calebstringer said:
I believe that's where I bought mine as well
DIY glycol chilled plastic conical fermenters
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I believe that's where I bought mine as well
Yeah, there's one that's designed to look like a PID:
https://www.oscsys.com/store/product/188
Will show you current and set temp. I was considering adding it to mine but never got around to it.
Yeah it will, here's a thread about it:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f235/7-segment-display-wiring-bcs-460-a-390955/
and how to wire it up from the ECC wiki:
http://wiki.embeddedcc.com/index.php/External_7-Segment_Display
Packet,
You said in the blog/website you made, that the chiller could barely fit through the opening. I was wondering how you filled the conicals on brew day. I can imagine hitting the sides of the coil along the opening, which might not be sanitized? Is this an issue? Just ordered my custom coils today. There is a chance I can get a good 90% built by end of the year. How long did it take to modify the conical tanks with all the fittings, and silicone sealant, and jacketing? Also, with the jacketing on, you probably cannot read the volume graduations anymore?
TD
You said in the blog/website you made, that the chiller could barely fit through the opening. I was wondering how you filled the conicals on brew day. I can imagine hitting the sides of the coil along the opening, which might not be sanitized? Is this an issue? Just ordered my custom coils today. There is a chance I can get a good 90% built by end of the year. How long did it take to modify the conical tanks with all the fittings, and silicone sealant, and jacketing? Also, with the jacketing on, you probably cannot read the volume graduations anymore?
TD
I have a spray bottle filled with sanitizer. I spray it all around the lid of the conicals before I fill them. The coils sit in a bucket of sanitizer while I'm filling.
What I've been considering doing is pumping the cooled wort directly in to the conical via one of the ports though. That way I can completely avoid open air and take away one more vector. I'd just have to open the conicals for cleaning and sanitizing.
For the fittings, each conical took maybe 30-45 minutes to measure, drill, and assemble. Pretty easy. The jacketing took a while since I had to cut and measure everything to size (be happy I included the measurements for mine. giant pain in the ass).
I put the flap for the jacketing at the front. That way I can pull back the flap and check the measurement marks on the side. I did seal the cone part of the conical though (helps prevent condensation). So, as long as I have at least 4-5 gallons in it, I can tell how much I've filled it.
packet said:
Good to know.
I'll bet you could probably pump through your racking arm and vent pressure through airlock/blowoff.
Are you leaving the CIP ball in place for fermentations? That way you wouldn't have to open the lid once sanitized. Speaking of all this, have you had any infections?
Also curious about the blowoff tube. Are you getting any blowoff crud when doing 10-12 gallon batches?
Would be cool if a corny type lid could be fashioned for dry hopping and other additions and oxygenation. Using an actual corny lid would probably end up cracking the lid over time I suspect.
Only "problem" with pumping from kettle directly into the conicals would be how to oxygenate without adding in-line oxygenation as another problem to deal with.
I bought a DO meter and used it once so far. It takes a while to calibrate. Anyways, I measured by DO after pure oxygen injection via a sintered stone. Will tell you it was about half of where I thought I was supposed to be. I wonder how the commercial guys handle this aspect.
Thanks
TD
I had one infection, but I'm pretty sure it was due to fruit flies as my garbage (and thus spent grain) was right outside the door to where I brew. I've since moved that further away and the flies haven't been a problem since.
I haven't done any of this yet and it's just an idea for the future, but I was thinking about hooking up an aeration stone to the dump valve. Pump the wort in via the racking arm, let it settle and get to temp, dump the trub of the bottom, add O2, and then pitch yeast through the top. You'd lose a couple cups of wort for O2, but it shouldn't be major. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to pitch though.
As for the blowoff tube, I'm still working on a better seal for the top. The o-rings sort of work, but it's not a perfect solution. I've tried weather stripping, which doesn't do a perfect job either.
Right now the spray ball gets removed after sanitization is complete, and I usually spray everything down by hand once more with a spray bottle once I remove it.
packet said:
I wonder if you can buy the lids separately of experimentation. I will probably try to dream something up for a small opening hatch. The easiest thing to me seems to drill a stopper sized hole through which you could aerate and pitch, as well as use for an airlock.
Is there a problem with leaving the CIP ball in place for the fermentation?
Can't wait till I can start building this. Reviewing the final plans for the welder tonight.
TD
You might be able to leave it in place, although I'd be concerned how far down it drops in the conical. I don't think I'd want yeast getting in to it as that'd be a nightmare to clean.
I got one of the rotating CIP spray balls and an Aquatec 550 pump. Pump is rated for about 50 psi at 3 gallons or so.
http://www.aquatec.com/sg_userfiles/Transfer_Pumps_550_Series_Data.pdf
Hooked it up this afternoon with 1/2" hose. Ball isn't spinning at all. Do these things need smaller diameter hose? Larger?
BTW, finished the plumbing for the conicals. Have a couple of small leaks where the quick disconnects connect to the cover but some different washers should resolve that.
As for the length of time to set up the conicals, it took me a bit of time. Had to rent a tubing bender. Because the cover has a bit of a dome in it it, the fittings aren't exactly vertical so I had to bend each side of the SS tubing in and then out. Took a while to get that part right.
http://www.aquatec.com/sg_userfiles/Transfer_Pumps_550_Series_Data.pdf
Hooked it up this afternoon with 1/2" hose. Ball isn't spinning at all. Do these things need smaller diameter hose? Larger?
BTW, finished the plumbing for the conicals. Have a couple of small leaks where the quick disconnects connect to the cover but some different washers should resolve that.
As for the length of time to set up the conicals, it took me a bit of time. Had to rent a tubing bender. Because the cover has a bit of a dome in it it, the fittings aren't exactly vertical so I had to bend each side of the SS tubing in and then out. Took a while to get that part right.
If it's not spinning, chances are your pump isn't supplying enough water at a high enough pressure. I use a 1/4 hp pump (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X05G1A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20) that does 30gpm. So, the 5.5gpm aquatec is probably a bit small.
for the quick disconnect on the lids, I just ended up bending the lid slightly instead of bending the pipes. Worked like a charm.
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Hmm, everything I read on threads here at brewtalk seemed to indicate 3-6 GPM were good enough. Damn. I've got a 1/6th hp pump for the chiller. Maybe I'll try that out for comparison.
I liked the Aquatec because it was rated to like 160 degrees.
Are you conicals holding pressure? I got a fitting, from somewhere, that's a TC that will go on the blowoff TC and allow me to put like 3-6 lbs to assist in racking to kegs. Hoping they hold.
I liked the Aquatec because it was rated to like 160 degrees.
Are you conicals holding pressure? I got a fitting, from somewhere, that's a TC that will go on the blowoff TC and allow me to put like 3-6 lbs to assist in racking to kegs. Hoping they hold.
Packet, You bought one CIP ball and then swap it on or off each conical as needed? And which one? They have 1" ball with 1"TC, which I think is the correct one. They also have some welded into 3" and 4" TC fittings.. Getting ready to place my BIG orders for gear.,.. TD
Yeah, I only bought one that I swap between. I use the same fitting in the lid for the blowoff valve.
I bought this spray ball:
http://www.brewershardware.com/Rotating-CIP-Spray-Ball-1-2-Female-FPT-Connection.html
I had purchased it before I decided to go with tri-clover fittings throughout. So, I'd just buy the one with the appropriate TC fitting if I were you.
I bought this spray ball:
http://www.brewershardware.com/Rotating-CIP-Spray-Ball-1-2-Female-FPT-Connection.html
I had purchased it before I decided to go with tri-clover fittings throughout. So, I'd just buy the one with the appropriate TC fitting if I were you.
packet said:
Thanks . I bought a TC version.
Ordered all remaining stuff today, minus the two additional conicals, and the insulation wrap.
Last thing I need is the cart, and the the PEX tools and fittings and some other misc stuff from the home despot
TD
I'm going to try to get all the pex stuff out to you this coming week. I've been slammed due to the holidays and haven't had a chance yet.
packet said:
Hey thanks! I totally understand. I'm a good 90 minutes behind schedule because of online ordering! Holidays very busy for me...
TD
What about using a hot water heating element for heat?
Like this one?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKVZUO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Like this one?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKVZUO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
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What would the negative be of using the element? BTW I appreciate all the feedback!!!
an aquarium heater won't rust, won't boil the water, and will generally work better. You're not trying to get the glycol to boiling. So, the heating element is way overkill. 85 or so should do it.
Im not planning on using it in the glycol...I want to use it in the conical
Say I want to do a saison and a lager at the same time...I want to be able to. Im just looking for the most practical/cleanest way to do so
I suspect that it's going to be way too much heat in a small area. I doubt the yeast would be happy. If you want to heat it, your best bet is heat wrap around the outside of the conical.
Thats what I was wondering. I will look more into exterior methods I guess. Thanks again
ferm wrap is the way to go......
My first tank showed up. They just slapped a shipping sticker on it, no box! The shipping was pretty expensive too, I think about $30 on a $60 tank!
With luck I can be building this soon. Have nearly all the parts, tools, components, on order or on hand. Certainly all the big stuff, plus my 3 gallons of food grade polypropylene glycol that I scored for free!
TD
With luck I can be building this soon. Have nearly all the parts, tools, components, on order or on hand. Certainly all the big stuff, plus my 3 gallons of food grade polypropylene glycol that I scored for free!
TD
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Thanks for all the great info. We are starting to build a 2-conical system. As far as the heat tape is concerned, how much heating is needed? I am looking at the Flex Watt and it comes in 3" (6 watts/ft) or 11" (20 watts/foot). Also they recommend putting a dimmer on it so it can't exceed 90F which is the recommended limit for the material. Has anyone successfully set up heating using Flex Watt on these conicals?
I have a 12" wide piece that i use on a SANKE keg, it makes it about 3/4 of the way around the sanke and has no problem raising the temp 10-20 above ambient with no insulation. If you are using it in a sub freezing environment i have no idea of the effectiveness, but if its in your basement or a semi conditioned space you don't need all that much
I have three 30 gallon tanks on a truck somewhere. along with my butterfly valves. The. I can start designing my stand....
calebstringer said:
My butterfly valves are back ordered.... I think it's holding up the whole shipment... I was hoping to build week of Xmas I have off, but maybe not...
TD
did you order through brewers hardware?
calebstringer said:
Of course!! The butterfly valves were the only item on back order.
TD
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I had the same issue and switched to this one:
http://www.brewershardware.com/1.5-Tri-Clover-Butterfly-Valve-Squeeze-Trigger-TC10VBFVST1.html
I like the other one better, but really want to use time off during the holidays to build this thing.
http://www.brewershardware.com/1.5-Tri-Clover-Butterfly-Valve-Squeeze-Trigger-TC10VBFVST1.html
I like the other one better, but really want to use time off during the holidays to build this thing.
I just an email saying mine shipped! Woot! I ordered the squeeze trigger valves tho
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I am going to buy some flex watt tape, but need a little help. I am expecting my conicals on Tuesday, and since I don't have them in hand, I don't have exact dimensions. A couple of questions:
1) How many watts do you think will raise a 15 gal plastic conical 20-30F if it is insultated? Is 100 Watts enough? I am fermenting in a garage that may get down as low as 40F.
2) What size and where should I position it? It comes in 3" to 12" and I am not sure what would work best on the conicals. Anyone know how tall the straight section on the 15 gal conicals from spraysmarter are?
1) How many watts do you think will raise a 15 gal plastic conical 20-30F if it is insultated? Is 100 Watts enough? I am fermenting in a garage that may get down as low as 40F.
2) What size and where should I position it? It comes in 3" to 12" and I am not sure what would work best on the conicals. Anyone know how tall the straight section on the 15 gal conicals from spraysmarter are?
BetterSense
Well-Known Member
I have a 100W lightbulb in a GE chest freezer that easily keeps 3 kegs at 10C even when it's below 0C outside. I think it depends on your insulation.
If you are doing 10 -12 gallons in the fermenter there is only a few, maybe 3 -4 inches at most above the cone. The bulk of the liquid is in the cone. I would think if you covered the cone pretty good with the flex watt and insulated the whole thing well you would be fine.
I am planning on using Fermwrap. Something along the lines of
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XNMI6E/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Probably install two squares per conical, rotated 45 degrees so the look like a diamond on the cone (since I haven't found any for cones) I plan in fermenting anywhere from 10g up to 25g at a time, per conical. With insulating, even just the cone, there should be more than enough of heat. The garage I ferment in sees temp swings of 58-72 depending on the season obviously. Although I am still debating on building a small room in the garage to house these in, and temp/humidity controlling it to a very even 55 or so, for lagering, and canned food storage. Just ideas....
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XNMI6E/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Probably install two squares per conical, rotated 45 degrees so the look like a diamond on the cone (since I haven't found any for cones) I plan in fermenting anywhere from 10g up to 25g at a time, per conical. With insulating, even just the cone, there should be more than enough of heat. The garage I ferment in sees temp swings of 58-72 depending on the season obviously. Although I am still debating on building a small room in the garage to house these in, and temp/humidity controlling it to a very even 55 or so, for lagering, and canned food storage. Just ideas....
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