HOWTO - Make a BrewPi Fermentation Controller For Cheap

[day_trippr]

fwiw, BrewPi "devices" assigned to Arduino pins 2, 4, 5, 6 and A5 are hard coded. BrewPi doesn't actually do "auto-detection" of anything other than temperature sensors (mostly because there isn't a reliable way to identify a connection to a relay board or SSR control line).

I just proved that's the case with pins 5 & 6 to my two channel relay board: even if they're not connected the "devices" show up in the list...

Cheers!

 

[Herb3]

fwiw, BrewPi "devices" assigned to Arduino pins 2, 4, 5, 6 and A5 are hard coded. BrewPi doesn't actually do "auto-detection" of anything other than temperature sensors (mostly because there isn't a reliable way to identify a connection to a relay board or SSR control line).

I just proved that's the case with pins 5 & 6 to my two channel relay board: even if they're not connected the "devices" show up in the list...

Cheers!

Thanks day_trippr. Looks like I got a bad probe. I only had one of the 2 I ordered hooked up for initial testing. I hooked up the other one and I now at least have a temp sensor reading.

 

[stewart194]

Thanks for the reply Day_Trippr. The power cords came from work out of an old box I had lying around. One was off of an old HP server, the other from an old iMac computer. Looking it up on Google it appears that I can use these though...they just won't be Black, White, and Green like in the drawing. I didn't mean Red when I wrote that. Sorry!

As for the GFCI outlet, it has two screws on each side and then a green colored screw on the bottom for ground, but I'll just go buy a standard one just to be safe.

As for the fermentation time for my brews, I think it takes so long because I'm shocking the yeast every time I add ice bottles to keep the temp under control. I never have the time to watch them all day so I add enough bottles to maintain it while I'm at work. Can't wait to see how much time this shaves off.

Thanks again!

 

[day_trippr]

Ok, the salvaged wire would be fine - if the gauge is sufficient. A lot of peecee wiring is 16-18 gauge which I'd consider under-gunned for running a compressor.

The GFCI outlet has one pair of screws for the LINE side connections to the home power supply, and one pair for LOAD side connections to daisy-chained outlets or switches to be protected by the same GFCI circuit. So you can't split the duplex outlets.

Otherwise, your yeast are going to be a LOT happier not getting stunned every few hours

Cheers!

 

[stewart194]

Ok, the salvaged wire would be fine - if the gauge is sufficient. A lot of peecee wiring is 16-18 gauge which I'd consider under-gunned for running a compressor.

The GFCI outlet has one pair of screws for the LINE side connections to the home power supply, and one pair for LOAD side connections to daisy-chained outlets or switches to be protected by the same GFCI circuit. So you can't split the duplex outlets.

Otherwise, your yeast are going to be a LOT happier not getting stunned every few hours

Cheers!

Yeah this is from a standard power supply in a computer, the regular power cord that goes from the back of the computer to the wall outlet. Should be the standard gauge I would think.

But I went out to my garage and found a standard power outlet that isn't one of the GFI style with the reset switch in it. I see the brass tab connecting them. Do I just take it off on the side with the red wires coming off of it or the other side also?

 

[Herb3]

Yeah this is from a standard power supply in a computer, the regular power cord that goes from the back of the computer to the wall outlet. Should be the standard gauge I would think.

But I went out to my garage and found a standard power outlet that isn't one of the GFI style with the reset switch in it. I see the brass tab connecting them. Do I just take it off on the side with the red wires coming off of it or the other side also?

Yes break the tab between the brass screws. That is the hot side of the outlet. You can leave the tab connect on the other side between the silver screws. That side is your neutral.

 

[stewart194]

Yes break the tab between the brass screws. That is the hot side of the outlet. You can leave the tab connect on the other side between the silver screws. That side is your neutral.

Thanks! Just making sure I don't fry this thing!

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

Yeah this is from a standard power supply in a computer, the regular power cord that goes from the back of the computer to the wall outlet. Should be the standard gauge I would think.

But I went out to my garage and found a standard power outlet that isn't one of the GFI style with the reset switch in it. I see the brass tab connecting them. Do I just take it off on the side with the red wires coming off of it or the other side also?

Just take some needle nose pliers or something and grab the sucker and twist, it will snap the metal bit right off between them.

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

Thanks day_trippr. Looks like I got a bad probe. I only had one of the 2 I ordered hooked up for initial testing. I hooked up the other one and I now at least have a temp sensor reading.

Did we ever figure out your relay issue?

 

[Herb3]

Did we ever figure out your relay issue?

Yes once I got my one good temp sensor working I was able to figure out the relays and get it all set up.

Thanks!

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

What was the issue? Im getting everyones stuff confused Just as reference incase anyone in the future has the same problem.

Was it a bad temp sensor preventing the other pins from getting read properly or something?

 

[Herb3]

What was the issue? Im getting everyones stuff confused Just as reference incase anyone in the future has the same problem.

Was it a bad temp sensor preventing the other pins from getting read properly or something?

No everything was fine but the one temp sensor I installed just to test it out. Once I installed my other temp sensor and got a reading I was able to figure out the rest of the configuration. My SSR's where wired right and showing up but the lack of a temp reading was screwing me up

 

[gezzanet]

Great job, gezzanet. I just finished up my arduino sheild this morning. I love the ministereo solution! I'm going to steal that for my enclosure. Don't you need switches on those outlets in Australia? Have a Tim Tam for me.

Don't need it switched according to my lecky. Either way it's already switched by the input power lead and wall switch. Worse case is I could put in a switched wall plate on the box. Wiring colours here are brown (active), blue (neutral) and green ( earth). International wire in colours used in oz as std for some years now.
Just picked up my thermowell so putting down a brew this weekend.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[gezzanet]

Picked up a small cheap heater off ebay. The ones fuzze used cost a bit to freight to oz through amazon. Supposed to be 200w. I wonder if it will last a brew cycle. Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

Picked up a small cheap heater off ebay. The ones fuzze used cost a bit to freight to oz through amazon. Supposed to be 200w. I wonder if it will last a brew cycle. LolView attachment 207805


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Had to double check on google that the heater actually had a power cable lol, that thing looks great and should work just fine.

The Lasko is 200W as well with a fan, so it should be identical.
Having a fan helps a lot to just keep all the hot air from rising to the top of the chamber, depending on where your fridge probe is I could maybe see this screwing things up.

 

[cool77]

Geezanet thanks for sharing it. I found some on eBay but most did not list the voltage requirement. A lot are 220V and 200W. I found one mentionning it' a us plug but did not work @ 110V!?!

It seems really interesting for the price. So I asked question about US plug and 110V. Let you know.

 

[balrog]

The Lasko is 200W as well with a fan, so it should be identical. Having a fan helps a lot to just keep all the hot air from rising to the top of the chamber, depending on where your fridge probe is I could maybe see this screwing things up.

+1

I put a PC case fan using old phone wall wort for this reason, but fan is 12v, power is 5v, and while it runs, it's not pushing much air around, and I have seen up to a couple degrees diff between the BrewPi chamber probe and the little 16K point data logger I also stick in there (just because I have it), or exact agreement, so I'm still playing with chamber probe placement and toying with fan alternates.

 

[stewart194]

Hey guys -

I have everything wired up now except the temp probes. My temp probes have black, red, and white wires. Fuzze's drawing shows green, black, and orange. Which ones are VCC, Data, and GND on my temp probes?

Also, what does VCC stand for?

 

[Dolomieu]

For anyone interested, I built a case for my BrewPi using Inventor and published STL files to Thingiverse. If you have access to a 3D printer and would like something pretty for your BrewPi, print away!

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:360709

First off, Thank You so much for sharing!! I found 3dhub .com and there is a guys that will print it off for about twice what you stated. So for about $18 buck he'll print it off on his high res printer.

Before I pull the trigger though I was wondering if it would be a pain to add another outlet opening and of course expand the enclosure to make room for it. Here is my thinking on that. I would like to run one power cable in to the enclosure, have one alway on duplex and one split for hot and cold(as per the instructions). This way i would be able to plug the pi in right at the box and use the other outlet to maybe run a computer.

My freezer sits right in front of my outlet and the STC1000 builds i've done i've had an always on that has come in handy for fans, air pumps, etc... but this things is just a much slicker case than the grey outdoor boxes i've been using from lowes.

Also i have no clue as to what software is used to design this like that or if there is a freeware version. any one know?

 

[day_trippr]

Hey guys -

I have everything wired up now except the temp probes. My temp probes have black, red, and white wires. Fuzze's drawing shows green, black, and orange. Which ones are VCC, Data, and GND on my temp probes?

Red is 5 volts DC
White is data
Black is DC ground

Also, what does VCC stand for?

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/IC_power-supply_pin

Cheers!

 

[stewart194]

Just re-read this entire thread for probably the 5th time and found where BrewerJack mentions that they are probably this.

Red - Vcc
Black - Ground
White - Data

I'll give this a shot

 

[stewart194]

Red is 5 volts DC
White is data
Black is DC ground



http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/IC_power-supply_pin

Cheers!

Thanks! Just found this buried in the thread also. I'll give it go and see what happens.

 

[stewart194]

Another quick question. Which outlet do I plug the heater in and which one do I plug the fridge into?

Thanks again!

 

[Dolomieu]

Another quick question. Which outlet do I plug the heater in and which one do I plug the fridge into?

Thanks again!

This will depend on your wiring. It's best to have the cold be the bottom plug of the duplex because of the 90 degree plug usually found on freezers. you can figure it out by adjusting your set point and checking the plugs by a light or voltage meter.

 

[stewart194]

This will depend on your wiring. It's best to have the cold be the bottom plug of the duplex because of the 90 degree plug usually found on freezers. you can figure it out by adjusting your set point and checking the plugs by a light or voltage meter.

Thanks Dolomieu. My fridge has that same 90 plug so I put it on the bottom socket. I wired just like Fuzze's diagram suggested.

 

[Dolomieu]

I set mine up just like Fuzze had in his diagram too and the bottom was for the freezer. YMMV

 

[stewart194]

Hey guys -

I plugged everything in and fired it up. I get about 5 things listed under detected devices but nothing showing me a temperature reading. Under the function option I have Chamber Heater, Chamber Cooler, Chamber Light, & Chamber Fan. They all show up as "Switch Actuator" and none of them say "Temp Sensor". I can assign them slots and hit apply, and they do show up then as "installed devices"...but clearly something is wrong is here.

I think I have everything wired up correctly also...unless the color scheme on my temp sensors are wrong. What should I try next?

Thanks!

 

[Herb3]

Hey guys -

I plugged everything in and fired it up. I get about 5 things listed under detected devices but nothing showing me a temperature reading. Under the function option I have Chamber Heater, Chamber Cooler, Chamber Light, & Chamber Fan. They all show up as "Switch Actuator" and none of them say "Temp Sensor". I can assign them slots and hit apply, and they do show up then as "installed devices"...but clearly something is wrong is here.

I think I have everything wired up correctly also...unless the color scheme on my temp sensors are wrong. What should I try next?

Thanks!

Did you include the 4.7 resistor for the temp probes?

 

[stewart194]

Did you include the 4.7 resistor for the temp probes?

Yes I did.

 

[stewart194]

The only thing that looks odd to me, possibly, is that under the devices I have 2 that show 5(Act2) under Arduino Pin. All 4 installed devices say inactive also.

 

[stewart194]

Nothing shows up under Pin Type either. It just shows the default drop down menu that says "Inverted".

 

[day_trippr]

You might try reprogramming the Arduino AVR. The first time I programmed an Uno with the BrewPi microcode the serial eeprom didn't get reset properly and the only symptoms involved device recognition and saving my setup.

Otherwise are you sure you're seeing two devices on one Arduino pin (other than One-Wire devices)? That seems unpossible...

Cheers!

[edit]
ps: most of the problems folks have had with BrewPi can be binned to file ownership/permissions issues.
If you did a stock, automatic install there's a script that will rip through the various BrewPi folders and straighten those out.

$ sudo /home/brewpi/utils/fixPermissions.sh

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

This will depend on your wiring. It's best to have the cold be the bottom plug of the duplex because of the 90 degree plug usually found on freezers. you can figure it out by adjusting your set point and checking the plugs by a light or voltage meter.

FWIW its affected by wiring, but can be swapped via the Device config. So it doesnt really matter which one is heat/cold when you first set it up, if its backwards just reverse the Chamber Heater and Chamber Cooler in the Device config in BrewPi.

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

Hey guys -

I plugged everything in and fired it up. I get about 5 things listed under detected devices but nothing showing me a temperature reading. Under the function option I have Chamber Heater, Chamber Cooler, Chamber Light, & Chamber Fan. They all show up as "Switch Actuator" and none of them say "Temp Sensor". I can assign them slots and hit apply, and they do show up then as "installed devices"...but clearly something is wrong is here.

I think I have everything wired up correctly also...unless the color scheme on my temp sensors are wrong. What should I try next?

Thanks!

The only way to know if the sensors are plugged in properly is to check the Read values checkbox in the top right of the Device Configuration screen, then hit refresh. Then look for sensors that show a value...probably between 16-20 something because its in Celcius by default. They should show up on Pin A4(OneWire)

 

[stewart194]

FWIW its affected by wiring, but can be swapped via the Device config. So it doesnt really matter which one is heat/cold when you first set it up, if its backwards just reverse the Chamber Heater and Chamber Cooler in the Device config in BrewPi.

Thanks Fuzze! Good to know.

 

[stewart194]

The only way to know if the sensors are plugged in properly is to check the Read values checkbox in the top right of the Device Configuration screen, then hit refresh. Then look for sensors that show a value...probably between 16-20 something because its in Celcius by default. They should show up on Pin A4(OneWire)

Thanks man. I'll double check this tomorrow and make sure it's wired properly. If it is, I'll try to rewire the sensors and just see what happens.

Thanks again!

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, I have 12 ds18b20 sensors all with the same red/white/black = 5V/data/GND wiring...

Cheers!

 

[stewart194]

You might try reprogramming the Arduino AVR. The first time I programmed an Uno with the BrewPi microcode the serial eeprom didn't get reset properly and the only symptoms involved device recognition and saving my setup.

Otherwise are you sure you're seeing two devices on one Arduino pin (other than One-Wire devices)? That seems unpossible...

Cheers!

[edit]
ps: most of the problems folks have had with BrewPi can be binned to file ownership/permissions issues.
If you did a stock, automatic install there's a script that will rip through the various BrewPi folders and straighten those out.

$ sudo /home/brewpi/utils/fixPermissions.sh

Thanks man. I'll make sure that everything is wired properly tomorrow, but I honestly think it is. When you say "reprogram" the Arduino do you mean just reloading the hex file to it? If so, maybe I'll try that again before I start rewiring the sensors.

 

[Dolomieu]

FWIW its affected by wiring, but can be swapped via the Device config. So it doesnt really matter which one is heat/cold when you first set it up, if its backwards just reverse the Chamber Heater and Chamber Cooler in the Device config in BrewPi.

That's good to know, thanks!

 

[stewart194]

I tried swapping the sensor wires around as described here. http://www.brewpi.com/attention-new-temp-sensors-have-colors-swapped/

But when I plugged everything in, the lights on the Arduino would instantly go dim and then off. It wouldn't register with the PC either. I switched them back and Arduino instantly started working again...lights flashing, talking to the PC, etc...

Clearly I had the wires correct the first time right? I also double checked all of my wiring and everything looks good.