Just poured 21L down the toilet, would like to know what I did wrong before trying again

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Somebody did that

The approach from that shop seems solid...sell a pack with the common additions and document the recommended additions in each recipe kit.

Honestly, I am surprised there are not better resources with specific guidance on additions when using RO water. Yeah, there is a little bit of a preference in there (150 ppm of Sulfate vs 250 ppm in an IPA...add Sodium/Magnesium or not?), but I feel like it would not be hard (for somebody more knowledgeable than me) to come up with a baseline listing for each style. You might need to tweak the pH based on the grain bill, but I expect even then you could get close.

Personally, I use tap water. Based on the style tables from the Palmer/Kaminski "Water" (p 156 to 159) I came up with some generic additions for those 16 categories of beer that is tailored to my tap water baseline. I use that as a starting point with Bru'N Water and usually make some batch specific tweaks.
 
I feel like it would not be hard (for somebody more knowledgeable than me) to come up with a baseline listing for each style. You might need to tweak the pH based on the grain bill, but I expect even then you could get close.

I haven't found a baseline based on style. There are a number of articles from the early 2010s (some on the web for free, some in magazines) and at least two books (also from the early 2010s) that talk about simple approaches to brewing salt additions. IIRC, most of the approaches use SRM or hoppy / malty for the suggestions.
 
I haven't found a baseline based on style. There are a number of articles from the early 2010s (some on the web for free, some in magazines) and at least two books (also from the early 2010s) that talk about simple approaches to brewing salt additions. IIRC, most of the approaches use SRM or hoppy / malty for the suggestions.

The tables in "Water" seem kinda reasonable. There are 16 different groupings based on:
  • Ale/Lager
  • Alcohol Level (Light/Medium/Strong)
  • Color (Pale/Amber/Brown,Black)
  • Bitterness (Soft/Moderate/Assertive)
The book then goes one step further to list specific styles for each of the 16 groupings listed. In some cases the book highlights outliner styles. While I have found this table to be very useful, it has flaws. The biggest being that some grouping have very wide ranges (Sulfate 100-400 or Chloride 0-100).
 
The tables in "Water" seem kinda reasonable.

Thanks! For those willing to work with Ca, SO4, and PPM, this looks like a good resource.

At the moment, I'm reading/thinking/brewing at the "gypsum and grams" level - some of the articles/books I mentioned make it easy to just measure the desired amount of an item and add it to RO water.

Good beer is likely to be made either way.
 
Thanks! For those willing to work with Ca, SO4, and PPM, this looks like a good resource.

At the moment, I'm reading/thinking/brewing at the "gypsum and grams" level - some of the articles/books I mentioned make it easy to just measure the desired amount of an item and add it to RO water.

Good beer is likely to be made either way.

RO plus salts will be more reliable than what I do for sure. I know there is variability in my tap water depending on which wells are being used and whether or not the water authority has recently done a big chlorine treatment. But it’s always soft and I always treat with campden as I don’t trust my nose/taste when it comes to chlorine.

Im still with the crowd that says water chemistry is not the issue here when OP boiled un crushed grain as part of his process.
 
Im still with the crowd that says water chemistry is not the issue here when OP boiled un crushed grain as part of his process.

I'm OK with that. OP did ask about tap water in their initial post ...

Questions:
Was tap water okay to use? Where I live the tap water is what we drink.

... so a discussion on tap water in this topic seems reasonable to me.

Starting around reply 75, the topic drifted towards ideas for "simple" approaches for brewing salts / water chemistry. The idea of having BIAB recipes where one can use RO water and measure grams of brewing salts certainly has appeal.
 
Jesus guys.....the OP isn't boiling, isn't milling, has zero understanding of yeast pitch temps, and you're arguing over the water????? Let the guy get a basic understanding of brewing first before you move to improvements in the beer.

btw, why does he say in his first post:
Poured 5.5LBs of 2 row malt into a grain bag
Put that grain bag into the boiled water

I just want to make sure that this "grain bag" isn't the one in the original picture and that's its a real BIAB bag of some sort.


.
 
The original post has the distinct odor of a troll. In July the same person made a post asking if it was OK to use steam rolled animal feed for malting. It's months later and he doesn't know that wort gets boiled? Come on people, it's best not to feed the trolls. Just ignore them.
 
The original post has the distinct odor of a troll. In July the same person made a post asking if it was OK to use steam rolled animal feed for malting. It's months later and he doesn't know that wort gets boiled? Come on people, it's best not to feed the trolls. Just ignore them.

I disagree. This is way too much work for trolling. Check out this thread. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/can-i-just-half-a-recipe.669955/

It's linked to the same recipe. I really don't understand how that whole conversation went on with @BrewingNoobing not saying wait a minute I don't follow what you are saying. Hopefully we haven't scared him off for good.
 
In July the same person made a post asking if it was OK to use steam rolled animal feed for malting.

You got me worried that the bag in the post was some grain feed...but looks to be Canada Malting Co. Limited (a brand I have never used). I still have not quite figured out if that ziploc baggie is related to the brewing.
 
Ya it seems legit tbh not sure why you think it’s a troll job

How many "noobs" you know start out with 55lb sacks of grain? How many noobs you know just totally make up a process that is at odds with all the easily accessible basic brewing information that's available? Face it, you've been trolled.

I disagree. This is way too much work for trolling. Check out this thread. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/can-i-just-half-a-recipe.669955/

It's linked to the same recipe. I really don't understand how that whole conversation went on with @BrewingNoobing not saying wait a minute I don't follow what you are saying. Hopefully we haven't scared him off for good.

It's not much work at all to set up a good troll. This effort was mediocre, and it's gotten three pages of responses.

BTW, that recipe you mention clearly states that a boil is needed, yet in this post he's made up a scenario where he doesn't know boiling is needed.

You've been trolled.
 
Jesus guys.....the OP isn't boiling, isn't milling, has zero understanding of yeast pitch temps, and you're arguing over the water????? Let the guy get a basic understanding of brewing first before you move to improvements in the beer.

btw, why does he say in his first post:


I just want to make sure that this "grain bag" isn't the one in the original picture and that's its a real BIAB bag of some sort.


.

Agreed. You guys need to pull your heads up and look around. This is the beginners forum. My goodness, the arguments about water chemistry when there is mold/infection present in the fermentor. Calling the OP a troll. Just embarrassing seeing this in our noobie forum. Closed.
 
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