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For 5 gal I wouldn't go smaller than 3/8'' tubing. If your batch size is 3 gal or smaller you could get away with 1/4''. And just so you know if you calculate the surface areas based on manufacturers tubing OD you will get the following numbers:1/4'' = 14.35 square inches/foot, 3/8'' = 19.1...

About $31. A $14 kit vs. a $45 reg, no reason to spend the extra money if it can be fixed.

I can't find a rebuild kit for a Draught Tech regulator, does anyone know if a micromatic rebuild kit will work for it? The outer housing of the base model looks very similar. It got liquid CO2 in it so all of the seals are now bad including the pressure relief valve.

For your future planning, at least on my system, I average about 75% overall eff for partigyle batches. I plan my first running at about 50% and my second running at about 25%. When I split the wort 50/50 between the batches. Its good to toss in more roasted or caramalts for the second beer, if...

I've never gotten three cornie kegs, 2 is about right. I also under fill mine a little for a safety margin, I've had the burst disk rupture in the past if they get too warm. If you carry an extra your guaranteed to have enough gas.

You could add metabisulfate or cambden tabs to kill the infection and reinoculate for bottling once they dissipate. I've never done this but it seems like it should work.

I've used those tables before, on the 50/50 split, my system worked a bit differently. I got about 50% in the first run and 25% for the second beer. I now work up my partigyles in this fashion and get pretty close. They are good approximations, but those efficiencies depend more on you. Also...

Whenever I've done high gravity, I always add more yeast at bottling. I sanitize a SST turkey baster and put a little reconstituted dry yeast in each bottle. That way I know the yeast wont be the weak link in a beer that takes that long to produce. Its good piece of mind for about $3 in yeast...

Also, don't forget your yeast. Depending on your planned gravity your alc% can outpace your yeast and wind up with an under-attenuated beer. So pick something with the character you want which will survive till the end. For instance S-04 runs out of steam right around 10%.

The most I've gotten was 26lbs @ 1qt/lbs wo/a false bottom, I use a braid. Stir gently.

The only thing that comes to mind is a grain mill. Some higher end grain mills can be used for smaller scale pro brewing. Nola Brewing was using a Shmelding Malt Mill that was from a brewshop that went out of business 5 years ago. I think all they did was replace the rollers recently.

Step bit or Unibit. It will make a perfect hole every time and size it exactly. Just don't go too far or your hole will be bigger than desired. I've watched many people ruin a brand new bucket with a paddle bit.

I'll give it a shot.

I've had good luck with Star-San, make it double strength. Let it soak for a bit and pull them out and scrubby it off, if you just rinse it after with water some of the silk screen will get stuck again. Gloves are good to use for this BTW.

From what I can tell you've mixed up your math in a few places. My assumption for my math is that the only gravity readings you took were your first and second runnings. That would make a total combined gravity of [email protected] with total gravity points of 712. If you took gravity readings at...

Its a necessity if you do large partigyles, I get an additional 1.5 gal or so out of my 150qt cooler.

In my brews I've generally used about 8oz of coco powder per 5 gal. I've never used bakers chocolate or nibs in a beer. In order to keep it from clumping up treat it like corn starch, pull some wort from the kettle and whisk it in, otherwise it will get clumpy and fall out at cooling. Also...

Fill the lid with spray foam.

To answer the question those tables take into account anticipated preboil gravities. Even then those are estimations. If you want to hit your gravities exactly keep some DME and water on hand to adjust accordingly.

When I made my last Braggot, I added 6 lbs of honey to the 1.030 beer at the start of fermentation and stirred it in with my mix-stir and a drill. Then 2 days later 12lbs of honey the same way. If your adding a lot of honey, your beer is going to want more O2 to finish the ferment, along with...