Denny Conn inline nylon valve...

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
May 25, 2013
Messages
24
Reaction score
3
I purchased a 52 qt Coleman Xtreme, for a simple MT build. I don't want to spend money on a stainless or even a brass ball valve. I try to be cheap where I can get away with it.

I was going to build it pretty much like Denny's, but am having difficulty sourcing the inline nylon valve.

What if I just use a small tubing clamp in its place? Seems even more rudimentary, but I think it will work. The type of clamp I'm referring to can be found on NB's site, and it's a buck. It is part number 7110.

It will be crude, but will it work? Has anyone here done this?

Cheers
 
Used this one for years. Its $2.50 on brewmaster's warehouse. Other people sell them too. The valve is worth the money because you have lots more adjustability than the clamp..... The clamp is limited by the plastic steps molded into the mechanism.... the valve can be finely tuned. This matters if you are fly sparging or worried about running off too fast or slow. link below.

http://www.brewmasterswarehouse.com/product/0101542/in-line-tubing-valve-38
 
Thank you, Gnome. I'll be batch sparging, so is there anything to gain from the adjustability offered by the valve, as opposed to the simple on/off function of a clamp?
 
I like that there is an absolute 'off position' with the nylon valve. ALSO - with the valve it is very easy to control how fast you START your run-off; this is critical because you want to set the bed with a slow start so you don't get stuck when you open it wide open after things get going. Controlling flow for the vorlauf is easier with the valve too. I've used the clamps... and they are a pain in the ass to squeeze tight and then unlock and set at a partially open position. Sometimes they take two hands to use. Save yourself some aggravation especially when you are in a rush because hot water/wort is flowing at the wrong time. Look around for the valve. Its worth it if you are using 3/8 tubing.
 
Used this one for years. Its $2.50 on brewmaster's warehouse. Other people sell them too. The valve is worth the money because you have lots more adjustability than the clamp..... The clamp is limited by the plastic steps molded into the mechanism.... the valve can be finely tuned. This matters if you are fly sparging or worried about running off too fast or slow. link below.

http://www.brewmasterswarehouse.com/product/0101542/in-line-tubing-valve-38
Does anyone know where else someone could get this valve? With the recent (several months) problems at Brewmaster's Warehouse I'd like to get a couple of these from another source.
 
Googled 3/8 inline nylon valve: among the many, many results are these:

3/8" In-Line Plastic Ball Valve - Homebrew Heaven
store.homebrewheaven.com › StoreFront › Brewing Accessories
$2.95 - ‎In stock
For controlling flow from 3/8" ID hose. Used with sparging equipment, draining sparge water and other brewing operations.


Ball Valve - In-Line Plastic 3/8" - High Gravity
www.highgravitybrew.com/.../Ball-Valve-In-Line-Plastic-3-8-p325.htm
$1.99
Ball Valve - In-Line Plastic 3/8". Our Products: Homebrew Equipment > Fermenting Equipment. SKU: 5630CB. For controlling flow from 3/8" ID hose. Price: $1.99.

Both are reputable vendors with a presence in the forums. Hope that helps.
 
Thanks, N_G. Then I'll be going with a valve of some sort; for the reasons you stated.

However, I found those valves at two of the vendors you mentioned through Google fu before I came here (didn't see the BW one until your post though) -- I'm a bit weary, because construction information was vague (only says "plastic" on all 3 sites). I think it's the same valve at each site, though one is a lighter color (or different material?) than the other (Homebrew Heaven's item looks slightly different), I suppose.

Looking for a valve constructed of nylon plastic -- or does that even matter?
 
I ran the tubing through a drilled stopper and stuck the stopper into the hole in the cooler - no valve at all. I wound some copper wire (doubled) around the end of the tube and bent it over to form a hook that hangs on the cooler handle. Hang it on the handle to stop flow, and lower it to allow flow. To vorlauf, hold the container at whatever height gets the flow I want. What I really like is fewer fittings to leak or cause other problems.
 
Certainly, it can work using the gravity/siphon technique noted by NCbrewer. But if the hose gets bumped off the hanger, yer screwed - wort will be on the floor. You can at least shut off the valve (or even a clamp) and walk away with no worries.

I noted that one of the pics was different too. I used the one pictured on high gravity's site. I don't think it matters too much. If it is sold on a brew shop site, then its probably suited to your needs - you are not running boiling liquid through it anyway... max would be 170 deg. RDWHAHB. N_G
 
Back
Top