Cost of 240v 30a outlet

[h22lude]

I had an electrician inspect my breaker box and basement to install a 30A 240V GFCI breaker and outlet for an e-BIAB system I am purchasing. He is working on the quote and calling me today.

Just want to have a good reference point. Anyone have this done? How much was it?

I'm ok working with replacing outlets and switches myself but I don't want to mess with putting in a new breaker and outlet especially when working with electricity and water. Figured best leave that for professionals

 

[bbohanon]

Honestly its not that hard to do at all if you make sure the main breaker in the panel is turned off before wiring up the breaker and installing the breaker into the panel. Just be sure you run the right size wire to support that load safely(#10 wire will support 30amp) and I would pull a 10/3 run(4 #10 wires which would be 2 hots, a neutral and a bare ground) if you are putting this in a 240v/30amp dryer outlet.

I went down this road when an electrician quoted me over $2k to give me the wiring service I needed from my home to my shed less than 25ft from my main home panel. After I stopped choking once I got the quote, I said heck no, I can do this myself.

I myself was a 100% electric newbie about 4 months ago when I started my journey to do this myself and had the same concerns as you did, but picked up a few well known and cheap wiring/electrical books and read up on some others journeys with e-brewing on HBT and I was able to not only install that breaker myself, but to run a buried 4 wire feeder 240v 50Amp (feeder run was approx 25 ft from house to shed) to an external building(even dug that damn trench myself), install an additional sub-panel in the outside shed which included service for the 240v 30amp outlet along with a few other circuits for lights,etc., wire the whole building up along with the other outlets going into the building for TV's, lights, etc. and it all worked(much to my surprise) like a charm.

Unless you are having to fish wire through walls to beef up the wire size needed to support the load(and even this is not too bad), you can do this yourself and save some cash for other stuff like brewing equipment/supplies..Grab a copy of this book which is a light read(HDepot or Lowes usually has it for like $6):
http://www.amazon.com/dp/097929455X/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

If you still feel uncomfortable about doing it after reading it, then hire someone..There are also some GREAT YouTube videos out there on adding that 240v service to your existing home panel that show you how its done..its honestly very easy to do.

If you are just replacing an existing dual pole 30amp 240v breaker for a GFCI dual pole 30amp breaker, its a 5 min swap out. Again..make sure you turn the main panel OFF and you will need to move the neutral on the outlet circuit to the GFCI breaker and the white pigtail wire from the new GFCI breaker goes to the neutral bus in the panel. Also FYI as it confused me when I first saw this, the neutral and ground bus bars are shared in a main house panel...this is not the case in a sub-panel.

Sorry to be long winded but want to be sure that you know from someone who was where you were that its not as daunting nor scary a task as you think it is. Just read up on it some and you can do it and keep that $$$ in your pocket.

 

[h22lude]

If I could do it myself, that would be great. Saves money and I learn how everything works.

My basement has 120V outlets. I don't know if they are 15 amp or 20 amp but either way I would assume they aren't #10 so I would need to install a new GFCI 30 amp breaker and run #10 wiring to the wall and install an outlet. My basement is semi finished. It has sheet rock, industrial carpet and drop ceiling. The box is in a small closet. I could use that wall for the outlet so I really wouldn't need to run wires besides going up the wall with the breaker box, on the ceiling and down the wall where the outlet would be. There is currently a 120V outlet on that wall.

I really don't know what this type of job costs but I would assume it is one of the easier jobs for a pro. I would think maybe $200ish. Anything more I may try to do it myself.

 

[flars]

This is the author that made wiring my garage/woodworking shop a breeze. Clearly worded and full of easy to visualize drawings.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1600852610/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[augiedoggy]

The work your describing with your configuration is a 30 minute job for an electrician...he will bill for at least an hour and your looking at about $100-125 in material cost depending if its only 10-15ft of wire which many contractors double costs so I would guess he is going to quote you in the $2-$300 range on the high end...

when I did mine last year it was $100 for 100ft or 10/3 (10/3 has 4 wires btw)cable from the home depot. (since I had a long run upstairs)..I bought a spa panel with 50a gfci which I put near my oulet as a kill switch for $60 and it was like $10-15 for the standard 30A 2 pole breaker...depending on whether your going with a 4 wire outlet which can be about $30 or a dryer oullet which is under $10 makes a big difference..

 

[Owly055]

Nothing to it.......... If I were doing this, I'd run 10/3 up from the breaker box and above the suspended ceiling, then drop it down to the outlet through conduit. Exposed romex on the surface of the wall isn't a good idea and conduit is cheap. Anchor the romex to the joists above the ceiling.

H.W.

 

[bbohanon]

The work your describing with your configuration is a 30 minute job for an electrician...he will bill for at least an hour and your looking at about $100-125 in material cost depending if its only 10-15ft of wire which many contractors double costs so I would guess he is going to quote you in the $2-$300 range on the high end...

This is what I found..they charge about $80-100/hr labor + mats(wire/outlet) and most of the ones I talked to had a 2 hours minimum on labor to do anything including installing a light fixture.

Saving $300 is a new brewpot for me.

 

[MX1]

I paid less than $300 to have one installed in my garage, along with an extra 110v outlet as well.

Worth the price for me as I will be selling my house, and want all the stuff documnted and up to code, and the fact that I hate electrical work.

T

 

[augiedoggy]

This is what I found..they charge about $80-100/hr labor + mats(wire/outlet) and most of the ones I talked to had a 2 hours minimum on labor to do anything including installing a light fixture.

Saving $300 is a new brewpot for me.

yup, My employer charges between $150-225 an hour for my services and another $150-600 to walk in the door depending on travel.... I'm a repairman of sorts though and not an electrician. I make a small fraction of that myself but I'm guaranteed a steady 40hr week... electricians are often independent like plumbers. depending on how busy they are dictates how much they charge.

 

[augiedoggy]

I paid less than $300 to have one installed in my garage, along with an extra 110v outlet as well.

Worth the price for me as I will be selling my house, and want all the stuff documnted and up to code, and the fact that I hate electrical work.

T

all depends on where you are and how much the electrician needs the work...

 

[bbohanon]

I paid less than $300 to have one installed in my garage, along with an extra 110v outlet as well.

Worth the price for me as I will be selling my house, and want all the stuff documnted and up to code, and the fact that I hate electrical work.

T

You got a good deal...The funniest part of my whole experience is that my shed now is more balanced circuit load/distribution wise(which means safer due to no potential of circuit overload) than my house actually is.

The wiring/circuit layout that was put into my house that is less than 15 years old is done more poorly(and passed inspection) than my own wiring job/circuit layout in my shed is currently done.

I am actually planning on modifying some of my existing home wiring now I know how it all works and how it should actually be properly done for better power distribution(and safety) once my ebrewery is completed(still need to drywall the shed).

 

[cuda6pak]

I paid less than $300 to have one installed in my garage, along with an extra 110v outlet as well.

Worth the price for me as I will be selling my house, and want all the stuff documnted and up to code, and the fact that I hate electrical work.

T

Exactly this.

$270 for piece of mind.

 

[augiedoggy]

labor is cheap in near buffalo NY My dad paid $600 to have his entire 24x24 garage with attic wired including a separate 20a circuit than all the rest of plugs and lights they installed.... (12 outlets and 5 dedicated lights as well as switches)... When I wired my hot tub I ended up still having to pay an electrician to inspect it...

 

[augiedoggy]

Exactly this.

$270 for piece of mind.

The thing is it really all depends on the electricians skill level and motivation... sometimes they are not legit or often theres one trained electrician that manages other "laborers" that may not know..do you think that one guy really checks every aspect of an employees work?

as far as installing a simple outlet without all the fishing through walls and such, its one of those things that once a person realizes how simple the process is they are unlikely to pay someone the going rate to do it again... I looked at it as an opportunity to learn a new skill that will come in handy for a lifetime...

 

[JoshuaW]

I paid $200 in labor to have a retired (still licensed and insured though) electrician run my 240v, install a bathroom fan and vent (no existing one in place), and put in an additional 120v outlet in my garage. There was another $100 or so in parts, and $80 or so for all the bathroom stuff. He spent most of his time working in the bathroom, Im sure just the 240v would have been like a $100 job.

That is probably a little better than normal. Like I said, this was a retired guy. He came out and did it on a Saturday morning, it was all very affordable and convenient.

With that said, Im moving that circuit to my new brew location elsewhere in the house, and I am going to DIY that along with the installation of a new 120v circuit, just for the experience. I will probably see if he will come out and double check my work for a couple bucks though, to avoid burning down the house.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Years ago I paid someone to run a 30 amp dryer line.Looking back I wasted my money.Pulling the cover off your main and looking at all those wires is intimidating. Since then Ive added breakers,its really not hard.Look up youtube videos,when you see it being done it makes things easier.I even went on DIY website and they listed it as 3 out of 10 on a difficult scale. If you can turn a screw and strip a wire you can do it. JUST SHUT THE MAIN OFF FIRST!

 

[h22lude]

I took a few pictures of what that closet looks like. Right now the wires for the 120V outlet are stapled to the stud, running across the ceiling and to the box. I could easily do the same with the 10/3 wire. Install the 240V 3 prong outlet near the 120V outlet (not right next to but on the same wall). That part is fine. Putting in the 30A breaker is where I'm lost. It doesn't look like there is room left.

 

[JoshuaW]

It doesnt look like you have any slot open on your main panel, which turns this into a bigger job.

 

[Hello]

Do you know the complete load of your box? I paid $300 for a 20a NEMA receptacle in March 2014. I was quoted $485.25 for a 50a GFCI breaker; however, that quote doesn't include trenching to a shed and a sub panel will have to be installed. For the breaker itself though, that's what they want.

Now, it looks like you do have room but you have to double up those 15s like they have on the top right. As far as I understand now, you need to take 4 of those 15s and fit them into two spaces leaving you two other spaces which will hold the 240v 30a.

What wattage are your elements? 30a won't allow you to run two 5500W elements together. Not a problem if you don't care about back to back batches. 30a will run the 5500W and two pumps together without issue.

A couple of things. You may want to just install a spa panel if you want 120v as well. You also may need a permit which you, as a homeowner can get. Check your town/city website. For me, I can do all of the work I want with a permit. They don't need me to hold any type of license. Suckers. haha

 

[zgja2]

It also depends on if your breaker is GFIC or not. A regular 30a breaker is like $10. A 30a GFIC can be over $100.

 

[h22lude]

Do you know the complete load of your box? I paid $300 for a 20a NEMA receptacle in March 2014. I was quoted $485.25 for a 50a GFCI breaker; however, that quote doesn't include trenching to a shed and a sub panel will have to be installed. For the breaker itself though, that's what they want.

Now, it looks like you do have room but you have to double up those 15s like they have on the top right. As far as I understand now, you need to take 4 of those 15s and fit them into two spaces leaving you two other spaces which will hold the 240v 30a.

What wattage are your elements? 30a won't allow you to run two 5500W elements together. Not a problem if you don't care about back to back batches. 30a will run the 5500W and two pumps together without issue.

A couple of things. You may want to just install a spa panel if you want 120v as well. You also may need a permit which you, as a homeowner can get. Check your town/city website. For me, I can do all of the work I want with a permit. They don't need me to hold any type of license. Suckers. haha

No I don't know the complete load. How can I tell?

Yes actually it does look like I can move replace two of the 15 breakers with dual 15 and make two open spots for the 30 breaker.

I will be running one 5500W element on this circuit and one pump will be on the 120V that is already there.

I would definitely need to check for a permit.

 

[h22lude]

It also depends on if your breaker is GFIC or not. A regular 30a breaker is like $10. A 30a GFIC can be over $100.

Needs to be GFCI since I will be boiling water with an element.

Edit: Yup, $100 for 30A GFCI http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D...r-HOM230GFI/203226674#certona_recommendations

 

[Bobby_M]

I would put a regular 30a breaker in that panel and then use the 50a spa panel to get your GFCI. Since you're maxed out on the panel, the very next project for you is going to be replacing the panel. You don't want to have to rebuy a GFCI breaker that is going to cost you over $100.

Now would also be the time to consider a service upgrade to 200a if you have any plans of adding more electrical devices in the future (like a hot tub or pool).

 

[madscientist451]

Have you thought about how you are going to vent the steam coming off your boiling wort? In addition to running the wiring, you probably should get a range hood that vents to the outside, that will also need to be wired. Your panel appears to be full, so there is more expense to this than just running the wire to an outlet. It will be interesting to see what the electrician says.

 

[JoshuaW]

Needs to be GFCI since I will be boiling water with an element.

Edit: Yup, $100 for 30A GFCI http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D...r-HOM230GFI/203226674#certona_recommendations

You can get a spa panel with GFCI from Home Depot for like $60, which is what most people do. It also gives you the added convenience of having the GFCI right there, which is nice as some designs utilize tripping the GFCI for E-Stop.

 

[Hello]

No I don't know the complete load. How can I tell?

Yes actually it does look like I can move replace two of the 15 breakers with dual 15 and make two open spots for the 30 breaker.

I will be running one 5500W element on this circuit and one pump will be on the 120V that is already there.

I would definitely need to check for a permit.

Good question that I simply cannot answer. I suppose it is as simple as counting spaces and crap, but I honestly don't know. I know my load because an electrician told me. You can get a quote and then ask. They'll know for sure. If your heating and water heater is gas then that helps with some of the load. If your dryer is also gas then that helps further. I have gas heating and water heater but electric stove and dryer. So I have to be careful. Another 240 50a and a 120v will pretty much max me. A sub panel is going to be installed so my main isn't overloaded and the inspection will pass. I am not brewing in the same place as my main panel so having a sub I can cut power to on a whim is useful.


Permits are good for both resale of the home and insurance. If something happens and your new outlet isn't permitted then your insurance may deny your claim. I did not know that I needed a permit for the 20a I had installed in my kitchen. I'm not 100% sure that I did need one but I assume based on what I have read that I did. Why a company would not tell me is beyond me. Money is an object but my safety and insurability is actually a bit more important. If it means I have to delay my project then so be it.

After all I've read and such since starting my electric brewery journey, I feel like I could really pull off doing it myself. Since I will pull a permit and have inspections it feels like I'd be okay. I still worry though so I'm 95% sure i'll be paying some suitable person.

 

[h22lude]

I would put a regular 30a breaker in that panel and then use the 50a spa panel to get your GFCI. Since you're maxed out on the panel, the very next project for you is going to be replacing the panel. You don't want to have to rebuy a GFCI breaker that is going to cost you over $100.

Now would also be the time to consider a service upgrade to 200a if you have any plans of adding more electrical devices in the future (like a hot tub or pool).

This is actually a townhouse so no hot tub or pool lol And honestly, this is the most upgrading we are going to be doing because we are going to start looking for a house within a year. If I can put in a 30A GFCI breaker into my current breaker box and it will pass code and work, I would prefer to do that. Unless of course the total cost for a spa panel would be cheaper and work the same.

Have you thought about how you are going to vent the steam coming off your boiling wort? In addition to running the wiring, you probably should get a range hood that vents to the outside, that will also need to be wired. Your panel appears to be full, so there is more expense to this than just running the wire to an outlet. It will be interesting to see what the electrician says.

That closet with the breaker box is in my basement. 2 feet to the left of that is the door to my garage. I plan on opening the door and venting steam with a fan to the garage.

You can get a spa panel with GFCI from Home Depot for like $60, which is what most people do. It also gives you the added convenience of having the GFCI right there, which is nice as some designs utilize tripping the GFCI for E-Stop.

The breaker box is right next to where the outlet and brewing set up will be. And if I did go the spa panel route, that would be right next to the breaker box so convenience isn't a problem for me. I want to get it done correctly for the least amount of money whether it be move 2 15s and put in a 30 GFCI or move 2 15s, put in a regular 30 and make a spa panel.

 

[h22lude]

Good question that I simply cannot answer. I suppose it is as simple as counting spaces and crap, but I honestly don't know. I know my load because an electrician told me. You can get a quote and then ask. They'll know for sure. If your heating and water heater is gas then that helps with some of the load. If your dryer is also gas then that helps further. I have gas heating and water heater but electric stove and dryer. So I have to be careful. Another 240 50a and a 120v will pretty much max me. A sub panel is going to be installed so my main isn't overloaded and the inspection will pass. I am not brewing in the same place as my main panel so having a sub I can cut power to on a whim is useful.


Permits are good for both resale of the home and insurance. If something happens and your new outlet isn't permitted then your insurance may deny your claim. I did not know that I needed a permit for the 20a I had installed in my kitchen. I'm not 100% sure that I did need one but I assume based on what I have read that I did. Why a company would not tell me is beyond me. Money is an object but my safety and insurability is actually a bit more important. If it means I have to delay my project then so be it.

After all I've read and such since starting my electric brewery journey, I feel like I could really pull off doing it myself. Since I will pull a permit and have inspections it feels like I'd be okay. I still worry though so I'm 95% sure i'll be paying some suitable person.

I do have gas burner and water heater. My dryer and stove are electric.

I'd rather pay someone for piece of mind too but if this is a simple job just replacing a few 15 amp breakers and installing a new 30 amp GFCI and outlet, I would do it myself to save money. I'm ok with swapping out outlets and switches. This seems like it is almost as easy.

 

[h22lude]

How about installing a normal 30 amp breaker and using a GFCI extension cord? I guess that would cost more to buy the cord and then the regular 30 amp breaker than it would just to buy a GFCI breaker

 

[bbohanon]

I would go down the spa panel road based on what I see if you can get enough room to drop in the 2 pole breaker to jump it over to the spa panel.

The Spa panel will get you the GFCI coverage you need and subs out the brewery panel from the main which in my mind is a better design.

I also agree with the rest of the crowd here on permitting and inspection as well for piece of mind and insurance should something go sideways(even if the disaster/fire is not related to your wiring) and you need to prove it passed inspection.

You should still be able to do this yourself and have it pass with no issues if you can find the space in your panel to jump a 2 pole over to the spa panel for your brewery service.

 

[bbohanon]

How about installing a normal 30 amp breaker and using a GFCI extension cord? I guess that would cost more to buy the cord and then the regular 30 amp breaker than it would just to buy a GFCI breaker

Its the wiring itself you need to worry about more than anything else..trying to pull power over a wire that is not rated to pull that amount of power = disaster waiting to happen as it will burn up the wiring(and most likely your house).

Again, grab the Wiring Simplified book or any of the nice glossy wiring books at the big box stores and just spend some time reading over it..its a cheap way to get informed on what you are facing and how to stay safe when you are ready to tackle it, or if you should just pony up and pay an electrician if you still are unsure of the task at hand.

 

[h22lude]

I would go down the spa panel road based on what I see if you can get enough room to drop in the 2 pole breaker to jump it over to the spa panel.

The Spa panel will get you the GFCI coverage you need and subs out the brewery panel from the main which in my mind is a better design.

I also agree with the rest of the crowd here on permitting and inspection as well for piece of mind and insurance should something go sideways(even if the disaster/fire is not related to your wiring) and you need to prove it passed inspection.

You should still be able to do this yourself and have it pass with no issues if you can find the space in your panel to jump a 2 pole over to the spa panel for your brewery service.

Just playing devil's advocate (and trying to learn at the same time)...if I could fit a 30A breaker to power a spa panel with a 50A GFCI breaker, why wouldn't I just install a 30A GFCI breaker in my main box and be done with it? Seems like less wiring to go through.

 

[jeffmeh]

Just playing devil's advocate (and trying to learn at the same time)...if I could fit a 30A breaker to power a spa panel with a 50A GFCI breaker, why wouldn't I just install a 30A GFCI breaker in my main box and be done with it? Seems like less wiring to go through.

For some unknown and baffling reason, a 30a breaker and a 50a GFCI spa panel cost less than a 30a GFCI breaker. In a more rational world, or if you don't care about the additional expense, your logic is sound.

Of course, the other advantage to the spa panel is that if you install it as a pluggable device, you can take it with you when you move.

 

[h22lude]

For some unknown and baffling reason, a 30a breaker and a 50a GFCI spa panel cost less than a 30a GFCI breaker. In a more rational world, or if you don't care about the additional expense, your logic is sound.

Of course, the other advantage to the spa panel is that if you install it as a pluggable device, you can take it with you when you move.

Ha well that doesn't make much sense. You would think a 50A GFCI breaker would cost the same if not more than a 30A GFCI breaker. I'll have to check out HD and price this out.

Taking it with me is a good thought, though I could also take the 30A GFCI breaker with me. Granted I would have to fix the hole in the wall where the outlet was lol

I did just read the main reason hot tubs need to go on their own spa panel is because for some reason some times spas trip a regular 30A GFCI breaker for no reason. The spa panel fixes that.

 

[jeffmeh]

I would think that the cheapest way to wire the spa panel to be portable would be a male plug with power cable from your new 240v outlet to the spa panel, hard-wired with a strain relief, and another 240v female outlet in a cutout in the spa panel box (you would plug your control panel into that).

And taking your 30a breaker with you would only work if you had a compatible service panel in your new place. Neither worth counting on nor worrying about, IMO.

 

[h22lude]

I would think that the cheapest way to wire the spa panel to be portable would be a male plug with power cable from your new 240v outlet to the spa panel, hard-wired with a strain relief, and another 240v female outlet in a cutout in the spa panel box (you would plug your control panel into that).

And taking your 30a breaker with you would only work if you had a compatible service panel in your new place. Neither worth counting on nor worrying about, IMO.

I think at this point (whether I do spa panel or GFCI breaker), it doesn't need to be portable. We do want to move within a year but that doesn't mean it will happen. If and when it happens, I can just put a new one in the new house. And hopefully if I can do this myself here I will be able to do it there as well.

So for the spa panel, I would need a regular 30A breaker which feeds the 50A GFCI spa panel which is where the outlet is powered from?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-Homeline-30-Amp-Two-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-HOM230CP/202353325

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Midwest-...el-Disconnect-with-GFI-UG412RMW250P/100686230


Edit: why does the panel say 240W, 240V and 50A. Shouldn't that be 12,000W?

 

[jeffmeh]

I think at this point (whether I do spa panel or GFCI breaker), it doesn't need to be portable. We do want to move within a year but that doesn't mean it will happen. If and when it happens, I can just put a new one in the new house. And hopefully if I can do this myself here I will be able to do it there as well.

So for the spa panel, I would need a regular 30A breaker which feeds the 50A GFCI spa panel which is where the outlet is powered from?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-Homeline-30-Amp-Two-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-HOM230CP/202353325

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Midwest-...el-Disconnect-with-GFI-UG412RMW250P/100686230

Yes, but it has to be compatible with your service panel. The incremental cost of making the spa panel pluggable is the additional male plug and female outlet, minus one strain relief you wouldn't need (you will need two if you are hard wiring it, one if it is only hard-wired on the input side, though these are cheap). If you plan to move I would definitely do it, but that it is up to you.

 

[Owly055]

It doesnt look like you have any slot open on your main panel, which turns this into a bigger job.

They make standard breakers, and half size breakers.......... It's easy to pull a full size breaker and replace it with two smaller breakers. This makes it easy to free up spaces in a box. Note that this box already has both..........


H.W.

 

[bbohanon]

I think at this point (whether I do spa panel or GFCI breaker), it doesn't need to be portable. We do want to move within a year but that doesn't mean it will happen. If and when it happens, I can just put a new one in the new house. And hopefully if I can do this myself here I will be able to do it there as well.

So for the spa panel, I would need a regular 30A breaker which feeds the 50A GFCI spa panel which is where the outlet is powered from?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-Homeline-30-Amp-Two-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-HOM230CP/202353325

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Midwest-...el-Disconnect-with-GFI-UG412RMW250P/100686230


Edit: why does the panel say 240W, 240V and 50A. Shouldn't that be 12,000W?

Honestly, I would put a 2 pole 50amp breaker in the main to feed the 50amp spa panel. This way you are 50amp all the way back to the main. Its just my preference as I dont like to have a smaller upstream bottleneck in my main when it comes to powering up things.

It is odd that a GFCI breaker is more expensive than a spa panel providing the same service, but it is. The GFCI 2-pole 30amp Square D breaker I have in my sheds sub panel I got from a HBT person who got the wrong breaker(but it was the exact one I needed) for $60 which was a steal as that breaker is over $100 new.

I cannot say enough to go out to one of the big box stores and grab a how-to electrical book on all of this before you go out and buy anything so you know whats what and can formulate a solid plan of attack that fits your build-out.

 

[Bobby_M]

The added benefit of the spa panel is that you can take it with you when you move. Otherwise, you're looking at $100 for a GFCI for this panel and then doing it again when you buy a house with a different brand panel.. Long story short, there is very little reason to put a GFCI directly in your panel.