DIY glycol chilled plastic conical fermenters

[mrjofus1959]

I'm sure this should probably go under the "For Sale" section on the forum, but since this is one of the plastic conical threads I thought I'd post here...

I have two brand-new-in-the-box Ace Rotomold A-INFD15-19 15 gal tanks for sale (e.g. http://www.plastic-mart.com/product/5813/15-gallon-cone-inductor-tank-fully-draining-infd15-19). I'm in Fort Collins, CO so I'm looking for a front range CO buyer who could pick them up and pay no shipping. Price is $50 each.

Cheers!

 

[CrowbarKarl]

PM sent. I can send you packet's original walk through instructions on how to do this. It's easy. I was intimidated by the BCS interface and still am, but Packet's instructions are simple and do what you'll need.

TD


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

Do you still have his instructions or a PDF of his entire build? I'm mainly looking for the control panel instructions, wiring, and programming. Any help or links would be appreciated since the URL took a crap!

Thanks

 

[TrickyDick]

Been contemplating my system. Been on brewing hiatus since February. Stupidly left some be in the tanks without cleaning. Had nasty nasty stuff by the time I finally cleaned them.

The plastic tanks with the horrid lip where the CIP ball can't touch is a problem. I am considering removing them to pressure wash and invert to let some bleach water dwell in the "lip" section.

I have devised a plan to retrofit my Blichmann 14 gallon to run in one of the conical locations. I just can't tolerate lifting a full conical into and about of the freezer anymore. I'm getting old.

So here is the plan. Bought a spare handle. Mount to third leg. Opened up the handles will let me bolt the conical into the cutout in my stand deck.

Next step. Buy hole punch. Punch two holes in the lid for the cooling coil and ensure that the coil will fit properly into the Blichmann. Pretty sure it will work fine.

Next step. Use blowoff TC port at the top to attach a tee and get a long thermowell, and side hole for blowoff. Alternately, buy a wellness thermowell and punch a hole in the side.

Need to get some ghetto brackets to secure the legs, and check clearance for cleaning bucket, and what not.

And wow, even with the sale on the Blichmann conicals, the brewmaster edition chronical fermentors are an easy off the shelf swap out for the other two plastic tanks if I ever can save the cash.

In the meanwhile, I bought a couple extension tubes for the FTSS setup to see how they are made, and I think I am going to cut and weld those slick fittings onto the Blichmann coil. Ends in place of the compression fitting/shim/locknut setup I have now. I might also ditch the hydraulic quick disconnects and setup a co2 purge port to clear the coils and coolant lines on a per tank basis.

Another plan I have, though not really necessary in FL, is to provide heating. I did install some 25 watt reptile heat cords around the base of each plastic tank. Well, I bought a electronic salon 4 relay board that I am thinking about adding into my control box, which I need to remount anyway, so that I can warm up Belgians, and saisons or if it gets really cold. Then I would need to install some outlets into which to plug the 120vac heating cords that would be controlled by the relays operated by the BCS. I think that I can handle 3 more outputs.

Last thoughts on revamping my system are removing the tops of the plastic conical and installing a large o ring and HPDE disc to act as the lid. I am wondering how to ensure it fits airtight, if the weight of the suspended coil alone would be enough. I know at least one other person did this, but I think that they used some type of bolt/wing nut to tighten the seal. This might "fix" the main issues with this conical design which are: difficult to obtain airtight seal on lid; difficulty ensuring the through-lid coil connections are also airtight on the curved lid; ditto on the through the lid TC port.

I know that @packet ( or is it #packet) is kicking around here again somewhere. I thought he had hinted at some other tweaks he had in store himself.

If I do retain the plastic tanks for a while, I'll consider getting the floor stands as I swap them out with stainless and save for sour projects. I would also consider ditching the three piece ball valves on the dip tubes as well, in favor of a butterfly valve so I don't have to clean them after every use.

TD.

 

[LiquidFlame]

Why is this entire thread in the "For Sale" section?

 

[TrickyDick]

I have been thinking hard about how to fix the lid issue, and I think I have struck upon a valid solution.

Cut out the upper ring/lid so the top of the conical inside is flat and deburr. Then, find a suitable lid. I need to make some measurements of course, but, I am thinking I might be able to a set of inexpensive racing stainless steel hub cap covers which a 16" as my new conical lids.
I have a buddy that does welding and he could maybe weld in some TC ferrules to the lids. These I could use for CIP ball, and put a PRV and blow off port in, or just buy TC caps with those off the shelf.
The coils, I suppose I could weld to the lid directly through holes and be done with it, but a removable to clean option is appealing, and I could retain the extension tubes for the FTSS I bought. Welder said that he could cut and weld those onto the end of my coils.
To seal the lid, since my cart is metal, I could do something like the stout tanks use.
http://conical-fermenter.com/7.3-Gallon-Fermenter.html
I'd have to figure a way to do this, but seems like it would be super easy to have welder weld a common upper beam, and some side legs could bolt to my cart-top so I could easily remove the whole thing. Drill and tap holes able the tanks to create a seal with o ring or gasket of some type.

This sees like it would be incredibly less money than buying a bunch of stainless SS brewtech conicals with their aluminum is cheap, the welding would be too, the steel discs and three ferrules, would be less than $150 including the clamps and off the shelf caps hopefully. Will probably need a different CIP ball, but could sell the old one. To recoup some cost. Might even ditch the three piece ball valves on the racking arms for something easier to clean.

TD.

 

[WPStrassburg]

One of the reasons I went to the acrylic lid was so I could get rid of the threaded lid insert and I also cut out the ring that was part of the conical at the top. I have no idea what purpose it serves other than to trap junk. I set up my router with a big base plate and a slot cutter and trimmed the ring right off from the conical. Much easier to clean.

I used a few threaded sanitary adapters in the lid along with a tee and thermowell for temp control and blowoff. THe first pict doesn't show it but I have a 25' 3/8" ss coil mounted to the lid for temp control. I think it was a -455 oring which is 13.5" od 13"id to seal the lid along with the stainless wingnuts and pan head bolts.

 

[jddevinn]

Do you still have his instructions or a PDF of his entire build? I'm mainly looking for the control panel instructions, wiring, and programming. Any help or links would be appreciated since the URL took a crap!

Thanks

Back when I was researching this I rebuilt a good majority of packets website from web archives and packets images uploaded earlier in the thread. See hosted file. The wiring section was not available in archives, this is a partial of the scanned document.

Note:

• I ended up going with ss conicals as once triclamp hardware and cooling was added the cost adder for stainless wasn't large.

• The BCS software has been updated a lot. It is more stable and has more features. The logic behind setting everything up is the same (and very easy) but the step by step has changed. It is very simple (including heating)... I can answer any questions you have.

• Note the scanned electrical section is not in order and is missing pages. Also I could not find the same relay board and had to find another. Wiring is very simple and I can answer any questions you have.

 

[TrickyDick]

One of the reasons I went to the acrylic lid was so I could get rid of the threaded lid insert and I also cut out the ring that was part of the conical at the top. I have no idea what purpose it serves other than to trap junk. I set up my router with a big base plate and a slot cutter and trimmed the ring right off from the conical. Much easier to clean.

I used a few threaded sanitary adapters in the lid along with a tee and thermowell for temp control and blowoff. THe first pict doesn't show it but I have a 25' 3/8" ss coil mounted to the lid for temp control. I think it was a -455 oring which is 13.5" od 13"id to seal the lid along with the stainless wingnuts and pan head bolts.

Cool.

I have pretty much all the stuff I need to adapt my lid to create a positive seal and make the coil thru the lid as close to sanitary as I can, with removable coil, and a purge valve for the coolant line. I think that I will retain the the hydraulic fittings as long as they continue working since I already have them. As inexpensive as the individual pieces were, I've spent a considerable amount and already and I still need to pay the welder, but he is a friend. Still need to source some o rings, but I want to see the lids and how they will mate to the tanks. I am also waiting to cut until I get the lids.

Couple questions: Where did you buy the o rings? How did you cut the tank accurately and do you have any suggestions? I am thinking about jig saw and then touch up with spiral saw if needed. I would consider other options if I could think of any. I think I can attach router bits to my spiral saw too, though I've never used one. How did you cut the channel for the o ring? I might end up just buying a sheet of rubber or silicone gasket material or something. I have a feeling it is going to be tedious no matter what I end up doing.

Last final thing to figure out for my revision is how to use the overhead rail to create downforce on the lid sufficient to seal it. I don't expect it'll take much. I need to study the stout tank pictures!!

TD.

 

[WPStrassburg]

My o rings are a -456 size and they are Parco brand but I can't remember where I got them from. I think they are epdm or nitrile.



http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1372



These are pretty reasonable priced rom what I remember though.

To cut the fermenter and groove I used my router. I used a winged slot cutter to cut the lip out of the top and a big base plate on the router to span the opening.

http://assets.rockler.com/media/cat...3525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/9/2/92145-04-1000.jpg

For the groove I used a circle cutting base on the router and a 1/4" spiral bit.

 

[TrickyDick]

My o rings are a -456 size and they are Parco brand but I can't remember where I got them from. I think they are epdm or nitrile.



http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1372



These are pretty reasonable priced rom what I remember though.

To cut the fermenter and groove I used my router. I used a winged slot cutter to cut the lip out of the top and a big base plate on the router to span the opening.

http://assets.rockler.com/media/cat...3525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/9/2/92145-04-1000.jpg

For the groove I used a circle cutting base on the router and a 1/4" spiral bit.

You made the cuts all freehand?

I think I've hit a stumbling block with my plan. The "lids" I bought on eBay turn out to be domed, not flat, and on the inner aspect have apparently a crimped in clip (they are intended to be used as hubcaps) that I am not able to remove. This would require grinding the edge I believe to remove, and I suspect then buffing the edges so as not to cut myself, and being careful not to remove much material in order to preserve the flat edge for sealing, which is about 1cm wide. And I still haven't found 16" seals. O ring probably won't work.

Anybody need some 16" hubcaps?

Live and learn. I'm not sure I want to sink more money or time into trying to get the plastic tanks functional with sealed lids.

I have never used a router or slot cutter, nor do I own either or have friends that do for possible borrowing.

Tempted to go with a stainless solution, and use the existing BCS glycol setup, wrapping drainage hose around the exterior (as per another thread) rather than indwelling coils, then part out stuff on the conicals unless someone locally wanted to pick up whole unit.

Need to think about the next step. My last "plan" Has me more than just a little bummed out right now.

 

[TrickyDick]

Back when I was researching this I rebuilt a good majority of packets website from web archives and packets images uploaded earlier in the thread.

Note:

• I ended up going with ss conicals as once triclamp hardware and cooling was added the cost adder for stainless wasn't large.

• The BCS software has been updated a lot. It is more stable and has more features. The logic behind setting everything up is the same (and very easy) but the step by step has changed. It is very simple (including heating)... I can answer any questions you have.

• Note the scanned electrical section is not in order and is missing pages. Also I could not find the same relay board and had to find another. Wiring is very simple and I can answer any questions you have.

Can you post up some pics on your conicals? What brand? How are you heating and cooling them? I have ability to heat mine but it is not fully implemented (yet). Which relay board did you go with (electronics salon?).

 

[jddevinn]

Can you post up some pics on your conicals? What brand? .

This project is in one of those "working but still needs refining" stages so things are pulled apart in most of the pictures. If you want pictures of anything specific let me know and I can snap them.

I went with the SSBrew conicals. The only negatives I find with them are the threaded connections. I replaced the valves before using and the cooling coil connections aren't sanitary anyway so I don't see having a no weld thermowell as a big deal.

I bought the first conical a couple months ago and used it to "test" by idea to make sure everything would work right. I built the coil for this one in the same way as mentioned in this thread and installed through the top. In the meantime SSbrew released their "professional" version that included sanitary valves and a cooling coil. While looking much smaller than my homemade coil it works good and ended up being cheaper than making my own and replacing valves. So now I have (1) that I made the coil and (2) with SSbrew coils.

How are you heating and cooling them?

I am cooling them with the method discussed in this thread, glycol reserve and interior cooling coils. I have some Flexwatt reptile heaters wrapped around the outside for heat. They are VERY slow to change a temperature, but hold very well.

Programing the BCS for heater control is simpler than it was made out to be. In each Fermenter Control Process have the start state be Cooling and simply add an exit condition that says if the temperature goes below ## switch state to Heat. In the Heat state turn on the heater with the Direct ON/OFF control. Add a exit condition that says if the temperature gets above ### switch back to Cooling.

Which relay board did you go with (electronics salon?).

To control the valves I used this relay board from Ebrewsupply. To control the A/C and the pump I used (2) relays directly in the panel. To control the heaters I ran the low voltage signal line for each conical to a common auxiliary panel behind the conicals and used (3) relays in this panel. If I had planned better I would have fit the heater relays in the panel itself.

 

[TrickyDick]

Thanks. Is that copper tubing you used for the glycol!!

What size or wattage is the flex a watt. Is that the reptile cord stuff?? I wrapped some on my plastic tanks but have never used them. I live in Florida and would only need it for doing saison or Belgian brews. I Think mine are 25 watt, but heat transfer across the plastic is probably so terrible that will not work well. If/when I switch to SS conicals, I think I would forego submerged coils, and either wrap copper tubing around the conicals, or wrap rubber drainage hose with DIY PVC fittings (a much cheaper option) and also a heat source such as the plastic carboy type resistive film or reptile cord or something. I'm not a fan of a peltier unit for heating or cooling because in my experience, they fail and are power hogs. Another option is to run a heating element in the glycol bath, like an aquarium heater, but then all of you tanks would be forced into a heat only mode. Could be OK if you aren't doing any lagering I suppose, and into secondary fermentation stage on the other other tank and could just temporarily turn off. I think the stout kettle website has plans for a <$200 peltier temp controller. Maybe it's worth a revisit.

I'm still trying to figure a way to implement my hubcap lids, but I suspect is going to require a grinder....

 

[TrickyDick]

Hubcaps

View attachment 1453830562326.jpg

 

[jddevinn]

Thanks. Is that copper tubing you used for the glycol!!

What size or wattage is the flex a watt. Is that the reptile cord stuff?? I wrapped some on my plastic tanks but have never used them. I live in Florida and would only need it for doing saison or Belgian brews. I Think mine are 25 watt, but heat transfer across the plastic is probably so terrible that will not work well. If/when I switch to SS conicals, I think I would forego submerged coils, and either wrap copper tubing around the conicals, or wrap rubber drainage hose with DIY PVC fittings (a much cheaper option) and also a heat source such as the plastic carboy type resistive film or reptile cord or something. I'm not a fan of a peltier unit for heating or cooling because in my experience, they fail and are power hogs. Another option is to run a heating element in the glycol bath, like an aquarium heater, but then all of you tanks would be forced into a heat only mode. Could be OK if you aren't doing any lagering I suppose, and into secondary fermentation stage on the other other tank and could just temporarily turn off. I think the stout kettle website has plans for a <$200 peltier temp controller. Maybe it's worth a revisit.

I'm still trying to figure a way to implement my hubcap lids, but I suspect is going to require a grinder....

Yea I used copper tubing. I find that it is easier to work with the the plastic stuff and will probably last better in the cold temperatures.

Heating element is 20W per foot. I have about 2-3' on each fermenter. The insulation is wrapped around the heaters so most of the energy should transfer to the stainless and the beer. If you wanted to heat faster there is no reason that the heating element couldn't be double or triple wrapped.

Rubber drainage hose is definitely cheaper and arguably better than using an interior coil.

Runnin the heating element in the glycol bath would be a power waste. As soon as you want to heat you are going to put energy in to change the temperature of the whole mass of coolant. As soon as you want to cool you are going to have to use the A/C to transfer all that heat back out. It's colder in NC but it's not uncommon for my system to be running heaters at night and in the morning, then switch to coolant when trying to maintain ~65°F.

You're not going to be able to cold crash with a peltier.

 

[TrickyDick]

Thanks. I ended up grinding one of the four hubcaps then removing the black clips. After grinding the first one, I discovered that I could more easily pry the clips out by applying leverage to dislodge the small angle on the end of the black piece. I was able to remove the clips on the remaining 3 hubcaps turned lids without any grinding. They are the perfect size. A bit flimsy though so I am uncertain if they will tolerate the coils. They are domed however, so that will help. I need to see about the ferrule being welded on next week. Not sure if I should offset them, or put them in the center. I also need to see about some seals.....

Ill post up some pics later.

TD

 

[TrickyDick]

Here are a few pictures of the SS "hubcaps" turned into lids, almost.

Getting finished cutting holes for ferrules today or tomorrow.
Will get them to a friend who does TIG welding, other friend who cut them has only MIG welding, which I understand is more prone to scorch the metal.

Once that is done, I'll need to find some type of gasket or seal material, then cut out the existing lid apparatus and smooth out the plastic.

Finally, have some brackets planned on which to mount a cross-member over the top of the lids, and will then use some type of threaded rod to tighten down the lids forcing an airtight seal.

I'll probably take a nice clean sponge soaked in star-san or rubbing alcohol or something and give the upper lip of the tanks a good rub down before thoroughly cleaning these suckers out. I suspect that this will still be a problem with the domed lid and CIP ball too high to blast that area.

Well if all else fails, will swap out with Stainless Steel tanks and call it quits on the plastic.

TD

 

[TrickyDick]

Well I have the first lid back with ferrule welded on. misqueue on the hole being cut so had to improvise. Going to try the first one and see how it works before doing the others, which will require more ferrules, as you can see in the photos.
Welder said that the lid was very difficult to weld because the material is so thin and expands so it's sort of warped a bit. For a lid though I'm not terribly concerned.
I'll attach pics from my phone in a second. Not bad welds from a guy who has never done sanitary welding. I figure if I get and krausen on them, I can hit the welds with a torch after cleaning worst case.

TD

 

[TrickyDick]

Pics

View attachment 1455563570498.jpg

View attachment 1455563591925.jpg

View attachment 1455563606424.jpg

 

[WPStrassburg]

Why don't you put one ferrule inside and one outside of the lid so you can attach a sprayball inside, or was that the plan and something went wrong?

 

[TrickyDick]

Yeah, that is the plan. Was only supposed to be a single ferrule welded to the lid, but guy cut hole too big, and had to use a second ferrule without resorting to scrapping the lids, then weld a second ferrule to the first.

The CIP ball I'm using will work without needing another ferrule inside the lid. It's a cover plate with a npt fitting on each side and the CIP ball is threaded. This was so I can adjust it with pipe fittings to rest lower or higher in the conicals if necessary.

TD.

 

[TrickyDick]

Found o-rings. 4 shipped for $33. Ended up with epdm -462 which should be a perfect fit. Now I'll.just need the braces and some hardware and I'm.good to go.

 

[boat_eggs]

im just putting the finishing touches on my first fermentor and was wondering if anyone here remembered the trick of using orings in a compression fittings on the cooling loop?

 

[jddevinn]

im just putting the finishing touches on my first fermentor and was wondering if anyone here remembered the trick of using orings in a compression fittings on the cooling loop?

What "trick" is that? I've seen replacing the larger ferral with O'rings when using SS compression fittings on copper pipe..... but at that point why use a compression fitting instead of just soldering on a NPT connection.

 

[TrickyDick]

What "trick" is that? I've seen replacing the larger ferral with O'rings when using SS compression fittings on copper pipe..... but at that point why use a compression fitting instead of just soldering on a NPT connection.

I don't think that the OP plans had any such tricks or even O-rings in the cooling circuit.

There was in the dip tube though.

I'm getting ready to post some pictures of my modified lid setup soon. I think I might need to do a little router work on the MDPE tanks to keep the O-rings seated. I'm nervous as I've never used a router before.

TD

 

[boat_eggs]

I googled a little harder and found it. 2 o-rings in place of the ferrules. I want to go this route as I have read of some people having their compression fittings pop off when they clean and cannot get a good seal after. Ill take a picture of it later

 

[TrickyDick]

Which compression fittings are you talking about???

I am not understanding. The only compression fittings in the OP plans are the 1/2" tube to 1/2" NPT used on the SS coils. I've not seen any posts about the compression fittings popping off using the Brewer's Hardware supplied fitting.

The dip tube is not the cooling circuit and yes, that one DOES use the double O-ring setup. However, that needs to be disassembled along with the ball valve after every use to ensure it is clean, because it has threads and the "compression" nut area, which can harbor "gunk" from previous batch and act as a nidus for infection/contamination. The seal is irrelevant here mostly. I am contemplating just deleting the "arm" since it cannot be easily rotated, and really, you won't lose that much beer. Seems to be simpler to dump main valve until you clear most of yeast, and then rack from side port. I think in my initial measurements, I had between 1L - 1.2L of deadspace below the port hole with NO racking arm.

 

[jddevinn]

I googled a little harder and found it. 2 o-rings in place of the ferrules. I want to go this route as I have read of some people having their compression fittings pop off when they clean and cannot get a good seal after. Ill take a picture of it later

If the ferrules pop on the cooling coil it is because it was removed cold and heated. The expanding glycol caused internal pressure. Best to just drain a little glycol.

Tricky, makes since I didn't use the dip tube section of this so skipped that entirely.

 

[boat_eggs]

I guess I should backup and explain that the original design inspired me but I went in a different direction, stainless. There is so much information in this thread about building a conical setup. I plan on starting a build thread soon as mine is about to go online.

I just figured that others might use the oring rather than ferrule idea on the cooling coils for the concern I stated. I already have a pressure relief idea but I want to make sure my concept is sound before I use more permanent ferrules

 

[TrickyDick]

I'd like to see photos and also would like to see your solution for avoiding the pressurized coil problem.

TD

 

[boat_eggs]

This is my cooling coil welded into the triclover with the blowoff tube also welded in. I read that you can replace the ferrules with two 010 orings on the stainless coil and it will still have a good seal but in the case that I forget to attach my pressure relief it will only slip rather than damage the coil posts, since I welded everything and have no repair plan.

The hydraulic coupling has a compression fitting on one end and a push-to-disconnect fitting on the other. I am going to use 3/8" poly hose for my glycol line going form the distribution manifold to the coils. When I clean I plan on attaching another hydraulic fitting to one of the ends of the cooling coil and that fitting will have poly attached to it to act as a pressure relief reservoir. Not sure how functional this will be when/if I hand clean but Im hoping that my CIP idea will work out and the relief idea will work.

 

[jddevinn]

I'd like to see photos and also would like to see your solution for avoiding the pressurized coil problem.

TD

I have an extra set of quick disconnects, as I haven't built my 3rd conical yet, to drain my coil I just hook up the "hose" side of the disconnects that have nothing connected. Drain into a beaker and add it back to the reservoir.

I thought about adding a tee with ball valve on the bottom QD for a drain but haven't needed to.

 

[TrickyDick]

Well.

my saga with the original design has come to an end.

I came up with some stainless lids with 3" TC ferrules welded on (Had to use two inverted due to miscommunication with the guy who cut the holes in the centers for me and made them too large). Had another friend TIG weld the ferrules together and onto some Stainless Steel "hubcaps" I purchased on eBay which fit perfectly.

After cutting the original lids and their receptacles from the plastic conicals, I fitted some o-ring seals into the remaining 3/4"-1" of the flat plastic part of the conicals. The "lids" have a small lip on the rim to retain the o-ring. Keeping them from slipping inwards was a problem so I manually cut grooves with a router bit on a spiral saw. These aren't the best but seems to function as intended. Read on...

Then I attached side bars and an overriding cross bar above the conical lids. I then drilled the cross bar and used threaded rod and nuts to apply downforce to attempt to seal the lids. However, the seals still do not seem to function at sealing the conicals. I am wondering if it is possible to fix this. I am getting tired of fiddling with these.

Also, for some odd reason, one of the ports for the dip tub has become loosened, and is damn near impossible to tighten and leaks like crazy, though I don't recall ever loosening...

Also, the dip tube and racking valve need to disassembled and sanitized between each batch. I think I've probably run about 3 batches of beer through each of the conicals, possibly less since I don't keep good records. I hadn't cleaned them out until just recently and were full of funky junk.

Also two of three sets of the galvanized steel Hydraulic fittings have rusted or the springs have failed.

I have discovered an EASY way to purge the coolant coils/circuit of glycol by the way if anyone is interested. I plan to implement this on my rig soon.

What's next? Well I think I need to remove the plastic conicals and purchase stainless conicals. I will salvage the fittings and attempt to sell what I can.

For stainless steel replacement conicals I have three options:

Stout has a nice CIP capable conical with a thermowell which will fit my cart. For cooling, I would need to use 1.5" discharge hose ($10 ea) and fashion fittings for running the coolant and for physically connecting to the conicals. These are by far the cheapest option. ($453 I believe).

SS Brewtech "Brewmaster Edition Chronical" has a coolant enabled feature that will work with some fitting adaptions for the coolant circuit. More costly and non-CIP however. CIP is very important to me.

Brewers Hardware has jacketed 15g conical. I am favoring this despite its price tag. The amount of time I have invested into this project far exceeds any monetary expenditures, partly justifying getting the rolls-royce conical.

I need to make some measurements of all three options and see which will work the best for me.

The cooling portion of the build is really a good walkthrough for a DIY glycol cooling solution and the power it has to cool your beer is impressive.

I am going to retain the system and abandon the plastic conicals in favor of a better conical that is CIP and won't leak air, beer, or coolant.

TD

 

[ateene]

I have discovered an EASY way to purge the coolant coils/circuit of glycol by the way if anyone is interested. I plan to implement this on my rig soon.
TD

Ok, I'l bite, what is the EASY way to purge the coolant coils?

 

[TrickyDick]

Use CO2 with a TEE inline with the pump output line and 2 ball valves. Using BCS open the valve on the coil you want to purge, close ball valve (between Tee and pump), Connect CO2 (I use a TC fitting) to the Tee, turn on CO2, open ball valve between CO2 and tee. Works pretty well.

TD

 

[jddevinn]

Tricky, the Brewers Hardware conical looks awesome.... I went with SS Brew due to the large price difference though! If I was 100% that I wasn't going to upsize equipment at some point (I'm pretty sure I will ) then I may have sprung for the Brewers Hardware.

To "CIP" the SS Brew I pull the coiling coil out, clean it with the spray nozzle in the sink then reinstall it "backwards" to run the CIP cycle. I've ended up pulling all the valves off for inspection every time but could get away not doing so.

 

[TrickyDick]

Thanks for sharing.

I bit the bullet. Ordered one jacketed brewers hardware 15g conical yesterday. No doubt will need to do some adaptations on my all in one fermentation cart. The 18.5" diameter will be a perfect fit. Might need some padding on the cutouts.

I'm still subscribed here and happy to chime in with any questions about this thread. I can say that I successfully used the plastic conicals but in my opinion is not a viable long term solution without stainless. The fittings as originally described cost about $1000 plus about $300 for three conicals due to the shipping. The better option is one of the three stainless options I mentioned previously. Could also run a cool zone jacket around a Blichmann or other existing fermenter if you have one. I might attempt this until I can save for additional jacketed fermenters.

 

[jddevinn]

Nice! Let me know how you like it after using for a while. When I do size up there are more options for jacketed conicals but the Brewers Hardware is still a viable option!

 

[TrickyDick]

Will do.

In the meantime, I'm going to try to use some externally wrapped copper tubing around my blichman with modification to the legs to permit wrapping. Wrapped it tonight with help from my son. 3/8 OD x 50' (1/4" ID) copper tubing works nicely. The "U" channel Stainless legs need to be notched to continue to use them and the Blichmann design uses 6 threaded studs to mount to the legs, and I do not know how many of the studs are needed to bear the full weight or else I'd fabricate some other way to mount to my cart. Got some fittings to sweat on to connect to glycol setup. got some 10 ft heavy duty zip ties at McMaster to tighten the tubing down. Planning to use some strips of cardboard vertically and a few of the ties to tighten the tubing, they come 5 to a pack. Once tightened going to re-cycle the neoprene insulation. Not sure the best way to tighten the conical part of the tubing, but not as much of the tubing is wrapped there. The notched legs should also help keep tight to the conical sidewall and the insulation should help transfer the energy to the interior (This is essentially how a fridge works after all). Bottom line is that I think it'll be a good fit in my overall plan without breaking the bank and give me a second controlled conical in addition to the jacketed one that not been delivered yet. I'll take some photos of the project and probably post to a different thread.

TD

 

[WPStrassburg]

Here's my progress so far. Condenser set was piped to the plate heat exchanger this weekend and we mocked up the pumps into enclosures at the bottom of the stand. We have most of the controls and plumbing, just have to put it all together.

Does anyone have v-twins off of the tubing bender that he made by chance? I have 100' of 1/2" stainless tubing for the three cooling coils and I want to make the tubing roller to do them up nice.