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I just got a new regulator in the mail and cannot get it to hold a steady pressure. Not the normal problem of pressure dropping due to a leak though, the pressure creeps higher over time. With the regulator I currently use if I have it dialed back as far as possible and open the tank my gauge...

Awesome thanks!

That's a good idea! Hadn't thought about that. The new primary regulator is cheaper than buying a secondary though, so I'm still wondering if I can pull off the tank connector and add a barbed connector in its place?

I've got an older tap-rite primary regulator with single gauge (no high pressure that shows tank level). I'm setting up a keezer and want to pick up a new primary with both gauges so that I don't wind up running out of gas at inopportune times. Wondering if I can disconnect the tank connection...

Looking at the neck of the carboy and the airlock it looks like you had some yeast activity going on before the break.

I've got a bucket that showed itself to have a tempermental seal. Beers would ferment out in it and never bubble. It's now my starsan bucket. Bubbles aren't proof of fermentation, the hydrometer is.

I've used them at the back of IPA's. Found them to be quite clean as a bittering hop. I haven't used them late in the boil so I can't really speak to flavor and aroma with them.

Your airlock activity may also just be the beer offgassing any number of compounds. Definitely worth checking the gravity even if you see airlock activity.

The saison I brewed with Fantome dregs was more sour than the hiver I pulled the dregs from, and still had a lot of good brett character. That is my only experience with the strain. I saved some dregs from a Fantome chokolat this year that now has a crazy white fan growth going on in the jar...

I keep the beer chilled in a fridge, but I don't have the CO2 running into the fridge yet so I hit it with 12 psi every morning from a CO2 tank.

So I've kegged a few batches and noticed the same thing occuring that I haven't read about anywhere, though it may be my system. I have a kegs in a fridge dispensing through party taps, only hooked up when dispensing. I connect CO2 once a day and fill to 12psi. During the first week or so...

10 Gallons of Pilsner 2709

I put together an order last night for some keg fittings I needed and some hops. I also wanted to add a few feet of silicone tubing to the order. I couldn't figure out why my shipping kept going from $5 without the tubing to a fed ex price with the tubing, but the change essentially doubled...

I've got it going on two beers now, but I've kept fermentation at 55F the entire time for both brews so I can't really help with your specific question. Hope it turns out ok.

10 gallons of Irish Red YTD 231.5 gallons

The stand is a separate option for $65, seems most people build their own.

Thanks, I was wondering if there was a guide like 80% of FG out there. That's good to know. By my calc's hoping for 70% attenuation I'm at around 75% of FG. I'll give it some more time. Notoriously slow yeast I guess. I'll let it do it's thing.

I've got 10 gallons of black lager that's been in primary since 11/27. I used WLP820 which a bit of research suggests is a slow fermenter. The airlock is still bubbling once every 10 seconds so I'm not worried about the current gravity, I figure it will come down. It has been at a near...

I'm going to brew this one up using a wlp820 cake that will be ready next week. What do you think about substituting the melanoidin for the crystal 120? I can get crystal 120 but I've got melanoidin on hand, and I know it will give plenty of red to the finished product.

I ferment in my basement, ales in the summer at 65F and lagers in the winter at 50F. I don't try to fight it, I just plan accordingly. That said I can bring beers upstairs in the winter for a little warmer temp if I want it (same goes for summer I guess), and I just put together a fermentation...