Biab no-chill IPA hop specific questions

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chask31

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I have recently been brewing 2.5 gallon batches on the stove using the biab no-chill method. I pitch when I get my wort down to the desired temp (usually about 1.5 days after brewing.

I am planning to make my first IPA using this method and was wondering how long I should leave my hops in the kettle after flameout. I have 60, 20 and flameout hop additions. Any insight would be great.
 
Yes I don't doubt it takes more than a day to get down below 70F without any chilling. I tried it once and gave up waiting...

Flameout hops stay in just like any other additions, unless you are using a hop spider or something. If you are, I'd pull all the hops after about 30 min, since that's typically when you'd be below 100F at least. Not sure it would matter much though...
 
I am planning to make my first IPA using this method and was wondering how long I should leave my hops in the kettle after flameout.

Maybe steep for 15 - 45 minutes, sure would not leave them in for 1.5 days..
 
1.5 days after what now? that's not after the boil is it?

Yes, that is after flameout. I usually brew in the morning and finish around noon. By the time I wake up the next morning, the wort is cool enough to place in my Cool Brewing insulated bag and at that point I can drop the temp pretty quickly with numerous ice packs.

My wife and I had our daughter in 2014. It had been about 2 years since I brewed since having a kid eats a lot of time. In April, I decided it was time and I needed to find the quickest, most efficient way to brew. Small batch, no-chill biab was the best solution. I am drinking my 3rd batch and the beer has been great! I haven't noticed any off-flavors and there has been no 'chill haze'. I am beginning to wonder if chill haze is even real. Chilling was honestly the most annoying part of brewing for me so I am glad I was able to eliminate it.
 
Yes I don't doubt it takes more than a day to get down below 70F without any chilling. I tried it once and gave up waiting...

Flameout hops stay in just like any other additions, unless you are using a hop spider or something. If you are, I'd pull all the hops after about 30 min, since that's typically when you'd be below 100F at least. Not sure it would matter much though...

It typically takes about 8 hours for my 5 gallon batch to get down to near 100. I usually finish around 11 at night, wake up the next morning at 8 and it's maybe 100-110F.
 
Cold water in a 50 gal storage container ($15.97) then fill it with a case of frozen water bottles ($1.98) and that would get you under pitch temp in <8hrs. Why take the risk of inoculating some bacteria or brettanomyces, cause that can happen in 36 hrs... normal lag time for yeast is anywhere from 3-15 hrs. So you could have a wild fermentation starting in that 36 hrs window. It is best to get yeast in there as reasonably as possible. But account for a slight increase of IBUs. Most calculators have an option for no chill, and unless you have a chiller you should be using them. Even if you are a 1 gal, stovetop, and swamp cooler/sink chill method you should use the "no chill" bitterness calcs to account for possible added bitterness. That is unless 1.)you fart rainbows and s**t sorbet 2.)Could care less how bitter the brew is 3.)Like my wife, never listens to advice from a guy that once naired his beard to win a crisp $20
 
Jeffers, I think I will wait until I learn this lesson the hard way, much like I am sure you did with the nair. I know the risks but my house is 152 years old and id rather contaminate a batch than have my kitchen floor end up in my cellar.

Sketchy; thanks for the link, I will definitely read it this weekend.
 
What I've been doing with my IPA's is a FWH, 30 minute whirlpool and dry hop. I would skip the 20 minute and save those for dry hopping.
 
If you add hops at 60 it's going to be equivalent to 80-90 mins with "normal" chilling.

Using biab/no-chill myself I add my 1st addition at 20 mins and any late additions in the jerrycan directly. For 0min/whirlpool additions I just add the hops 10mins before the yeast on the next day a shake good. Dry hop for 2 days and you've got a very hoppy ipa
 
Late hops can be added to the cube or kettle when temps are 160-180, hops isomerize less at these lower temps and will add more flavor and aroma than is added at higher temps. This is like doing a hop stand or whirlpool.

Move late are flame out additions to cube or kettle once the wort has cooled a bit, I add at approx 160.

Fwiw I let chill, or "no chill" in my kettle with the lid on and don't bother with a cube if pitching healthy yeast within say 24 hours...ymmv
 
What I've been doing with my IPA's is a FWH, 30 minute whirlpool and dry hop. I would skip the 20 minute and save those for dry hopping.

How do you do a FWH with BIAB? Just add them as you remove your bag?
 
Late hops can be added to the cube or kettle when temps are 160-180, hops isomerize less at these lower temps and will add more flavor and aroma than is added at higher temps. This is like doing a hop stand or whirlpool.

Move late are flame out additions to cube or kettle once the wort has cooled a bit, I add at approx 160.

Fwiw I let chill, or "no chill" in my kettle with the lid on and don't bother with a cube if pitching healthy yeast within say 24 hours...ymmv

Have you had any infections yet? This is what I've been doing - chilling overnight with the lid on and pitching the next morning or afternoon. No infections so far in 2 batches.
 
How do you do a FWH with BIAB? Just add them as you remove your bag?

Yep, more or less.Remove the bag of grains, dump the FWH additions, fire up the kettle to bring the wort to boil.



To the OP, I think for 2.5 gallons, I would use the sink for my chilling. Get one of those gardenhose/sink outlet adapters and a cheap 25' immersion chiller. That chiller should cool the beer down very quickly in a 5 gallon kettle. I don't use a chiller for my one gallon batches and those beer have chilled quickly with just a sink bath. I think an immersion chiller would be just as fast or faster for 2.5-3 gallon batches.
 
Yesfan, then I wouldn't be no-chilling. I built an immersion chiller years ago. I'd like to leave it in the closet as chilling is my least favorite part of brewing.

I'm planning to try some of the above suggestions and will post a schedule once I decide. Thanks to all the contributors!
 
Yesfan, then I wouldn't be no-chilling. I built an immersion chiller years ago. I'd like to leave it in the closet as chilling is my least favorite part of brewing.


I also own an IC but choose to no chill cause it is so darn easy :)

Even with the best chiller, my summer ground water temps would require a pre chiller, or the use of ice and a pump etc etc. and honestly I can't be bothered with all that hog wash.

I no chill in the kettle down to a hundred or so, then sanitize 4 frozen 2 liter soda bottles and add them to the kettle to reach pitching temps. Very easy, very little labor.

No infections, been doin this a long time.
 
..............I no chill in the kettle down to a hundred or so, then sanitize 4 frozen 2 liter soda bottles and add them to the kettle to reach pitching temps. Very easy, very little labor.

No infections, been doin this a long time.


Do you just leave the bottles in the kettle overnight, then pitch the yeast the next day?


I don't mind using a IC. I love mine. I just hose it off when I'm done. The summer is a bit more challenging since the ground water is obviously warmer, but the frozen coke bottle idea seems like a good one to try.
 
Best investment I every made was a small used freezer chest for fermentation. No chilling overnight before racking to a fermenter to get to pitching temps is very easy, though I still prefer to use my IC to get down below 100f and into the fermentation chamber before going to bed. Just impatient I guess...
 
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