Is it possible that I have the wrong type of LCD? It's a 2004A 20x4, no backpack... I've tried two separate displays.
Is it possible that he forgot to dial in the pot
No backpack means it's a standard non i2c. But without pictures there's no way to be sure.
There's more than one diagram on this thread and multiple more if you are following the bluetooth and cheapo brewpi threads too.
The one I originally followed was from the OP at the very first post. Just not sure why that wasn't working for me.
EDIT: The original schematic is wrong as far as I can tell! Pins 10 and 15 of the shift register are swapped in the original post diagram and in the photo of the breadboard in the original post they are correct! Not sure how no one noticed that until now?
There's an intrinsic issue with the way the forums are managed that prevents editing/updating a post after some time - I think it's a month. It's a pita but we're stuck with it, otherwise I would always roll all the updates/revisions into the original post.
At some time it might be better if I start a new thread with all the updated stuff at the head, but from the example given with the RaspberryPints project, folks would still be asking questions in the old thread
Anyway, glad you're up and running...
Cheers!
If your feeling up to it some time please make a page on the new Wikia i created
http://diybrewpi.wikia.com
Once i get around to finishing the rest of the main build i'll setup links to all the additional instructions you guys post.
Its for this same reason i created the Wikia because the main BrewPi thread is way too long to be of use, and i feel like people are continuing to answer the same questions over and over that have been posted 3-6 months ago.
I have built a brewpi with LCD from the schematic (thanks for all your work along with Elco and co) using a '328P instead of an Arduino and connected it to the Pi serial port on the GPIO connector to save cost. I have the issues others have with the corrupt display after the relays have switched a couple of times, I have a few ideas on how to solve this so built a second to test them out. I have used the PNP transistor variant to run the backlight. On the latest schematic it shows the collector connected to the 5v rail, should this be the emitter? I don't know how I didn't spot it on the first build but did on the second!
I bought a bare rotary encoder from Amazon which has 5 connections - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KHTLY7M/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
The two GNDs can share a single cable to GND and the push button goes to D7 with the left/right to D8 and D9.
Are you saying that the special hex file for the AVR doesn't support the rotary encoder?
Cheers!
Are you saying that the special hex file for the AVR doesn't support the rotary encoder?
Cheers!
Apparently not having a rotary encoder was totally screwing up the BrewPi code they rewrote because it was expecting one and causing millions of trigger annotations that happen when you spin the rotary, so many that within a minute or two of starting a new brew the webpage wouldnt load anymore because the graph couldnt render the millions of annotations on top of eachother. I only got this 4 minute picture because i left my browser on overnight and it finally rendered some hours later.
As of yet I haven't been able to find a way to include a rotary encoder alongside a pre-built I2C LCD. The rotary encoder code from the original .hex file is unaltered as far as I can tell.
The original hex from Vasco works with a rotary encoder although all you really need is a push switch to D7 to wake the display
First of all, it's very nice to hear from you both, I've really enjoyed reading all your posts while working on this project. You've been very helpful, thank-you.
As of yet I haven't been able to find a way to include a rotary encoder alongside a pre-built I2C LCD. The rotary encoder code from the original .hex file is unaltered as far as I can tell.
I'm quite glad that I haven't run into this bug! I would hypothesize that I've avoided this because a potentiometer (to control LCD dimming) is included on the SainSmart LCD I'm using. (In blue in the top right corner of the following picture)
Unfortunately, adjusting this potentiometer does not reset the backlight timer. Adding a functioning potentiometer to this setup while preferably keeping it solderless would be a welcome improvement. Any ideas ?
i bought these rotary encoders on ebay. they already have 10k resistors on them
Rotary Encoder Module Brick Sensor Development Board For Arduino #100NEW http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rotary-Enco...uino-/310702417391?roken=cUgayN&soutkn=7OSfQ4
Always love coming back to this thread. I've found yet another way to scramble the display... I was trying to use my RPI to play some music simply plugging audio jack into the RPI, every time the display cycles or updates the temp it would scramble the screen. Unplug it it's back to normal so a quick fix really.
Would the audio jack leech power even if no sound was coming through it?
That's the same encoder I bought. I assumed that since the 3 pull up resisters were on the board that I could just use the caps alone but it doesn't work. How did you do yours?
That's the same encoder I bought. I assumed that since the 3 pull up resisters were on the board that I could just use the caps alone but it doesn't work. How did you do yours?
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