FastFerment conical fermenter??????

[GreenEyedIrishman]

700ml of air (which is what the collection ball would contain unless you are in a complete O2 environment) contains ~147ml (21%) of oxygen and ~546ml of nitrogen that would be be mixing with (if your headspace hasn't been disturbed) ~9.5L of CO2.

If it miraculously mixed instantaneously with your headspace as it arrived, that headspace would now contain ~1.5% oxygen, which would be pushed out rather quickly as that's how the headspace is developed to begin with unless you are topping with CO2 before sealing the FF.

Of course, gasses don't mix instantaneously. If they did, when you farted, everyone in the room would smell it at the same time.

Besides, don't wineries sparge with nitrogen to get the O2 out?

I don't feel that FastBrewing is misrepresenting the almost nil chance of oxygen spoilage when switching the ball out, and they do point out that some fill the ball with distilled water or CO2 when switching if they do feel it is a risk. I'll bet there's a lot of great bottles of beer that have been consumed made from the FF with that small O2 bubble having been in there though.

 

[ElmCityWobblyPops]

700ml of air (which is what the collection ball would contain unless you are in a complete O2 environment) contains ~147ml (21%) of oxygen and ~546ml of nitrogen that would be be mixing with (if your headspace hasn't been disturbed) ~9.5L of CO2.

If it miraculously mixed instantaneously with your headspace as it arrived, that headspace would now contain ~1.5% oxygen, which would be pushed out rather quickly as that's how the headspace is developed to begin with unless you are topping with CO2 before sealing the FF.

Of course, gasses don't mix instantaneously. If they did, when you farted, everyone in the room would smell it at the same time.

Besides, don't wineries sparge with nitrogen to get the O2 out?

I don't feel that FastBrewing is misrepresenting the almost nil chance of oxygen spoilage when switching the ball out, and they do point out that some fill the ball with distilled water or CO2 when switching if they do feel it is a risk. I'll bet there's a lot of great bottles of beer that have been consumed made from the FF with that small O2 bubble having been in there though.

Agreed. I have 25+ batches through mine and have never had one be oxygenated because of this.

 

[CTS]

Wondering if anyone knows the thermowell size. Want to order a new probe for the stc 1000 from auber instruments but have no idea which one to get.

 

[clarkt]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=494537

Your answer is in this thread

 

[BrewKnob]

I have 2 to make starters in for my 20 gallon batches...love them. Only thing, don't tighten the couplings too tight...plastic strips easy and use way more tape than they suggest.

 

[Bobb25]

How have the members here dealt with the issue of the lid gaskets not staying in place, and occasionally falling into the beer. I sanitize the gaskets so it's not a contamination problem, but the lids don't seal very well. I have tried the original flat, the flat silicone, and now the round gaskets, and none of them are reliable.

 

[MrKelly]

they have a new hollow gasket that stays in the lid and seals better.

 

[ElmCityWobblyPops]

I have the older silicon one, and while it would seal, it would only seal if the lid was on really tight, so tight that I couldn't get the cover off without some persuasion from a hammer.

So now I use some cheap dollar store craft foam that is about 2mm or so thick, place the silicon one in first and then the craft foam one, and it seals every time, and isn't a PITA to get the cover back off.

 

[kaffeenjunkie]

I have now used both styles. The flat silicone and the new round hollow one. I just take some time to make sure the seal is seated under the threads of the lid all the way around. I have never had an issue with them falling into my beer.
I do like the new round gasket better. Once I make sure it is seated nicely it really takes quite a bit to get it to pop out. It also seals nicer and the lid comes off easier.
I use a double layer of the flat gaskets, it seals nicely. I must say I have never had to use a hammer to remove the lid. A few swear words yes, hammer no.

 

[ElmCityWobblyPops]

With the flat silicon one, it sealed the cover on so tight that I couldn't get it off. Had no choice. The flat silicon fits into the cover well, but plastic on silicon on plastic and it is hard to remove.

It doubled up with the craft foam, works wonders. Silcon seals the fermenter, but with the foam between it and the top of the fermenter, the cover doesn't stick. Still tight, and still sealed. Been using Conan yeast all summer and it ferments like a biotch, bubbled the air lock so hard had to refill it with starsan!

 

[TorMag]

I highly recommend getting a set of strap wrenches if you have a FastFerment, comes in very handy and you don't have to use a hammer..

http://amzn.to/2wRDhux

 

[ElmCityWobblyPops]

Haven't needed the hammer since I doubled up the flat silicon with the craft foam

 

[wishingiwasfishing]

can't find how to delete post, duplicate

 

[wishingiwasfishing]

From the beginning my FastFerment sealed well. I'm still not crazy about them...but I'll take the FastFerment over a bucket or glass carboy on most occasions.

Below is a picture of a transfer with the FastFerment and a purged keg

 

[kproudfoot]

Following

 

[mbg]

How have the members here dealt with the issue of the lid gaskets not staying in place, and occasionally falling into the beer. I sanitize the gaskets so it's not a contamination problem, but the lids don't seal very well. I have tried the original flat, the flat silicone, and now the round gaskets, and none of them are reliable.

I too couldn't believe it when I had a silicon o-ring end up in my fermenter. I now lube it with keg lube and seem to prevent this.

 

[kproudfoot]

From the beginning my FastFerment sealed well. I'm still not crazy about them...but I'll take the FastFerment over a bucket or glass carboy on most occasions.

Below is a picture of a transfer with the FastFerment and a purged keg

Curious what the purpose of the sample value at the top is and can you post a closer picture of the connection near the keg? Do you have issues with leaks going from one size hose to another?

 

[wishingiwasfishing]

Curious what the purpose of the sample value at the top is and can you post a closer picture of the connection near the keg? Do you have issues with leaks going from one size hose to another?

In the picture I have 9lbs of peaches in the fermenter, so the level is much higher than normal brew sessions. I put the top valve in to purge the headspace with co2, depending on what I may be doing.

The connection close to the keg is just a regular beer line, then silicone tubing going over the top secured with a hose clamp. It's really not anything pretty...but it's what I have on hand and works...with no leaks.

 

[kproudfoot]

In the picture I have 9lbs of peaches in the fermenter, so the level is much higher than normal brew sessions. I put the top valve in to purge the headspace with co2, depending on what I may be doing.



The connection close to the keg is just a regular beer line, then silicone tubing going over the top secured with a hose clamp. It's really not anything pretty...but it's what I have on hand and works...with no leaks.

Ok thanks

 

[Volare]

What is the smaller fridge someone has managed to get one of the standard size FFs into? I saw a post one time with a small fridge but don't know that I'll find it again...

 

[Chris W]

Looking for help on a FF 14g leaking problem.

I have not had the same leaking issues that many of you have suffered. The lid is just fine and no leaking from the thermowell.

However, the connection between the conical and the ball valve leaks. Yes, of course I have it wrapped 10x with teflon tape. I have tightened it to the point where I feel any more would result in stripping of the threads. I reached out to FastFerment and they were great. They replaced the original but the replacement leaks as well. Possibly the problem is the valve. But that seems unlikely.

The leak is very slow...kind of an oozing or seeping. The wort will eventually become thick here and stop it. But, when testing with water, or when cleaning after a batch, it will just leak and leak. Not good!

Any ideas?

 

[Dade0]

Replace the ball valve.

 

[kproudfoot]

I suspect the issue isn’t the ball value. If you don’t have the collection ball attached is there still a leak?

 

[Chris W]

I suspect the issue isn’t the ball value. If you don’t have the collection ball attached is there still a leak?

Yes, there is still a leak. I can see the area where the ball valve meets the fermenter slowly fill with water until is starts to drip to the floor.

 

[kh54s10]

Yes, there is still a leak. I can see the area where the ball valve meets the fermenter slowly fill with water until is starts to drip to the floor.

You have already replaced the fermenter. You have wrapped the threads with teflon tape. I assume it is coming through the threads of the fermenter and valve. So maybe the threads on the valve are defective, though I would think the teflon tape would have fixed that. Is there a flat on the back side of the valve. If so an o-ring might seal it. If not, no flat or the o-ring doesn't stop the leak, I would replace the valve next.

 

[kproudfoot]

I suspect the issue isn’t the ball value. If you don’t have the collection ball attached is there still a leak?

 

[kproudfoot]

Is the leak above the gray part or coming out from below? Sorry I am confused where the leak is.

 

[Fast_Rack]

@Chris W
If you notice any leaking between the valve and the vessel, we have noted after testing that this issue is caused when the valve is only screwed up to or close to the collar. This isn't enough to create a seal. You must use ~10 wraps of Teflon Tape around the threads and
also up over the little collar and then screw the valve on, up over the collar. The first time takes a little effort to break it in and after that, it is easier.

Also FAQ #41 below is helpful for tightening the inner core of the valve:

http://www.fastbrewing.com/products/fastferment/frequently-asked-questions

Cheers,

Mitchell

 

[Chris W]

Is the leak above the gray part or coming out from below? Sorry I am confused where the leak is.

It leaks at the junction of the conical and the grey valve

 

[Chris W]

@Chris W
If you notice any leaking between the valve and the vessel, we have noted after testing that this issue is caused when the valve is only screwed up to or close to the collar. This isn't enough to create a seal. You must use ~10 wraps of Teflon Tape around the threads and
also up over the little collar and then screw the valve on, up over the collar. The first time takes a little effort to break it in and after that, it is easier.

Also FAQ #41 below is helpful for tightening the inner core of the valve:

http://www.fastbrewing.com/products/fastferment/frequently-asked-questions

Cheers,

Mitchell

Mitchell, thanks for the advice. I will re-tape and screw in further. So, if I understand you correctly, I should make sure the tape goes a little over the top edge of the threads? I have been worried about stripping the threads on the conical but will tighten further than I have previously.

The valve itself does not leak, but thanks for the FAQ nonetheless.

 

[kproudfoot]

It leaks at the junction of the conical and the grey valve

I had the same problem at 1st. Mine wasn’t threading right. You have to wrap with tape like 10 times. Attach valve and make sure it goes one squarely then leak test. If it least remove collar and more wraps of tape and keep repeating. I think I got frustrated and put too much tape on which caused it not to thread properly. Once I actually screwed on slowly and kept repeating it went on right. My guesses when you’re screwing on it’s not running properly in allowing water to slip out. If that all makes sense.

 

[Dade0]

How have the members here dealt with the issue of the lid gaskets not staying in place, and occasionally falling into the beer. I sanitize the gaskets so it's not a contamination problem, but the lids don't seal very well. I have tried the original flat, the flat silicone, and now the round gaskets, and none of them are reliable.

I insert the flat silicone first then the original flat to hold the flat silicone in place. It works good. I get a seal and nothing falls in. I have the round ones but have yet to need them.

 

[Dade0]

Mitchell, thanks for the advice. I will re-tape and screw in further. So, if I understand you correctly, I should make sure the tape goes a little over the top edge of the threads? I have been worried about stripping the threads on the conical but will tighten further than I have previously.

The valve itself does not leak, but thanks for the FAQ nonetheless.

10 wraps of teflon? What is the QA tolerance 2 mm? Maybe time to invest in new/better molds.

 

[kproudfoot]

10 wraps of teflon? What is the QA tolerance 2 mm? Maybe time to invest in new/better molds.

I was more than that it seemed like.

 

[Dade0]

10 wraps of teflon? What is the QA tolerance 2 mm? Maybe time to invest in new/better molds.

Wait that is the new 14 gallon right? Maybe the weight/pressure of the liquid is to much for the gap.

 

[kproudfoot]

Wait that is the new 14 gallon right? Maybe the weight/pressure of the liquid is to much for the gap.

It takes sometime and a little patience but once you get it sealed it’s a great economical fermentor.

 

[kaffeenjunkie]

10 wraps of teflon? What is the QA tolerance 2 mm? Maybe time to invest in new/better molds.

I have taken my ball valve off, cleaned and put back in place many times. 10 wraps seems excessive and may prevent you from getting the ball valve seated properly.

 

[kproudfoot]

I have taken my ball valve off, cleaned and put back in place many times. 10 wraps seems excessive and may prevent you from getting the ball valve seated properly.

Start with 4-5 and put collar on. Then unscrew it and add more tape before reattaching. (Do not remove the tape) Repeat this process until there are no leaks. Like I said it took me a while but finally it sealed great. At first my collar was going on at a weird angle and wasn’t sealing properly. Once I figured this out I was good.

I will say that this is the worst part of the fermentor.

 

[kproudfoot]

I have taken my ball valve off, cleaned and put back in place many times. 10 wraps seems excessive and may prevent you from getting the ball valve seated properly.

The key is not cleaning if the old tape. Just more wraps of tape. I read this somewhere and it worked. Before that I kept removing tape and starting over.

 

[kh54s10]

This sounds like a design flaw to me. It should not be nearly that hard to seal up a connection.