So how long do you typically give this one, before drinking?
I had it in primary for about a month. Kegged and force carbed, it wasn't particularly good right away. It's been kegged a week now and already much better.
I'm thinking with the malt forward style, it's more like a 6 week or more beer. Thoughts?
Da Yooper! Watch for pics tomorrow at the community brewery tasting. I am doing "quality sampling" tonight Hope we get enough votes for this to be a flagship beer - if John Q Public does not vote for it I can assure you it will be a staple at Hell's Half Acre here in the Piney Woods of N. FL.
I am looking to make this beer this weekend. As I am not a fan of IPA's, too hoppy for me, I do like a nice APA, which is what I think this is. Can someone describe to me the over taste and how is the level of hoppiness.
As a followup to my earlier post, I ended up dry hopping early, after about 9 days of primary. I dry hopped 5 days before transferring to keg. I was a little high on final gravity (1.018) but it had not changed for about a week. I think this was due to my poor efficiency with my BIAB technique. So ABV came in around 4.2%.
After a week in the keg it really started to come together. As others mentioned, it is malt forward with a nice citrus aroma and taste. All in all I think this will be a great lawnmower beer with the weather getting nicer. Thanks for the great recipe!
It does taste great! With BIAB, I gradually pull out the bag to allow self draining and then when it is finally out of the wort I squeeze the crap out of it until it is dry and then sit in a bucket in case liquid remains. I don't do any sparging of the bag itself after I squeeze it.
Probably get around 55% efficiency this way which I try to adjust for with additional grains. The bizarre thing is that the OG is actually spot on to recipe, so I'm guessing I'm getting a lot of unfermentables. This is the second recipe that this has happened with so I don't think it's a one off.
I have since built a MLT and already I am getting over 70% efficiency. I also started aerating with pure O2 and this is helping kick fermentation off quicker. But I would still like to figure out what to change with my BIAB technique.
I am making that this weekend. REALLY looking forward to it. My LBHS does not have Whitelabs however. Is there a Wyeast option that would work? They only carry it. I was thinking 1056.
Yes that would work.
Another strain that I like (but haven't used in this exact recipe) is Wyeast 1272. It clears better, and has about the same attenuation and temperature requirements. I'm using that right now in a "Fresh Squeezed"- ish IPA, and it enhances the citrusy hops beautifully.
The other one I'd consider is Wyeast 1332- it's really a nice yeast to use in pale ales, and it has a high flocculation so it will leave a nice clear beer when it's done.
If I could improve just one thing on the next one it would be clearing it up better.
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One last final shout out to Yooper for a fantastic recipe! My last pint and sad to see it go. If I could improve just one thing on the next one it would be clearing it up better. For those of you reading this thread considering brewing this but haven't yet, save yourself some time and thinking and just do it!
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No but I do currently reside there.
So I just brewed a pale ale based on the book BCS but this one looks great. Has the recipe changed from page 1 much (or at all)? I only found this thread after page 93 or so. I might try this after I brew another 2 or 3 batches.
If I'm planning to use WLP001 what temp would you recommend fermenting at? Still 62F? Also curious if anyone has used an English ale yeast
I love WLP007 with this at 64-66. Also curious about preferred temp for the 001.
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