Bray's One Month Mead

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ok read a lot of this a couple questions I got.

I dont have a stir plate could I just take a growler make 1.5 L Starter and swirl it every now and then?

I dont have any glass carboys would a plastic fermentor be ok?

If I do the gallon batch only do I just leave it in the water jug the whole time?
I am sure if I make only a gallon I would wish I made more so might just go for a 3 gallon batch or the full five!


This sounds super tasty and cant wait to make some!!
 
Now what about after I rack it? How long do I need to cold crash it after racking before I bottle it? Sorry I'm a noob.
 
LoR, nice layout as well.

Check out Eurekabrewing.wordpress.com (I think) for some nice work w/ different yeasts all for beer. I used this data for my yeast selection for hefeweizens.

With regards to the BOMM, I plan on doing 2 gallon batches and then after primary fermentation, splitting batches w/ a one gallon control and using the second gallon to replicate your work w/ aging on oak etc.

j
 
larmannjp said:
LoR, nice layout as well.



Check out Eurekabrewing.wordpress.com (I think) for some nice work w/ different yeasts all for beer. I used this data for my yeast selection for hefeweizens.



With regards to the BOMM, I plan on doing 2 gallon batches and then after primary fermentation, splitting batches w/ a one gallon control and using the second gallon to replicate your work w/ aging on oak etc.



j
Click to expand...


I've since found that honey type and oak must match. For instance, orange blossom honey is good with American or Hungarian. Very low amount of French is fine blended with the first two.

Tupelo honey is awful with Hungarian, worse with French, and wonderful with American. I can probably guess now if I know the honey varietal. Feel free to ask.


Better brewing through science!

See my brewing site at www.denardbrewing.com

See my Current Mead Making Techniques article here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/current-mead-making-techniques.html
 
LoR, you're website keeps coming up as Forbidden Access on my phone.

By the way, your knowledge never ceases to amaze me.

I'd love for you to give my cote de blanc recipe a shot when you have time to do your dry yeast trials.

It is the only wine yeast i've tried that has given me acceptable results in a short time period and i'd love to see if your results are similar. I know you said before that sulfites are disagreeable for you so it will probably take a few extra months for you without sulfites, sorbate and backsweetening.
 
HawleyFarms said:
LoR, you're website keeps coming up as Forbidden Access on my phone.

By the way, your knowledge never ceases to amaze me.

I'd love for you to give my cote de blanc recipe a shot when you have time to do your dry yeast trials.

It is the only wine yeast i've tried that has given me acceptable results in a short time period and i'd love to see if your results are similar. I know you said before that sulfites are disagreeable for you so it will probably take a few extra months for you without sulfites, sorbate and backsweetening.
Click to expand...


Try the site again now. I think there was some maintenance going on. Works from my phone.

Ha! Your bound to know a few things when you will try everything...and fail as much as you succeed. I've got a 3 year old Angelica mead that I shudder every time I see it! For the record, I only post the successful recipes on the site.

Which cote de Blanc are you using (company)?



Better brewing through science!

See my brewing site at www.denardbrewing.com

See my Current Mead Making Techniques article here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/current-mead-making-techniques.html
 
LoR, your website loads fine for me at home or on my phone (nice mobile layout as well!). Note, it will not load on my work machine. Security issue I think w/ work; no worries of course as long as I can get to it!

Question: My inexpensive hydrometer (triple scale) is too long to measure a final gravity, in a one gallon glass jug, leaving it in. Can you recommend/Do you have a hydrometer for this situation, where you can leave it in and have enough room to get the FG measurement(s) ?

Or do you leave in for essentially only to catch the sugar breaks and generate a SG v. time curve? If I scale up to 3 gallons, eventually once I get this down, then of course it would not be an issue to leave it in, but then I am comfortable using a wine thief for these measurements, I would prefer not to risk any mishap w/ a broken hydrometer in a batch.


BR,

John
 
My hydrometer will float at 1.000 in most bottles, so I leave it in. I have a few that it will not float even at 1.02. In that case, I catch sugar breaks and remove it.

Honestly, these days I go more off taste than FG. Taste a bit and decide if it's good to go or needs more sweet. Once it tastes like I want, I take an initial FG and then another after several weeks to make sure it's stable. I bottle when stable.


Better brewing through science!

See my brewing site at www.denardbrewing.com

See my Current Mead Making Techniques article here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/current-mead-making-techniques.html
 
My BOMM started at 1.095 S.G. and read 1.002 S.G. at racking after 8 days in primary with a local Texas wildflower honey (couldn't find 7.5 lbs of orange blossom at a price I could afford) is this something to worry about? It tasted pretty good like honey and beery tasting alcohol and has a carbonated mouth feel. I know its not a true BOMM but thanks for the recipe and advice all over the forums.
 
Stupid question #563,876... but better safe than sorry when spending $200+!

Will pasteurized honey work?

Edit to add...love the website LOR!
 
Edbert said:
Stupid question #563,876... but better safe than sorry when spending $200+!

Will pasteurized honey work?

Edit to add...love the website LOR!
Click to expand...

200 dollars?? Where are you getting your honey from? I made a five gallon batch and even though I get honey for basically free, it was no more than 35 or 40 dollars worth. Of course it was star thistle honey not OB. But still, I don't feel like it should be costing hundreds of dollars.
 
Beek said:
200 dollars?? Where are you getting your honey from? I made a five gallon batch and even though I get honey for basically free, it was no more than 35 or 40 dollars worth. Of course it was star thistle honey not OB. But still, I don't feel like it should be costing hundreds of dollars.
Click to expand...

That is for 60 pounds at a time...and includes shipping. I found 60 pound buckets of clover that is not pasteurized for 10 dollars less...but the OBH just tastes better than any BOMM I've made.
 
Edbert said:
That is for 60 pounds at a time...and includes shipping. I found 60 pound buckets of clover that is not pasteurized for 10 dollars less...but the OBH just tastes better than any BOMM I've made.
Click to expand...

Oh okay. Makes more sense. I've heard horror stories of people paying like 12 dollars a pound for honey. I sell 5 lb jugs for 15 bucks.
 
Beek said:
Oh okay. Makes more sense. I've heard horror stories of people paying like 12 dollars a pound for honey. I sell 5 lb jugs for 15 bucks.
Click to expand...

That is a great price...roughly equivalent to the per pound rate of 50 at a time.

Do you have a site where I can place an order?

I can get raw clover (and others) but cannot find raw OBH in quantity without paying a fortune.
 
Edbert said:
That is a great price...roughly equivalent to the per pound rate of 50 at a time.

Do you have a site where I can place an order?

I can get raw clover (and others) but cannot find raw OBH in quantity without paying a fortune.
Click to expand...

We only sell locally in Michigan and to very few people. We are mostly wholesale. We sell the majority of our honey in 55 gallon barrels. We also only have star thistle and golden rod honey. I want to find some OBH too.
 
If orange blossom is the best BOMM you've tasted, then try these varietal honeys:

Meadowfoam - No other yeast I've tried does for meadowfoam what the BOMM does. Pure ginormous marshmallow flavor. SemiSweet is best.

Sourwood - Rich and a bit buttery. A current favorite. Goes down a little to smooth!

Palmetto - Very complex and difficult to describe. Tropical honey also fits this category.

Tupelo - Extremely aromatic with a very flowery nose. I like the FG <1.005 as it has a strong perceived sweetness that can be a bit cloying if over this gravity.

Also, if you haven't tried some good metheglins, go to my site for the Szechuan and the Ginger Herbal BOMM. I can't keep either one in the house very long.


Better brewing through science!

See my brewing site at www.denardbrewing.com

See my Current Mead Making Techniques article here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/current-mead-making-techniques.html
 
Forgive me if this was asked before, can this yeast be harvested and/or washed after fermenting this BOMM?
 
Bray,

6 lbs of OB honey (Northern Brewer) into 2.1 to 2.2 gallons (OG 1.107).
1/2 tsp DAP
1 tsp Fermax (best option that I have)
1/2 tsp K2CO3.
Wyeast 1388 (you cannot find this yeast locally in CT as it is being bought up as soon as it arrives at your LHBS). :)
Fermentation temp should be 66-68 this time of year.

Plan is to aerate every day for probably a week, and SNA's probably on days 2 and 5 or 6. Plan is to split the batch at first racking, after primary fermentation, and then further split the second gallon to age half w/ American and half w/ Hungarian oak. Question: Do you age w/ the oak cubes in the secondary (after say 14 days) or would you suggest oak after a month in a tertiary, if you will?

Best Regards,

John
 
I'm not sure if this has already been asked, but can I just use Wyeast Nutrient for the SNAs instead of all the other nutrients combined (fermaid, DAP, etc.) My understanding is that the wyeast blend has a pretty good combination of all the required nutients. Also, what yeast would you recommend instead of Wyeast 1388? My LHBS is on backorder. I got some champagne yeast back when I originally planned to make mead (never got around to it), but I rather do it right so it turns out good.
 
thegreatbrewnorth said:
I'm not sure if this has already been asked, but can I just use Wyeast Nutrient for the SNAs instead of all the other nutrients combined (fermaid, DAP, etc.) My understanding is that the wyeast blend has a pretty good combination of all the required nutients. Also, what yeast would you recommend instead of Wyeast 1388? My LHBS is on backorder. I got some champagne yeast back when I originally planned to make mead (never got around to it), but I rather do it right so it turns out good.
Click to expand...


Wyeast nutrient is very low in DAP for mead. It's made for beer so it makes sense. For best results, wait for the appropriate nutrients.

To date, there is no alternative to Wyeast 1388. Even the White Labs version of the same yeast is inferior. Sorry! I'm still looking and hoping I can find a second equally fast yeast.



Better brewing through science!

See my brewing site at www.denardbrewing.com

See my Current Mead Making Techniques article here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/current-mead-making-techniques.html
 
Chops1867 said:
View attachment 267223I'm about two weeks in. Smells heavenly. When should it start to clear?
Click to expand...


It clears on it's own time. I've had it clear at 2 weeks or 2 months. These days I cold crash when the flavor is where I want it to speed things along. SuperKleer is also an option. SuperKleer plus cold crash will really drop it clear fast.

I've also been known to drink it cloudy if it is tasty....


Better brewing through science!

See my brewing site at www.denardbrewing.com

See my Current Mead Making Techniques article here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/current-mead-making-techniques.html
 
I have had great difficulty taking gravity measurements. There is SO MUCH gas trapped in the liquid, I can't see the hydrometer because of bubbles in my thief. I also doubt the accuracy of my measurements due to the trapped gas lifting the hydrometer.
Is there a simple answer that I am missing?
This is my first mead and it does trap WAY more CO² than wine or beer.
 
I have seen that Joe has used d47 for a three week drinkable mead in the past. I apologise if this has already been asked (I have read this post into the mid-50s), but have you experimented with this yeast in the past? If so, what were your results? As a basis, i have an uncleared but drinkable dry mead after 3 weeks using the BOMM protocol with d47, and am nearing my 4th pitch on the original yeast for the actual BOMM today, after 3 weeks of orange blossom BOMM (this will be 2 lbs orange and 1/2 lb buckwheat).
 
Chops1867 said:
I have had great difficulty taking gravity measurements. There is SO MUCH gas trapped in the liquid,
Click to expand...

BOMM does have a lingering foam especially in the first 3-4 days in my experience, all I have had to do is degas a bit slower/gentler and take my time. About 10 minutes degassing, swish the foam a little and drop in my hydrometer. Using a thief works as well in my experience, after degassing of course.
 
Danmor1 said:
I have seen that Joe has used d47 for a three week drinkable mead in the past. I apologise if this has already been asked (I have read this post into the mid-50s), but have you experimented with this yeast in the past? If so, what were your results? As a basis, i have an uncleared but drinkable dry mead after 3 weeks using the BOMM protocol with d47, and am nearing my 4th pitch on the original yeast for the actual BOMM today, after 3 weeks of orange blossom BOMM (this will be 2 lbs orange and 1/2 lb buckwheat).
Click to expand...


Side by side testing in my hands shows D47 is a bit fuselly at a month. Definitely not as good as Wyeast 1388. YMMV if you ferment D47 closer to 60 F. Best I could do was 65 F at the time. D47 is extremely hot above 65 F. Not usually suitable for beginning mazers as they don't have temperature control.


Better brewing through science!

See my brewing site at www.denardbrewing.com

See my Current Mead Making Techniques article here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/current-mead-making-techniques.html
 
Tried d47 once and it was ridiculously fusel, hot and dry for quite a while. Took about 3 months to even be drinkable and it was barely that. I just started a belle saison quick mead last night to compare to the cote des blanc batch that I finished. Haven't had a chance to empty all my 1 gallons yet but as soon as they are empty i've got 1388 ordered and about 5 dry yeasts coming to compare them all.
 
does the 1.5L starter plus honey give you 2L of starter or is it just honey and nutrient?
 
kenoglass said:
does the 1.5L starter plus honey give you 2L of starter or is it just honey and nutrient?
Click to expand...


I've been getting a lot of questions about the starter, so I've updated the protocol with more detail. See below:

2 Liter Starter for 5 gallons of BOMM

1. Sanitize 2 liter flask with cross shaped stir bar.
>To sanitize, use StarSan, OneStep, or cook it on the stove burner (let it cool before Step 2). I avoid iodine based cleaner due to staining.
2. Add 1 tsp GoFerm.
3. Add 1/2 cup honey (6 oz by weight).
4. Add sterile spring water to 1.8 liters.
5. Pitch smacked pack of yeast or rehydrated yeast
>Final volume close to 2 liters with smack pack volume added.
>I generally do break the internal packet for the nutrients, but you don't have to wait to pitch.
6. Allow to stir on stir plate for 3 days.
>Stir plate is best, but if you don't have one, just swirl it when you can and go an extra day.
7. Pitch in your mead. Don't forget that the starter will add 2 liters of volume!

For larger batches (>10 gallons), I just make a 1/10 volume BOMM and pitch after the gravity reaches the 3rd sugar break.
>Example: A 50 gallon batch would require a 5 gallon BOMM as a starter.


Better brewing through science!

See my brewing site at www.denardbrewing.com

See my Current Mead Making Techniques article here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/current-mead-making-techniques.html
 
I'm so frustrated as I can't seem to find the right nutrients at any of my LHBS.


One shop carries calcium BIcarbonate, but reading other posts that doesnt work.

I also can't find Fermaid K, just Fermax (which I assume is similar?).

I can source DAP quite easily, as both shops I checked have it.


I'm trying to respect the OP's original recipe as I figure I will be able to have reproducible results in terms of a high quality product, but wondering if these slight substitutions will work (or not?)
 

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