I have very limited wood working skills and was wondering what type of saw you used to mitre the 1x8 collar (it is a 1x8 right?)? Also, where did you get the drip tray? I have seen similar ones at Beverage Factory and Keg Connection, but want to see if there is a better solution out there.
Could you post those websites, please? I'd like to put some of those on my taps.
Where did you order from? Sears?
I'm in the market.
Okay so I'm a total beginner when it comes to wiring and wanted to clarify how you did this. It looks like you've got the controller wired to the outlet in the back of the collar, which is then wired to the main power source (ie the plug that goes in the wall?). Do you then plug the freezer into the outlet installed on the collar? Also, did you just use the "plug" end of the extension cord you used to wire the controller to the outlet as the plug for the wall?
Do you do anything with the freezers standard temp control or just leave it on high and let the love controller kick it on when needed?
I'm about to embark on this same project and wanted to make sure I'm clear before ordering parts. Thanks for any input you can give!
Josh
I may not have read the thread properly, but did you actually attach the entire drip tray with magnets?
If so, will it actually hold a full pint glass on the tray?
Okay so I'm a total beginner when it comes to wiring and wanted to clarify how you did this. It looks like you've got the controller wired to the outlet in the back of the collar, which is then wired to the main power source (ie the plug that goes in the wall?). Do you then plug the freezer into the outlet installed on the collar? Also, did you just use the "plug" end of the extension cord you used to wire the controller to the outlet as the plug for the wall?
Do you do anything with the freezers standard temp control or just leave it on high and let the love controller kick it on when needed?
I'm about to embark on this same project and wanted to make sure I'm clear before ordering parts. Thanks for any input you can give!
Josh
I may not have read the thread properly, but did you actually attach the entire drip tray with magnets?
If so, will it actually hold a full pint glass on the tray?
very nice! the extra hinges are a great idea, Just have to find them for mine now
I love this build. Props! What happened to the tap marker? And those killer handles?
I ordered mine directly through the Sears parts website.
The hinges are replacement stock from Sears. The lid can be lifted alone and the collar and lid can be lifted together. The hinges don't even seem to notice the extra weight.
Not OP, but I did the same some double configuration. It's very useful to be able to lift the collar and all when lifting a full keg in so you don't have to lift the 50 pounds that high, and helps for fishing it down through all the lines. But then for just reaching in and adjusting something, swapping a disconnect or just checking to make sure beer isn't leaking out of someplace, it's nice to just be able to open the freezer lid. You don't have to pull it away from the wall nearly as far and it isn't nearly as heavy, etc.
The hinges are pretty strong at holding the lid in the closed position so I don't really have a problem with the top lid flopping open when opening the bottom. Mine also ends up resting against some shelving above it though, so it may be more of an issue if it were a wide open area.
Ok, that makes sense.
My engineering background says; more moving parts, more points of failure. I assume OP offset his taps over to one side in order to help keep lines out of the way when working inside the keezer. Even with that, you think it is still beneficial to have the double hinge set-up?
My collar ended up being either 10 or 12" high, so it has definitely been handy and I'm glad I have the second set.
I'd definitely suggest not permanently fixing a large collar to the base though. There will be inevitable spills that require a good cleaning of the inside periodically, and trying to reach the bottom over the collar would be quite difficult without climbing in the thing entirely. I've sponged a couple gallons of beer that leaked out before, which sucks enough as-is.
However, having said that, when I ordered my hinges I ended up getting them both for around $20 total. When a friend was doing the same last year it cost him more like $45/EACH which would make me question the importance of using OEM replacement ones, at least. The stock hinges are truly beasts, which don't notice the weight of a collar at all. But it sure seems like you could use a cheaper home improvement store hinge for the top part of the lid (it's not that heavy). It may require clasps to hold it down when opening the bottom, but if I were trying to save money I'd keep the originals for the collar to base, and try for a cheaper solution for the top.
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