Building a Brewtroller Electric Brewery - Considerations

[Saboral]

I’m in the process of outfitting a brewtroller electric brewery. I have looked at the various configurations and designs. It seems like folks are either down 2 elements or 4 elements (commercial settings). I currently have a Brutus 10 propane setup and I direct fire my mash tun.

Originally I was thinking I would have an element in the boil kettle, and element in the HLT, and a RIMS tube for the mash recirc.

This would put me at an 80amp system I believe. I want to have the ability to run two separate batches simultaneously step wise.

Am I doing overkill here? I suppose in theory that I can still run it step wise with a HERMs system and two elements.

 

[kh54s10]

I haven't fully explored electric breweries. But, most that I have seen is that you do a 30 amp panel to run one element at a time and 50 amp if you run 2 elements. This allows you to be running a new batch while boiling the first.

This would be for 5 to 15 gallon systems. If you are looking larger you may need more amperage.

 

[BeardedBrews]

Rims shouldn't need a full 5500w, many builds run a low density 1650 or similar and even that doesn't see full power all the time.

That said, you probably wouldn't have all three elements running at once if you're doing a 2 batch day.

Highest draw would probably be bringing batch 1 to boil and strike water for batch 2 to strike temp, 100% on two 5500w. But you probably wouldn't be engaging the rims at that point. Next might be maintaining the boil and the mash while heating batch 2 sparge water, but you almost certainly won't be booiling at 100%, and depending on how long you mash/sparge you might not have to start the sparge water until the boil was done.

5500w 23amps
5500w 23amps
1650w 8amps
Chugger 2amps
Chugger 2amps

Total 58amps

I would be likely to wire for 60a and install a meter on the panel so I could keep an eye on it.

 

[Saboral]

Rims shouldn't need a full 5500w, many builds run a low density 1650 or similar and even that doesn't see full power all the time.

That said, you probably wouldn't have all three elements running at once if you're doing a 2 batch day.

Highest draw would probably be bringing batch 1 to boil and strike water for batch 2 to strike temp, 100% on two 5500w. But you probably wouldn't be engaging the rims at that point. Next might be maintaining the boil and the mash while heating batch 2 sparge water, but you almost certainly won't be booiling at 100%, and depending on how long you mash/sparge you might not have to start the sparge water until the boil was done.

5500w 23amps
5500w 23amps
1650w 8amps
Chugger 2amps
Chugger 2amps

Total 58amps

I would be likely to wire for 60a and install a meter on the panel so I could keep an eye on it.

So can that 1650w element be wired for 240? Most seem to list as 120v. My understanding is that applying 240v will cut the draw from 13.75amp to 6.875.

 

[doug293cz]

So can that 1650w element be wired for 240? Most seem to list as 120v. My understanding is that applying 240v will cut the draw from 13.75amp to 6.875.

No. The current thru the element is determined by: I = V / R, where R is the resistance of the element, which is a constant independent of voltage/current. If you double the voltage applied to an element, you will double the current thru the element, and increase the power by 4X. The increased current is likely to cause the wire in the element to burn out, since it isn't designed to handle that much current. It's likely that it would work for a while before it burned out.

Brew on

 

[Bobby_M]

I don't know how you are figuring to be able to run simultaneous batches with only 3 vessels. Do you mean back to back?

24 amps for the HLT, 24 amps for the BK, 9 amps for a 2kW/240 element in the RIMS, 3 amps for pumps. 60 amp supply will do it because you'll never have every device maxed out at the same time.

 

[Saboral]

I do mean back to back

 

[augiedoggy]

You can do a number of things to cut the power usage and make a configuration work... For example 4500w elements which draw 18amps max vs 5500w or a combination of the two like I do. I use a 4500w element in my HLT, 1800w 240v rims which draws about 7-8 amps and a 5500w in my bk.. I use DC pumps which along with my control panel draw less than an amp. this allows me to heat my sparge water while using my rims on a 30a circuit... 50 amps would allow for back to back with 4500w elements along with rims. in some cases there may be benfits vs 60a in cost but if your going to have the wiring to support it ,might as well got 60amps.

I run a 3bbl setup on 2 60a lines and its more than enough. even with the 3bbl setup. I have a 4400w total power rims which still heats/raises the mash temp 5 degrees in one pass at 5gpm because I use 56" of total heating element length with cartridge heaters and its very low watt density. the longer rims with more element contact time works more efficiently than superheating a portion of what passes through the rims very quickly and having it mix as it passes through which can denature enzymes.

 

[augiedoggy]

btw you can get a good rolling boil with 112gallons or wort and only 2 5500w elements it just takes longer to climb.. I found this information hard to find. I have 4 elements in each of my 3bbl kettles and I boil the wort at like 60% power which is strong and draws 52amps total.

You can use relays with NO/NC contacts to make certain elements kick off in one kettle to allow another to work at the same time. I did this with my rims. when the rims is one one of the 4 HLT elements kicks off automatically. my panel draws under 100amps total even though I have 120amps fed to it.

 

[Saboral]

Thank you very much. I’m going to sketch up a schematic of my proposed panel tonight. I think I’m going to go 5500 in the bk 5500 in the HLT and 1800 in the RIMs. Do you have a source of the 1800watt 240v element? I did some hunting last night and had trouble finding much under 2000 watt in 240v.