FastFerment conical fermenter??????

[kaffeenjunkie]

So I received my new FF today.
They are the next generation from my previous ones. I have to hand it to the folks at FF, they are listening and improving their product.
I like the new lid design. The little grooves molded into it seem to make it easier to grip when opening or tightening. I wish I could get one for my othe r old one.
The new, smaller diameter hose, attachment and clip are nice!
The clip actually will stop the flow. I have always been a bit anxious about the old hose introducing too much air. Stopping the flow, was not going to happen with the old clip and hose. It also will not work with the standard bottle fillers without some jury rigging. I will also have to get a bit longer hose to reach the bottom of my keg. I don't care, I keg and I am excited to try the new set up.
Jury's still out on the new round gasket. One thing for sure, it doesn't fall out. I put it in place and shook the heck out of the lid and it stayed in place.
I have had no real issues with the doubled up flat silicone gaskets I currently use.
It also appears that they have left a wider lip on the mouth so things will seal better. Might be just my imagination.
Overall, I like the improvements I see. As they say, the proof is in the pudding I mean, brewing.

Insert the usual disclaimers here; unsolicited, no affiliation, ya dee yah.

 

[ElmCityWobblyPops]

So I received my new FF today.
They are the next generation from my previous ones. I have to hand it to the folks at FF, they are listening and improving their product.
I like the new lid design. The little grooves molded into it seem to make it easier to grip when opening or tightening. I wish I could get one for my othe r old one.
The new, smaller diameter hose, attachment and clip are nice!
The clip actually will stop the flow. I have always been a bit anxious about the old hose introducing too much air. Stopping the flow, was not going to happen with the old clip and hose. It also will not work with the standard bottle fillers without some jury rigging. I will also have to get a bit longer hose to reach the bottom of my keg. I don't care, I keg and I am excited to try the new set up.
Jury's still out on the new round gasket. One thing for sure, it doesn't fall out. I put it in place and shook the heck out of the lid and it stayed in place.
I have had no real issues with the doubled up flat silicone gaskets I currently use.
It also appears that they have left a wider lip on the mouth so things will seal better. Might be just my imagination.
Overall, I like the improvements I see. As they say, the proof is in the pudding I mean, brewing.

Insert the usual disclaimers here; unsolicited, no affiliation, ya dee yah.

So the bottle fill attachment is now a 3/8" fitting instead of the 1/2"? Wonder if they would just sell me the fitting for mine, as I have found that the 1/2" just fills bottles too fast (even with a spring loaded bottle filler wands), and I end up getting too much foam in the bottle, not to mention a larger head space from the larger displacement of the 1/2" bottle filler.

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

A solution to where we can dry hop bagless in our Fastferment Conicals:

our Fastferment conicals have a nice collection ball at the bottom that collects all the yeast and trub into the ball which works perfectly....If we don't dry hop bagless into it. The pellets expand and clog the 1 inch opening at the bottom of the conical, leaving wasted beer in the collection ball. My resolution is to not use the collection ball with beers that I plan to dry hop. Without the collection ball at the bottom, the yeast, trub, and hops will compact at the bottom and I will rack out of the sampling port that I have installed on the side of the conical. Leaving the particulate matter in the fermenter allows it to eventually compact together with time (and while cold crashing), which limits the beer that I would be wasting by dropping the trub, yeast and hops earlier in the process. As long as the sediment stays below the sampling port, after cold crashing which compacts the sediment, I can easily rack everything except the very small amount of beer that is sitting on top of the sediment. the compacted sediment will displace the beer above the sediment, leaving less wasted beer in the end. Having a racking arm in other conicals helps as you can move it around to choose where you want to drain the beer from within the conical. There is limited information on dry hopping freely (without mesh bags) in the fast ferment on here, so I believe this will be a decent method. On top of racking from the port, I am connecting a bouncer inline filter which should catch any hop sediment that I may drain out of the fermenter.

I have attached a picture below, which is at about 18 hours of cold crashing. I will cold crash for 72 hours. I have also added gelatin, as a fining agent. I will post a video of the racking process when it is time. This is my first time attempting this method, as I usually just bag the hops. I should include that I dry hopped with 3 ounces of citra into this nice, citra pale ale that I am looking forward to. 3 ounces of dry hops looks to be good for staying below the racking port level (along with the yeast and trub).

 

[Jwin]

Here's an idea(I don't own a FF, happy Speidel owner)
Many mention taping on the sides to get the sediment/hops to drop. Why not drop a large, flat stirbar into the fermentor and get a decent size neodymium magnet and use the stir bar to "scrub" the sides of the fermentor from the outside? You could put the stir bar in when you pitch and just stick the magnet to it and rest it on the side until ready to crash, or a day or so before dumping the trub.
May take some experiments to get the right magnet to make sure the stir bar lays flat, instead of standing on it's end.
This may help settle hop debris as well.
Just a thought...

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

Here's an idea(I don't own a FF, happy Speidel owner)
Many mention taping on the sides to get the sediment/hops to drop. Why not drop a large, flat stirbar into the fermentor and get a decent size neodymium magnet and use the stir bar to "scrub" the sides of the fermentor from the outside? You could put the stir bar in when you pitch and just stick the magnet to it and rest it on the side until ready to crash, or a day or so before dumping the trub.
May take some experiments to get the right magnet to make sure the stir bar lays flat, instead of standing on it's end.
This may help settle hop debris as well.
Just a thought...

I like your idea! There is something similar for fish tanks to clean the inside wall of the glass. My only concern would be possibly scratching the plastic on the inside of the conical which would later increase chances of infection. Of course if the stir bar is softer than the material that the conical is made out of, it should not scratch. Will have to experiment with it. Very innovative idea.

Ok. I just tested your idea inside a plastic bucket with water and I think this is going to work! I think i may actually connect the ball and put the magnet in now to get all the debris out so I can rack normally. I think ill still use the inline bouncer filter to catch any leftover hop debris just in case. Cheers!

View attachment trim.57365640-6235-4E02-808E-CEE162D23D2D.MOV

 

[Jwin]

I can't tell by the video, but I would be sure to use a stir bar that is flat, without the rib/dimple in the center.
Also, using the ball at the end of fermentation is a bad idea in my opinion. I don't think it's what it is meant for. It's good to do it at 2-24 hours(once for trub, then reconnect to harvest yeast). Using it at the end of fermentation introduces a lot of o2. Would probably be better off just opening the valve and dumping the trub into a Tupperware or bucket or something. That way, you avoid the big bubble going up through the beer. Conversely, you sck oxygen into the top, but that's still better than the bubble through the beer.
A good strong magnet would hold the bar better as well, lowering the chances of you losing it in the ball valve. If it hits the valve, i bet you won't get it out without a strong magnet. My guess is that when you drop it in, it would go straight to the valve anyway.
I don't think scratching should be a concern with any stir bar. Should be pretty rounded and you'd have to use a large electromagnet to cause enough friction for it to be an issue.


A further thought. One could potentially rig up a large bar and a stirplate like mechanism to mix your priming solution into the beer. Not so sure how well it would work, since it's a nonflat surface, but would be cool to see.

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

I can't tell by the video, but I would be sure to use a stir bar that is flat, without the rib/dimple in the center.
Also, using the ball at the end of fermentation is a bad idea in my opinion. I don't think it's what it is meant for. It's good to do it at 2-24 hours(once for trub, then reconnect to harvest yeast). Using it at the end of fermentation introduces a lot of o2. Would probably be better off just opening the valve and dumping the trub into a Tupperware or bucket or something. That way, you avoid the big bubble going up through the beer. Conversely, you sck oxygen into the top, but that's still better than the bubble through the beer.
A good strong magnet would hold the bar better as well, lowering the chances of you losing it in the ball valve. If it hits the valve, i bet you won't get it out without a strong magnet. My guess is that when you drop it in, it would go straight to the valve anyway.
I don't think scratching should be a concern with any stir bar. Should be pretty rounded and you'd have to use a large electromagnet to cause enough friction for it to be an issue.


A further thought. One could potentially rig up a large bar and a stirplate like mechanism to mix your priming solution into the beer. Not so sure how well it would work, since it's a nonflat surface, but would be cool to see.

I just made a video of your idea and I am trying it on this batch. I have attached the URL below. Thanks for the awesome idea. with the collection ball, it is big enough to where you should only have to change it once if you are dry hopping. I do not change out the collection ball at all without dry hopping, as the trub and yeast fill up 1 collection ball and the rest of the beer is crystal clear (this may differ with others who have different systems and brewing techniques. With dry hopping, you would have to change out the ball once and yes, a huge oxygen bubble comes through from the collection ball up through the top of the beer and out of the top. oxygen exposure was my biggest worry with the fastferment but after reading this entire forum and consulting with the company that makes the product, the oxygen bubble that comes up through the beer is does not do anything noticeable to your product. it is in contact with the beer for about 1 second and it is in the form of a bubble that does not disperse throughout the beer but instead goes straight to the surface of the beer. When this occurs, the air lock immedeatly starts bubbling (I use a blow off tube) which confirms that oxygen is getting pushed out as soon as it goes in (oxygen is lighter than co2).

https://youtu.be/XmMn2F9IC9Y

 

[Jwin]

https://youtu.be/XmMn2F9IC9Y[/url]

True, but not.
I would advise not opening the valve until you are ready to bottle. That way, any o2 pickup will hopefully be taken care of by the bottle conditioning.
The result of the bubble is just room air mixing with the co2 in the fermentor. That mixture is what leaves the airlock.

Is there any reason why you couldn't dump the trub at full krausen, then reattach and open the ball valve and use that for hops? That way, any added o2 is scrubbed by the active fermentation.

Also, a stronger magnet on the outside may help you jump the stand. I have a neodymium magnet that is about the size of a stack of 6 or 7 dimes that will grab my stir bar through a wood table from a half foot away. Check Amazon. They're pretty cheap.

Not trying to nitpick here or anything. It's just that, cold side o2 control made the single biggest improvement to my hoppy beers, especially in shelf life. I have IPAs that sit in kegs for a few months and still taste great. Six weeks used to be about the max before I went OCD about cold side o2. It hasn't been much financial investment either. It's all about process. I now close loop transfer with fully purged kegs and lines. Huge impact.
If I sent half a cubic foot of air through my finished beer, I might cry a little. Cheers

 

[ElmCityWobblyPops]

A solution to where we can dry hop bagless in our Fastferment Conicals:

our Fastferment conicals have a nice collection ball at the bottom that collects all the yeast and trub into the ball which works perfectly....If we don't dry hop bagless into it. The pellets expand and clog the 1 inch opening at the bottom of the conical, leaving wasted beer in the collection ball. My resolution is to not use the collection ball with beers that I plan to dry hop. Without the collection ball at the bottom, the yeast, trub, and hops will compact at the bottom and I will rack out of the sampling port that I have installed on the side of the conical. Leaving the particulate matter in the fermenter allows it to eventually compact together with time (and while cold crashing), which limits the beer that I would be wasting by dropping the trub, yeast and hops earlier in the process. As long as the sediment stays below the sampling port, after cold crashing which compacts the sediment, I can easily rack everything except the very small amount of beer that is sitting on top of the sediment. the compacted sediment will displace the beer above the sediment, leaving less wasted beer in the end. Having a racking arm in other conicals helps as you can move it around to choose where you want to drain the beer from within the conical. There is limited information on dry hopping freely (without mesh bags) in the fast ferment on here, so I believe this will be a decent method. On top of racking from the port, I am connecting a bouncer inline filter which should catch any hop sediment that I may drain out of the fermenter.

I have attached a picture below, which is at about 18 hours of cold crashing. I will cold crash for 72 hours. I have also added gelatin, as a fining agent. I will post a video of the racking process when it is time. This is my first time attempting this method, as I usually just bag the hops. I should include that I dry hopped with 3 ounces of citra into this nice, citra pale ale that I am looking forward to. 3 ounces of dry hops looks to be good for staying below the racking port level (along with the yeast and trub).

Dry hopping is a breeze, I just use muslin bags that came with beer kits from OBK. Put the hops in the bag, tie the top tight so they don't escape when they break down, and viola.

I do want to get this however.

Slides in the mouth, is about the height of the FF, so should hold more than you would ever need to dry hop. 19" High, 4" diameter

 

[ElmCityWobblyPops]

I can't tell by the video, but I would be sure to use a stir bar that is flat, without the rib/dimple in the center.
Also, using the ball at the end of fermentation is a bad idea in my opinion. I don't think it's what it is meant for. It's good to do it at 2-24 hours(once for trub, then reconnect to harvest yeast). Using it at the end of fermentation introduces a lot of o2. Would probably be better off just opening the valve and dumping the trub into a Tupperware or bucket or something. That way, you avoid the big bubble going up through the beer. Conversely, you sck oxygen into the top, but that's still better than the bubble through the beer.
A good strong magnet would hold the bar better as well, lowering the chances of you losing it in the ball valve. If it hits the valve, i bet you won't get it out without a strong magnet. My guess is that when you drop it in, it would go straight to the valve anyway.
I don't think scratching should be a concern with any stir bar. Should be pretty rounded and you'd have to use a large electromagnet to cause enough friction for it to be an issue.


A further thought. One could potentially rig up a large bar and a stirplate like mechanism to mix your priming solution into the beer. Not so sure how well it would work, since it's a nonflat surface, but would be cool to see.

What little bit of air that is in an empty ball wouldn't do anything to your beer. It flows up through and the bulk of it goes out the air lock. Hasn't done anything bad to my batches.

 

[Jwin]

What little bit of air that is in an empty ball wouldn't do anything to your beer. It flows up through and the bulk of it goes out the air lock. Hasn't done anything bad to my batches.

I just don't get this thinking that it leaves the airlock...
If I fart in the shower and leave the door cracked, my fart doesn't leave the shower. If your FF was 95+% full of beer, I get it. But it's not.
Ill leave it there. Not trying to troll...

 

[ElmCityWobblyPops]

O2 is lighter than CO2.

While some CO2 will get pushed out through the airlock, the bulk of the O2 from the ball is going out through the airlock, and residual gets pushed out from CO2 gassing off of the beer, whatever O2 left, being lighter, it gets pushed out.

I have put 15+ batches through my FF, and what little air from an empty ball gets pushed up through the solution, doesn't effect the beer any, not that I have experienced anyway.

 

[Jwin]

(oxygen is lighter than co2).

https://youtu.be/XmMn2F9IC9Y

vs.

O2 is heavier than CO2.

While some CO2 will get pushed out through the airlock, the bulk of the O2 from the ball is going out through the airlock, and residual gets pushed out from CO2 gassing off of the beer, whatever O2 left, being lighter, it gets pushed out.

I have put 15+ batches through my FF, and what little air from an empty ball gets pushed up through the solution, doesn't effect the beer any, not that I have experienced anyway.

That's not how gases work. If it were, we would suffocate or burst into flames. Gases mix.
<B>I'm not debating the fact that anyone can make good beer.</b> I just hate the concept that the o2 magically exits the airlock, because it doesn't. If the manufacturer told you that, it's snakeoil. Gases mix almost instantly. The whole thought of the "co2 blanket" has been disproven time and again. There's a reason brewers purge kegs and breweries have VERY tight cold side o2 control. Any benefit of off gassing is offset by the suckback of cold crashing.
IMHO, the best method post fermentation would be to rig up something to feed co2 into the fermentor and open the valve, without the ball, to dump the yeast. Displacing the trub with co2. Then, feed it co2 for the coldcrash suckback.
See those who transfer and cold crash under co2. All for good reason.
Now, if your kegs/bottles only last a couple weeks, it doesn't matter nearly as much as something aged for months.
Anyway, I've said my part. I hope you cats read into it and don't take it personally. Then again, if your happy where you are, I raise a pint to you! Happy brewing!

 

[ElmCityWobblyPops]

Yeah, I wrote that backwards. Explanation is correct, just the initial statement is backwards. O2 is lighter than CO2

That is true about breweries purging kegs and such with CO2 and pushing beer from fermentor to brite tank with CO2.....but then they are also dealing with much larger volumes than in a FF ball. Even a small corny keg at 5+gallons is much larger than the 700ml ball on a FF.

Not enough to worry about. Some purge the ball with CO2 before reattaching. I don't have that ability since I don't keg and bottle everything, hence no CO2 source.

And as I said...have been doing it since I have gotten the FF, to no ill effect, 15+batches through, pretty sure I would have detected any oxygenation by now.

 

[Dade0]

I have a Cuisipro Magnetic Spot Scrubber for getting to spots on carboys. Same premise check it out. $10

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

I have a Cuisipro Magnetic Spot Scrubber for getting to spots on carboys. Same premise check it out. $10

This is definitely an ideal product! Is the silicone scrubber food safe silicone that could soak in the fermenter for a couple weeks without leaching? An alternative way to dry hop (the way the I actually used and like better) is to just not use the collection ball and to rack out of the sampling port. I dry hopped with three ounces of citra (as I mentioned in a previous post), and with the yeast and trub all together, it was still an Inch below the racking port. Using the Bouncer Inline Filter when racking out of the sampling port helps catch any hop bits that may still be freely floating. I actually made a video of me doing this. My beer is super clear in my keg with no hop debris. BTW I don't work for Bouncer or anything, I just like this little filter.

https://youtu.be/UAORCG95f2U

 

[wishingiwasfishing]

I will rack out of the sampling port that I have installed on the side of the conical. Leaving the particulate matter in the fermenter allows it to eventually compact together with time (and while cold crashing), which limits the beer that I would be wasting by dropping the trub, yeast and hops earlier in the process. As long as the sediment stays below the sampling port, after cold crashing which compacts the sediment, I can easily rack everything except the very small amount of beer that is sitting on top of the sediment. the compacted sediment will displace the beer above the sediment, leaving less wasted beer in the end. Having a racking arm in other conicals helps as you can move it around to choose where you want to drain the beer from within the conical. There is limited information on dry hopping freely (without mesh bags) in the fast ferment on here, so I believe this will be a decent method. On top of racking from the port, I am connecting a bouncer inline filter which should catch any hop sediment that I may drain out of the fermenter.

I've tried a number of different things with the Fast Ferment. The way I've found to give me the best results are to ferment my beer, once fermentation is done I close of the valve to the collection ball.

I've battled to many times with yeast and trub sticking in the throat above the collection ball. I also have a sampling port above the throat area. I've found that racking out of the sampling arm makes a whole lot of sense to me. I don't waste much useful beer and my beer is always clean that I'm kegging, I couldn't say the same when I kegged through the throat and out the bottom. I don't like the idea of trying to clean the throat area nearly as much as taking clean beer out of the sampling port.

During this whole time the valve stays closed. You could remove the collection ball or leave it on as it's isolated with the valve.

The next step isn't really necassary, but it's what I do. I've got an addition "sampling valve" up in my head space. When I'm racking to the keg, I hook a spare co2 tank up to this valve, purging the lines first (oh, I do purge my racking line with co2 as well. Then, while opening the racking valve...I coordinate this with cracking co2 regulator for very little flow. All I'm trying to do is displace the head space with fresh co2 rather than sucking in through the airlock, or other spaces. What I look for is moving the airlock to a slightly pressurized condition where the water is slightly shifted. If I open my flow a bit more...my other hand is on the regulator.

Like I said, you certainly don't have to do that last part...but coming out the sampling port makes a lot of sense to me on the Fast Ferments.

 

[Jwin]

I've tried a number of different things with the Fast Ferment. The way I've found to give me the best results are to ferment my beer, once fermentation is done I close of the valve to the collection ball.

I've battled to many times with yeast and trub sticking in the throat above the collection ball. I also have a sampling port above the throat area. I've found that racking out of the sampling arm makes a whole lot of sense to me. I don't waste much useful beer and my beer is always clean that I'm kegging, I couldn't say the same when I kegged through the throat and out the bottom. I don't like the idea of trying to clean the throat area nearly as much as taking clean beer out of the sampling port.

During this whole time the valve stays closed. You could remove the collection ball or leave it on as it's isolated with the valve.

The next step isn't really necassary, but it's what I do. I've got an addition "sampling valve" up in my head space. When I'm racking to the keg, I hook a spare co2 tank up to this valve, purging the lines first (oh, I do purge my racking line with co2 as well. Then, while opening the racking valve...I coordinate this with cracking co2 regulator for very little flow. All I'm trying to do is displace the head space with fresh co2 rather than sucking in through the airlock, or other spaces. What I look for is moving the airlock to a slightly pressurized condition where the water is slightly shifted. If I open my flow a bit more...my other hand is on the regulator.

Like I said, you certainly don't have to do that last part...but coming out the sampling port makes a lot of sense to me on the Fast Ferments.

]

Assuming you purge your keg, you could just feed the gas out of the keg back into the FF and save some co2.
Put a couple psi on the keg and it will purge the beer line for you. Just connect the QD first, then put the hose on the FF.
Same thing I do with my Speidel when I don't pressure transfer (depends on how my back feels that day).

P.s. sexy airlock

 

[wishingiwasfishing]

Thanks JWin!

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

Assuming you purge your keg, you could just feed the gas out of the keg back into the FF and save some co2.
Put a couple psi on the keg and it will purge the beer line for you. Just connect the QD first, then put the hose on the FF.
Same thing I do with my Speidel when I don't pressure transfer (depends on how my back feels that day).

P.s. sexy airlock

Another great idea! Wow. I am going to do this the next time I rack out of the fermenter into a keg. Thanks! So basically, you put a blanket of CO2 from purging the keg into the fermenter before racking into the keg?

 

[Jwin]

Another great idea! Wow. I am going to do this the next time I rack out of the fermenter into a keg. Thanks! So basically, you put a blanket of CO2 from purging the keg into the fermenter before racking into the keg?

Here's what I do
Lift fermenter above keg.
Fill clean keg with starsan. Seat lid. Jumper liquid post to another keg. Push starsan out with co2. Pressurize to 15psi or so. Invert keg, leaning towards gas post. Depress gas poppet to get out remaining star San(I trim my gas dip tube to be flush with the keg). Add a couple more psi if I fully emptied it. Attach the hose I will use to transfer beer to keg, letting the pressure in the keg flush out the o2/air. Attach the hose to fermentor out. Run a second hose from gas post to return in fermentor(high side "sample" port in your case). You could also just get a barb elbow and replace the airlock with it. They are sold pretty cheap at the big box stores, near the brass and compression plumbing fittings.
Open fermentor valve. Beer goes in, displacing the co2 in the keg and putting it back in the fermentor, instead of air being sucked in. Once the keg is nearly full, tilt it a little to put the gas post at the highest level, allowing that extra pint to fit in. I then just open the lid clamp and seat the lid with 30 psi, then close the clamp. You don't want your lid poorly seated if you are naturally carbing.
This is a fully closed loop. The only air making it in anywhere is the little bit in the gas hose, which is negligible and can be purged if you desire. You can also unseat the liquid hose QD(when you first purge it) and attach the gas hose to purge it, then reattach the liquid QD.
If you want to prime/naturally carb in the keg, just add your priming solution to the fermentor, through the bung hole with a funnel beforehand. Doing so will also allow you to bottle directly from the keg immediately after transfer or, you can bottle any remaining beer directly from the fermentor after the keg is full.
Taking it a step further, when I bottle from a primed keg, I under prime and immediately force carb a little. That way, when I bottle, there is a little bit of co2 in the beer and it bubbles up enough to fill the headspace.

This method gets 99% of the air out of the keg, while using less co2 than purging a keg at 15psi or so multiple times.

Now, I will note that I do this with a Speidel. When I'm doing this, there is no airlock present as it is replaced with the gas return from the keg. If you are using a second spigot to return the gas to the fermentor, you could possibly have suckback occur. I don't think that it is likely, but it could happen. If that is the fact, go with replacing the airlock with a properly sized barb or price of tubing connected to the gas hose.
Hope that all makes sense...

 

[aleienated]

My question is in regards to that air bubble that's created when changing out the collection ball after primary fermentation. Since there is always some residual yeast stuck to the cone leading to the collection ball, is there any concern with the air bubble kicking that dead yeast back up and mixing with the beer? I'm noticing a "yeast bite" every time I ferment in my FF. I have an older model without a sampling port, so I've even racked from the top to avoid any residual yeast and still getting this off flavour and aroma.

 

[TorMag]

My question is in regards to that air bubble that's created when changing out the collection ball after primary fermentation. Since there is always some residual yeast stuck to the cone leading to the collection ball, is there any concern with the air bubble kicking that dead yeast back up and mixing with the beer? I'm noticing a "yeast bite" every time I ferment in my FF. I have an older model without a sampling port, so I've even racked from the top to avoid any residual yeast and still getting this off flavour and aroma.

I don't think that is your problem. I've never had the problem and I keg from the bottom of the fast ferment. My process, I empty the ball two days before I plan on kegging, reattach and give anything clinging to the walls a chance to fall into the ball, letting gravity do it's part. A lot of people just drop the ball and bottle or keg at the same time.

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

Check out a way that I came up with to rack from the fastferment into the keg with minimal oxygen exposure. I used tubing attached to a gas disconnect as my blow off tube (had a carbonation cap connected to the disconnect going into some sanitizer). I purged a keg with co2, then racked into the keg straight through the dip tube using the liquid disconnect, and co2 is sucked back into the fermenter from the keg through the tubing that was originally my blow off tube. I call it a closed loop system. I am sure people have done this before, but check it out!

https://youtu.be/RVilNE_ewo0

 

[pshankstar]

Check out a way that I came up with to rack from the fastferment into the keg with minimal oxygen exposure. I used tubing attached to a gas disconnect as my blow off tube (had a carbonation cap connected to the disconnect going into some sanitizer). I purged a keg with co2, then racked into the keg straight through the dip tube using the liquid disconnect, and co2 is sucked back into the fermenter from the keg through the tubing that was originally my blow off tube. I call it a closed loop system. I am sure people have done this before, but check it out!

https://youtu.be/RVilNE_ewo0

Thanks for sharing this video! I am going to have to try that next time.

What size tubing did you use for both ends?

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

Thanks for sharing this video! I am going to have to try that next time.

What size tubing did you use for both ends?

No problem!! I am glad to share it! I used 3/16'' tubing as the tube going from gas disconnect into the top of the fermenter and I used 5/16'' going from the bottom of the fermenter to the liquid disconnect (5/16'' is just big enough to fit on the tubing adapter on the bottom of the fast ferment when racking).

 

[ejf063]

So..... I have been using my FastFerment for about a year and a half. I am wondering if anyone has done the following: I am Brewing Monday. I plan on using the yeast cake that has settled out of a NE IPA. Has anyone racked the beer via siphon out of the fastferment and into their keg or secondary and the put a new wort on the yeast cake that has dropped into the collection ball? I It just seems so compacted and I wonder if there would be a problem. I plan on throwing a barelywine on top of cake.... compacted in the collection ball. I don't want to wash the yeast, just drop in the new beer. Anyone have experience with this?

 

[jbb3]

So..... I have been using my FastFerment for about a year and a half. I am wondering if anyone has done the following: I am Brewing Monday. I plan on using the yeast cake that has settled out of a NE IPA. Has anyone racked the beer via siphon out of the fastferment and into their keg or secondary and the put a new wort on the yeast cake that has dropped into the collection ball? I It just seems so compacted and I wonder if there would be a problem. I plan on throwing a barelywine on top of cake.... compacted in the collection ball. I don't want to wash the yeast, just drop in the new beer. Anyone have experience with this?

I have taken a collection ball full of yeast cake from a previous batch and dumped about 1/3 of the amount into a new wort batch and had great results.
So if you were planning on leaving the yeast cake in the CB and just adding a new batch of wort on top, I would change your plan slightly.
I would close the valve and remove the CB. Rack the new batch of wort into the FF. Then dump about 1/4 to 1/3 of the yeast cake from the CB into the wort and let sit for 24-36 hours. You should start to see activity already.
Install a nice empty, clean, sanitized CB and open value.
Assuming the yeast cake was stored cool, you should be pleased with the results.
Report back how it goes.

 

[ejf063]

I have taken a collection ball full of yeast cake from a previous batch and dumped about 1/3 of the amount into a new wort batch and had great results.
So if you were planning on leaving the yeast cake in the CB and just adding a new batch of wort on top, I would change your plan slightly.
I would close the valve and remove the CB. Rack the new batch of wort into the FF. Then dump about 1/4 to 1/3 of the yeast cake from the CB into the wort and let sit for 24-36 hours. You should start to see activity already.
Install a nice empty, clean, sanitized CB and open value.
Assuming the yeast cake was stored cool, you should be pleased with the results.
Report back how it goes.

That actually was option B. The current batch is at mid 60's as it is dry hopping now. I have an extra CB which would allow me to do this. I was considering taking the current CB, inverting it into a large mason jar then when I am racking the new wort, add a couple of ounces to the jar, stir then add to the FF...
I will indeed report back. Thanks.
Anyone just add the new wort to the yeast compacted in the CB?

 

[TorMag]

Check out a way that I came up with to rack from the fastferment into the keg with minimal oxygen exposure. I used tubing attached to a gas disconnect as my blow off tube (had a carbonation cap connected to the disconnect going into some sanitizer). I purged a keg with co2, then racked into the keg straight through the dip tube using the liquid disconnect, and co2 is sucked back into the fermenter from the keg through the tubing that was originally my blow off tube. I call it a closed loop system. I am sure people have done this before, but check it out!

https://youtu.be/RVilNE_ewo0

Nice, going to have to try that.

 

[TorMag]

No problem!! I am glad to share it! I used 3/16'' tubing as the tube going from gas disconnect into the top of the fermenter and I used 5/16'' going from the bottom of the fermenter to the liquid disconnect (5/16'' is just big enough to fit on the tubing adapter on the bottom of the fast ferment when racking).

bought everything to set this up. Going to be tough getting that Fastferment nosel into that 5/16 tube. I assume you soften the tube with some boiling water?

 

[TorMag]

So question for all you closed system no oxygen guys. How do you check on you beer in the fastferment? How are you looking in and knowing your beer does not have an infection? I wish they would make a clear top, so you could look down in. I've asked them about that a couple of times.

 

[DrDance]

So question for all you closed system no oxygen guys. How do you check on you beer in the fastferment? How are you looking in and knowing your beer does not have an infection? I wish they would make a clear top, so you could look down in. I've asked them about that a couple of times.

I'm still a newb (only about 5 batches since Christmas) but I've removed the lid on more than one occasion on more than one batch to check and never had an issue. Oxygen is lighter than the C02 in the FF. As long as you're not churning things around and put the lid back on promptly, shouldn't be an issue.
Simply my very positive experience with my FF

 

[clarkt]

I just carefully remove the lid. There is a layer of CO2 on top of the beer. CO2 is heavier than Oxygen, so it separates the beer from the oxygen.

 

[mrjob]

Hi, first post and new to brewing. Few comments on Fastferment conical and racking.

I am now on my second two-can brew with some ambition to move to more advanced recipes when I have worked out the basics. Few comments having done some recent research and as a beginner.

The build quality of the Fastferment was actually quite good - I suspect that it has improved somewhat over the last few years since its inception as many of the poor build quality comments seem to be some time ago.

The threads do need PTFE tape to seal correctly, but I had no issues getting it all water tight first time.

It is very easy to clean and sterilise, does ferment quickly and allows for a longer 'secondary'.

I purchased the sample tap which is invaluable, but no other accessories. I ended up getting a second-hand stool from ebay (GBP8) and cutting a hole in it - works perfectly, easy to do, looks ok and plenty of old stools on ebay. (see pictures).

Additionally I have been looking at O2 less racking which is very easy with the fastferment... I ran a test by purging lines and King Keg barrel with CO2 and running the beer from the Fastferment into the tap of the King Keg - this is not closed loop with air allowed through both caps, but with some hose fittings and ball valves from ebay (~GBP10 total) could be made so by running a line from the lid of the King Keg to the lid of the FastFerment - that is the next experiment.

video: https://youtu.be/rqunN_4G5rM

 

[MrKelly]

I ended up getting a second hand stool from ebay (GBP8)

It took me longer than I care to admit to figure out what a "hand stool" accessory for the FF was, let alone why you would need a second one.

 

[Jwin]

I'm still a newb (only about 5 batches since Christmas) but I've removed the lid on more than one occasion on more than one batch to check and never had an issue. Oxygen is lighter than the C02 in the FF. As long as you're not churning things around and put the lid back on promptly, shouldn't be an issue.
Simply my very positive experience with my FF

I just carefully remove the lid. There is a layer of CO2 on top of the beer. CO2 is heavier than Oxygen, so it separates the beer from the oxygen.

Not true. If it was, we would walk around in co2 and the oxygen would float to the atmosphere.
Or, at minimum, I would suffocate if I were laying on the floor in a room with no draft.
Gasses mix with even the slightest disturbance.
Example, a fart in a room with no draft doesn't stay in one place.

I'm curious if FF are marketing this disinformation because it keeps coming up in this tread.

 

[jbb3]

Not true. If it was, we would walk around in co2 and the oxygen would float to the atmosphere.
Or, at minimum, I would suffocate if I were laying on the floor in a room with no draft.
Gasses mix with even the slightest disturbance.
Example, a fart in a room with no draft doesn't stay in one place.

I'm curious if FF are marketing this disinformation because it keeps coming up in this tread.

Great example! LOL

 

[mrjob]

Not true. If it was, we would walk around in co2 and the oxygen would float to the atmosphere.
Or, at minimum, I would suffocate if I were laying on the floor in a room with no draft.
Gasses mix with even the slightest disturbance.
Example, a fart in a room with no draft doesn't stay in one place.

I'm curious if FF are marketing this disinformation because it keeps coming up in this tread.

This is mostly true, though worth noting that an atmosphere / weather system represents a considerable disturbance.

CO2 / Air in a barrel is analogous to oil and water in a jar - it is true that the CO2 will settle and form a layer over the beer.

This effect is evidenced if you ever visit a distillery - the washbacks / mashtuns are always in rooms with raised walkways - it is very dangerous to be walking around on the ground in case of a CO2 build up, which would sink to the floor and could form a layer deep enough to suffocate a person.

I would imagine if one very carefully stirred from the top of a barrel one could limit, but not totally prevent, O2 exposure in the barrel.

 

[mrjob]

It took me longer than I care to admit to figure out what a "hand stool" accessory for the FF was, let alone why you would need a second one.

oops sorry, hyphenated