so I have 4 lb 20 ounces of grain, the grains consisitancy is ground with what appears to be some sort of seed husks in it. The cascade hops bag it comes with is 5/8 ounces so I have 1 and 2/8 ounces of cascade, and the Columbus hops bag is 1/4 so I have 1/2 and ounce of Columbus. Im also using tap water but the ppms are in the low 50s so it should be alright


edit:
Im in no rush to brew this, if I have to go out and get something to help with this brew it shouldn't be a problem.

 

[rodwha]

Check out Brewtoad calculator.

 

[rodwha]

That thing must be spewing with IBU's!

I just ran a rough idea (2 lbs 2-row, and 0.25 lbs crystal) and put the Columbus at 60 mins, .2 oz @ 20/5 mins and a dry hop and it shows about 80 IBU's, and that ought to be much lower than what they suggest.

 

[rodwha]

You'll want a muslin hop bag for each hop addition, including the dry hop.

I'd almost suggest trying to break down that Columbus addition using the bulk of it at 60 mins, but adding equal parts at 15-20 mins and 5 mins to add to your Cascade additions. Maybe split it equally into 6ths, and add 1/6 to your 15-20 min and 5 min additions. Something to bring down that bitterness.

But maybe that's what you'd like.

 

[Durb4nPoison]

Thanks for the suggestions, gunna grab some of those muslin hop bags this week. But what exactly do you mean by (2 lbs 2-row, and 0.25 lbs crystal?)

 

[rodwha]

You mention 2 1/4 lbs of grains in your kit. I just ran a rough idea of what you had and used that. It should have gotten me into the ballpark of your OG, which will determine how the IBU's work out. Add more sugars and your IBU's will drop a bit.

If you were to add a little more grains or extract you could likely make it an IIPA as is. Especially if you used all of the Cascade @ 15-20/5 mins, and bought some hops for dry hopping. 1 oz split between the two.

 

[rodwha]

Do you know that your grains were crushed/milled for you? If not you'll need them to be. I've heard of smaller amounts being crushed at home with a rolling pin. Just make sure you do a good breaking the hulls throughout.

 

[Durb4nPoison]

You mention 2 1/4 lbs of grains in your kit. I just ran a rough idea of what you had and used that. It should have gotten me into the ballpark of your OG, which will determine how the IBU's work out. Add more sugars and your IBU's will drop a bit.

If you were to add a little more grains or extract you could likely make it an IIPA as is. Especially if you used all of the Cascade @ 15-20/5 mins, and bought some hops for dry hopping. 1 oz split between the two.

I have 5 lb 4 ounces of grains, so should I use the whole 1 3/8 ounces (2 packets of cascade and 2 packets of Columbus) of hops from both kits? I was hoping to get a double or even triple ipa

 

[rodwha]

With the IBU's as I had adjusted them it's already a mild IIPA as far as bitterness. You'd just need to have at least 7.5% ABV so you could in essence buy about 1/4 lb of more grains and another ounce of hops to split between the two beers for dry hopping and use all of the hops you have for the kits they came in.

 

[Durb4nPoison]

Also the grain also seems to be crushed theres some random seed husks but about 95% of it is about the size of a really small pebble. How fine does it have to be ground?

 

[rodwha]

What is your idea of the ideal bitterness? With IPA's there's generally a somewhat even hop schedule or, as the west coast generally does, mostly late hop additions for an extreme hop flavor. Then there's lighter in the spectrum or heavier.

I prefer my IPA's with bunches of late hop additions and at the high end of the IBU's (even been wanting to go well past the 70 IBU's), but with the ABV about mid way.

 

[rodwha]

Not ground, but broken open. There'll be dust too.

 

[Durb4nPoison]

With the IBU's as I had adjusted them it's already a mild IIPA as far as bitterness. You'd just need to have at least 7.5% ABV so you could in essence buy about 1/4 lb of more grains and another ounce of hops to split between the two beers for dry hopping and use all of the hops you have for the kits they came in.

ah ok I get what your saying, thanks for clearing that up :cross:

 

[rodwha]

I also usually go a little lighter than most with my dry hop as I don't care a tremendous amount for the smell per se. I usually just use 1-2 oz and any leftovers in a 5-6 gal batch.

 

[rodwha]

What is your idea of a triple IPA?

 

[rodwha]

If you go buy an oz of additional hops you may rather get something like Amarillo, Centennial, Citra, or Somcoe to use in your late additions and use the Cascade for the dry hop. These are much higher in AA, which brings up the IBU's.

An IIPA starts at 70 (IIRC) and ends at 120 IBU's. As I had adjusted it it was at 80. But if you add a little more grain it'll drop the IBU's a little (maybe 75 or so).

 

[rodwha]

Hops section of MoreBeer:

http://morebeer.com/category/pellet-hops.html

You can check out the flavor profiles and AA% of each. What you have has a citrusy flavor.

 

[rodwha]

If you bought 1/4 lb of grains for each and 1 oz of Amarillo each, and used the Cascade for dry hopping you'd likely end up with ~8.2% ABV and 116 IBU's. This as a more west coast style.

 

[Durb4nPoison]

Hops section of MoreBeer:

http://morebeer.com/category/pellet-hops.html

You can check out the flavor profiles and AA% of each. What you have has a citrusy flavor.

Thanks for the link, I actually was just about to ask where can I get some grains and hops.

If you bought 1/4 lb of grains for each and 1 oz of Amarillo each, and used the Cascade for dry hopping you'd likely end up with ~8.2% ABV and 116 IBU's. This as a more west coast style.

So when you say a quarter pound, you mean to add a qtr pound plus the 2lb bag that came with the kit? and should I completely replace the Columbus with Amarillo?

 

[rodwha]

Add the grains to what you've been given (milled), and keep the Columbus as your first addition (bittering), and split the Amarillo (or other hop that's higher in AA's) in half and use for your flavoring and aroma additions, then use all of the Cascade hops for your dry hop addition (7-10 days).

Do you understand how the dry hop addition works, and when to do it?

 

[rodwha]

Did your kit come with 2 lbs or 2.25 lbs? I thought it was 2.25lbs. If it's only 2 lbs you'd want 1/2 lb of grains.

Crushed (milled) grains are good for just a few months before they begin getting stale. MoreBeer only sells by the lb. If you have a local HBS you can likely buy just the amounts you need.

Are you confident you can maintain the temps as mentioned in the directions? Quite frankly I'd try to keep between 150-155* and not go down into the 140's. Stay well under 170* also.

 

[rodwha]

Did your kit come with 2 lbs or 2.25 lbs? I thought it was 2.25lbs. If it's only 2 lbs you'd want 1/2 lb of grains.

Crushed (milled) grains are good for just a few months before they begin getting stale. MoreBeer only sells by the lb. If you have a local HBS you can likely buy just the amounts you need.

Are you confident you can maintain the temps as mentioned in the directions? Quite frankly I'd try to keep between 150-155* and not go down into the 140's. Stay well under 170* also.

 

[Durb4nPoison]

Add the grains to what you've been given (milled), and keep the Columbus as your first addition (bittering), and split the Amarillo (or other hop that's higher in AA's) in half and use for your flavoring and aroma additions, then use all of the Cascade hops for your dry hop addition (7-10 days).

Do you understand how the dry hop addition works, and when to do it?

Yea I think, just split the cascade and armarillo in 1/6th parts and add it in every 15- 20 minutes and start with the Columbus?

 

[Durb4nPoison]

Did your kit come with 2 lbs or 2.25 lbs? I thought it was 2.25lbs. If it's only 2 lbs you'd want 1/2 lb of grains.

Crushed (milled) grains are good for just a few months before they begin getting stale. MoreBeer only sells by the lb. If you have a local HBS you can likely buy just the amounts you need.

Are you confident you can maintain the temps as mentioned in the directions? Quite frankly I'd try to keep between 150-155* and not go down into the 140's. Stay well under 170* also.

When weighing the grain bag that's still in a plastic bag it came out to 2lbs 10 ounces. Im also pretty confident I can maintain exact temps, my kit came with a thermometer that ill be watching like a hawk the whole time.

 

[rodwha]

I wouldn't go by their hop schedule. Some like doing it that way, and it'd be nice if someone chimed in, but for a more pronounced flavor 20 mins is the best from what I understand, and 5 mins is the aroma addition. And the bittering is at 60 mins. Anything between 20 and 60 mins is a bit of both.

2 lbs 10 oz in the bag? That's probably 2.25 lbs of grains then.

 

[rodwha]

A 30 min addition would be mostly flavorful, but it would also add more to the bitterness. At 45 mins it's somewhat flavorful, but more bitter, and so on.

So if you want more bitter than you could split the Amarillo (or whatever you choose) into 3 parts and do a 5 min, a 15-20 min, and a 30-45 min addition, plus your 60 min addition.

 

[ericinthewoods]

Is the Airlock in the everyday ipa kit from the brooklyn brew shop sufficient for this?

Probably, for up to 8% beers, but if you get a runaway initial fermentation, the krausen will fill up the airlock and then dry and harden, preventing pressure release. If you're not expecting more than 9%, then you're fine. I do every one with a blowoff for primary fermentation.

 

[beergunner]

General question, is distilled water bad to use??

 

[rodwha]

If it's all you are using. Yeast need the nutrients found in regular water. I use it to "water" down my hard water for partial mashes.

 

[beergunner]

My fermentation from a kit seems to have stopped after 4 days??

 

[rodwha]

It doesn't generally take very long to get through the very active portion of fermentation, but that doesn't mean it's done. And once it's done, if left, will go back and clean up the strange things they created and make your beer even better tasting.

As a rule most people let their beer ferment for 3 weeks. I give mine 4 now unless it's a lower gravity beer (<5% or so). The same for my conditioning time.

Wait until 3 weeks and check your gravity reading. If it's close to what the kit states is your FG then you can move on to bottling/kegging.

 

[beergunner]

Thanks, good info

 

[rodwha]

Np!

 

[ericinthewoods]

General question, is distilled water bad to use??

I use publix brand drinking water for my beers, or if we're going for a delicate style, distilled water with certain salts added- it escapes me what they are called and which minerals are in them right now. LHBS has pre mixed packets designed for 5gal batches. Keep in mind that these minerals are distinct from the yeast nutrient that you can also buy.