100' of 5/16" diameter line holds .5 gallon of beer. I use foam detectors (FOBs) at the kegs to shut down the line when the keg is spent. Tap another keg and no loss of beer.I wonder how much beer is in 100 foot of beer line seem to me when a keg would be cashed there would still be several beers intransit
Typically nice (stainless steel) ones sell for $100-$120ea. However Perlick makes a 'smart' coupler with a built in FOB for around $65. They are the only maker of an integrated coupler/FOB. I was reluctant at first given the big cost difference had I purchased separte FOBs but considering it's a savings of $420 for the six lines I gave it a go. They do the job.Some questions for you rvklein as I'm embarking on a similar project:
- Can you tell us more about the foam detectors? What make/model? What do they typically cost?
When the compressor is running (and it runs often), LOUD. Go with a smaller compressor if you don't need more than 150' of trunk line. 3/4 hp also requires a 20AMP circuit. If I can pick up a smaller unit cheap in the future I will.- How loud is the 3/4 hp glycol chiller? (I don't want to hear it from my home theater).
When planning out the remote draw system I was kicking myself for not having more direct draw capacity at the bar. But now that everything is up and running I'd say it was a fortuitous oversight. Large direct draw units are loud and produce alot of heat. Not something you want in an entertainment area.- It's obvious you really did your homework. That said, were there any other lessons learned that weren't obvious until you got into building or using phase of this bar? Things that in retrospect would have made you change something earlier on?
Kal
These look like Sanke couplers only right?. I could have sworn from previous pictures that you also served from corny kegs no?Typically nice (stainless steel) ones sell for $100-$120ea. However Perlick makes a 'smart' coupler with a built in FOB for around $65. They are the only maker of an integrated coupler/FOB. I was reluctant at first given the big cost difference had I purchased separte FOBs but considering it's a savings of $420 for the six lines I gave it a go. They do the job.
Good to know. If I need one at all it'll likely be a 1/3 HP unit.When the compressor is running (and it runs often), LOUD. Go with a smaller compressor if you don't need more than 150' of trunk line. 3/4 hp also requires a 20AMP circuit. If I can pick up a smaller unit cheap in the future I will.
Sorry, the terminology is new to me: What do you mean by 'direct draw' systems? You mean like a kegorator or table like this?:When planning out the remote draw system I was kicking myself for not having more direct draw capacity at the bar. But now that everything is up and running I'd say it was a fortuitous oversight. Large direct draw units are loud and produce alot of heat. Not something you want in an entertainment area.
You can never have enough taps. I had 4 before and will be aiming for 6-8 on the new setup.Right now I don't think I'd change a thing. (other than more taps which my wife quickly shot down)
Ah, yeah sorry. For corny's you'll need sparate FOBsThese look like Sanke couplers only right?. I could have sworn from previous pictures that you also served from corny kegs no?
Yeah. Direct Draw meaning the tap & refrigeration are all-in-one vs Long Draw where they are separate.Sorry, the terminology is new to me: What do you mean by 'direct draw' systems? You mean like a kegorator or table like this?:
I'm not sure what size compressor the Kitchen Aid's use but commonly your commercial direct draw units start with 1/4 hp compressors vs 1/20-1/8hp for small refrigerators. A friend of mine has a large Beverage Air kegerator and it produces alot of heat/noise relative to my Kitchen Aid's which are virtually silent.And by loud and hot you mean the general noise and heat that a fridge produces? Why would it be any louder than (say) the two wine cooler/fridges you have in the bar now?
That's what I told her!!!You can never have enough taps. I had 4 before and will be aiming for 6-8 on the new setup.
Kal
Both. Preblended "Beer Gas" is typically a single blend more suited to stouts then Ales/Lagers which need a 60/40 CO2/NO blend to maintain proper carbonation levels. Unfortunately the only game in town for onsite blending is McDantim. Everyone else rebrands them. A dual blender will run you $1000 but if your patient you can score one on ebay for $300. They are purely mechanical so I wouldn't be too worried about buying a used one.One more question:
If the distance is too long like yours I understand that you need to push with beer gas (pre-blended C02 / Nitrogen) or pure Nitrogen. Reason being that the serving pressure has to be set high to push the long distance, and if it's C02 it may be set so high as to over-carb the beer over time.
You're blending it yourself you mentioned. Are you doing this because you want two different blends as you said (depending on style) or because it's cheaper to blend yourself than buy it pre-blended? Or both?
Kal
So you don't use FOBs on your corny's? Why only on the Sanke's?Ah, yeah sorry. For corny's you'll need sparate FOBs
Gotcha. Make sense.A friend of mine has a large Beverage Air kegerator and it produces alot of heat/noise relative to my Kitchen Aid's which are virtually silent.
The trick is like a tap tower that only starts at 8 taps. These the sorts of styles that I like:That's what I told her!!!
Both. Preblended "Beer Gas" is typically a single blend more suited to stouts then Ales/Lagers which need a 60/40 CO2/NO blend to maintain proper carbonation levels. Unfortunately the only game in town for onsite blending is McDantim. Everyone else rebrands them. A dual blender will run you $1000 but if your patient you can score one on ebay for $300. They are purely mechanical so I wouldn't be too worried about buying a used one.
I only use sanke's. Once I finish the brewery I plan on kegging in sanke's too. We'll see how that goes.So you don't use FOBs on your corny's? Why only on the Sanke's?
Now see, there is a smart man I plan on making a keezer I can roll out for big events. But I really have to finish that brewery first!The trick is like a tap tower that only starts at 8 taps. These the sorts of styles that I like:
Oh geez, there you go getting me thinking....I'm already blaming you for the electric brewery...Did you ever consider an glass rinser? I'm considering at installing the tower on top of a drip tray with integrated glass rinser like this:
No problems running between 20-25 psi. I have one IPA which gets 'flat' @ 20 psi. I run the stout @ 35+ psiAs high as 60% C02 there's no issue with overcarb'ing the beer even with your 100 foot lines? 60% seems high. I wonder at what point it would start being an issue for you with your 5/16" ID lines.
My work here is done...Oh geez, there you go getting me thinking....I'm already blaming you for the electric brewery...
NewBrewB said:Flight boarding. Ran out of time at page 13 but I had to subscribe so I can get back to this later.
Amazing
Pretty nice layout. The bar is a beauty! We have a theater in our basement also (26ft x 16ft) with two tiers of curved reclining HT seats (4 seats per tier). A 110" 16:9 screen and projector. I have two cylinder subs that I built with 2000 WPC each and then the rest of the audio gear. My original plan was to add a wine bar in the back of the theater, but that just never happened. The subs would probably shake most of the glassware off the wine shelves anyway. In February, I'm going to take out a wall in the adjoining room to make it larger and we are thinking about adding a small bar...nothing like yours though. I'd love to have a couple of taps and my wine bar though.
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