Can you post a wire schematic of the control box. And what are the dimension of the control box
Where's my sunglasses?
But. I don't get it with un-insulated hoses. Don't you lose temp?
How did you wire in the volt/amp meter? I like that little meter. I have noticed major swings in voltage in my power supply depending on the day. When I start heating my strike water I usually probe my power input with a multimeter. This would be much easier.
I hate to ask such a stupid question but where did you get the sweet whirlpool arm?
Hello what type of relays did you use
Unrelated to the build. How did you put so many pictures in one post. I thought the limit is 10? Just curious.
Do you have the little plastic mypin supporters always falling off? I can't get mine to lock up. Been thinking about tapping them to the sides of the PID...
Is there anything you would change or do different? I'm currently building an eherms, except my keggles are bottom draining. I would appreciate any words of wisdom you have to offer.
What type of control panel receptacles did you use for the heating elements?
Todd
L6-30R and L6-30P
I'm following your wiring diagram but seem to have hit a mental block. From the element off-on switch to the 3 way selector switch (hlt/off/mash) it shows the lights coming from the top left & right but then it shows bridging the two wires to go to the 3 way switch for the hlt/off/boil. Wouldn't this cause both the hlt & mash lights to indicate on all of the time? Unless the switch is in the off position.
I'M following your diagram but taking your suggestions of using the same pid controllers and I've added an auber timer.
Hopefully you are still following this thread.
Curious on what side bit or knock out you used for your 1/2 and 1/4 couplings in your kegs?
Yes that does answer a lot. Thanks for your time.I think you're talking about the green line that goes to the bottom 2 contactor blocks on the "PID Select Switch"? If so, here is the explanation:
In those 3-way switches all the contactor blocks are NO (normally open).
The switch has 3 positions, when the switch is in the center all the contactor blocks are disengaged, all NO in this case.
When the switch is to the left the contactors on the left are closed completing the circuit on the HLT SSR Feed and the HLT PID LED while keeping the contactors on the right side of the switch open.
When the switch is to the right the contactors on the right side are closed completing the circuit on the Mash SSR Feed and the Mash PID LED while keeping the contactors on the left side of the switch open.
In the case of the bridged LED wire, you are supplying power to both contactors simultaneously but you are only activating one at a time because of the nature of the 3-way switch.
I hope this clears it up, and I hope that was the right switch, haha.
Also, did you buy your controllers yet? Auber has a new really cool boil controller with a dial that I think would be better than the PID for controlling the boil. I just bought one to put in my new E-BIAB setup that I'm making for my small apartment. I haven't used it yet but the description of it sounds really awesome... I just wish it had a temperature display. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=53&products_id=444
Let me know if you have any other questions,
Alex.
Your 3 way 2NO switches look different than mine. Mine only have 4 terminal openings but yours looks like it is stacked and has 8. Is this just a bad angle? This is the style that I have.
Thank you. After zooming into your photo I figured it out. I took another switch apart and realized that's what it was. I'm waiting on those parts and then I'm done the control panel. I was wondering, if I sent you a schematic of what I did with my timer, would you give it a look through just to make sure I'm good before I fire it up and fry something?You can buy more contactor blocks and screw them into the bottom, the possibilities are pretty much endless.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-TELEME...906653?hash=item5650fc68dd:g:RPUAAOxyaURTgphT
Thank you. After zooming into your photo I figured it out. I took another switch apart and realized that's what it was. I'm waiting on those parts and then I'm done the control panel. I was wondering, if I sent you a schematic of what I did with my timer, would you give it a look through just to make sure I'm good before I fire it up and fry something?
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