brewed an extract smash

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Garvinator 70

Garvinator70
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brewed an extract smash today with 3.3 lbs. of Briess amber dark malt extract and cascade hops 45 min boil 1\3 of hops at 10 min . 1\3 hops half boil and last 1\3 hops at flame out . Us 05 yeast. I hope it turns out what ya think ? getting back in to brewing its a lot of work damn . 1 oz total
 
Last edited:
Welcome back to brewing!
45 min boil 1\3 of hops at 10 min . 1\3 hops half boil and last 1\3 hops at flame out
Not sure what you did. Are saying 1/3 hops half way into the 45' boil, at 22 minutes? Or 1/3 at 45'?
1/3 at 10'
1/3 at FO

How much hops did you use in total, or for each 1/3? That makes a lot of difference.
 
Welcome back to brewing!

Not sure what you did. Are saying 1/3 hops half way into the 45' boil, at 22 minutes? Or 1/3 at 45'?
1/3 at 10'
1/3 at FO

How much hops did you use in total, or for each 1/3? That makes a lot of difference.
10 min half way boil and flame out
 
It sounds good, very drinkable. No surprises. Also, a good demonstration of an uncomplicated recipe; you'll be able to observe what the yeast, extract and hop does.
 
Maybe I'm thick, but it's still not clear to me when you added the first 1/3 of hops. While you were heating the wort to a boil? Is that what you mean by "half boil?"
You don't need to boil extract brews for an hour or even 45'. Use a little bit more hops up front and only boil 20 or 30' to get the same bittering.
Next time I will buy the malt extract with hops already in it , no boil a lot faster
I hope for you that you like those pre-hopped extracts...
 
Maybe I'm thick, but it's still not clear to me when you added the first 1/3 of hops. While you were heating the wort to a boil? Is that what you mean by "half boil?"
You don't need to boil extract brews for an hour or even 45'. Use a little bit more hops up front and only boil 20 or 30' to get the same bittering.

I hope for you that you like those pre-hopped extracts...

First 10 min then at 22.5 then flame out
 
First 10 min then at 22.5 then flame out
Ah, OK, that explains it.
In brewing terminology we count down to flameout. So flameout is always at 0 minutes, regardless of boiling time.
That's why we say a 45, 60, 90 minute boil. A 45 minute boil starts 45 minutes before flameout (FO).

So for this brew you did, a 45 minutes boil, first hop charge added at 35', second hop charge added at 22', third (last) hop added at 0' (FO).

In a recipe it would look like this:
Boil 45'
.33 oz Cascade at 35'
.33 oz Cascade at 22'
.33 oz Cascade at 0' (or FO)
 
It's faster yet to just go buy beer already bottled but what's the fun in that? I really do think my beer is better than what you will get by buying hopped extract.

I agree, hopped extract if faster, but takes all the control of the recipe out of your hands. For instance if you did a 60 minute boil and added hops at 60 30 and 0 and did the same recipe with hops at 45 and 0 you would get quite a bit of difference.

You can also get significant differences by adding different amounts or hops at different times.
Take your one ounce at 45 minutes. If you added .1 ounce at your 35 minute mark, .1 ounce at 22, then added the rest at flameout you would get a very different beer.
 
Ah, OK, that explains it.
In brewing terminology we count down to flameout. So flameout is always at 0 minutes, regardless of boiling time.
That's why we say a 45, 60, 90 minute boil. A 45 minute boil starts 45 minutes before flameout (FO).

So for this brew you did, a 45 minutes boil, first hop charge added at 35', second hop charge added at 22', third (last) hop added at 0' (FO).

In a recipe it would look like this:
Boil 45'
.33 oz Cascade at 35'
.33 oz Cascade at 22'
.33 oz Cascade at 0' (or FO)

That is it , how much water should I have used ? I used what the HB store said 2.5 gallons and he said the hops have to be boiled 45 min boil?
 
That is it , how much water should I have used ? I used what the HB store said 2.5 gallons and he said the hops have to be boiled 45 min boil?
If the recipe is for 2.5 gallons of beer, that's the end volume. Depending on your kettle size and heat source, you can boil pretty much any volume you're comfortable with, between 1.5 and 3 gallons.* During the 45' boil you'd probably evaporate (boil off) half a gallon of water. So you'll end up with a volume between 1 and 2.5 gallons of wort.

If you come up short on volume after the boil (intentionally or not), you can top up in the fermenter with water to the 2.5 gallon level. All good.

LME yields 37 points of gravity per pound per gallon (ppg).
3.3# * 37 = 122 points / 2.5 gallons = 48 points. That translates in a (specific) gravity of 1.048 in the fermenter.

That is, as long as you don't spill or waste any good wort. For example, by leaving much behind in the kettle. Especially with extract and average hop amounts you can pretty much dump the whole kettle volume into the fermenter, many do. No wort left behind. Then top up to your batch volume with clean water.

* Boiling smaller volumes will reduce hop utilization (extraction and bittering). So does higher wort gravities.
That's one reason to add only half or less of your extract at the beginning of the boil, and add the balance at flameout.
If at all, malt extract only needs to be pasteurized, really does not have to be boiled. It was boiled already at the malster. And then some.

The longer hops are boiled the more bitterness they yield, sacrificing their flavor and aroma. But after boiling for 5-10' diminishing returns set in, and doubling boil time does not double bitterness. After a 30-45' boil most (~70-80%) of the maximum bitterness potential has been achieved.
 
Things I didn't know: the first post for HBT's 15 Minute Cascade Pale Ale is Dec 6, 2010.

@garvinator70, as @IslandLizard noted, one doesn't need to heat malt extract (DME or LME) long to pasteurize it. There are a couple of different approaches for shorter "boils". The link I mentioned (along with "15 Minute Pale Ale") is one of them.

I’m a little disappointed I looked at my airlock and no bubbles looked in bucket but got a lot of yeast cake like stuff on top so I think I’m good . Used a food grade bucket with a snap on lid maybe leaking through lid or something
 
Used a food grade bucket with a snap on lid maybe leaking through lid or something
Most likely. My buckets seem to be hit or miss of how tight they seal. I stopped worrying about it after a while and stuck to testing the FG after 2-3 weeks.

If you end up enjoying this batch and want to build up your stock, I might suggest doing the same recipe but
shorten the boil to 20 min with half the extract, 1/3 @ 20 min,
1/3 @ 10 min,
1/3 @ flameout + rest of extract. Stir like hell the compare batches after fermentation.

Brewn’s 15 minute suggestion is great as well.

Welcome back and have fun
 
Checked on my brew in today been fermenting for 5 days now,
still a little yeast raft on top
B . Tasted it a little hop forward
Hope it gets better with time .
 
Patience is the hardest Extract brew ferments for 14 days ?

No, the fermentation will be done in a few days, some of the time is for the yeast to clean up by products of the active fermentation, a day or so. And the rest of the time is insurance against a slow fermentation and packaging before fermentation ends. In bottles capped before fermentation is complete you could get a buildup of excess co2 enough to explode the bottles.
 
No, the fermentation will be done in a few days, some of the time is for the yeast to clean up by products of the active fermentation, a day or so. And the rest of the time is insurance against a slow fermentation and packaging before fermentation ends. In bottles capped before fermentation is complete you could get a buildup of excess co2 enough to explode the bottles.

Ok thanks so it will taste better if I wait also right?
 
Taste vs time is somewhat style dependent. A dark, high ABV beer will take longer to peak in flavor. For the average, I would say 2 weeks fermentation and 3 weeks bottle conditioning. You might trim some time off the fermentation, but in my experience you can't trim time off the bottle conditioning. Some will carbonate earlier but IMO, all taste better at three weeks or longer.
 
Patience young grasshopper. If you want to see what each week of conditioning does, put one bottle each week into the fridge for three weeks. On the fourth week, sit down and pour into three glasses. Check out carbination and head retention and the difference in clarity and flavor. I was surprised by the difference between week one and three. Plus a good reason to drink three beers, it's for science!
 
Patience young grasshopper. If you want to see what each week of conditioning does, put one bottle each week into the fridge for three weeks. On the fourth week, sit down and pour into three glasses. Check out carbination and head retention and the difference in clarity and flavor. I was surprised by the difference between week one and three. Plus a good reason to drink three beers, it's for science!

How much table sugar should I use per 40 ounce bottle for bottle conditioning?
 
Here's another ongoing thread on sugar doping individual bottles:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/adding-priming-sugar-directly-to-bottle.671375/
There are some very good pointers in there.
My favorite ones are:
  • Using a scale precise enough to measure small amounts (grams or better yet, 0.1 grams), or
  • In lieu of a small/precise enough scale, making a sugar solution for the whole batch, and dope each bottle with a graduated syringe
 
Thanks to all I bottled it today with 2 teaspoons of table sugar per each 40 oz bottle .I hope they do good and carbonate by Friday , I’m ready to drink it mug;
 
Thanks to all I bottled it today with 2 teaspoons of table auger per each 40 oz bottle I hope they deal and carbonate by Friday , I’m ready to drink it mug;
It takes about 3 weeks to carbonate at room temps around 68-72F. The colder, the longer it takes, especially if it's too cold.
After they're carbonated, 1-3 days in the fridge before opening and drinking makes it better. But you can always sneak one out.
 
As IslandLizard said it takes time. But I batch prime so I don't really know how much sugar. But a quick look shows about a half teaspoon per bottle. I think these are bottle bombs in the making.. Put all the bottles in a strong bin then check one at one week and another a couple days later. When they spew beer all over the place put all of them in the refrigerator and be very careful handling them. The bottles could explode.....
 
As IslandLizard said it takes time. But I batch prime so I don't really know how much sugar. But a quick look shows about a half teaspoon per bottle. I think these are bottle bombs in the making.. Put all the bottles in a strong bin then check one at one week and another a couple days later. When they spew beer all over the place put all of them in the refrigerator and be very careful handling them. The bottles could explode.....
Read up ^^^ his bottles are 40s.
 
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Well it carbonated! Not my best beer made a big mistake boiled it with the lid on it . And my hop choice are times were terrible strong hop astringent taste after taste ! I’m gonna stick with the tried and true recipes of all grain from here on out thanks . All Grain is not hard and worth it taste way better than Extract.
 
View attachment 650938
Well it carbonated! Not my best beer made a big mistake boiled it with the lid on it . And my hop choice are times were terrible strong hop astringent taste after taste ! I’m gonna stick with the tried and true recipes of all grain from here on out thanks . All Grain is not hard and worth it taste way better than Extract.

IMG_0281.JPG

Another pic
 
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