Yet another... Xtreme mash tun cooler build

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JLeuck64

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OK, I know these cooler mash tun builds have been beat to friggin' death but can I just add my own two cents? I recently decided to upgrade my mash capacity a bit. I started with a 54qt rectangular cooler and just used a stainless braided hose connected through a ball valve to control the flow. That mash tun worked pretty good I thought through several batches. The braided hose eventually was damaged during the mash in, incidental contact with the mash paddle ya know, long story short I replaced the stainless braided hose a couple of times and just couldn't get the grain bed to settle during the drain. I always could see a little bit of grain particulate passing through the hose into the brew kettle. Dang...

So I started reading up a bit and I noticed that several brewers on HBT were dissatisfied with that style of mash tun also. So it got me thinking about building a manifold drain, which also got me thinking about a larger cooler ( ; Why the heck not, after all a larger cooler would make brewing those higher gravity beers a tad bit easier eh? I also decided to revisit "how to brew" by Palmer, specifically the appendix on building a mash tun The diagrams in that appendix that show the pressure differentials based on the number of total drain pathways really caught my attention. That math is WAY over my head but I can appreciate those scientific folks that spend the time to study efficiency. It's the efficiency of multiple drain pathways that really caught my interest.

So the moral of this little story is this: I bought a 62Qt Xtreme cooler, some plastic water pipe and fittings, a brass 1/2" male pipe thread to 3/8" male hose barb fitting, 10ft of vinyl tubing and a tubing clamp. Which by the way cost me less than the original 54qt cooler, brass ball valve and 3 stainless steel faucet hoses I used trying to get a clear wort did... Plus I didn't have to dink around with getting the thing to seal. I went at this project on the cheap. I found that 3/8" I.D. by 1/2" O.D tubing would push through the factory drain on the 62Qt Xtreme cooler AND seal perfectly!

The mash tun 2.0, as I like to call it, only has a 22oz dead space. Once the wort clears, it drains SO much dang faster it ain't funny! No kidding, I have saved almost an hour during my typical brew day just watching wort drain into the kettle! I don't see any grain particles moving through the hose any longer.

I should have called this thread "death to the braided stainless steel mash tun filter" LOL. U guys that are still using a single drain pathway in your mash tuns seriously need to try building a manifold! Don't waste your $$$ on copper pipe to build a manifold, just use the plastic stuff! Cut the slots with 1/2" spacing, about a third of the way through the tubing, and drain that sweet wort... at warp speed!

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That's not PVC is it? Isn't that a big no-no in brewing?

Also my only concern with using a clamp instead of a ball-valve is the lack of flow-rate control.


edit: Nevermind, enlarged the pic and saw it was CPVC
 
Yeah... CPVC it is. Too be honest I didn't know if the tubing clamp would work alright or not before I used it for the first time. I was trying to save some $$$ and was willing to experiment a little. Turns out it is not as fine adjustable as say... a needle valve. I can honestly say that my impression was it's about the same as a ball valve.

When recirculating I just closed off the clamp until the flow rate looked OK. Then I filled up a 1/2 gal pitcher until the wort cleared. During the first two batches I've made so far it only took that first 1/2 gal of runoff until the wort cleared.

Going to brew Yooper's Oatmeal Stout with this set up Saturday ( ;
 
Now that I have a few brew days under my belt with this new Mash Tun 2.0 I started experimenting with fly sparging. I started by just draining the HLT into the MT with the lid propped open. It worked well enough, and I almost had enough pipe left over from the drain manifold build to piece together a sparge arm/manifold. Here is what I came up with. This version is Mash Tun 2.1 and now I won't have to stop to batch sparge any longer... just keep lettin' it drain until I reach full boil volume ( ;

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Made my 1st attempt at a 10gal batch of IPA today. 21lbs of grain and mashed in with 8.75gal of H2O, plenty of room ( ;

60 minutes later I set the grain bed and started draining into the BK, at the same time I let 6.5gal of H2O trickle into the MT at a leisurely pace... 50-60 min later I had 11.5 gal pre boil volume without hardly lifting a finger ( ;

I am going to need more fermentation buckets... LOL
 
Had this C-clamp laying around not really doing anything so I put it to good use ( ; Mash Tun 2.2 now has much finer control while draining!

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That's not PVC is it? Isn't that a big no-no in brewing?

Also my only concern with using a clamp instead of a ball-valve is the lack of flow-rate control.


edit: Nevermind, enlarged the pic and saw it was CPVC

I've got a couple DIY ideas and I was planning on using PVC. Such as a sparge arm to hold a water diffuser over a round mash tun.

Why is PVC not recommended? Does it degrade at the higher temps?

Ken
 
Probably... but I don't know exactly without doing a GOOGLE search. I can tell you from my own experience that PVC is used for sewer pipe and the CPVC is used for sanitary water pipe or water supply line.
HTH
 
That's not PVC is it? Isn't that a big no-no in brewing?

Also my only concern with using a clamp instead of a ball-valve is the lack of flow-rate control.


edit: Nevermind, enlarged the pic and saw it was CPVC

my first mash tun, i used regular old 3/4" PVC. Used it for a couple years. Never got sick, had any off flavors, it never melted, and no one went blind. You wouldnt even know if you never looked in the tun. Works fine, cheap (free for me) and can be replaced easily
 
basically the difference is pvc is good to 140 degrees. cpvc is good to 200

Definitely a nice boat for sure.......OK alright I like your MLT too..:D
 
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