Help reading boil wort instructions

[RichardCooper]

Hi,

I bought a all grain malt kit to brew, I have doubts in the instructions. According to the instructions, I have to fly sparge for for 75 min at 65 c temperature. The problem is on the "boil wort" instructions doesn't any reference about the time to boil or temperature, only volume and gravity expected.

My doubt is knowing the amount of time and temperature for boiling after the fly sparge. Can anyone help me on that?

Thanks in advance

 

[GrogNerd]

typically boil for 60 minutes, or as long as your longest hop addition

if you're using pilsner malt, 90 minutes is suggested to drive off DMS precursors

 

[RM-MN]

You don't have to fly sparge for 75 minutes if you don't want. There will be very little difference in the efficiency if you batch sparge instead and you will save about 2 hours doing so. When your mash is done, drain the tun, add sparge water and stir well, then immediately drain again and begin heating to boil. You don't need to heat to mash out and wait the 10 minutes nor try to stretch a fly sparge to 75 minutes while maintaining the proper water temp. Much easier.

 

[frazier]

Regarding your question about boiling temperature: 212* at sea level. It is what it is.

That said, if you increase the burner temp, you will move to a stronger, more vigorous boil. Try to get a rolling boil without boiling over. Eventually you will get the hang of your system, and be able to predict / control the amount of boil-off during the 60 minute boil.

This will be a great learning experience, at the end of which, you will have beer. How cool is that!

Cheers,

 

[kh54s10]

You need more information than given. I assume there are hops. You need to know which ones to add when to get the right balance of bitterness, flavor and aroma. If that is not given I would contact the kit maker and get it. If you don't you could make a beer that is either not bitter, too bitter, too hoppy or not hoppy.

You don't have to fly sparge at all, you can batch sparge, or even do a no sparge.

And boiling is 212 degrees at sea level no matter how much heat you apply. The only change would be your boil off rate.

 

[Puddlethumper]

Hi,

I bought a all grain malt kit to brew, I have doubts in the instructions. According to the instructions, I have to fly sparge for for 75 min at 65 c temperature. The problem is on the "boil wort" instructions doesn't any reference about the time to boil or temperature, only volume and gravity expected.

My doubt is knowing the amount of time and temperature for boiling after the fly sparge. Can anyone help me on that?

Thanks in advance

Some brewers boil the wort until they hit the gravity reading and volume they are looking for. This may be what that kit maker was thinking. The problem with going at it that way is that it takes a lot of experience to get everything to work out. You'll need to know your boil-off rate and anticipate the loss and figure that against the pre-boil S.G. This process is far too complex for someone who is just learning to make beer.

Far better as an entry level brewer is the simple single infusion mash + batch sparge process as recommended by others above:

Add 165F mash water to your mash tun at the rate of 1.25 qts. of water per pound of grain. Stir in the grain breaking up any dough-balls that form. Cover the tun and try to hold the resultant 152-154F temperature (or whatever the recipe calls for) for 60 minutes. Drain it off into your boil kettle. Figure out how much more liquid you'll need to make your 6 1/2 gal. pre-boil volume and add that much water at 175-180F to the mash tun and stir it in. Some will say to drain immediately, others say to let it set 15 min. At any rate, drain it off when done then bring everything up to a boil and add your hops. From there just follow the recipe for hop additions, etc.

Once you've done this a few times you'll begin to figure out if the 6.5 gal. pre-boil volume is too much, too little or just right. Same with the strike water for the mash as you may find you prefer a little looser (wetter) or stiffer (dryer) mash. But use those numbers to start and then adjust from there as you gain experience.

Good luck!

 

[kh54s10]

6 1/2 gallons may not work. I need 7 gallons to end up with 5 gallons for my system. Also the OP might not have any information about the hop additions. If so I would not start this kit without getting that figured out first.

 

[Puddlethumper]

6 1/2 gallons may not work. I need 7 gallons to end up with 5 gallons for my system. Also the OP might not have any information about the hop additions. If so I would not start this kit without getting that figured out first.

Agreed. He definitely needs hop instructions if he doesn't have them. However, boil-off rates vary a lot. If I end up with 7 gal. it automatically turns into a 75 minute boil. I believe the 6.5 gal pre-boil is a safe choice for a first time brewer. He can always top it off if he looses a little more than anticipated.

Cheers!

 

[RichardCooper]

Hi,

Thanks for every one for replying!

Here is a copy of my instructions:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gmhz2mp5cg27p2x/2014-07-12%2020.02.51.jpg

The reference i find is gravity, but that way i dont know how to had the hops.

Thanks again,

Cheers

 

[GrogNerd]

lists 2 hop additions, one you boil for 90 minutes, the other for 15

so, once your wort comes to a boil, add the Styrian Goldings

75 minutes later, add the East Kent Goldings.

15 minutes later, you're done boiling

the 90-minute boil is because you're using pilsner malt. longer boil is required to drive off DMS precursors

 

[RichardCooper]

lists 2 hop additions, one you boil for 90 minutes, the other for 15

so, once your wort comes to a boil, add the Styrian Goldings

75 minutes later, add the East Kent Goldings.

15 minutes later, you're done boiling

the 90-minute boil is because you're using pilsner malt. longer boil is required to drive off DMS precursors

View attachment 210866

Thanks a lot, that really help me.

Any idea a how long should the fly sparge take?

Cheers

 

[kh54s10]

That is a Beersmith recipe software page. It is enough information to brew. The software though is set up for a particular equipment setup. I use it and have it tuned to my system and batch sparging. As to the volume, it usually depends on your system's boil of rate. I lose 2 gallons per hour. 1.5 gallons per hour is more common.

I agree with GrogNerd. The 90 minute boil is because of the Pilsner malt and the hop timing is listed. You could batch sparge if you wanted to. You just need to add the amount of sparge water to get the proper preboil volume.

The mash time is 75 minutes, if you fly sparge it doesn't have to take that long. I would go slow enough to make it last 45 minutes to an hour.

If you have not done this before I would look for some all grain YouTube videos and watch a few. IMO, batch sparging is much easier. (you may lose a bit of efficiency)

 

[GrogNerd]

I batch sparge, so really couldn't say.

all I know is to go slow to prevent channeling. slow drain and add water at the top slow enough to keep a couple inches above the grain bed and it's done when it's done.

sorry that's not very helpful

 

[Puddlethumper]

Agreed with the above. The recipe tells you everything you need to know. With a little more experience these things will jump out at you.

Are you set up to do a fly sparge? If not, I would still suggest a batch sparge, especially since you are new to brewing.

 

[RichardCooper]

Agreed with the above. The recipe tells you everything you need to know. With a little more experience these things will jump out at you.

Are you set up to do a fly sparge? If not, I would still suggest a batch sparge, especially since you are new to brewing.

Yes i have the fly sparge. I still don't find the boil temperature for the 90 min. Or is the same on the "mash step"?

 

[icebob]

like said before, boil is 212 at sea level, you just heat it up until you have a rolling boil, when you get to that point adjust your heat source to maintain a good rolling boil...

 

[Puddlethumper]

Yes i have the fly sparge. I still don't find the boil temperature for the 90 min. Or is the same on the "mash step"?

Boiling is boiling. 212F. You are looking for a rolling boil where the top of the wort is fully involved in the rolling action of the boil but without foaming up and boiling over.

You boil the wort only after it has been drained from the mash tun.

I'd suggest you check out a couple "how-to" videos on all grain brewing on YouTube or at a distributor's site such as Midwest or Northern Brewer. Once you watch the process all the way through it should make more sense to you.

 

[RichardCooper]

Hi,

Made my first batch! Its a Belgian dubble, but the smell that comes out from the fridge, is bitter like sour. Is it normal?

 

[kh54s10]

The smells from fermentation can range from sulphur to rotten eggs to amazingly good. Don't get worried about the smell unless it is bad after the fermentation has ended.

Don't ferment to time. Wait at least 10 days (2-3 weeks is better) then take a hydrometer reading. Wait 2 days and take another, then if the numbers are the same you can bottle the beer.

 

[RichardCooper]

Hi,

Don't ferment to time. Wait at least 10 days (2-3 weeks is better) then take a hydrometer reading. Wait 2 days and take another, then if the numbers are the same you can bottle the beer.

10 days for the 1 fermentation? Is a bit to much? My instrutions says 4 days, then pass to the 2 fermenter.

Thanks,

 

[Puddlethumper]

10 days for the 1 fermentation? Is a bit to much? My instrutions says 4 days, then pass to the 2 fermenter.

Disregard those instructions. As a beginning brewer I would suggest you allow the beer to stay in the primary fermenter at least two full weeks (14 days). Skip the move to the secondary vessel this time. (You'll want to use it in later batches but for your first one it will be better if you keep things as simple as possible.)

You should have a hydrometer, so check the specific gravity of the beer at 10 days. Check the back side of the instruction sheet to see if it tells you what your final gravity (FG) should be. You 'll probably be looking for something in the 1.010-1.016 range. Then check it again a day later, and then a third time a day after that. If the hydrometer readings don't change and the gravity readings are close to the suggested FG, then your fermentation is complete. You can then proceed to the next step which will probably be bottling or kegging the beer.

 

[BrewInspector]

Fermentation will take 3 or 4 days but there is more for the year to clean up after that hence the longer recommendations. The need to move to a secondary vessel is hotly debated. It is generally not needed and you can leave it in the primary the entire time or transfer to the secondary if you wish. I would wait about a week before transfer but it is entirely up to you.

There are sure to be plenty of comments to follow that will recommend leaving it in the primary during the entire process

 

[RichardCooper]

Disregard those instructions. As a beginning brewer I would suggest you allow the beer to stay in the primary fermenter at least two full weeks (14 days). Skip the move to the secondary vessel this time. (You'll want to use it in later batches but for your first one it will be better if you keep things as simple as possible.)

You should have a hydrometer, so check the specific gravity of the beer at 10 days. Check the back side of the instruction sheet to see if it tells you what your final gravity (FG) should be. You 'll probably be looking for something in the 1.010-1.016 range. Then check it again a day later, and then a third time a day after that. If the hydrometer readings don't change and the gravity readings are close to the suggested FG, then your fermentation is complete. You can then proceed to the next step which will probably be bottling or kegging the beer.

According to my instructions the estimated final gravity is 1011 SG. The gravity before i close the fermenter was 1054.

A ignorant question. How to do i increase or reduce the gravity in the production?

Thanks

 

[GrogNerd]

According to my instructions the estimated final gravity is 1011 SG. The gravity before i close the fermenter was 1054.

A ignorant question. How to do i increase or reduce the gravity in the production?

Thanks

that would be the yeasts' job.

isn't that so nice of them?

 

[brewbama]

How to do i increase or reduce the gravity in the production?

Original Gravity is a reading of the fermentable and unfermentable sugars in the wort. More sugar = higher the hydrometer floats. Therefor, adding more sugar (LME, DME, grain, candy sugar, corn sugar, etc) for the yeast to digest will increase your gravity though not all sugar is fermentable and more sugar may require more/diff yeast due to the resulting higher alc content. Likewise adding less sugar will result in lower OG.


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[Puddlethumper]

According to my instructions the estimated final gravity is 1011 SG. The gravity before i close the fermenter was 1054.

A ignorant question. How to do i increase or reduce the gravity in the production?

Those numbers sound about right, except there is a decimel point in them; the 1.011 is the target final gravity, and 1.054 is the target original gravity. Remember that those are target gravities and your individual batches will probably vary a little. As long as you are close then you've executed the recipe correctly.

There usually isn't much need to adjust the gravity unless you are way off. For example, if your original gravity should be 1.056 and you only got the wort to 1.045 near the end of the boil you can stir in some light DME the boost the gravity or you can boil the wort down further. If you find your final gravity is too high you can dilute the wort with water. Boiling down or adding water will change the final volume of your batch which is something to consider.

Again, if you are close don't worry about it.

Cheers!

 

[VikingChrisColby]

Wort boils around 213 °F (~100.5 °C), at sea level, depending on its specific gravity. Water boils at 212 °F/100 °C, but the dissolved solids in wort raise its boiling temperature.


Chris Colby
Editor
http://beerandwinejournal.com/

 

[MindenMan]

There is a great amount of information given here, and I do agree with it. The question I have is, regarding your boiling pot what size is it, and what are you mashing in?

 

[Flipadelphia]

Did the op really ask what temp to boil at?

 

[icebob]

Yes and members explain to him... why bring this back up?

 

[RichardCooper]

Those numbers sound about right, except there is a decimel point in them; the 1.011 is the target final gravity, and 1.054 is the target original gravity. Remember that those are target gravities and your individual batches will probably vary a little. As long as you are close then you've executed the recipe correctly.

There usually isn't much need to adjust the gravity unless you are way off. For example, if your original gravity should be 1.056 and you only got the wort to 1.045 near the end of the boil you can stir in some light DME the boost the gravity or you can boil the wort down further. If you find your final gravity is too high you can dilute the wort with water. Boiling down or adding water will change the final volume of your batch which is something to consider.

Again, if you are close don't worry about it.

Cheers!

Hi,

I didn't put any DME. And didn't change to second fermenter. I made a reading today, 1012 +- gravity. Tasted doesn't have a lot of aroma, but the acid smell vanish after a few min, in the flavor de same thing, and i notice carbonation working.

These are good signals?

 

[GrogNerd]

can't really judge it right now, because it's warm and flat

day after tomorrow, take another gravity reading, if it's still around 1.012, you can go ahead and bottle

give it 2-3 weeks in the bottle around 21°C, then try it.

 

[RichardCooper]

can't really judge it right now, because it's warm and flat

day after tomorrow, take another gravity reading, if it's still around 1.012, you can go ahead and bottle

give it 2-3 weeks in the bottle around 21°C, then try it.

Can it be at 18 Cº ? Its max on my wine freezer!

 

[Puddlethumper]

can't really judge it right now, because it's warm and flat

day after tomorrow, take another gravity reading, if it's still around 1.012, you can go ahead and bottle

give it 2-3 weeks in the bottle around 21°C, then try it.

^^^ agreed ^^^

Sounds like your fermentation is about complete. Once the gravity readings are stable 2-3 days in a row allow at least another 48 hours for the yeast to finish any cleanup necessary. You can then bottle or keg it as you like.

And the flavor at this point should be educational to you. You'll see an amazing difference between what it tastes like out of the sample jar at this point compared to what it tastes like conditioned a couple of weeks, chilled and carbonated.

Cheers!

 

[Puddlethumper]

Can it be at 18 Cº ? Its max on my wine freezer!

You want the bottled beer to stay warmer than that. The yeast needs to wake up again and do a little more work to carbonate the beer. 68 - 74F is probably about ideal. When I bottle beer I usually just put the filled cases in the coolest closet in my house (in summertime) and let it set there for a couple of weeks.

 

[RichardCooper]

There usually isn't much need to adjust the gravity unless you are way off. For example, if your original gravity should be 1.056 and you only got the wort to 1.045 near the end of the boil you can stir in some light DME the boost the gravity or you can boil the wort down further. If you find your final gravity is too high you can dilute the wort with water. Boiling down or adding water will change the final volume of your batch which is something to consider.

Again, if you are close don't worry about it.

Cheers!

Hi,

I already bottle the beer, but im thinking on using DME in the future to adjust gravity. The thing is, i don't know what kind of DME should i pick. Any tips?

Cheers

 

[Puddlethumper]

I haven't used DME for that purpose but I would suspect the lightest you can find would be best. It would have the least impact on the flavor.

One thing I would try to take into account is that things that ferment more completely than grain such as DME and sugar need to be added with caution. A little will go a long way. Too much and it may tend to dry the beer out and make it taste "thin". It will also increase the ABV.



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[RichardCooper]

I haven't used DME for that purpose but I would suspect the lightest you can find would be best. It would have the least impact on the flavor.

One thing I would try to take into account is that things that ferment more completely than grain such as DME and sugar need to be added with caution. A little will go a long way. Too much and it may tend to dry the beer out and make it taste "thin". It will also increase the ABV.



Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

I added 105.6 grams of sugar in 200ml of boiled water, for a volume of 17.78L of beer. I used beer tools to calculate the amount need. Right or wrong its done

The hardest part patience for waiting, and that does come on home-brewing books

 

[Puddlethumper]

The hardest part patience for waiting, and that does come on home-brewing books

Best of luck with the beer and that waiting thing!

Cheers!