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Grinder posted his recipe --- I'm a little leery of the peat ..... but how about some recipe posts on other Mild Ales

Not sure what brand you have - my Brewcraft plastic primary has been thru 3 batches of amber - dark brown ale - and Blonde Ale and is still white ...

Oh yeah --- I used to love me a good IPA back in 1998 - 2000 or so, but the the taste buds have made a retreat from hoppy-land. And the growing hopitization of all brews (esp American origin) is a clear and present danger for those of us who go for a more balanced or milder brew. And a...

Good feed back ---- I think the quote above would speak to most "issues" folks might have - yeast age - acceptable SG range of your brew - and probably add temperature and you have a lot of variables that new or careless brewers might encounter

I'm a keep it simple guy and have been brewing my first batches with dry yeast. Now attempting some clones and they call for liquid yeast -- yes I can get a close match with a dry --- but I'm considering trying a liquid. One of our local brew shops sells Wyeast Activator "smack-paks" but...

You mentioned LME in your post --- recipe has DME. Are you converting it to DME or going LME. Just curious After your grains are done soaking -- pull them out and give them a good squeeze with some tongs to get all the good stuff out. Crank the heat to get to a good boil going...

No need to cry over split beer --- at this point you've still got beer and its gonna continue to ferment a bit and continue to settle out. You can go 2 or 3 weeks in secondary. Take a reading at 2 week point -- but mainly leave it alone. I tend to cover my carboy to reduce and light (sunlight)...

Your SG is ok - its at the high end for a Blonde ale. You normally want to toss the yeast at 75 deg or lower -- but seems you're fermenting ok. I always rack to a secondary when the fermentation levels off after a few days (but this varies from each recipe) -- your best bet is to spend...

Parting thought from a science point of view --- seem to recall doing several labs in college measuring dissolved oxygen in water --- at high temperatures a liquids ability to absorb and hold oxygen is reduced quite a bit. So if you're going to do any shaking or sloshing its best to do it after...

Process we use is simple --- assuming you've racked into a secondary --- put carboy up on counter and get the priming mix boiling. Sanitize everything --- start siphon to the clean bucket --- at about 1/4 full dump in the priming sugar and keep the siphon going. Everything will be mixed when the...

Local brew shop guy is a science and chemistry type dude ... his take is all the shaking - pouring - etc will gain you at most an increase of 8ppm oxygen as most of our atmosphere is nitrogen. Only way to really increase oxygen is with a pure oxygen and a stone. To each his own .....:rockin:

for what its worth - I'm doing a fat tire clone from the recent copy of BYO which has a 150 clone recipes in it --- they also are using a liquid yeast White Labs WLP051. Talked with the brew shop and he's recommending Danstar Windsor - you might try that. I got into brewing this last...

A Buzz:drunk:

-soak bottles in favorite solution -drink 3 - 4 beers -crank up ipod - insert ear buds - cue up some rock or blues -open another beer and use a plastic kitchen scraper -keep breakage to a minimum:ban:

Yeah - beats me too :drunk: I've got 3 books from current and classic authors and beyond the basics none of them agree on process(es) - shaking - pouring back and forth - don't touch it - wait 1 week - wait 2 weeks - watch the bubbles - 68 deg - 70 deg ........ Hell --- there is a whole...

Yes I have another question --- however this time I have actually read parts of the book so this may be more coherent. Again my topic of choice is converting Jamil's and Palmer's full boil recipes to your basic 3 gallon boil. On pages 35-38 they very clearly discuss this conversion process...

On re-reading your post my biggest comment would be not to get too consumed on the "numbers" or hitting a specific target on the first - second - or even third batch. IMHO your first goal is to just brew some beer that is a beer-like substance and hopefully even tasty. Work on process - note...

Well thats good because thats what you have is flat beer until you bottle and carbonate it. Let it sit in the secondary (covered or in the dark) for 2 weeks or so. Since you added water late in the process (which could contaminate) you might check it every few days for any freaky growths on the...

I'm only on batch #2 (in the secondary fermenter) and planning batch #3 --- so I'm still sorting on the **** and the shinola. However my first batch actually came out pretty good. The brew shop I go to has a pretty simple process and some good theory. One area on Primary fermentation is...

I'm sure everyone's taste in "whats good" varies wildly. Our first batch of Alaskan Amber just hit 3 weeks in the bottle at around 70 degrees. We sampled a bottle at 2 weeks and I was happy but also really bummed out. Happy in that we brewed beer ! Bummed that it was pretty "sharp...