Black malt it is then, I like chocolate malt but I am not really after that flavour in this one. More looking for a dark- ish colour and a little dry roasted finish in the beer.
Have a very similar beer in the fermenter. 7.5# of Chevalier, 1# of homemade invert #2. Mash and boil 90 minutes with Pilgrim and Goldings at 60, Goldings at 30, and First Gold at 5. Fermented with an out of date pack of 1469 supplemented with a pack of S-04.Since I always jump between various styles and never make the same thing, I have a tendency to attempt to incorporate every trick into my brews - and then struggle to really learn anything from my experiments.
I plan to brew a bitter using the homemade "invert no2"-ish sugar syrup I made earlier this year and this time I want to keep it as simple as possible, while still making a delicious beer. It should be pale, grainy, biscuity, with substantial floral and fruity aromas from hops and yeast, with no flavour sticking out too much.
Rough idea: 11 deg plato (1.044 OG), 25-30 IBU, Warminster Maris Otter as base. A good amount (10% by weight? Too much?) of the sugar syrup. Maybe a bit of Warminster crystal malt to maintain body and head retention, but I'm not dead set on that. Mix of EKG and Bramling Cross with roughly 30g total at 15" and 0" each (and a bittering addition at 60" to hit the target IBU). Ferment with either M36 Liberty Bell or WY1469 at the slightly cooler end of things, 17-18 °C.
Bad idea and I should feel bad? Or suggestions to fill in the details?
The 09 Pub is a good yeast. I have successfully revived it after six months if properly stored.i've got a couple quick questions before i pull the trigger on my first premium bitter. i should have brewed this months ago but i laid off of brewing for a while. The imperial pub yeast pack is now 6months old. software says it would be zero viability? Not sure i'm buying that, what do you think? if 60b were viable id cover the 319b i need for a 10.5g batch with a starter. Option would be to drive an hour to the hbs for some Notty.
also-is 8.6% invert #2 too much ?
1.043, 4%, fg: 1.012, ibu: 32, srm: 9.98
+1 for the starter, the pack will be still ok for a starter. You should do a starter with liquid yeasts anyway. Yes, also with imperial yeast. Trust me, I learned it the hard way.i've got a couple quick questions before i pull the trigger on my first premium bitter. i should have brewed this months ago but i laid off of brewing for a while. The imperial pub yeast pack is now 6months old. software says it would be zero viability? Not sure i'm buying that, what do you think? if 60b were viable id cover the 319b i need for a 10.5g batch with a starter. Option would be to drive an hour to the hbs for some Notty.
also-is 8.6% invert #2 too much ?
1.043, 4%, fg: 1.012, ibu: 32, srm: 9.98
Dead and living cells do not behave like that. What you are actually leaving behind is the well flocculating portion of the yeast, containing both dead and living cells. And you are propagating further the not so well floccing portion of the yeast, also containing dead and living cells.The 09 Pub is a good yeast. I have successfully revived it after six months if properly stored.
If you have a couple of vessels for starters, you could do this. Make your usual starter then after about an hour gently pour it off to the second vessel leaving the dead cells behind on the bottom. The healthy yeast is still suspended in the wort and you can add more wort to up the cell count.
I would think that the short time between the transfer, one hour or less would mostly be dead or unhealthy yeast. I'm not an authority on this just had success in using this to use old yeast.Dead and living cells do not behave like that. What you are actually leaving behind is the well flocculating portion of the yeast, containing both dead and living cells. And you are propagating further the not so well floccing portion of the yeast, also containing dead and living cells.
The yeast is not actively swimming around, the turbulances keeping the yeast in suspension are generated by rising bubbles of co2. This force impacts dead and living cells the same way. Yeasts that clump togehter, ie. flocculate can build up bigger mass per particle, this means they settle down and do not get affected by the currents as much as single cells. Therefore, dead cells do not sink more often to the bottom than living cells, meaning by decanting off the mass at the bottom, you are removing the best flocculators, not the dead cells.I would think that the short time between the transfer, one hour or less would mostly be dead or unhealthy yeast. I'm not an authority on this just had success in using this to use old yeast.
cheers
I see what you're saying but when I transfer there is no activity started yet and no turbulence or visible co2 activity yet.The yeast is not actively swimming around, the turbulences keeping the yeast in suspension are generated by rising bubbles of co2. This force impacts dead and living cells the same way. Yeasts that clump togehter, ie. flocculate can build up bigger mass per particle, this means they settle down and do not get affected by the currents as much as single cells. Therefore, dead cells do not sink more often to the bottom than living cells, meaning by decanting off the mass at the bottom, you are removing the best flocculators, not the dead cells.
Exactly and therefore, the yeast begins to sink. The ones which form the particles with the bigger mass sink faster than the ones with the lower mass. The ones with the bigger mass are the yeast cells that have flocculated. Therefore the flocculated yeast sinks to the bottom quicker than the single cells. Which means what you are leaving behind are the well flocculating cells, not the dead ones.I see what you're saying but when I transfer there is no activity started yet and no turbulence or visible co2 activity yet.
I've resurrected White Labs yeast that was 4.5 years old, so I wouldn't sweat 6 months - just do a starter.i've got a couple quick questions before i pull the trigger on my first premium bitter. i should have brewed this months ago but i laid off of brewing for a while. The imperial pub yeast pack is now 6months old. software says it would be zero viability? Not sure i'm buying that, what do you think? if 60b were viable id cover the 319b i need for a 10.5g batch with a starter. Option would be to drive an hour to the hbs for some Notty.
also-is 8.6% invert #2 too much ?
1.043, 4%, fg: 1.012, ibu: 32, srm: 9.98
I gave it a slight bump to .044, 4.2%, 35.4ibu. If the yeast gets it down to .011 I might be at 4.3%, all ekg, touch of brown malt for colorI've resurrected White Labs yeast that was 4.5 years old, so I wouldn't sweat 6 months - just do a starter.
As a general comment, if you're not a regular bitter drinker, I'd aim for a final ABV of about 4.3% - although 4.5% is pretty much the upper limit of cask beer in the real world (pubs struggle to get the necessary turnover on strong beers unless they're eg in city centres) it gets exponentially harder to make a satisfying one the lower ABV you go, so that classic Best level of 4.3% or so is the sweet spot.
And personally I'd go for a bit more bitterness, around 0.85 BU:GU. Nothing wrong with 4% and 0.75 BU:GU, it's just a bit more of a southern/commercial style that way and it's less to my personal taste.
Anything up to 10% invert is fine - again it comes down to personal taste.
I was one of the guys buggering Fuller's and Asahi to make it available in the shop. It worked, but indeed sold out quickly. I managed to get 6 bottles sent to a friend in the UK and will get those in January. Am looking forward to trying to revive the mixed culture sediment and try to clone the beer.Just a note to advise that Darkstar Brewery has. now made available a rebrew of Gale's Prize Old Ale. Martyn Cornell provides the details far more eloquently and knowledgeably that I could. Rush out now and buy as much Gale’s Prize Old Ale as you can
Thank you for your efforts. I got three bottles that arrived at my daughters and I will be meeting up with them in a few weeks.I was one of the guys buggering Fuller's and Asahi to make it available in the shop. It worked, but indeed sold out quickly. I managed to get 6 bottles sent to a friend in the UK and will get those in January. Am looking forward to trying to revive the mixed culture sediment and try to clone the beer.
Hi guys,
I finally got through this amazingly long thread. Very nice topic, lots to discuss. My favourite English ale is definitely the Timothy Taylor Landlord, because it tastes amazing and its simple recipe is quite easy to reproduce.
I recently tried to clone the Meantime Now IPA that was designed in collaboration with the Craft Beer Channel. Quite a nice bunch of fruits from the modern English hops, though my reverse-engineered recipe differed a bit from the original that they released later. I just published the recipe video.
I was one of the guys buggering Fuller's and Asahi to make it available in the shop. It worked, but indeed sold out quickly. I managed to get 6 bottles sent to a friend in the UK and will get those in January. Am looking forward to trying to revive the mixed culture sediment and try to clone the beer.
It would be great if yeast did actively swim around though. Especially if they had shark fins. Imagine how exciting that would be.The yeast is not actively swimming around, the turbulances keeping the yeast in suspension are generated by rising bubbles of co2. This force impacts dead and living cells the same way. Yeasts that clump togehter, ie. flocculate can build up bigger mass per particle, this means they settle down and do not get affected by the currents as much as single cells. Therefore, dead cells do not sink more often to the bottom than living cells, meaning by decanting off the mass at the bottom, you are removing the best flocculators, not the dead cells.
Spot on, this.I've resurrected White Labs yeast that was 4.5 years old, so I wouldn't sweat 6 months - just do a starter.
As a general comment, if you're not a regular bitter drinker, I'd aim for a final ABV of about 4.3% - although 4.5% is pretty much the upper limit of cask beer in the real world (pubs struggle to get the necessary turnover on strong beers unless they're eg in city centres) it gets exponentially harder to make a satisfying one the lower ABV you go, so that classic Best level of 4.3% or so is the sweet spot.
And personally I'd go for a bit more bitterness, around 0.85 BU:GU. Nothing wrong with 4% and 0.75 BU:GU, it's just a bit more of a southern/commercial style that way and it's less to my personal taste.
Anything up to 10% invert is fine - again it comes down to personal taste.
Ba-by yeast dob duuu dob duu da dub....It would be great if yeast did actively swim around though. Especially if they had shark fins. Imagine how exciting that would be.
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