Any issues: using a turkey fryer

[Manny_E]

I have a stainless steel turkey fryer that i am planning to use a Brew Pot. I am planning to installs a Brewer's Edge Kettlevalve 3/8".

Question:

after i mod this fryer, can i still use it as fryer? I am concern w/ high temp and Kettle valve...

 

[Johnnyhitch1]

weldless valve i would say no if you have a 1/2 female port welded on your kettle you can remove the valve and install a plug when frying
just an idea...

 

[Golddiggie]

Use the high temp rated silicone o-rings and/or washers and you'll be fine. I would also use a 1/2" valve (and all fittings 1/2" NPT) for anything brewing related.

No need to go and get a fitting welded, since you can use the weldless kits/fittings just fine.

 

[Manny_E]

where I can find a high temp o-ring?

 

[Golddiggie]

where I can find a high temp o-ring?

Bargain Fittings, for one. McMaster-Carr has them too (cheap money, but you don't buy just one).

 

[Stauffbier]

If it was me I wouldn't want to fry in a kettle with a weldless valve or go back and forth from oil to wort. I would recommend buying an extra, cheap aluminum turkey kettle for frying in. Just my personal preference.

 

[Golddiggie]

I wouldn't do it either, but it's possible to do it if he's REALLY in a bind. The bigger issue will be removing all traces of the frying oil from the kettle before using it to brew again. A good PBW solutions soak should take care of that. But it could also be a lot more effort than it's worth.

 

[Stauffbier]

I know the silicon O rings are rated for the heat, but they will take some wear and tear at those temps when oil is envolved. Plus I would think you would have to disassemble the valve and clean the entire assembly really well after using oil, which would be a pain! It can be done, but that doesn't always mean you should. Another cheap turkey kettle really wouldn't cost that much. I still have one that I do use as a HLT, but I never installed valves on it. I would indeed use it to fry a turkey in and then clean it really good with PBW like you mentioned..

 

[TrubDog]

You don't need a valve - they are a pain in the butt. Boil your wort, cool it (I use a 50 ft IC) and pour it thru a dual mesh strainer into your bucket. I was using a 6.5 gal glass carboy for 2 years and now use an 8 gal bucket. It gets strained, lots of O2 and it's ready to go in about two minutes.

 

[TimpanogosSlim]

You don't need a valve - they are a pain in the butt. Boil your wort, cool it (I use a 50 ft IC) and pour it thru a dual mesh strainer into your bucket. I was using a 6.5 gal glass carboy for 2 years and now use an 8 gal bucket. It gets strained, lots of O2 and it's ready to go in about two minutes.

I hated pouring more than i can describe. Installing valves made brew day much easier here.

 

[Stauffbier]

Some people might not be as able or willing to pick up a kettle with 5-6 gallons of wort and dump it in to a fermenter. Valves are nice, to say the least... Although, if you don't have a valve and don't want to dump a kettle you could just siphon in to the fermenter. That's what I used to do before I installed my ball valve.

 

[Golddiggie]

A ball valve also opens up your choices for wort chillers. With one you can use either a CFC or Plate Chiller with ease. Without one, you're going to struggle to use either, at best.

Also, pouring the wort into the bucket only gets it a small amount of oxygenation. You'll max out at 8ppm with using atmospheric O2 concentrations, no matter what you do. If you want to have more control over the O2 infusion, you'll need to get a pure O2 setup. You have options there (there are plenty of threads going over them).

Personally, I put 6-3/4 to 7 gallons into each fermenter (converted sanke kegs). Pouring really isn't a good option, especially from a keggle. Plus, I use a plate chiller to get my wort to pitching temps FAST.